alfaman
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Posts posted by alfaman
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Spill pipes are fine, replaced the whole lot a year ago and did them again the other week, pipes perished. This has been an ongoing issue for the past few years, just been liv'n with it.
Yep, filter O rings are there and new, again.
???????
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I have a question for the experts out there.
Does anyone know as to why I have to keep on bleeding the fuel filter every couple of weeks or so?
Each time I use the lift pump to check for air in the filter, and keep it primed, I always have to spend a few minuites flicking the lever to remove the air that is in the filter.
Is this normal? Or should the filter be full at all times?
The car runs fine, even if I forget to do it for a while. It is a 200Tdi engine.
There are no obvious leaks anywhere, or any indications of wetness around pipes, etc.
Any clues, please.
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Hi Jason,
Having followed your last trailier build, I'm in the process of building mine.
I'm using the same Sankey MK3 trailer, other than extending the front by a bit, nothing else is done to it except a bit of TLC. Frame work is 20mm steel box and cladded with 1.2mm Ali sheet.
I've taken my ideas from these folks. Maybe some inspiration/ideas could be gleaned from there.
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It looks to me as if they have sent the wrong one, as the order details say "200TDi (S027-1-DP1012)", and yours says "DP1029".
Got an answer back yesterday, from Difflock:
"Please accept my apologies you have been sent DP1029 in error. Could we ask that you kindly return this part to us and we will send you the correct DP1012 in replacement.
Once again sorry for the confusion that this has caused."
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Hi Keith
Mine is 1991 too but is RHD 200Tdi but cannot imagine that makes a difference. I bought the Difflock drainplug back in 2007 for similar reasons. At the time the Difflock reference was DRAI007. Fitted without any bother and has been a godsend!
Is it possible they supplied the wrong one - it does happen. This is what is said on my confirmation email - remember it was 4/12/2007 though!!
1 x Land Rover 90, 110, 130 Defender Drainplug - DRAINDEF1
Options Selected - Land Rover Drainplugs: 200Tdi (DRAI007)
Tax 17.50%
Price Per Item - £16.98
Total Without Tax - £16.98
Total Including Tax - £19.95
Maybe they have, waiting for them to get back to me, probably Monday.
Just for reference, this is the order details from the other day.
1 x Defender 90, 110, 130 Drainplug -
Options Selected - Land Rover Drainplugs: 200TDi (S027-1-DP1012)
Tax 17.50%
Price Per Item - £18.18
Total Without Tax - £18.18
Total Including Tax - £21.36
The bit that turned up has DP1029 on the side of the tub it came in.
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Hi,
I've decided to get one of those easy to use drain plugs as sold by Difflock.com after a couple of oil spills. Unfortunately what is supposed to be the one for my engine, is not the right size. Before I go and start ranting and raving I need to confirm a few things.
The car is a 1991 LHD Defender with a 200TDi engine.
The last time I changed the oil, I used a 30mm spanner on the drain plug and the thread hole was plenty big enough to poke my finger in. The drain plug should be this part number 603659 but for the life of me I have no idea as to what size of thread it is.
Does anyone know if the above drain plug is the correct one for my engine and what thread it's supposed to be?
The drain plug from Difflock, as per their selection for a 200TDi, arrived with a M12x1.25 thread to fit the sump.
Is there a chance that someone has changed the sump?
Regards,
Keith.
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Can anybody please tell me where i can get hold of the door clips, the ones which seem to be fixed into the interior door panel, also can yer tell us how the are fixed onto the panel itself.
I got mine from Craddocks.
From the 'book' Bible;
you need MWC3136 Clip-snap-sack, £0.18, this bit goes into the door,
you need MWC1474 Fastener-fir-tree, £0.12, this bit goes into the door card, (To AA339423)
or you need MXC1800, £0.22, (From AA339424)
As you can see, they don't cost much. I got more than I needed and replaced the dodgy ones whilst I had the cards off. Oh, a few will brake when you take the cards off again, for whatever reason.
They just slot in. On mine they did, your piccy looks different to mine, so can't be sure.
Hope this helps.
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Have you got a friendly garage who can check front and rear on rollers?
Nope, my car was tested the last time on rollers, the MOT tester wasn't alarmed with the readings. Sorry don't know what they were. Made him jump a bit when it came to the hadbrake test - got one of those X-Brake jobbies.
What pads are you using?As far as I can remember, I got them from Craddocks and they were in a Mintex box.
Have you checked that the pistons move sufficiantly on the front callipers?Aside from taking them off and stripping them down, they stop the front wheels when jacked up and tested.
Like the guys suggested to me above, which i will do before replacing the prv, is bridge the pipes, negating the prv. In your case if it is faulty, then I would have thought there would be no change in your braking sinse it sounds like the prv is not reducing the rear pressure at the moment.I'll give it a go.
Just out of interest what are they like braking in reverse, with weight transfer to the rear?To be honest, don't know. I'll give it a try later.
