JourneyMan

Thanks Nige, so its ok just to go with grease.

Hi, Bit of a combination of a question...... I'm Replacing the water pump on my Classic, I haven't taken the original off yet, the original one has got what appears to be sealant between the mating faces but the Land Rover Workshop Manual and Haynes Manual both say use light grease on the paper gasket and then torque it up......opinions, do I need a gasket sealant or is LR procedure sufficient????? Secondly while I'm doing the water pump, I've taken the Rad out and given it a good flush but this has exposed a bit of surface rust under where the rad sits, usually I use Matt Black Smoothrite to touch up after Kurust, but does anyone have any good recommendations about specific chassis paint????? Thanks.

Thanks Steve, I'll have a look.

Hi, Does anyone have any experience with Rimmers Pattern Radiators for the Classic, mines started to go in the bottom corner . I had experience of their Pattern Triumph stuff years ago and it wasn't always up to scratch, but £520 for the OEM LR one is a bit pricey. Thanks in advance

Hi All, There is a short pipe running from the RHS of the Plenum Chamber which terminates in a T Piece to a larger bore pipe that then goes to the LHS Rocker cover, mine has snapped, so the cars running rough. Does anyone know if the T Piece is still available from LR Main Agents. By slim chance, does anyone out there own a parts catalogue for the Classic RR that could give me the part number? Rimmer Brothers don't list one??????? As this has gone brittle and snapped I didn't fancy chancing a salvage one. Any help greatly appreciated.

Thanks guys, my plan is to rebuild the compressor first, there's kits on eBay from the seller P38 Spares, but before I bought one I wanted to see if the compressors were the same as I have a new P38 one in my hoard of spares. I'll be out with the soapy water as soon as the fog clears.

Hi, Does anyone know whether the Air Compressor/Valve Block and Driver are different between the Classic and P38? My LSE is taking its time to get up to its normal height, it gets there eventually. Thanks in advance.

Hi, Looking for a really good, low mileage (under 47K) Petrol P38 HSE/Vogue SE/Westminster, preferably 2001 or 2002, does anyone know of one out there? Have tried all of the usual places (eBay, Autotrader, Exchange & Mart, Pistonheads and local specialists) with no success. Would really like a Holland & Holland but even harder to track down Sorry I know the boards not really supposed to be used for this, but I'm getting desperate. Thanks

Hi All, Does anyone on here subscribe or is a member of the Range Rover Register? Looking at buying a very late P38 (2001/2002) HSE/Vogue SE/Westminster with very low mileage. Having exhausted all of the internet resources, was wondering whether there's a For Sale section in the back of the Members Mag before subscribing? Thanks

After spending the last 9 months looking for an LSE Soft Dash with low mileage I give up! So its looking like a P38 as the three I've looked at aren't full of rust and oil leeks and don't look they've been used as a dog kennel, seem in reasonable nick and have low mileage (under 60K). After reading all the resources I can find, I'm more confused than before I started, some resources say that the 4.6 is to be avoided at all costs, literally, due to the porous block/liner issues, others say its an urban myth as long as its looked after and the cooling system is in top condition, others say the 4.0 is the engine to go for, thats what the police used! One 4.6 I've seen has had a new water pump so the coolant/anti-free look new, so its difficult to tell if it has block issues, the top hose seemed ok and not hard after a run, could this have overheated previously? and thats why the pumps been replaced, any easy way to check? So who out there owns a P38 and what are peoples experience of both engines, also, any other advice would be greatly appreciated, do these rust anywhere as they dont seem as bad as a Classic. Thanks

Hi, Going looking at an RRC with the full kahuna Brooklands Body Kit fitted including the natty roof spoiler, I believe this was an original option but for reasons of good taste not often chosen. My question is, does anyone know anything about this roof spoiler, hows it fitted, bonded, clipped to the gutter or my worst fear screwed through the roofhttp://forums.lr4x4.com/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif? Any advice gladly received.

Had a look in the RR W/S manual, obviously check your ATF level, manual suggests sticking reverse interlock valve in control unit.

Hi Dan Glad to hear you're hopefully getting somewhere, as you know I'm going through the rejection situation with mine. Did you take legal advice? my understanding is that by accepting the vehicle back having rejected it, you've waived your right to later subsequent rejection. But if its all good now, hopefully it'll be happy motoring from now on.

