mickeyw

@Ed Poore what is unique about an LT85 PTO adapter? Would it not use the same as any LT230 coupled gearbox? Or did you mean LT95? 😉

The only reason I can accept for killing the Defender off is really to do with its very high build cost. The man hours to assemble it are many times that of a Range Rover, that they can sell for heaps more ££££££. The shape from a pedestrian POV is invalid IMO. As already mentioned Merc's G class, and Suzuki's new Jimny are more or less just as unfriendly to soft tissue. The emissions excuse is also invalid. LR has previously fitted newer and cleaner engines, so no reason not to continue with that. It's all about profit, which I can understand any business wanting to make. Just a shame they can't be honest about it. I am keen to see what Ineos comes up with, although I'll still stick with my 33 year old 110. It's economic for me to do so

A Bridgeport only has a 2HP motor, so is easily within the scope of a phase converter. However as I understand things, depending the type of motor you have will have a bearing over whether you can use a VFD. I have a 3kw rotary converter that runs my Colchester Student (3HP) motor quite happily, and will also handle the Bridgeport, if I ever get it to my garage from my mum's house. I know an RPC isn't the most knowledgeable efficient tool, but it allows a simple operation of both machines with no electrical alterations.

I run 255/85R16s on my V8 110, so circa 33" diameter. 1.4:1 transfer is optimal for a 110, especially if you tow anything remotely heavy. My previous V8 90 was on a 1.2:1 and same size tyres. This gearing was OK with a manual box, but when I changed to auto it was so overgeared it rarely made it into top gear on normal roads, and when a hill appeared it wouldn't pull top, but revved its nuts off in 3rd. Changing to 1.4:1 made a world of improvement. As others have said, work forward from the LT230 for positioning. I have a spare LT85, should you be interested....

I know the owner of the purple one. It's actually on a 110 chassis, and last time I saw it had a Tdi and auto box.

With your description of the motor and housing being full of gunk, your problem is almost certainly the seized motor. I have managed to free a motor in the past, but it depends how badly seized it is. Replacement may well be your best option. When the heater is on full speed power doesn't run through the resistor. When the fan is set to slow speed, that is when the resistor comes into play. If after sorting the motor problem you find the resistor is bad, you can replace it cheaply with one like I describe in my post further up

Plenty of room for expansion of your tool collection there. I'm struggling to shut the drawers on mine

I was getting befuddled when you mention you have a 110, then refer to leaf springs 😕 Then I see the rims - which don't look quite like Landrover items, and have Spain stamped on them. is your vehicle a Santana?

Have you examined the pull linkage from the remote handle to the lock (the horizontal flat bar in the picture)? It can be adjusted, and if too long, the lock can be a pain to open from the inside. There are two very small nut and bolts in long slots that you adjust to the required position, and the self tap screw that is drilled through to prevent these slipping. Over time, wear at the latch end can require readjustment of the linkage. First I suggest you do what @miketomcat suggests and lubricate everything. Before that though I like to squirt a load of brake cleaner fluid into the lock to flush out any hardened grease and debris, then relube with white grease from an aerosol can. Then, I'd disconnect the linkage so you can operate the latch end of it by hand, and see if the door opens as it should. Do not be afraid of removing the rivets in the latch, there's nothing too scary inside. Normally the handle return spring breaks, and leaves the handle limp and prone to rattling. I opened my door latches up to replace this spring (home wound, as of course these were never a replacement item), and fixed back together with countersunk screws and nuts. Of course if your springs are OK I'd leave it all alone.

I am sure this will become a great car, bought in large numbers by the lifestyle types. However the price alone, well I know the base models aren't so far off what a late model Old Defender cost new, is a big barrier for many people, especially those that want it to work for a living. My mother (now aged 78) has had a Ninety, and two Defender 110s, then moved to a FL2, and now has a Discovery Sport, all as her daily farm vehicle. Aside from the lesser towing capacity the latter two have been quite up to the job, more comfortable to drive, and a darned sight cheaper to buy and operate than the last Defenders. The FL2 was excellent as a farm car, the only real annoyance being the wretched parking sensors that go nuts when driving through long grass. With a set of seat covers it survived winters of wet and muddy coats, dogs and sheep, and a lot of towing, gaining numerous battle scars along the way. The jury is still out on the Disco Sport but it's doing OK so far. However the new Defender is a lot of money to spend of something that will get neglected and abused, when lesser, cheaper models are capable enough.

Wellll, what the heck. I seem to have mis-saved that data in my head. Pretty sure this was the article I read, which quotes a 4.5lb (2 kg) difference per tyre. (10 kg per set ) They also mention the Toyo having a much stiffer side wall.

I've been looking at the Toyo Open Country MT, as my BFGs are getting pretty perished, and the Toyo looks like a sensibly priced alternative. One thing I discovered is that compared to a BFG MT of the same size, the Toyo is nearly 10KG heavier PER TYRE!!! This is from manufacturer's data.

My 110 CSW is shod with 255/85R16 BFG muds 7x16 on modular rims. Suspension is all standard, nothing rubs, and I still have an excellent turning circle. I believe running Wolf rims will result in the tyres rubbing on the radius arms if you don't wind the lock stops out a little.

A standard 3.5 Defender rad is a petty thin unit, with no oil integral oil cooling provision. However the Turbo D rad does have an oil cooler circuit built into the end. My serp 3.9 (ex 1995 Discovery) came with oil cooler pipes that line up with the aforementioned rad without any alterations. Other serp variants may not be like this! The only thing to be aware of is the couplings that screw into the rad come in 2 different thread types. The earlier type are as found on a vee belted V8, and have a steel flared pipe end to seal against. The later type are a parallel fit, with o-ring.

I'm glad you got things sorted out. That looks like a pretty scary place to break down 😮