keithjh
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Posts posted by keithjh
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Ive got fed up of the diminishing performance of the brakes on my D1 and want to sort it out.
essentially, I dont know if theres anything wrong with the master cylinder, but Im going to get one of the repair kits anyway. I do think there might be
but Im also aware that theres some issue with seized or semi seized pistons. ive one caliper that seems to eat pads and one that does the opposite. Time to get this sorted. although braking performance isnt diminished as an end result, Im having to use more pedal than I feel I ought.
few questions about the bits im swapping.
flexis will be changed for braided, but do I fit stock length ones, +2s, or can I even fit +4s to a standard height vehicle or will they get in the way of moving parts?
calipers... do I swap the calipers as a whole (pricey) or do I do the seals, pistons, bleed nipples etc and just clean the bodies? parts for all 4 should be about 80 pounds max, calipers would come to over 200.
If i were to swap for new calipers, do I stick with solid front discs? should they be adequate? do i go for vented calipers and discs? certainly not interested in drilled or grooved for this vehicle.
Is there anything ive overlooked or forgotten?
thanks guys. any opinions appreciated. those with experience attached would be fantastic!
thanks
Jim
Have just split the front calipers on my disco and fitted new pistons and seals, a very easy job just make sure you keep everything CLEAN. and fit new o rings between the caliper halves.
If you want vented front discs you will have to replace the calipers as well, i personally would stick with the solid discs and just refurb your calipers.
As for flexis if you have no intention of lifting the vehicle just stick with standard length.
Master cylinder repair, as for calipers just keep everything CLEAN
Regards
Keith
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Keith,
Down in the drivers (assuming right hand drive) footwell near the footrest is a multi-connector that on mine became partially disconected causing the heater blower to not work and the illumination around the gearshift and the heater controls to go out. It took me an age to find out what was wrong but was easy to sort. I don't recall the engine check light coming on but it might have done.
Hope this helps
Pete.
Thanks for that will check it the morning
Keith
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Hi All,
When wife started her Disco 300Tdi Auto (97) this morning the "Check Engine light" stayed on for about 5 minutes, also the wipers would not work, and the light around the auto shift did not illuminate, and the heater blower did not work. Arrived at work switched off. Restarted after a couple of minutes all working fine. Any ideas other than the electrickery gremlin has struck
Keith
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Think paddock do them.Exmoor trim list 2 types, 1 full set around £90. 2nd set about £400!!!!!! My mate got a set for a defender from paddocks & they are really good quality.
Would be interested what you find, as looking myself.
Hi All,
Thanks for all of the answers in the end i made the foolish (read expensive) mistake of allowing her indoors to choose, she chose Melvill & Moon from Trakkers, so am now £225 poorer, i must be bl--dy mad bought LRs for less than that
Keith
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Hi All,
Need some seat covers for the Disco 300 any reccomendations?
Keith
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Britpart stickers are quite reasonable quality....
Probably the only decent thing they make!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Keith
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My dad had this with a collapsed catalyst on a TD5
Check for exhaust obstruction.
Cat removed years ago so its not that-wish it was easy to fix
Keith
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I'd look at the Sedimentor, as James says - They're often forgotten about for years. Don't undo the drain though - drop the whole bowl off by undoing the 11mm nut on top.
When I had Fuel Starvation on mine I got lots of white smoke. That was from a clogged lift pump.
It should easily go over 100mph, but I think it requires kickdown, just wondering if your kickdown system has got messed up?
Does it kickdown for overtaking still? Maybe the cable just needs setting up? Just trying to think of any possibilities
Cleaned out the sedimentor bowl , had some carp in but not much, still no difference any other ideas
Keith
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I'd look at the Sedimentor, as James says - They're often forgotten about for years. Don't undo the drain though - drop the whole bowl off by undoing the 11mm nut on top.
When I had Fuel Starvation on mine I got lots of white smoke. That was from a clogged lift pump.
It should easily go over 100mph, but I think it requires kickdown, just wondering if your kickdown system has got messed up?
Does it kickdown for overtaking still? Maybe the cable just needs setting up? Just trying to think of any possibilities
All filters are new cleaned out sedimenter about 2 years ago, will do it in the morning
Kickdown works fine no problems their
Keith
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Hi All,
Any advice comments on the below greatly appreciated.
Vehicle is a 300 TDi Disco with the dreaded EDC system, anyway its the wifes daily motor i drive it occasionally. Over the last few weeks it had starting problems which have now been sorted out, after fitting new starter and sorting out the earths, it now starts fine. Took it out yeasterday for a longish run no problems until i want to get it past 70mph, it just gets to 72 then will not get any more out of it, used to be fine sit all day at 75-80 on the motorway but not any more.
Anyway a new OEM lift pump fitted and the tank sender renewed this morning as the pipes were pretty bad (thinking pin hole drawing air), no diffrerence,
does not smoke or run rough at tickover so not suspecting injectors.
So whats left other than injector pump, or air flow meter (but how the hell do i test that?)
All suggestions ideas gratefully accepted, as i`m off to Bosnia in Feb and need to get it sorted
Regards
Keith
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Hi, have you got the CHECK ENGINE light on? Does it work????? I had this on one of mine and it was the #4 injector - the 'intelegent' one. Doesn't give the computer the correct timing to start the injection process so goes to default and the truck has no power either.
Also, get one side of your jumper lead and put 1 end on the (-) of the batt and the other end on the block - maybe the lifting eye - you could ahve a bad chassis to engine earth. This would prove it if it starts better.
Check engine light comes on for a few seconds then goes out
tried the extra earth plus cleaning properly the origonal ones no difference
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When its finaly running dose it charge properly, the rason I ask is that mine did the same fine one day and dead the next and it turned out to be that the alternator had gone short inside and was back draining the battery.
