[Fuel saving device ( home made), well could be!]

I know this doesn't help and I'm sorry, but.

If you are concerned about fuel economy, wouldn't not driving a 4,500lb vehicle with the aerodynamics of a brick be the simplest way? I'm not saying that saving fuel is bad, I do simple stuff, like moderate my acceleration; but a big, heavy, boxy, all time 4x4, and fuel economy just don't go together, that's just the way it is. If you are resorting to extremes such as a fuel shutoff while you're still driving then you need to reconsider your vehicle of choice.

That's like driving a tank and complaining that it's heavy.

For the sake of tinkering and entertainment, certainly. For any sort of practical application, it's a little loony/dangerous/irresponsible.

[Heavy Smoking]

It doesn't do to leave a diesel idling for a long time. It glazes the bores, so I am told.

I don't know about the differences between big semi-trailer engines and smaller diesels but I've got a few friends who drive them for a living and will let them idle while they're sleeping, 8 hours or so, to run the A/C etc. Seems to be a common practice, sometimes the trucks go days without being shut off. I'll ask if there is suppose to be a negative effect but I would doubt it as they do a million miles or more.

[Vent Rubbers?]

I've used a version of silicone (made for roofing on houses) on the roof to windscreen and windscreen to bulkhead seals. Works great, I don't get wet anymore. Cleans up to look pretty sharp too.

[Air Filter 2.5L Diesel]

This is what I was able to find. The paper filter and the oil bath. It seems I have to whole paper housing, the tub for the oil and an oil element.

[Air Filter 2.5L Diesel]

Cheers Western. It also seems from what I could dig up, that the bottom and top are meant for each other with a paper filter. Then the Middle has a different top and bottom, although the current top does indeed "work." At some point I think it was meddled with, or maybe it's another military design quirk. I apologize for posting without looking a little harder first.

[Air Filter 2.5L Diesel]

I may have figured out why my air filter was a bit high. What is the middle part? The bottom has a drain with a rubber cap that is split and the center is just a bowl with a circular baffle and "maximum oil level" stamped inside it. I estimate removing the center would drop the filter 3 or 4 inches. Could it be from a different vehicle? Can anyone enlighten me?

[Dashboard fuse keeps popping]

I was under the impression that the amp rate listed on the fuse cover was the "constant" amperage and the proper fuse should be double that? However all of mine match except the .5 ones, which are .5 over, with none blown, I just remember reading that info somewhere; also when I changed all of the fuses and cleaned the contacts ( I was having issues ) I pulled out a couple really old fuses (with ink on the glass and little bits of paper inside with amp ratings on them) and I remember at least one saying something like "10 amp constant / 20 amp fuse."

[Cheapskate NAS lamp units]

I really like the military lamps, they seem fairly rugged and ever so easy to change a bulb.

[Pics required]

Hope these help. Let me know of you need more photos. Are you just drilling a hole or fabricating the handle cutout as well?

The first has some measurements then there is a unmolested image. Then an inside image

Center of the lock hole is 3.5 inches from the bottom of the handle cutout and 0.8 inches from the handle cutout at the 3.5 inch level.

Cheers

[Speedometer Question]

Thank you for the info. My measurements are the same, I guess it is somehow a couple inches taller....?! I think I'll just replace it with a K&N Apollo. I'll post some pics. Might also help if I ever install a snorkel.

I moved the hose to the blanked off nipple you'll find on the intake manifold. Works fine as long as the engine isn't completely worn out.

I do get a good bit of blow by, not sure it it's normal for a diesel though. I'll get someone to help and be ready to disconnect it if it runs away with it's self.

Cheers

On a side note, it does bathe in oil, I had to fit that odd bit you can see and the smallest size was 3", the bonnet holds it down when running but the oil that collects inside the hose trickles down onto the filter.

[Bilstein or OME?]

Also what are some good sources for OME shocks and springs?

[Speedometer Question]

Thanks for the pics and info.

Our housings look identical, maybe my mounts are somehow higher to accommodate the steering box (wrong side drive) although the mounts don't look meddled with. It use to have the same intake hose as well, you can still see whats left of it, but the bonnet was wearing a hole in the 90 degree angle, so I had to cut the hose and fit a "low profile" 90 degree fitting, which still rubs but the rubber is very very hard, so it seems to be "ok." Would still like to get it right though. I fitted a filter not unlike the one in the photo, works good but it sounds like I'm driving with a jake brake, looking froward to getting this lot sorted. Where does your breather connect by the way? Mine goes into the intake before the filter. Could you take a measure from the frame to the bottom of the filter housing?

Cheers

[Oil Bath Air Filter]

What are some manufacturers model numbers for the 2.5L N/A oil bath air filter? I'd like to get it locally is why I ask.

Cheers

[Speedometer Question]

Sending this one back to the top and combining with another quick question; no need for another topic.

The oil bath air filter comes so close to the bonnet that any hose, including a low profile one I retro fitted, rubs against the bonnet. I don't know how it's suppose to be set up. It is on the left and about a half inch above the steering linkage and box. So I can't lower the mounts any. There is room on the right side but I don't know about running a hose over and across the fan cowl, and it seems as though it would be just as high. Does anyone have a photo of a 2.5L N/A diesel for comparison? Also does anyone see a problem fitting a filter directly on the inlet manifold so I can remove the oil bath filter and see what can be done about the clearance? Maybe for a month or there abouts.

