mickeyw

See this @Hybrid_From_Hell

You can check the oils and see what colour they are. A clear golden appearance is of course much better than mucky and dark. The overdrive will likely be noisy whatever the condition, but they tend to continue working in this state. I've known 3 series overdrives in my time. They have a habit of spraying oil out of the breather in the top cover plate. It is no more than a plate with a hole, with a split pin in the hole. Consequently they do lose oil, so make sure it hadn't been run dry. The main box should engage and change gear freely. The series 3 box is full synchromesh in forward gears, so expect no bad crunching on gear changes. Worn boxes will rattle quite a bit when you ease of the accelerator and go to overrun, but I have known good ones that are fairly quiet. Also when entering overrun, check it doesn't jump out of gear. Weak detent springs or worn gears can cause this to happen. Hope this helps.

Interesting project Daan. I have encountered two Mahindras in my time, both of which were just a couple of years old. One was body rusting at an alarming rate. The other's front axle fell apart. Now I think about it, I am talking over 25 years ago. How old is your new purchase? If you are replacing the body shell I guess the rust isn't an issue for you. When it went on the LR Experience tour a few years back they explained how much the RRS et al are now riveted construction. It saves them on huge energy bills vs spot welding.

I have to disagree Ross. When I learned to weld that was all there was, and I can't say it was a problem. Mastering the helmet nod was just part of learning to TIG. Fix lenses ain't so bad really. Sometimes I still use mine when MIGing under a car as it can help with access. We are very spoiled today.

R-tech welding have some cheaper ones. Their machines have good reputations (I have 2), so I'd be inclined to trust their helmets.

Guy's new book; new rigger boots, which were just in time since the old ones fell apart last week. Some cash that I've already spent on some welding accessories, and a bottle of port and Stilton which will be enjoyed when I get a moment to sit down later. #2 daughter has been puking and worse for the last 24 hrs 😞 so I'll hit the bottle if I can get her to bed for long enough. I bought the kids some Lego, which of course they will have to share with me 🤣

I fitted a set of those to my series, decades ago. I think my 110 could do with a set on the rear. I don't see why it would matter which way you orient the snail cam, but I'd try and fit them all the same way round.

I was talking to someone at the weekend that had used some DIY-fit stitched leather covers on his Defender front door trim panels, as well as the dash top. Afraid I have no idea of the supplier

PM sent.

I've used Readsons paints on farm machinery before. Man, can that give you a headache, even in an open barn ! I hope the Xylene doesn't melt the glues in the ply

My mind read that a bit differently to start with. Sounded much more decent the second time round 🤣

Ditto ^^^

How hot they get depends on how much power is being drawn. In any case this resistor sits in the air intake duct, so has a good flow of cooling air blown across it. It doesn't need anything more.

Good effort Waine. I've recently been through a similar repair on my 110

The loads indeed go through the floor, but a heavy bench stops the whole lot moving around when the hammering is in a non vertical plane