GL88

Fair point on the wading but here in the UK a torrential downpour will pretty effectively drench the engine, especially when driving fast through standing water on a dual carriageway. Maybe not such an issue in SA! Soldering was my first thought. In theory it should make a multicore wire much more resistant to oil flowing through the gaps between the bundle of wires inside the insulation sheath. One possible downside is that soldered connections are less resistant to vibration fatigue (and thus fracture) than crimped ones but not sure how much of an issue that is inside the cam box where the wires should not be flapping around anyway. I'm picking up my new injector harness later and will try to see if it is obvious how Landrover have oil proofed it.

Thanks for the help. Question for Jim, I've read elsewhere about this approach of giving the oil somewhere else to go by damaging the seal. I can see how that would work, do you just put a groove in it? And how do you keep water out from enthusiastic wading, etc?

I've got an oily red plug at the ECU on my (49,000 mile) 2000 TD5. So far no other symptoms have appeared but I'd like to get on with fixing it now. The Land Rover technical bulletin here says change the injector harness and the engine loom. But can anyone tell me whether changing the engine loom is really necessary or will I be ok with doing just the injector harness? Judging by the time estimate in the bulletin the harness is quite quick and that must be where the oil is getting into the wires. So once the source of the oil is removed at one end it should stop coming out of the other end sooner or later. I can see why they'd want to do the full job for customers but I can make a point of checking at the other end on a weekly basis and mopping up anything I find there so it feels like that should be enough. Cheers, Guy.