mat2495
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Posts posted by mat2495
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as its a newly placed engine I would also make sure the boost hose that runs to the fuel injector pump is okay, as it could be that the turbo is working, but not getting fuelling to match
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well these recommendations are good enough for me, and it ticks all of my boxes, looks smart, tough and easy to hose out. The only question now is which colour
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Let me know if you want Drew's contact details.
Andy
That would be great, thanks.
I'm not currently using it as much as I would like, but once I have got it shipshape it might share the commute sometimes. The reason I am considering it at the moment is that I am planning a longer trip with several hundred miles of motorway driving, which is pretty noisy in my poverty spec 90 hard top, so I am looking at all sorts of soundproofing options.
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does anyone know if the kit that exmoor trim sell is the same as the wright off road one? just trying to get an idea on price and wright off roads website doesn't seem to say.
ta
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Fuel feed should be the left carb in the picture, return to the right hand connection I think. Not sure about the distributor, not without knowing the model at any rate, Is it electronic ignition or points do you know?
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might be worth adding alternator/ power steering pump pully bearings to your list. If you take the belts off you should be able to feel any roughness or play in them
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They are available, part number VYR500010 I think they were about a fiver each last time I looked, M8 threaded bar can be substituted, but make sure you seal where it goes into the door top or water will run down the bar and door bottom behind the trim
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no problem, i used the normal door spacers, just doubled up, although i'm sure some could easily be made up out of slightly thicker plastic if you wanted
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you are right, they do foul the door capping, I worked around this by using two of the plastic spacers on both sides of the upper hinge. This just allowed the hinge to clear the capping, without affecting how the door fitted the gap.
for what its worth the td5 type have been a great improvement, no rusty water running out of them yet, unlike all of the early type I have ever fitted
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Superb, thanks again
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thanks western, that should mean I don't need the white/purple with the new electronic ignition.
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What is the white with purple trace wire to the coil for? its an 1984 110 3.5v8, the wire terminates with two female spades and i can't see what they should connect to.
I am in the process of replacing the distributor with a 35DLM8, so is it a remnant of the previous ballasted system?
There is also a plain white which should be the ignition switched 12v feed to the coil correct?
Thanks, Matt
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Out of interest which brand of oil filter did you use? It may be completely unrelated but I remember reading about lower quality oil filters delaying the build up to full working pressure, think it was on MG's though.
Have you double checked that none of the bleed nipples are loosing a bit of fluid? I found the brake warning light to be quite sensitive
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If there is no play in the bush you may find that either the bolt has worn, or the mounting hole has enlarged or oval-ed slightly, which can be repaired by welding a washer of the correct size onto the bracket. It should be easy enough to see the play from underneath if you get someone to rock the steering wheel gently.
Matt
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I wouldn't for the exact same reasons as you, I enjoy building them almost as much as driving them, and it means I end up with exactly what I want.
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Plenty to mull over there, it seems there is a few options, now i've just got to see what the budget will allow for.
101 sean, could you have a look at the pins you used on the 101 at some point please? no need to rush as I'm not in any sort of hurry to spend christmas under the bonnet!
Thanks all
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How can I tell if it had DM8? I don't want to refit points but its a matter of time and budget to be honest, and it would most likely be a short term measure anyway as the plan is to fit an efi eventually.
Are there any parts books showing the various set ups that were fitted around this age so i could pick a system and order up a list of parts?
thanks, Matt
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A friend of mine has a 1984 110 v8, 3.5 on carbs, very original. It was fitted with a lumenition kit by the previous owner which has recently died. Can somebody give us a rundown of the new part required to take it back to standard? presumably points, but what else? i'm not too familiar with these systems as you can probably tell!
Thanks, Matt
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How close is it looking to be on yours? I think my exhaust comes within an inch or there abouts of the footwell, and it hasn't caused any problems other than melting the insulation that the previous owner put on it.
Matt
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If you have a multi-meter test for voltage at the 3 pin plug connected to the blower motor, alternatively you can use a test bulb. This will tell you if the problem is at the motor or somewhere before it. From personal experience i would suggest checking the fuse as well.
Someone who knows how to test the switch should be along soon
Matt
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I used sparex agricolour for mine, fine for rolling and brushing, a supplier shouldn't be too hard to find
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with the engine running see if there is a build up of pressure at the rocker breather or dipstick tube, which should confirm or rule out crankcase pressure.
Presumably the seal lands are in good condition?
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looks a bit like one of the super swamper designs, with the inset on every other shoulder lug
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I used an enamel paint for mine, which I think was synthetic, applied it with a mixture of foam rollers and brushes. I would say the finish was perfectly suited to a land rover, It certainly looks better than it did before anyway! I've just finished doing a 110 csw the same way, so if there are any questions I can help with then ask away
Matt
Fuel gauge 'issues'
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Evening all,
The fuel gauge in my 1989 90" is refusing to play ball, as soon as the ignition is turned on it creeps up to just under full.
It has a brand new sender, which appears to work (resistance from terminal to ground varies from about 50 to 350 ohms as the float moves up and down), I have tried 3 different gauges (one temperature gauge that i know works), and the old sender for good measure. The earth connection to the back of the gauge is good, less than one gnome measured to the battery negative terminal, same goes for the sender.
I have run a new cable between the two as well, to eliminate the possibility of it being a broken of shorted cable.
Does anyone have any ideas before i set fire to the thing? Is there an easy way to test the gauge other than earthing the out terminal? (fuel gauge shoots up to full)
Does anyone know what the resistance between the terminals on the gauge should be?
Please and thank you
Matt