mat2495

Excellent news! You'd best get on to that then

Glad you are making some progress! I have slightly been to the pub tonight, so take this with a pinch of salt...I think when the hazard switch is off, and the ignition is on, the light green (no trace) at the flasher relay should have 12v on it. This connection is made in the hazard switch itself I think. With the hazards off and the ignition on, can you check to see if the light green at the switch has 12v on it? This should then give you 12v on the light green at the flasher relay with the hazards off, ignition on position. If you have 12v at the switch but not the relay then I guess you are hunting down a broken wire, but in my experience the replacement hazard switches are not very reliable.. Yes I believe so! just measure to make sure that there isn't 12v on the hazard switch end of the wire

If the hazard lights work, but the indicators don't work off of the column switch, I would suspect the hazard switch is faulty. Sounds counter-intuitive I know! If the 110 has been laid up for a while I'd pop the back off of the hazard switch and make sure all the contacts are clean etc. or just replace it if you prefer Edit: details on why this stops the indicators working from the tech archive here

I seem to remember struggling with this as well, I think my solution was to use these https://www.autosparks.co.uk/lucas-rubber-grommet-hole-size-1-3-8-bore-size-1-2 1.3/8" is closer to 35mm, but I was pretty happy with the fit if I remember correctly

I hadn't thought of that actually! could be a good shout Well if you want it, you can have it! No idea what the postage would be, but I did send some bits to a chap in Eastern USA, and thought it was surprisingly reasonable.

This is quite a timely thread for me as I am having a sort out prior to a scrap run, and I do find myself feeling guilty about some of the parts that are on the go pile at the moment. Mostly the castings, as they aren't generally available new, but on the other hand I am never going to need any of the discovery spec parts, and no one else seemed interested in them 🤷‍♂️. With unlimited storage space I'd probably keep most of it, but that's a luxury I don't have! Trying to be sensible I have kept a cylinder head, a set of good injectors etc, but am umm-ing and arr-ing over flywheels, ladder frames etc etc. All available from turners right now, but given both of my 200's have had a rebuild in the last 18 months or so, I am hoping to not need to look at them again for 10-20 years, and a lot could change in that time. Always interesting to see if I am on the same track as everyone else

Hi Simon, If you wouldn't mind having a quick look that would be great, thanks. That's good to know, I can live with a bit of fettling if that is what is required. Thanks!

Probably should have thought of that! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224432770863 These ones are for the later door type, but the same sort of thing. No idea who makes them but they seem to be available through britpart among others, so most of the usual suspects seem to list them. Actually i need something for the back door as well.. Edit: Found the right type for my doors at Craddocks https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/mtc8706-front-door-trim-rh-black-non-genuine-upto-1987.html

Hi all, Has anyone fitted any of the replacement ABS door cards? I have a set of lift handle doors with winding windows, and the cards are pretty tatty, was just wondering if anyone had some real world views on what they are like before I fork out for them! Alternatively, if anyone has a genuine set in good nick they would be happy to part with, I'd be keen to hear from them! Matt

Unfortunately I put my wings back together yesterday, and they aren't coming back apart now the paint is on, but I can tell you they are definitely not 16kg, more like 2kg if I had to estimate, sorry I can't be more precise!

No problem. I'm sure I've seen a few other docs floating around somewhere, if I find them I will let you know! They are decent bits of kit (in my opinion), a bit slow for recreational use but they really will pull all day, and nicely made too I think.

H14 Fitting instruction.pdf I don't know if either of these are any help to you, but back when superwinch were still trading in Tavistock I found a lot of the part numbers lined up with my winch, and were still available, some at surprisingly sensible prices! The fitting doc is aimed at the PTO driven version, but might be useful to someone. Superwinch parts list.pdf

Ahh okay, that may be too much. I only had to use 2 per side, instead of the standard 1.

I think I just doubled up the plastic spacers on both sides of the hinge when I had the issue with the newer type fouling on the galvanised door capping. It doesn't take much to make them clear on the early 90/110 doors, though I'm not sure if the capping on a series 3 door is the same thickness.