[Lightening a defenders steering]

[Extended arches and wheel spacers]

I'm guessing I'll need roughly a 40-50mm addition to the track (per side) to keep the edge of the tyre in line with the edge of the arch.

Not my forte, but isn't the point of wider wheel arches so tyres can tuck up under them during axle articulation without touching? As with regular arches the tyre would crush them. And wheel spacers are used to keep wide tyres off the wheel well while turning? So no rubbing on full turn = no need for wheel spacers?

[Speedometer Question]

My speedo cable broke at the plastic piece that connects to the back of the gauge. As some of you know I have RHD to LHD converted 110. Any how, it's a one piece cable and I'm wondering if I should replace it with the RHD (PRC6022) or LHD (PRC6021). The gauge (and I assume the broken cable) is the same one from when it was RHD but now it's on the left, what is the diffrence between the two?

Just an example of crazy prices in the US; 7.5 and 8.5 GBP at Paddock, so about 15 to 20 USD, over here they want $70 something for one and $80 something for the other one.

Cheers

(By the way, I read a bit about using a Td5 speedo but I got lost in the random comments and technical jargon. If it's fairly simple and not too expensive I'd be willing to give it a go.)

[clutch dragging]

I had a similar issue, although not as severe. It settled out after three or four days, weather it was primarily the clutch plate or spigot bearing I still do not know.

It was very bad for about a day, tolerable the next but still disconcerting, and finally "good enough," and now totally gone. I think the master cylinder adjustment also played a role however.

[exhaust options]

Whew, thats some impressive/tedious welding Jacks.

Out of curiosity, I'm thinking of replacing mine as well, on a 110 2.5L N/A I'd like to leave out the muffler and just have a resonator on the end. Will it be significantly louder? Not that the noise from the engine will likely drown it out anyway

[Torque, Horsepower, and RPM]

Thanks everyone for the explanations, it all helped out a bit.

The 'perfect' engine would be one with peak torque at low rpm with a power figure at a high rpm which corresponds to a very similar torque figure.

I've heard that electric motors provide 100% torque, 100% of the time. (or at least so near it, it might as well be)

Will be interesting when engines become generators and drive trains disappear.

[Torque, Horsepower, and RPM]

Trying to understand a bit more about engines and the like and found myself in a conundrum.

"Why is it that the relationship between Torque, Horsepower, and RPMs isn't linear, in engine terms?"

Allow me to explain.

Torque x Engine Speed / (arbitrary number) = "Horsepower" or Force x Speed = Work

So if you increase torque at a given rpm, horsepower increases; and if you increase rpm at a given torque, horsepower increases.

So why is it that and engine spinning at say 5,000rpm might produce less torque (and or horsepower) than that very same engine spinning at say 2,500rpm?

I would think that all the bits are going twice as fast and therefore have twice as much inertia, so certainly it should produce more torque (if not twice as much); in a direct relationship to RPMs. But I'm wrong, and don't know why.

Does it have something to do with the compression ratio and combustion rate of the fuel? In which maximum torque would be where the fuel burns completely just as the piston reaches the lowest point of its stroke?

( I apologize that it isn't Land Rover/Defender oriented but I thought someone might be able to enlighten me. )

[Clutch won’t disengage.]

No consolation i know, but thats why many of us refer to Britpart as Sh--part. I am sure they they must supply something thats okay just never found it yet.

Regards

Keith

Yeah... I took the warnings too lightly, I guess I had to learn the hard way.

[Strange whining noise.....]

I had a similar issue. It still isn't fully resolved but I'm starting to think it is the master cylinder; which is resulting in not fully engaging the clutch allowing it to slip. It has been worse on rainy days it seems (maybe the moisture in the air) but I understand you have a lot of those in England . I have two posts. The first is my attempt to fix it and the second is my original post about the noise.

I've known thrust bearings to produce a similar noise before going kaput, mine however was in very good shape when it was replaced.

Here

and

Here

Hope this helps

[Clutch won’t disengage.]

Update of sorts.

I adjusted the pedal as per Western's far superior schematic image, and when I depressed the pedal the master cylinder froze. After a very impolite word or two out it came for an inspection. What I found is (forgive my lack of technical vocabulary) when the cylinder innards were nearly fully compressed the spring would hang up on the furthest bit from the push rod and turn it sideways (not much, but about 10 degrees). Not only that but when fully compressed it would make a click and lock that way until it received a hearty thump. And who made this master cylinder you might ask? Britpart no less. Nothing like replacing a bad part with a new, already broken part. Any how, a OEM part is now making it's way to me and hopefully will solve the problem.

On a second note, to keep her on the road (as it is my only vehicle) I refitted the old leaky master cylinder and the squeaking/slipping (See here) came back. So while the old clutch was quite warn, it appears that the culprit all along was the master cylinder.

Thank you all for your help. If I can get back on the lift I will check the spigot bush for wear and apply some more lubricant. I'll let you know when it's all patched up.

[Clutch won’t disengage.]

We put the new one in the same way as the old one which was labeled with one side as "flywheel side." The spring protrusion was facing the gearbox.

After playing with the pedal some more, the clutch it's still barley catching but can now be shifted into reverse. I would guess that the gears are making one revolution every one or two seconds. I'll drive it around for a day or two and see if it just needs a break in. We weren’t able to put the flywheel on a lathe so that might be contributing a little.