mickeyw
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Posts posted by mickeyw
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ISTR that @Turbocharger was working on an air suspension setup on his 90 during lockdown. I don't recall how that finished up.
Edit: here you go
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Holy thread resurrections Steve 🫨
Afraid I can't tell you anything long term. I used the truck like this for a year or so before buying my 110 CSW and had no major problems. I was more than happy with the set up from a seat belt safety perspective, but the floor bracket was a bit of a pain when loading large box shaped things. A recessed fixing would have been a better solution.
Jon Lane now owns my old 90, which as you probably know is now a soft top.
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1 hour ago, landroversforever said:
I believe the 50ths also got the 1.2 transferbox, so that combined with defender rather than disco sized tyres knocks the acceleration back.
This is correct. They were fitted with rather tall gearing of the 1.2 transfer box to reduce RPM (help economy) at cruising speed. The result was rather lackluster acceleration with the auto box.
Many V8 50th owners changed to the usual Defender 1.4:1 ratio to recoup some lost performance.
My own experience of a V8 auto 90 with 31" tyres and the 1.2 TRF box was horrible as it would rarely lock up in top gear. You needed to be doing around 55mph IIRC. Long motorway hills were a constant battle with the gearing. 1.4 ratio is so much better in all conditions.
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I'm using successfully one of these 12v clicky-clacky petrol pumps to pump Jizer around my tank. It pumps a good volume of liquid and seems OK with the Jizer. I have it connected to a 12 battery via a foot pedal switch.
My biggest headache is that the inline filter I have plumbed into the pickup line keeps clogging. I really need a sump with the pickup hose held sufficiently off the bottom, and maybe switch to a serviceable filter.
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On 5/28/2023 at 11:16 PM, smallfry said:
I have always tried to use aluminium Hella plugs and sockets, but they seem increasingly difficult to find.
They have a drain facility at the bottom, which a lot of the cheap plastic ones do not seem to have. I also keep mine sprayed regularly.
I need to fit a towbar to one of my vans, but I have thought of filling the back of both the plug and socket with potting compound.
I once bought a genuine LR Defender towing loom at an auto jumble. The back of the socket was indeed potted.
I've more recently bought 13 pin sockets of no known brand (evilbay), and they seem reasonably well made.
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On 4/25/2023 at 7:34 AM, rusty_wingnut said:
Taking this aside, you just need an up and running vehicle - no point upgrading diffs etc for this.
This ^^^
Remember that your truck is 35 years old and is likely well worn. Reliability isn't always about upgrading stuff, but having equipment in well maintained and serviceable condition. With this thought you would be well advised to examine to entire drive train and replace anything that is past its best, from the engine down to the wheel bearings and hub seals, but not overlooking things like the cooling system as well.
After this I always recommend the 'drive to arrive' approach, not just in terms of road safety but mechanical sympathy too. Landrovers require a lot of effort to drive at a sustained motorway speed. My V8 110 can exceed 85mph if I want it to, but it's a bit of a hair raising experience. Cruising at 60-70 however is very notably more relaxed for the driver and less likely to break the vehicle, not to mention the reduced fuel consumption. If you want to burn up the motorway a German barge would be a far better tool for the job
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3 hours ago, Snagger said:
I thought there was more…
This reminds me of a set of Airfix model panels 😁
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23 minutes ago, Hybrid_From_Hell said:
Not suprised
well past being any good.
4 pages on how to fit a mudflap, and technical stuff wrong "the LT95 gearbox in the picture" - nope its a LT85 etc.
Nige
Reading articles purporting to be fact, when I knew they were technically wrong is what killed the magazines for me too, plus the ever increasing percentage of ads, and I'm talking about at least 15 years ago. I've owned LRs for over 30 years and learned a lot in that time from magazines. I've always worked on and modified my own vehicles, I've been an off-roader, a green laner, a workhorse user and daily driver of LRs, but I don't think I am who today's magazines are aimed at. I get far more out of some of the more niche-focused LR social media pages that fit my interest.
