mickeyw

I did this recently. It was the best spent £10 and half hour of work I've managed in along time. No more rattling windows for me 😁 I bought the felt strip from Woolies trim.

Our camping fridge is an Outwell unit. We have been really impressed with it. Just one drawback though - it only runs in the car with the engine running, that is to say when voltages are up at charging levels. It won't run of a 12v car battery. I have yet to experiment and see exactly what voltage it cuts out at. This hasn't been such a problem when we've pre-cooled it at home, gone on a long trip in the car and run on campsite mains while we're there. More annoying for back woods camping though, but that's when the big Coleman ice chest comes into its own. That'll easily keep things cold for 2-3 days if you throw a big bag of ice in the bottom to begin with. Editted brand after looking in the garage

That looks very similar to the Numax XV31MF I have in the 110, only the Numax has both standard and stud terminals.

Looks like a handy solution for the sort of items you mention Ralph. I've used bungee nets suspended from the ceiling for clothing. My thoughts on a solid shelf - How does it position? I wouldn't want to bump my head on it while leaning into the back. Would it in any way impede access to other items in the back? It'll block the light from the dome light above, so I'd maybe want some additional load area lighting. Not trying to be negative, more raise points for consideration.

I had a similar experience many years back, only in deepest darkest Wales. We were in a mate's company Mazda 5, off on a mountaineering weekend. We hit a rock on the side of a narrow single track road which wrecked the tyre. Having found the car had no spare, and realised the compressor and can of snot was no use at all, we limped on to a place we could stop and other traffic could pass. A 10 minute walk to higher ground where we had a mobile signal, then trying to describe the the RAC operator where we where.....what's your address, what's the street number of the nearest house? The poor woman had no idea what to do with an OS grid reference, so we gave turn by turn directions from the nearest town, which was a good 20 mins drive away. What a palava! 2 hours later a breakdown van turns up, removes the damaged wheel and tyre and takes said mate off to find a tyre shop...on a Sunday... in the back end of Wales. Meanwhile the rest of us went off on a walk. Several hours later we returned to the car to find the breakdown chappy refitting the wheel, which was now wearing an eyewateringly expensive new tyre. That is why I always carry a serviceable spare.

This has been a pet hate of mine for years re DRLs. There is a particular year of VW Golf that has the front indicator and DRL unit (non LED) right next to one another, and like you say, it may as well have BMW indicators for all the visibility they have! I see that the latest cars with LED everything seem shut off the DRL while the indicator is operating (and about bluddy time too). Some even share the function of the LEDs, so it changes from a white emitter to blinking orange when indicating. A much smarter solution IMO.

I think these would rather work against the whole 'covert camper' thinking behind this build. I've only recently found this thread. Don't know how I missed it before but it is fascinating. When I saw Si's early renders my first thought was that he's put a 4-post lift inside a van. That's a whole new definition for a 4-post bed

Good grief Jeff, that was a close one. Glad you're on the mend. I'll echo what others are saying - your antics make Nige's efforts pale into relative insignificance🤣. Nige don't go getting all competitive will you! As much as your story telling over the years generally has top level entertainment factor, we would like you to stick around a while longer please. I think many of the older ones of us are from the 'wait it out and see if it gets better on its own' camp, rather than rushing off to the doctor for every scratch. It was pretty much a year ago exactly that I was sitting in my home office thinking that I didn't feel great, and wondered if I'd eaten something dodgy. As the day wore on I felt worse and was persuaded to ring the doc, who told me to come and see him immediately. Anyway, long story short, my appendix was removed by 10pm that night. Further ignorance off said problem would have been a bad idea. Lessons to learn.

There are many 'special tools' shown in the Green Bible, and often drawings enabling one to build one's own. I made this item for a similar large 'nut' (a large threaded ring with 2 flats) that you describe. In my case the target of attention was an LT85 gearbox. It's just a few bits of 1/2" thick steel (just what was to hand) welded together, with the centre square hole to suit a 1/2" drive ratchet handle.

I've used the DB combined tow ball and hitch for the last 30 years on various LRs, and invariably on an adjustanle drop plate. I think they are unbeatable for versatility. One key factor that many miss is that they should always be used with the pin installed, even when towing on the ball. It's on the DB instructions and on the plate that is rivetted on them when new. Failure to do so can result in the jaw bending. On the recovery thing, as others have said , I've never seen a tow ball fail, only the part it was attached to.

I'm more than happy enough with the factory offerings. However if I had to change them I'd rather have wood than aluminium that freezes your fingers in winter and burns 'em in the summer

Nice saw there Ross. Multico used to be just up the road from me.

Judging by the logo it looks like a Mac Industries table.

Very nice Ross - somewhat overkill? But very nicely made Did I miss the announcement of your fixture table? It looks very similar to what a number of popular YouTubers have been buying. Is yours bought or your own design?

A picture definitely helps. A very similar access issue can be found with a couple of the screws that secure the older type Rover V8 oil pump housing. That uses 1/4" UNC reduced head 12 pt screws. There is just about enough room to get in with a 5/16" ring spanner.