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About petrolhead63

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  1. Mr Haynes manual says to replace the camshaft sprocket bolts when refitting, is that the case? none included in a cylinder head kit, mind you neither are all the o rings needed to fit a cylinder head.
  2. TD5 fuel pressure regulator filter and o ring

    Thanks, I think i have sourced a good used filter.....nearly £100 from LR! must be made of platinum. Even pattern items are £70...........
  3. This follows on from my cylinder head replacement posts. It is all going back together and doing other jobs along the way. The head gasket kit seemed not to include an o ring which fits over the fuel pressure regulator filter and also the filter/strainer is missing on my car. Is the filter obtainable and also the o ring is this a standard size does anybody know...I don't have the old one to measure it. I wonder if the filter was removed for a reason?
  4. TD5 Cylinder Head Advice? its off!!

    Thanks, on way back together now...have posted a new post re fuel pressure regulator.
  5. TD5 Cylinder Head Advice? its off!!

    Well I have an AMC head.....proper birthday for the old girl! it looks virtually new and in the end was not so much more than doing my own head and that assumed no other issues found on testing etc. So it is due to go back together soon. All 4 glow plugs seem duff...........have people had good experience of bearmach glowplugs?
  6. TD5 Cylinder Head Advice? its off!!

    OK, thats interesting, I did wonder about the valves because they are recessed into the head so what is the problem with a skim. I have haggled a bit on the little used AMC head and think I may go for it. It is a better improved head and having been very lucky and had a little used looking one offered local to me for under half new cost from a reliable source it seems to remove worries of future common problems such as cracks in injector housings etc. I would not have paid the new cost but the difference over machining mine is not so huge and that assumes no other issues came up on mine. Does anybody have comments regarding makes of gasket sets to use (or not!) and anything else I should be aware of on reassembly?
  7. TD5 Cylinder Head Advice? its off!!

    Thanks so far for replies, I tend to agree re checking my head out though down here in south it is all double muddy's up there! a pressure check, reface head , recut valve seats by same as skim and build up valves will be about £280 with VAT in a good shop I know., that is competitve here and better than others who did not seem to know the TD5 head either. I can get a "good" used AMC head for £700 but that is still a big chunk.
  8. The TD5 started pressuring the coolant....still pressured up after days left standing. The only obvious explanation was the head/head gasket and it did overheat in the summer following a corroded metal coolant manifold and sudden water loss which likely aggravated it. No other signs, water in oil, oil in water etc. The head is off and it seems evident where cylinders have blown into waterways. I have lots of conflicting advice. One big specialist says the heads are rubbish...dont bother check/machine etc and buy one of our new spanish made heads for lots of money which will never fail again and they dont crack, warp etc etc. My usual engineering shop like many has closed but i found one who evidently knows the TD5, immediately saying stories of hardened heads not being capable o0f skimming due to leaving them soft is rubbish and explaining even if it only take a light skim the valves will be cut to the same amount so the valve piston clearance is the same. This all made sense to me and a crack check, reface, valves all cut/.reset etc will run me to near £300 all done. I would welcome what others have done to their cylinder head if it failed. I know they can crack in the injector areas and in the cylinder area but are they so bad you just chuck them out asIi am being told to do without even looking at it? to buy a new one.
  9. Some years ago I replaced the plastic cup that locates the steel ball the gear lever operates on the selectors on our TD5 manual, well I lost 1st and 2nd the other day and today took the top off the gearbox to see the cup has worn right off on the top and the steel ball/clip were rattling about! Great I thought, quite a simple fix, then managed to snap off my bit in the grub screw.....poor bit I suspect but whatever I am a bit stuffed now, can't get it out so grub screw still in place. I managed to winkle out the plastic cup from below and the clip/ball from above. I fear even with rags stuffed in to catch mishaps I dod not have room to insert and press in the assembly made up with a new cup/spring in situ from underneath with my fingers so a problem. If I cant the casting on the selector rod must be taken off to work on bench and the grub screw has a snapped of bit jammed in it so is a permanent fixture! I think again stuffing greasy rags around to catch swarf I could cut the carrier part off the linkage rod using a die grinder, I think! Has anyone done the job in situ or removed the carrier for the cup in this way. I would need to source a new carrier for the cup/steel ball too...........somebody must have a duff gearbox they can take it out of? Thought most welcome...truck stuffed until its done and then its head gasket ;0(
  10. TD5 Discovery air inlet temperature

    Great thanks, do you know if I can test the sensor in any other way other than substitution? As said, constantly says temperature on inlet is too high after each reset so I suspect it may be duff. Thanks
  11. Truck is running great after all the work, new boost gauge is recording 17 maybe 18psi boost which may be high but no ill effects and hawkeye not saying it has over boosted either. However, after clearing all codes after a short run the same fault code always comes up, 3016 air inlet temp hi. I do not think the air inlet temperature is high, it runs fine. Is the sensor part of the one on the air inlet manifold, do they go duff or need a clean? Truck has no EGR by the way...removed years ago and better for it! but always have code the EGR has been stuck open.
  12. Turbo Boost Gauge needle flutter

    Ah, yes sorry Disco 2 TD5. The control "thingy" is actually I think a pressure modulator turbo control, Disco's have them the defender does not for some reason. I tried the match stick and still flickered but better, so decided to gradually crimp the copper pipe end until it settled down nicely...had it working by bending back a kink on the plastic pipe and wrapping a cable tie on to hold it. It slipped but proved it would work. I seem to be getting about 17psi max boost which seems a little high but no ill effect so best left alone I suspect!
  13. Turbo Boost Gauge needle flutter

    Having done various jobs the truck is going really well. I have also fitted a boost gauge whilst at it but the needle flutters wildly to the stop when working hard on the throttle/turbo. If I gently build up I can get it to read nicely. It is taken off the little pipe running from the intercooler hose to the electric vacuum control thingy! I have the supplied plastic hose at the dashboard end and from the Tee piece up to near the ABS pump but then copper brake pipe along the bulkhead...all looks very tidy Does anybody have any tips as to how to dampen the gauge.................my motorbike carb balance gauges have little restrictors on the pipes to stop flutter...Can I buy them and does that do the job?
  14. Sheared exhaust manifold studs/warped manifold

    Thanks for your concern...I find the dremel itself a nice little thing...but rarely use it, the tools are not up to anything but working on toys I feel......I used the demel this time to grind the stud carefully from inside the hole I drilled but of course the stone fell off the tool and I had to get that out the hole too then! haha
  15. wastegate actuator issues?

    whilst doing the exhaust manifold I have been giving the truck a birthday ;0) The wastegate I thought was a bit sticky/could jam so have worked it until it is nice an loose. The actuator unit seems to have a slightly bent rod..is this normal? Is there any way I can check it is ok Finally, was going to pop on a boost gauge I have, is this best Tee'd into the little hose which comes off the intercooler pipe to the modulator or into the hose near the actuator on the turbo?