mickeyw

I have seen that method of tipping before. First time was on a foreign D130 station wagon I saw in the car park at Newbury. Apparently it is a commercially available kit on the continent. If this chap made his own, then fair play - it looks very good.

Another happy owner here. I used to either have a constantly jammed handbrake, or one that didn't work with the early type drum handbrake. It was generally the expander that got stuck after a heavy off roading session through deep mud. Consequently I was always having the drum off and the expander apart for a clean. The X brake may not be perfect - I did sometimes find a degree of light rubbing, as if the disk was warped. I should point out that fitting the disk to a less than perfectly clean drive flange can produce this condition, so correct fitting is important. However, it always worked when required, and never jammed on me. Those latter points makes it far superior to the standard fitment, IN AN OFF ROAD APPLICATION. I pointed out to someone else recently that IMO if you don't off road, this device is not really necessary. A correctly maintained drum brake works very well, even with big trailers attached. If your handbrake is giving trouble and you only drive on the roads, just correct the problem to standard spec, and it'll work fine.

That's interesting Jeremy. I wasn't aware BOC were making an effort in this direction. Are they a recent arrival? The Hobbyweld bottles are 137 bar, which as you say, is about half the Ryval pressures. What was killing me pricewise was the bottle rental when a BOC size Y bottle was lasting me 2-3 years! To begin with Ryval looks like a better deal, until you take the delivery cost into account. I can't see an option to collect from a local depot, which I can for my local Hobbyweld outlet.

Correct. I've been using their argon co2 mix for MIG for some years now. You pay a deposit on a bottle, then a price for the gas/refill. It's no different to how you get propane bottles really. They have distribution point around the country, but you can order online and state which outlet you want to collect from, or they will deliver for a price. http://www.adamsgas.co.uk/product-category/hobby-welding-gas/

Here we all are, well aware that it's pretty easy to break into a Defender. However it seems that even the Jeep Wrangler, which probably isn't much harder to enter, is still not safe despite having more complex security systems. http://www.zdnet.com/article/biker-group-charged-with-hacking-hundreds-of-jeeps-in-crime-spree/

Arjan, my early 110's roof also has steel gutters. I didn't think that part was any different from the Series type. I know later Defender roofs are constructed a bit differently, but they must still have a steel gutter for rigidity??? Regarding the wipers, why not remove the central windscreen bar? Of course would need a single piece of glass cut to fit, but you could then keep the Defender wiper arms. You may need to use the shorter series wiper blades. I have not proven this concept but the logic seems good in my mind.

waiting for @landroversforever to pop his head up

Wow, somehow I missed this thread. Number one for me is finish putting the 4.2 together, and get it in the 110 which has been engineless and off the road for far too long. That'll do for now. This year has been difficult with a significant bereavement in the family, so having the LR back on the road will provide some small sense of normality.

Lots of cars in the background. Looks like a car dealer. edit. Just looked at the ad. Clearly a dealer. It strikes me as overly shiny, yet no pics of the engine bay or underneath/ chassis condition. Call me suspicious, but I'd be wary of it being a polished turd - unfortunately there are too many of those on the bay. If you're serious about it, ask for more photos and give it a thorough look over before you decide to buy.

Entering your chassis number here comes back with this

Sounds like you're insured with Dick Turpin and Associates. With a hike that that you may as well have stumped up the £3k repair yourself and not claimed in the first place, grrr! My experience with classic policies is that the vehicle covered can't be your only transport. Some companies don't allow commuting on classic policies. Limiting the mileage certainly helps. Our cars (we have 3 between the two of us) are all on about a 4k year allowance each, and we don't normally manage that much. Postcode is certainly a major factor - there's not a lot you can do about that. I can't see that insuring in another name at the same address will help.

Unfortunately with the demise of so many Boge levelling units, and owners fitting heavier springs to compensate, I doubt there are too many RRCs that still have their magic carpets.

Well done for persevering. I have yet to drive an air sprung RRC, but one day......maybe on the one-ten even

Yes, crammed in to the point of it being difficult to move A tip I picked up from ingenious woodworker and engineer Matthias Wandel (find him on Youtube) is to have as much equipment as possible on wheels. that way it can be nested away when not in use, while the items you want to use can be moved into a usable position. Obviously this won't work for everything; like my lathe, mill and #1 bench are far to big and heavy. My supplementary benches are currently Workmates with large boards clamped to them. They can be dragged about, but this often leads to the contents rolling or rattling off in the process. My longer term plan is to make a couple of mid-sized mobile benches, maybe with fold down extensions too. I shall try to make these matching heights so they can be pushed together for bigger projects.

It just needs to be smaller than the pipe being beaded. I don't think I needed to reduce it - the screw head diameter happened to be just right