JourneyMan

Hi, Can anyone tell me what the difference is between a Pursuit and a GS Spec D2? Thanks

Cheers Guys, I'd like to stick with LR, I've got 3 RR's and a Def and they get under your skin, so I've made up my mind to go for a D2 TD5. I know the standard performance is fine, enough of them go past me on the motorway going like stink so I know they're quick, it was just getting out of my 16 yo RR and getting into a D2 was a bit of a revelation, I was expecting it to be more refined than it was, kickdown just made more noise and no action and there's more room in my RR which surprised me. Thanks for your thoughts and feedback, I think its down to more searching, that particular car was a pup for the money and the warranty offered especially considering it was a Jag Main Stealer. Thanks

Ok, driven my first TD5 today and to be honest I wasn't impressed. Found it to be noisy and boomey at low revs and quite sluggish. Was this just this car???? It had no proper LR Service History despite the Dealer wanting well over the odss and there was a load of niggly little things, steering wheel off centre, discs all round had big lips at the outer edge of the discs and the gear change (auto) seemed very jerky (compared to my 16 yo RRC). I really think its just this car but I'd be keen to hear peoples views. Thanks

Hi Martin, Thanks for taking the time to put that together, it made interesting reading, so all in all, sounds like a good car. Does anyone have any advice on what to look for or are these cars no as weak as say a P38 or a Classic with stock faults? Thanks

And another thing, why do most owners want shut of them around 55-60K miles, looked at Autotrader and LR web site and theres loads, some reason for this????

Hi, New to the Discovery so excuse my ignorance (P38 and Classic Fuel Bills too much to swallow). I'm looking at buying a TD5 Disco 2 Auto (Facelift), any advice and pointers on what to look for? Cheers

Or there's Stuart Gilbert in Sittingbourne/Faversham 01795 843116. I've not actually used him yet, but he was really helpful on the phone when I was looking for a P38 and he's been recommended on here before. I'm just outside Rochester, PM me if you want. Cheers Mark

Geoff, You're right of course, but I've got 3 of the Solihull Wonders so I don't dislike them that much and when the used Disco 4's start to appear I might be tempted. Teslo, Yep, I've made some headway today, there is no remote on for the amp, the amp power (Purple/Yellow) is wired from the Electric Aerial signal. I've also made the same...yeah..I'll have that..one! error, my intended new head unit has only got one pre-out, so I'm going to have to buy one with 3. The only other annoying thing with it, when I've put the new unit in to test an individual pair of speakers, everytime I power the unit on I get a click/arcing sound momentarily through the speakers.

Hi Geoff, Thanks for your post. I'm beginning to think this is pig in a poke, that's why everyone seems to stick with the original setup. From what I can gather, the original head unit has no internal power amp, so all of the signals coming from Clarion head unit are low level so I think I need a different head unit with more pre outs, my new one only has one, so I need at least 3. I can then frig the old cable to connect to the Pre-Outs from the new head unit, which should drive the original Clarion amp in the boot but the amp doesn't seem to have a remote on from the head unit, which is what I guess the Red/Yellow and Black do. Knew I should of bought a Toyota Cheers Mark

All, A long time ago, I think my LSE was broken into and the Radio stolen, in the process they broke the lower dash under the radio where the Heated seat switch is. I've got a replacement one and centre console (as mines got a load of holes in it from a Car Telephone) and would like to replace them while the weathers still good. The L/R workshop manual doesn't cover this MY, does anyone know any web resources or have any experience of doing this and is it a pig of a job? Cheers

Hi, Has anyone had any success removing the Clarion Headunit from their Classic and retaining existing Speaker setup? I have bought a new unit and would like to retain the existing Door Speakers and Crossovers and the Clarion Sub Woofer in the boot. I've managed to make a lead from one I bought on eBay to avoid hacking the existing loom, all the new Head Units have 2 x 8 Pin DIN Connectors whereas LR put a Blue 8 Pin and Pink 10 Pin DIN Connector in the RR, so its not as straight forward as I originally thought. The Speaker Connector (Pink) in the back of the headunit is a screened cable and runs back to the Power Amp on top of the Sub, it has 5 -ve's running down one side and 5 Coloured Wires running down the opposite side of the connector, I've worked out that 4 of them are for the Front and Rear L/R speakers, but the 5th one is Red/Yellow and connects to a small silver box about the size of a fag packet on top of the subwoofer it has a little 7.5 Amp fuse in the box, if that helps to identify it, does anyone know what this box is and what the Red/Yellow is for? Cheers Mark

Aha, Cheers guys, but I think I've still got a minor problem with not getting any air movement out of the vent to the right of the clock. I'll investigate further. Thanks for everyones help. Does anyone know any resources for taking the lower dash section out, got LR W/shop manual but it doesn't cover it for this MY of RR? Cheers Mark

Ok, with the top off the expansion tank and the cap out of the top of the rad and letting the engine get warm, I've now got heat out of the Window Demist Vents on the top of the dash, so I'm guessing I had an airlock. But I'm still getting no output from the drivers side vent to the right of the clock but am getting air out of the passenger side, so I don't know if I've got a stuck flap on the drivers side, now unfortunately I don't have an owners manual for either of my RRC's so excuse the potentially stupid question.... With the far left vertical heater control pushed up towards the little picture of the vent and the heater on on hot, should I get hot air out of the vents where the clock is? Cheers