With the rebuilt injector pump it is running like it should, it's clocked 8,000 miles since with nothing to report really, so I can't complain!

This is a timely reminder of a few more issues I found on my second Shielder bulkhead. 1 - Bit niggley, but the area that the windscreen hinges bolt to is a little thinner than on the original, such that the bolts I had (presumably orignals) bottomed out in the hinge, they just needed to be 5 mm shorter. Knocking the tang off of the helicoils in the hinge might also have fixed it by itself. 2 - The pins that are supposed to go through the seal beneath the windscreen frame and then into holes int he frame itself, didn't line up properly. Rather than disturb the galvanising I extended the holes in the bottom of the windscreen frame slightly. Didn't have this issue on the first bulkhead I fitted I will finally be fitting doors and dashboard to the second one soon, which should find any remaining issues

If it makes you feel any better I had a new drivers door from them about 2 years ago, and it was spot on, after they sent me the right one. I need a passenger side equivalent now, so hopefully my luck will hold

I was running my 90 on a set of XZLs in that size, but they have all started cracking in the sidewalls, shame, as the tread is nearly like new on them. Like you I can't find any more that aren't in similar condition, so I'm looking for another set of 255's now. The one thing I would say against them is that the XZLs were far noisier than the 255/85 BFG muds I have on the other one

I've just changed the front output bearing on mine, as I thought the old one had a bit too much play in it...the new one has even more! and no, It didn't come in a blue box. If I could be bothered I would swap them back, but it's in there now.

Sorry Charlie, I forgot I had promised to add some pictures to this thread I think the overall build of them is pretty tidy. There are a few places where the texture of the galvanising shows through the paint, but that's a small price to pay I think, and can be addressed with care on the A pillars and top corners where it is on display. I haven't had to do anything to it that compromises the galv to make it fit so far either, though my second build is not yet finished. There was a fair bit of basic work to do to it though. cleaning out all of the round holes, and fitting rivnuts etc was fairly quick, but it took probably a couple of hours for me to file all the excess zinc out of the square holes that take all the plastic captive nuts for the dashboard and transmission tunnel. A sharp set of needle files would have helped. I will try to get some photo's of it as it stands tomorrow, just so you can see which bits I have and haven't fitted to it.

On the topic of worn guides, is it something of a known issue on a 200tdi? I've stripped down three in the last 12 months, none of which had done high mileage, and the valve guides were badly worn out on all of them.

I've just done two shielder bulkhead swaps, and while there was certainly some faff involved, I don't have any horror stories to share. Due to the way they construct them though there are a few things that can't go back on quite the same way they came off. Silly things like the mesh screens behind the vents, which are riveted on the original, are now bonded on to mine as the mounting face is flat instead of contoured. Also the top bar that the wiper spindles go through is thinner, so I made up a couple of spacers for them, just things like that. The biggest issue I had was that the top end of mine had some warp to it, whether from the welding, or the galvanising I don't know. I straightened that up though with a chain bolted between the windscreen mounts and a bottle jack, so no harm done. I've got some pictures somewhere I can post up if you like.

If you stick with your planned order of operations, I would test the etch primer on a bit of seam sealer, just on some scrap or something. I only mention it as the last time I did something similar the seam sealer didn't like it very much, and the whole lot stayed kind of tacky. Not sure what sealer that was however, as it was on something I bought. As for a specific seam sealer I've been using a Tetrosyl brushable one, pretty happy with it so far, but its only 6 months to a year old.

Thanks for the update Maverik, I've been having a few similar issues with mine, so I know what I will be checking this weekend!

I fed mine through in the end for the 90, as the chassis loom seems to be the same whether it is on a 90 or a 110, and I wasn't happy with how much spare I had to hide somewhere. I used fencing wire, fed from the front, with a hook shape on the front end about 1" across to smooth it over the rougher bits. The only section I had a problem with was the reinforcing plates around the gearbox cross-member mounting holes. Turns out the pull wire will go under the crush plates, but the connector on the wiring loom would not...got a bit grumpy at that point, but got there in the end. on the 110 I just put it in some convoluted tubing, and clipped to the top of the chassis rail.