Thanks guys.

Has Anyone transplanted a TD5 into an RRC successfully?

Hi Andy, Thanks for your reply. You say camshaft wear, is this just noise on start up, the tappety sound you get if the engines worn??? to be honest not really heard a ropey sounding V8 RRC on my search, looked at 4 so far and it always seems the same old story....rot on the door frames and a/b/c/d post that doesn't make them an interesting prospect. I suppose the only real way to check is a blow by compression test? Thanks Mark

Hi All, New to this forum. Looking round for a Range Rover LSE and have heard something about the 4.2 engine being problematic and its something to do with fueling mixture and what Land Rover did to get the engine through US emissions controls resulting in liner problems in higher mileage engines. Any of it true or is it another urban myth???? Anything to look out for, tell tales signs etc. Thanks in advance.

Try updating the firmware on the router first, had exactly the same with my Belkin and it wouldn't go to *.co.uk sites but liked *.com

I have been dealing with the Dealer Principal, hes the one that said all this normal.... I have every intention of seeing this one through to end and by the looks of it, it will be through the courts. I can't afford to pay the best part of £25K for a car that the paint keeps cracking on the roof and additional venting at the bottom of the door. Can you tell me whether you rejected your Disco and what was the Dealers initial response?

You say your piece MP, I appreciate everyones input on this. I'm new to Land Rover ownership and bought new with a view to looking after it and keeping it for life. I've not been put off by the car in any way, it puts a grin on my face everytime I drive it, just the Dealer and Land Rover's apathetic response so far. What I can't understand is if its normal why is it only happening on one side of the vehicle, surely this suggests that car on the nearside hasn't been constructed properly and as the door deal isn't sealing properly its allowing moisture in to this area and causing this white beard. I've been advised by Trading Standards and a Solicitor to take them to court for a full refund but why I have go through this Sabre rattling is madness. I'd been interested to know who TOP90's dealer is?

Steve, To be honest, I have spoken to Land Rover Customer Care, while they've been very helpful they've stayed very much on the fence and have said they can't force the Dealer to do anything as they're a franchise, the Dealer doesn't return calls to LR Customer Care either. I've read DanielTD5 woe's with his 2007 Defender and he seems to have done quite well with LRCC, so far, in my case, they've been a bit to impartial.

Sounds like a trend emerging here, my dealer has been a complete disappointment from beginning to end, from never returning calls to missed delivery dates, etc... They were still PDI'g and applying the paint protector when I arrived to collect the car, despite having 2 weeks notice of when I was going to collect it. Theres been no offer of remedial work to replace the door seals, just the usual Dealer response of all is normal. I have officially rejected the vehicle in writing and asked for a refund, but surprisingly (sarcasm) they have declined, haven't offered a replacement car so I've been advised to take them to court. All I want is to get the money back to buy exactly the same car, hopefully this time without faults, but from a Dealer who cares. Anybody had any success going down this route?

Thanks Tim, My concern is that moisture is getting in and that's what has caused the white crust to form where the A-Post meets the floor, to a large extent its hidden by the carpet mat, the Dealers response was yes thats normal, yet if its normal I'd expect to see the same on the Drivers side also. I understand they all have there quirks and a number of people seem to have had issues with the gearbox but I've found as long as you drive it as suggested by Mr Woo then it seems nice and smooth. The paint around the seam where the sloping part of the roof meets the flat part just seems to keep cracking, you can see what looks like a orange/yellow foam underneath.

Hi, I'm new to Defender ownership and took the plunge last year with a new 90 XS and have been nothing but impressed with the cars abilities so far. From delivery the car has had paint defect on the roof along the seam, the dealer have repaired it once before and I noticed the paint was starting to come off again a couple of weeks ago and its gone back again for another respray. There is also daylight visible from the bottom corner of the passenger door (closest to the A-Post) and co-incidently there was also white crust in this area, where the black angled vertical post on the A-Post, just inside the door shut where it comes down to meet the floor. I have obviously raised this with the supplying Dealer and they have said, yes, thats quite normal (crust) and within the manufacturing tolerance of the vehicle and they all are like that (daylight), which sounds like absolute bull@£$%. I'd appreciate any input from other owners of 2007 MY as to whether they've had the same issues. Thanks