Hi Steve, Thanks, I'll have a look. Its 93 with a 3.9. Cheers Mark

Hi, I've changed my radiator in my Classic. The first problem is the heater isn't blowing hot and the second problem is the fan blows on all speeds out of the passenger side vents but nothing out of the drivers side. Any ideas on why the heaters not blowing hot air, I understand the heater is fed off the engine coolant, the main radiator hoses feel hot, the temp gauge inside the car goes up to sightly below the centre of the gauge and the coolant level is covering the cross/level marker in the expansion tank and its 50/50 mix. Any ideas?? Air lock??? Is there 2 fans inside the heater unit or just one, which would explain why one side is working and the other isn't? The problem is I bought the car from eBay as a none runner, so I don't know whether the heater ever worked. Cheers

Hi, Changing a radiator on my normal Classic and the new rad doesn't come with the fittings for the Oil and ATF Coolers, no problem, take the old ones off and swap them over. When I removed the fittings I noticed there's a white crust on the rad side of the fitting, do these fittings have to be re-fitted with something like plumbers mate? Thanks

Speak to Trading Standards, if they're a Main Agent, also speak to LR Customer Service. As per The Sale of Goods and Services Act "In a contract for the supply of a service where the supplier is acting in the course of a business, there is an implied term that the supplier will carry out the service with reasonable care and skill" Their business is repairing cars, 5 months doesn't imply reasonable skill. Also, its the expectation of any "Reasonable" person, a reasonable wouldn't not expect a garage to take 5 months to remedy any issue, always stress reasonable. Good Luck.

Hi Guys, Thanks for the responses. They all screw in by hand with no excessive resistance required. 28Nm did seem very high for a piddling little 1/4" bolt, but I was following what those wonderful people at Solihull put in there wonderful book Lesson learned! I've done some digging on the web and found for a High Tensile 8.8 1/4" Diameter bolt a Max Torque value of 10Nm Fortunately I've got more bolts as my local LR Dealer doesn't stock them so had to order them from LR in packs of 10 (Good money making scheme) so I'll give it another go tomorrow night, hopefully no harm done. Pulling threads, sounds painful Cheers Mark

Hi All, My Radiator started leaking shortly after I bought my LSE so I decided to change it and the water pump at the same time along with the top and bottom hose, all Genuine LR parts. I've had 2 attempts at fitting the water pump and it always end the same, me swearing a lot and sheared bolts. The first time I used all of the original bolts from the old pump, 2 of the 1/4 bolts sheared when being torqued up. The second time I used all new bolts ordered from LR, every single one is brand new including the long bolts (I read a story on another forum of someones shearing while they where driving and it trashed the pump) so didn't take any chances, you've guessed it, one of the brand new 1/4 bolts has sheared. What am I doing wrong? Am I using the wrong torque setting on these 1/4" UNC Bolts, I really need to get the car back on the road but don't want to take it to a Specialist for open wallet surgery I've ordered all new bolts from LR so they should be the real deal high tensile I've had my torque wrench calibrated I'm torquing them up to 28Nm which is what the Haynes and LR Workshop Manuals tell you to Anyone??? Please?? Cheers

Hi Andi, So you did it then! What year is the car, as it'll originally have had either a Clarion or Alpine Unit and I've found the wiring different, the Clarion has a power amp mounted on top of the Subwoofer and the Alpine has it integrated. Can you post cable colours that you have? They follow the normal colour convention for Power but not for the Speaker outputs as they can (depending on model) to a CrossOver in the door panel. Cheers Mark

Stick with genuine LR, but whatever you do decide to buy, make sure you replace the pump bolts (11mm headed small diameter UNC) bolts with new ones as 3 of mine sheared when I was re-assembling the pump using a ratchet and socket alone, that was before I'd even gone near them with a Torque Wrench (Torque setting is 28Nm).

Hi, Does anyone know if the headlinings for an LSE are still available either from Britpart or the likes? If not, anyone recommend a good glue to stick the thing back up with. Thanks

Hi Andi, Hope this helps 1) This guy on eBay sells the original items to install factory sat nav http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/P38-SAT-NAV-SCREEN-R...93%3A1|294%3A50 But this system is very old and an aftermarket professionally installed unit will knock the socks of it, although I did see a Holland & Holland up for sale that had had the newer L322 system retrofitted. 2) Yes they're easy to fit, the side steps bolt on, genuine LR bull bars also bolt on. Genuine items come up for sale as new old stock on eBay. 3) Sorry can't help on this one. 4) I have a LR Accessories Brochure in my collection for most P38 model years, most of the stuff you can no longer get from LR, again, bigger LR dealers have a purge and list it on eBay. If you want a particular item I can give you the part number. Its best if you can get a P38 with all of the whistles and bells already fitted, but as you've seen from the listings any P38 is buyer beware and when I was looking for one every indie specialist told me that 80% of whats out there isn't worth touching, I spent 6 months looking for a good one and gave up and bought another Classic

Cheers, thanks Nige. I've just spent ages trying to get the Water Pump off, first the viscous coupling took some persuading, now theres one bolt behind the power steering pump pulley that I cant get to, anybody know any cute ways to get the this off? Ta

Thanks Nige, so its ok just to go with grease.