There have been several mags that started off good, as they were written by true enthusiasts that knew their subject in detail. They were generally successful, until they got gobbled up by a big publishing house that put profits before quality of content. The knowledgeable contributors went elsewhere, and younger folk who were new to the subject matter were brought in and produced a load of drivel.
I've always enjoyed James' Roverphile columns and he's recently been sharing his writings on FB. For me he stands out for his high quality of journalism and content, although sadly he is one of a declining number.
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On 3/24/2023 at 7:29 PM, Happyoldgit said:
Those little cables eventually corrode as they are vulnerable to road salt and carp. I put chains on mine like Uncle Ralph.
Same, I fitted a stainless chain and drilled the tow pin to take a 5mm stainless lynch pin (a standard IWT part). I hate R clips, especially in cold weather.
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Years ago Ashcrofts were doing gearbox build demonstrations at Billing. I was about to rebuild my own box so spent a while talking to the chap and he took me through LT230 assembly. This included giving me the opportunity to feel what the correct preload felt like. Free to turn, but with a little resistance is as good as I can describe it. That was how he did it, with experienced hands and eyes.
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Out of stock already, not that I need one 🤣
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On 3/16/2023 at 9:34 AM, hurbie said:
of course it's easier with a holder for every tool , but it's possible for us as "hobby" users to get the work done with just 2 toolholders , and at the same time keeping a eye open for some extra one's.
and however many tool holders you have, you could always use a few more
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On 3/7/2023 at 1:02 PM, Junglie said:
But a GREAT way to become a YouTube sensation!
Or get £250 from You've Been Framed
On top of what Jeremy has listed I'd also take a grease gun and lube the prop shaft joints before going far.
If you want an example of what an extreme case (not driven in 20+ years) entails, have a watch of Vice Grip Garage on Youtube. His 'will it start and drive 600 miles home' videos are epic.
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Sorry, I lost track of the body mount part. I would have thought that this application would benefit from a softer bush to dampen NVH coming through the chassis. Some of the bushes on my Merc are oil filled with isolation properties in mind.
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52 minutes ago, Snagger said:
I can’t remember the names, though one is the Comet, but I have the same Hella lamps on my 109 as used on Camel Trophy 110s and both types work well (I suspect the Comets are the rectangular type on the bullbar above a winch, another set as driving lights on my RRC, and the round type on the rack are the other name). They seem reasonably rugged and their plastic casings won’t dent or rust. They take standard H3 bulbs, for which LED replacements are two-a-penny.
Hella's Comet 500 is 6" round, the Comet 550 is rectangular 7.5" x 4".
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57 minutes ago, elbekko said:
Don't forget the prices in the link are in SEK, so divide by ~10 for EUR/GBP
Thanks for pointing that out. I had assumed it was Euros - eek!
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I have not experienced or heard of either brand, but I did have the original RH Engineering Polybushes on my old 90.
At the time they offered the red firm bush and the blue softer bush. I had an interesting conversation about these differences which led me to choose the firm ones for the axle and Panhard rod locating bushes, both of which don't need much flex but benefit from good location, and the softer ones at the chassis end of radius and trailing arms which see a lot more movement. I liked the logical sense in this.
At the time the majority of PU bushes on offer were the hard type, and in high flex applications they were known to break suspension bolts after hard use, so I would warn against such a fitment.After 12 years' service one of the rear radius arm Polybushes failed, which I didn't think was bad. I replaced with SuperPro due to availability at the time. I sold the truck some years ago but believe that the Superpros are still on there.
Before you choose any brand, at least find out how flexible they are.
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OK folks, thanks for all the suggestions. I appreciate that cheap and good is like looking for the holy grail. All unbranded stuff is as much of a gamble as buying things in blue boxes.
