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I'm on the wrong side of the pond....so this is of little help to you.
http://www.b-quiet.com/ultimate.html
http://www.dynamat.com/products_automotive...mat_xtreme.html
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The Butyl based sound deadeners perform better and don't have these problems.
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I would try the RKB101111 as I suspect that will work well for you if you are light. Normally you should be in the soft part of the spring and only move to the heavy part with loaded up.
Next choice would be the Old Man Emu 752 as it is lighter and taller than stock. But try the genuine ones first as they should be cheap...
Last choice would be the self levelling ones with airlift bags, which is probably what I would do, but that is not for everyone.
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Not really....
It depends.......
Later model 24 spline stock shafts are made of very weak materials. So it ends up that STOCK, LATER MODEL 24 spline shafts are no stronger than stock 10 spline shafts..... http://217.34.53.228:9876/uploads/BILLING%...ONT%20GRAPH.pdf
Now....... Salisbury 24 spline shafts and the Rover "HD" 24 spline shafts are much stronger. It is quite important to understand which particular shafts are being discussed.
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My error, refilled with MTF94, not MTF75
.I used Castrol EPX 75w/80 last time, which I understand is the same viscosity as MTF94 (and considerably thinner than 75/90 or EP90 as has been suggested).
I was nearly sure they were the same viscosity, anyone know an online source where I can compare specifications?But even with the wrong oil in, why would it come out black?
It wasn't paint flakes in it, it came out like used engine oil
Sorry, I thought you had written 75W90. EPX 75W/80 is the correct viscosity. They do have the problem of using sulfur additives, which can corrode the copper alloys in the synchros.
http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_inter...X_Gear_Oils.pdf
The Castrol EPX Gear Oils contain sulphur-phosphorus extremepressure additives which enable them to withstand high rubbing
speeds and tooth pressures. These additives are activated by high
localised temperatures on the gear tooth surface, and chemically react
with the metal to form materials (metallic sulphides and phosphides) of
low shear strength between the rubbing surfaces.
This may be what has caused the discoloration or it may have been overheated. The poor shifting is probably due to it being too slippery at low speeds for the synchros. MTFs have friction modifiers that increase low speed friction.
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I wouldn't. Seems like extra work for no purpose.
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There is a huge difference between 75/80 and MTF94. Not sure what is MTF75?
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I used a 50 lbs fishing scale on the end of a 5 ft scaffold pole, so 50 x 5 = 250 lbft
Hopefully not for setting the belt tension!!!
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Of course!..... Homor moment! Been too long since I did one with string!
Yeah?
Go on, elaborate....
If you have luggy tires, simply measure the outside of the lugs from and back. If not, stick a pin in the treads at the back. Measure the distance between the pins, roll the truck forward so the pins are on the front. Measure again. The front should be the same or slightly wider than the rear measurement.
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It is toe out because the wheel are driven. The driving force makes them straight under power.
You simply measure the tyres on the front and back to set the toe. It is very simple.
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Personally, I would go digital. Small changes in voltage tell you a lot about battery condition and charging. I just have a switch to read voltage from each battery.
http://www.casporttouring.com/store/mercha...ode=Electronics
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The oil on the plugs IS just diesel. In the combustion chamber, it gets modified a little bit...... It is not engine oil. That is what dead glow plugs look like.
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FYI, this is the manufacturer. http://www.wiberg-wiberg.com/vis.asp?gid=88
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The understanding is that those genuine parts are no longer available.
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All shocks have gas in them. Some are pressurized. The pressurizing helps prevent the oil from gasing off when it get really hot.
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This is why I got a VDO. $75 and I can program it with whatever tyres I run. Calibrated to within 0.1%.
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Every Defender I've been in read quite high on the speedo and larger tyres makes it more accurate.
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First check the gearbox suffix.
If you use an LT77, you want a "G" or "H" suffix. If you get the earlier versions, expect it to die within a few years.
http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/part_1.html
The LT 77 was introduced to the Landrover range in approx 1983 with the suffix D box and was developed over the years to the suffix H which was last used in 1994.The D and E are very similar the only difference being the reverse gear was a little fatter in the E,
When they went from E to F larger layshaft bearings were used.
The G was further improved by all the gear teeth including the pinion getting approx 20% thicker. Also a much wider pump was used to increase the lubrication and cope with the fact that some of the LT 77"s were now being supplied oil cooled, ie V8 NAS 90, 3.9 RR Classic and the 3.5 EFI Discos.
The H (termed the LT 77S) was the same as the G in terms of strength but used a different syncro set up called the "Double Syncro", In reality it didn"t work much better.
Also make sure the t. case is 1.4:1. 1.6:1 is not preferred for a TDI.
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Yah, 11.5 is fine for starting.
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I use 700 C (pre-turbo) as the alarm point.
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Pick up a Southdown wing piece to handle going through the wing. They sell them for 12.50, http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/Southdown-4x...s__W0QQ_armrsZ1 Then have a piece of tubing bent to fit.
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I work with thermocouples every day as well and a 3 mm made from the proper sheathing will last forever in this application. The velocities are quite low.
IMO, a 6 mm has a reposnse time that is inadequate for proper peak measurements.
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You do not want an exposed tip as it will burn off over time, IMO.
Those meters work well. The regular 1/4" TC should be fine and are what most people use.
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They should be nice and strong. The pump is the same as the front.
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I was nearly sure they were the same viscosity, anyone know an online source where I can compare specifications?
reverse gear
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Sounds like the clutch is dragging.
As to idle speed, it is not adjusted with the throttle cable.... The cable should be slightly loose.
There is a screw to adjust for the idle speed.