mickeyw

The big glass one in front of me plus my phone makes 2 😉. Having one to replace the RV mirror seems less intrusive that something else stuck on the dash.

NIge I was looking at those mesh imprints and thinking how unworn the teeth appear in general. I think the contact point is not perfectly positioned, but it's far from terrible either. It looks a little more inboard than I would expect. However you have far more experience than I do in this area. To the OP - Welcome to the forum. Great to see a well written post with some clear photos How much in-out play would you say there was on the pinion - was it particularly noticeable? Since you have dismantled things this far have you removed the pinion bearings to check their condition? Di

I bought a cheap clone of a Go Pro some while back. That takes some fair quality video, but my reason for buying it was to use as a wireless (it uses Bluetooth and is battery powered) reversing camera. The plan was to use it with my Android phone, but as has been noted above, the apps for Android are rather too flaky to work without a load of faffing about. There seem to be a plethora of WiFi cams (still need a power supply) on evilbay that work with their dedicated screen. IMO the ones that hook over your rear view mirror seem like the best plan.

I know this model was 400 bhp, but 17 MPG 😲😲😲. That's probably not far off a Supercharged RRS consumption. The engine certainly sounded nice - I could almost enjoy that in place of a V8 soundtrack. In fact the sound is reminiscent of the 300SE Merc my dad once had - another straight 6 that could take off like a startled cat I rather like Harry's presenting style. I know nothing of him but he's certainly a very watchable motoring presenter. Seems pretty free of BS and bias. This made for possibly the best review of the new Defender that I've seen to date.

Hi and welcome. That shaft end looks distinctly of the leaf sprung LR style. The threaded end and split pin hole are the telltale signs. I've not seen a more recent Santana shaft. Coil sprung axle shafts are splined to the end and have a circlip groove around the outside diameter. I'll echo that some more photos of the vehicle will help us identify what you have.

But they were able to extend outwards, thus carving a nice hole in whatever was in the way.

Didn't Queen Boadicea have swords attached to the wheels of her chariot? Our esteemed man on Her Majesty's Secret Service also benefited from similar weapons, so it must be a good idea 😅

My old 90 was a factory V8, so 3.5 carb engine with a LT85 and 1.192 transfer ratio. Bear in mind that most 90s left the factory with little 205 tyres, so could easily handle this gearing. The 750R16s I was running also managed OK After that trf box died the cheapest option was a used 1.22:1 unit. Later on I upgraded to a 3.9, and later still a ZF auto box and 33" tall tyres (255/85R16). The 1.22 ratio was absolutely dreadful with the auto as it was too highly geared. It never got into top on general back roads driving speeds. On motorways it would cruise OK comfortably until you got to

Agreed, a 2.5 NAD would have been built with a 1.6:1 box. As Fridge has said, a 3.9 will happily pull a 1.22:1 transfer ratio behind a manual gearbox box in a 110. That is as long as your tyres are no bigger than say 33"

I bought one of the USB port plus voltage display devices as shown above. However I have resisted fitting it so far, as I prefer my charger ports to be permanent live rather than ignition switched. I appreciate that this display must use very little power, but it is nonetheless a drain, which on an infrequently used vehicle is a bad thing. Obviously the ideal solution would be to run it through an independent switch, which is something else I need to find a round tuit for 😅 As an aside I also found the voltage displayed is not the same as my expensive multimeter.

As a 10 year old I was taken to school by a friend's mum in a P5B. I always felt that car was a bit special but didn't really know why at the time. I do remember us running out of petrol on more than one occasion 😅

This YouTube channel just popped up in my suggested videos https://www.youtube.com/c/ToolsStuff/videos He has numerous real Makita vs fake videos

Steve, think of it like a fuel tank - the more Ah the longer it'll run. All the Makita LXT batteries seem to have the same size case, so it's just the cells that differ. I see on other brands the 2Ah batteries are often a lot smaller (and lighter) than a 4 or 5Ah, so I imagine they get their greater capacity by using more cells. Li-ion batteries can give very high current delivery, but I would have thought the tool would regulate this irrespective of battery capacity. These are intelligent devices, unlike a car starting from a battery that has a higher CCA. Makita do a 6Ah as well

Welcome Andy, and good luck with the project. Ross ( @landroversforever) is our most qualified resident member in the problem you have

It's a valid point Barry, but I have yet to be troubled by this problem. I tend to do up flap disks with a gloved hand because you can get reasonable grip on the disk. With a delicate cutting disk this isn't possible, so I always use a spanner. The spinning cheek poker deserves a whole extra level of respect and is always tightened properly and used wearing welding gauntlets.