Nick, the reflectors are now 'ventilated', so unfortunately recoating is not an option. It's annoying really as the outer lamp housings are stainless and in fine shape.
Ralph, the Comets appear to be a good option in so far as they will fit the gap and are priced to suit to pocket. Alas Dave's Roolights are too big for my application, 6" does limit choice for sure.
Jason I've seen the Lazer stuff in person and seen how they turn night into day, alas I won't ever spend that much on a light for my Landrover. This rules out the Biltema stuff Elbekko has too, as nice looking as it is.
Mr Drumstick, thanks for the video links. That Osram light bar looks better designed than many on offer, and is also fairly discreet, and it would fit beneath my A-bar leaving good access to the winch rope. Price is acceptable and performance appears impressive. I'm not snubbing LED per se, but many of the cheaper products just look horrible.
I think the choice so far is between the Comets and the Osram light bar.
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I've always supplemented my Landrovers' headlights with a modestly priced pair of 6" round halogen spot lights with 100w bulbs in - modestly priced because if I break them it's no big deal. However the reflectors in my current set are well past their best and providing less lumens than I'd like. They've seen well over 10 years' service so I'm happy to replace with a new set, only it seems such spec of light is now less easy to find having been displaced by a multitude of LED offerings.
Now I have nothing against new tech, but I also have no wish to spend silly money for a set of LED headlights (most look cack IMO anyway) or the crazy money of some high end LED (Lazer, Trucklite etc) spotlights on sale. The cheaper LED products on evilbay or the jungle website seem to start out OK but quickly lose brightness and/or fill with moisture.
So the big question - can someone recommend (from first hand experience) some lower prices LED spots that are no bigger than 6" diameter to hang from my A-bar and clear a TDS9500 winch that sits above the bumper, and have given good performance for at least a couple of years). They need to have a decent spot driving beam, and not look ridiculous. I don't do garish bling bolt-on stuff, I just need functional and understated looks that no-one will feel the urge to pinch, and I won't be too upset if I damage them.Over to you guys and girls, and thanks in advance.
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Looking good.
I've been lucky enough over the year to find dumped supermarket trolleys in the hedge near me. As long as they aren't the type with wheels that stick to travelators the castors are very good for use on engine trolley builds.-
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Matt I bought a pair of the ones Ralph linked to. They are not the same materials the originals were made from, and they are not as accurate as I might have liked and do require a bit of trimming here and there. You'll need to cut notches around the door check strap bracket for instance, and go round taking the razor sharp edges off them.They are however a solution that is a whole lot tidier than my knackered old trim panels. Not much alternative really.
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Well done Junglie.
I think you've proven what I suspected in that the cam profile wears to the point that it no longer functions correctly. My 110's latches are in a similar situation. The awkward part is not knowing exactly what that profile looked like when new. Your two plates pictured give a good clue even if the outer shapes differ from each other.
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19 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
I would grind a little off the tops, not the faces doing the gripping;
A little tickle in the apex for clearance is not going to cause the puller to fail specially if you make sure it's got a radius to it not just a square-edged cut. It's a very robust lump.
When I did this job I wound the puller up as tight as I dared, then heated the arm with a blowlamp plus some whacking with a hammer to encourage it to let go. The puller is there to keep it all under tension, if it's not coming off easily you're probably not going to get it off just by winding the puller up tighter and tighter.
Same thoughts here regarding where to remove the metal.
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On 12/10/2022 at 11:18 PM, PolarBlair said:
Tray inserts are in, but the smaller one needs to be re-printed. Easy enough as both the large and small tray inserts just slot into place. Break glass hammer is in although I made a complete mess of the epoxy.
Might take the opportunity to jazz up the design with some coin holder slots for parking.
That bin behind the shifter is good use of space. I believe that space was an optional location for the radio in the US models this console is based on. Oh and the cup holders look great, they really fit well.
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Pump My Ride - Ninety on air
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
Hey @Turbocharger, where have you got to with this project? Must be time for an update.