I'll try the tests with and without the PRV.
Thanks.
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are the breather pipes clear & not kinked.
Erm, if your referring to the ones on the block? The breather has been changed and the pipes.
If not, those have been changed too.
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mine gets wet on the outer body panel filler recess ith a full tank, try bending the cap lugs so it grips tighter.
are the rubber pipe jubilee clips tight?
Tried that, no change and changed it.
All are tight and they've all been replaced with new ones.
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... a 3 position toggle/rocker that has a centre off position & a single 12v voltmeter, ... .
I used a relay instead of a 3 pos'n switch. When engine is running, it displays the Main battery. Flicking the switch shows the AUX battery via relay. If I forget to switch back
, I aint draining the Main.Keith.
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Hi,
I'm asking this on behalf of a mate of mine.
The side of his Landy is wet around the filler area, mostly noticeable when the tank is full.
Any ideas?
We've changed the filler cap twice (1st didn't seal properly
). He's changed the diaphragm on the fuel pump (previous advice from another Landy owner). All the pipework has been checked and double checked, all the filler pipework to the tank has been replaced.Stumped!
Keith.
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Hi,
I've got a similarly related problem, but the opposite way round. It's not failed the MOT test though, but it almost caught me out once.
Whilst driving in the wet I notice it most,I can lock the rear wheels up, not so easy in the dry, but I can do it.
A change of the rear shoes hasn't cured it. Front pads have more than half of the meat on em.
Too hard pads?
Sticky Callipers?
Faulty PRV?
Any ideas?
Cheers,
Keith.
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or 2 x VDO 12v voltmeters.
How 'bout 1 Gauge with a switch?
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I don't s'pose leds are quite there yet for light output.
Not sure but I think so, have a look at these. Not got any yet, but will, soon.
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Thanks to you all,
My mate says he'll be definitely changing the filter this weekend.
I keep in mind the tricks, if I ever come across this again, hopefully not me personally.
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They are fine in the UK, perfectly legal.
I know, that's why I fitted them. I thought that if it's OK in UK it should be OK everywhere else.
If only I can find some evidence to say it's OK, EU rules that is, the Spaniards love their paperwork.
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The rules for new vehicles on additional obligatory tail and stop lights are changing, either from Europe or the UK, to stop people adding extra high-level tail lights, even from new. I'd check that the rules are retrospective, and that they are applied in your country. (I appreciate that's not much help)
It is helpful, problem is I can't find any official rules, etc. Other than the last place I went to, said take em off. Any ideas as to where to look?
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Did they say what the problem was, or why you had to remove the high level lights?? Personally id put them back til next year then whip them off for the test!
Apparently because they are not originally fitted, you can't have them.
Unfortunately, doing the year thing is not an option. Some reason my 90 is registered as a Commercial Vehicle and as such it has to have a 6 monthly MOT.
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Hi all,
A few weeks ago I had my 90 ITV'd (Spanish version of the MOT) and was told to remove the rear LED's, indicators and brake/tail lights. I've fitted those after market ones you see popping up here and there, which are the same size as the original ones.
I know the Spanish do have peculiar rules, but I was wandering if these new type of bulbs are legally allowed in UK, or not.
Also does anyone know of any new/old EU directive that says if you can or cannot fit these into original standard light units?
Keith.
Also I had to remove the high-level lights which have been there for the last 2 years.
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what the halogen bulbs in plastic ducting?
;)Yep, precisely that they are, up front. 35W max or the plastic gets a bit soft
LED's used on the back.
You can get 35W Halogens that give the light output of a 50W, think Phillips make them.
Started as a test, trial, mock-up idea I had after seeing the X-Eng ones, I don't have a roll cage.
Oh, they do work very well, 4 point forward and 2 point out @ 45°, perfect for spotting what the next potential road-side menu is going to be, or not.
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up to your pal when he swaps the filter, sooner would be better for the injection pump & injectors.
I'll let him know tomorrow, he'll probably do it on the weekend. I'll tell him to do it on the weekend that way enough Diesel has past through to catch whatever bits have been dislodged from the fopar.
Thanks,
Keith.
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as the tank has been drained & filter replaced & you've got as much out as practicable, it should be fine, might be worth changing the filter again after it's run for a while on the correct fuel.
As it happens he does have a new one ready to go in, not found the time to do it before, I'll let him know to hold off for a while before changing it. Any idea as to how long would be long enough, he is one of those cautious type of blokes.
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Install ideas 4 ya.
I've mounted my antenna up on the rack - top right. Ground Plane is done via the rack - centre left. CB is also up there.
, I aint draining the Main.
). He's changed the diaphragm on the fuel pump (previous advice from another Landy owner). All the pipework has been checked and double checked, all the filler pipework to the tank has been replaced.
;)
Air in diesel fuel filter
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I've tried that, but, no fuel comes out. I suppose the lift pump is not working as it should?
Engine running and cracking the connections to the injectors, fuel comes out fine.