Yes it charges at 14.2 volts
The addition of extra earth cable has made no difference
Origonal earths removed cleaned refitted
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Hi All,
Well at last after never having a problem withe the Auto with EDC, it is now a pig to start, so:-
Left overnight or for a few hours it cranks very slowly and will not go, use jump leads and its away no problems, gives the impression of a knackered battery or starter, anyway this is what i have done:-
New Starter (Bosch)
New Battery (Type 069)
New OEM Glow Plugs
Cleaned the earths, one to the starter bolt to chassis, and battery neg to chassis.
anyway left on drive yesterday afternoon went to start this morning, no go.
Any ideas before i put it out of its misery and shoot it?
Regards
Keith
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Am I right to think that the turbo is in the up position on this engine for Defender and lower for the Discovery.
Same place on the 300 Tdi, its the 200Tdi that are different
Keith
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Will they fit a standard Disco 300tdi?
Keith
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Hi All,
while servicing the truck, it was noticed that the discs were getting past their best, so changed all 4 discs new pads etc, also chganged a couple of brale lines that were badly corroded.
The brakes work but are not as good a they were when i used to use it (wife now uses it for work etc). Anyway not losing fluid anywhere, no air in system, stops in a straight line, no pumping, servo appears to be working fine, what have i missed? only thing i can think of is the vacuum unit attached to the engine block
Regards
Keith
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Hi All,
I have a Rapier trailer that has several of the origonal wheel nuts missing, standard nuts in their place, now after trying for the past couple of years to get replacement wheel nuts, i have given up, does anyone know if i can replace the studs with a set from a series or a 110 or anything that i can get wheel nuts for?.
Regards
Keith
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Hi All,
Having just returned from an overland trip to Bosnia, with several other Land Rover Owners, i have some advice never break down in Austria and if you do make sure you have your own spares and spanners.
Anyway one of the vehicles as 300TDI Disco broke down near Villach in Austria, at this point i was in Bosnia 250 miles away, basic problem was expansion tank goosed engine overheated, The AA european breakdown service towed said Disco to Villach Land Rover main agent, this is where the fun started 2 days to get a expansion tank cost nearly £50, fitted tank started truck blowing water out of header tank like a volcano, refused to order a head gasket until stripped, that would be another 2 days and could not strip for 2 days, would not order head set either, finally admitted they dont do repairs only servicing, what sort of main dealer is this i think.
So know only thing left for it i drive back 250 miles strip head off under a street lamp, replace gasket plus head, (only took a spare head with me at last minute) as its warped like a banana and we return to bosnia together quicker than Land Rover Austria could have got the bloody head off, left Bosnia to Austria at 1230 was back in Bosnia in less than 24 hours It would probably have taken them a week to find out the head was warped as i am sure they would have put the head back on, without checking to see if it was warped, and then spent another 2 days thinking about it.
So the moral is do not go to Austria without spares and spanners.
And to cap it all in Bosnia, we needed a Radiator and CV joint, found them on the shelf at a garage but for the pricely sum of Euros 500 0r about £400
So take your spanners and spares if you ever go to that part of the world, as spares they wont have and dont know one end of a spanner from a hammer.
Keith
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hello,
new to the forum, have recently purchased defender 90 td5 (2001). Have heard rumours that theft of them is rife. Best prevention measures: suggestions?
regards
sparg
Pair of dogs that always make a racket when people around and then a .243 with moderator
Keith
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I fully weld too - mostly to prevent rust, but stitching is how they were put on originally.
Les.
I would and do fully weld everything, whether needed or not, helps stop the ingress of water and helps keep the dreaded tin worm away.
Keith
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Hello,
I've just popped over from the defender forum with a slightly odd Disco question.
I'm a Director for a national charity supporting people with learning disabilities.
At one of our services, we have a coffee trailer unit which is run as a social enterprise and has been towed by a ford Galaxy. Unsurprisingly the clutch keeps burning out as the galaxy only has a towing capacity of 2 tons and the trailer unit is 2.3 tons.
I've have been asked to procure either a Freelander, Discovery, Defender or Range Rover to replace the Galaxy (I have responsibility for the companies vehicle fleet). We usually buy new or nearly new but this is a one-off and we need something cheap (£3-4K).
I have suggested a Discovery 300 tdi on the basis that's its the best balance between price, power and economy and RR is too big, Defender too expensive and Freelander too....pants.
Do you agree with my vehicle choice and will I get something half-tidy in this price range??
300TDI Disco Auto, i use one of these to tow 3.5 ton trailers fully loaded across europe to Bosnia twice a year, excellent towing vehicles, and well within your budget.
Reagrds
Keith
Thanks,
simon
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I would recommend Richards Chassis - having personal experience of their stuff.
Les.
Another vote for Richards Chassis, superb workmanship.
Once had a Chassis from another well known supplier and spent the best part of a day redoing some of the welds, they were atrocious.
Regards
Keith
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hi could anyone one tell me what the light on the dash is its the one shaped liki a car with a key in it next ti the batt light !
i thing this is why my disco wont start but i dont have a user manual to look it up in many thanks
mik
Hi
Thats the engine immobilisation light (Red), basically your truck engine is immobilised. Press the unlock button on the remote to disable it. If your battery is dead or almost dead on the remote change it then in should hopefully be okay(if battery dead will not knock o0ff the immobiliser), unless of course you have other issues.
Regards
Keith
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Hi All,
Does anyone know if a high output alternator is available for a 200tdi Disco?, and if so where from
Regards
Keith
timing belt system
in Discovery Forum
Posted
Don`t do it i bought my 97 disco that had a goosed engine because of these timing gears, they had only been fitted for 2000 miles. Luckily for me i got a very cheap disco
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Keith