GL88

I used to work in the 1980s in a workshop that had a variant on this. We used the recovered compressor from a commercial cold room and the biggest propane tank we could find as the receiver (it was about 1.5m high) together with commercial oil and vapour traps. The extra capacity of the bigger compressor made it a practical proposition and still near silent.

Barton & Sons in Luton (you will find their details through Google or let me know if you can't track them down). They've done some stuff for me and I've also seen work in progress. It is a tiny operation so you'll need to book the work in advance but they are superb craftsmen.

"Now class, today in PE we will be learning to do a head stand."

The steps are manufactured by Breed Group in Luton. Google will find them and they sell stuff direct if you ask them nicely.

I read that if you remove the exhaust manifold casting webs that are between the branches that cures the tendency to crack. Is that right?

Britpart do a kit but I don't know how much: http://www.britpart.com/Accessory.asp?Page...ccessoryRef=517

They are deeply unattractive and don't look especially secure. How about these http://www.garrisonlocks.co.uk/deadlocks_for_vans.htm

According to the instructions with my Land Rover chains (actually re-branded Rud-matics) the answer is front.

Our local Council (Hertfordshire) ran out of salt earlier this week. Now we've had another three inches of snow overnight onto roads that were already marginal. In 30 years driving I have never known the roads as slippery. It is that wet snow that compacts to a fairly hard packed lethally wet dense layer with snow on top. And with no salt even the main roads are affected. The inevitable result is total chaos where I live (Harpenden) and even in the Defender it takes care not to spin on tight turns at 5mph. Normal cars can't get up the mildest hills and I saw one new BMW repeatedly step sideways into a railing each time the driver tried to move away from the side of the road. Even walking is difficult. So if you fancy a spot of towing you know where to head, but take care and you'll probably need a shovel!

So this question is really 'how can I get my engine to warm up faster'. Not clear if it relates to TDi or TD5 but having driven my TD5 for over an hour yesterday and still barely tepid I have considerable sympathy. First stop for me will be a new thermostat because I suspect that the bypass hole in mine is too large. The alternative is to thrash it from cold which I'll leave to others.

Sounds like it may be one of the relays then. Not unheard of by the sounds of things: http://www.web-rover.co.uk/nav.php?p=td5kb/intmt_cutout (the link to the 'addict' forum has moved so you'll have to hunt around over there)

They still do - http://www.ultraleds.co.uk/complete-flashe...tors-p-978.html Not sure if it is compatible with the Land Rover pins, etc, but if not then some cross over leads should sort it out.

Yesterday I had some time to explore further. If it is the sensors then crossing the plugs over should move the high reading to the other wheel - but it doesn't it remains the left rear. Moreover neither the dashboard lights nor the Nanocom show a fault. On turning on the ABS light comes on, goes out, comes on again and only finally goes out once I've driven over 5mph (all as per the book). The TC light comes on and goes out once started. TC kicks in if I'm lead footed and the light comes on then. ABS works if a wheel locks. The only thing I can't check is whether the TC or ABS work on the left rear wheel. In the recent ice would have been the ideal time to check but I didn't have the time. I'll look out for a strip of wet grass 1 by 2 metres in the road. For now I'm assuming that this is a Nanocom artifact. The only alternative seems to be the ABS ECU. I've found various similar faults on other forums (seems that the Disco 1 ABS was the same as the Defender) but no answers so I am still looking.

I'd check the consumption on the TD5 you borrowed. My records for the last 4000 miles show an average of 28mpg and over half of that has been on motorways rarely going under 70. I've noticed much worse mileage in the recent cold weather but still never below 25.5mpg and my sat nav says the last 650 miles have been at an average speed of 49mph. Depending on your use and how restrained you can persuade your right foot to be you should be able to keep the consumption over 28 and I've achieved over 30 on smaller A roads.

Please post results, Graham. I've just returned from driving 400 miles to Leeds and back (students to return) and no problems apart from the bottom half of the driver's side un-washable over 30 mph. Passenger side works perfectly. I did evolve a technique for continuous washing as I overtook lorries which meant the pressure wave as I passed the front pushed some water further down. And my tentative conclusion is that one fewer wipes would be good but I also need to aim the jet lower on the screen.

I don't understand why my TC light isn't on (or trying to stop the wheel spinning) but the TC works fine (not sure if on all 4 wheels though). I still haven't found the time to get out there and swap them from side to side but at least have the test leads I need now as they have handed plugs so can't just be swapped over.

As others have said use blue nitrile gloves to keep your hands clean (less inclined to split than latex) - it would be an exageration to say it has changed my life but definately a significant improvement. I get mine from Screwfix (branch in Welyn GC nearest you I expect) for £8.80 but a professional car spares outlet will have them too. Only thing to add is that the last box I had from Screwy is thinner than the one before so I've resorted to weaing two pairs.

I've been playing with my new Nanocom so now I've got a whole load of faults to worry about that I never had before. But none has returned since being cleared which has left me bothered by a 'non-fault'. According to the ABS ECU the left hand rear wheel says I'm doing 426 and a bit Kph even when I'm standing still when the others say 1.7 Kph which I assume to be minimum speed that that ABS will work at (else you'd never be able to stop). The Nanocom isn't showing any faults (!) and everything seems to work as it should (obviously it is a little difficult to provoke a locked rear left hand wheel to see but a big stand on the brakes on a wet road pulls up straight with ABS working). I've had the sensor out and all seems fine. And I've separated the plugs to the main wiring loom and WD40'd them but no change so far. Any thoughts? When I've a bit more time I'll swap the plugs round to see if the right rear starts reading fast which will narrow things and I can bung a meter on them both to see if they are different.

The answer turns out to be that the drivers aren't included on the current CD. I emailed Nanocom at 09.20 this morning and got a reply at 9.35 pointing me to the relevant link. Here it is in case it is useful to anyone else: http://web.nanocom.it/download/NanocomDriver.zip Everything now working fine (though I've a million logged faults to chase through the ABS now and have fingers crossed that they are fixable by cleaning contacts and sensors).

Today is the first time since opening it at Christmas that I've had the time to install my new Nanocom on my PC. Only problem seems to be no drivers on the CD - the only folders are "doc" and "firmware" whereas the guide suggest there should be a "drivers" folder too. I'll contact Nanocom but was wondering whether anyone else had found the same problem and solved it because I'd like to have it working now! Alternatively can someone post a link to the drivers download bit of the Nanocom website (which I've failed to find) please? TIA.

The SVX roll cage is made by Breed Group in Luton, you can find them through Google and they will sell stuff direct (though not geard up to really so no credit card payment, etc). They also make quite a lot of other stuff for LR like chequer plate kits (including black G4 stuff), NAS rear tow step and roof racks.

Not sure which one but there is a relay under the seats that seems to be a common culprit for this (as per this old note). http://www.web-rover.co.uk/nav.php?p=td5kb/intmt_cutout

And to add to the replies above - entirely possible that road salt and moisture from road has found its way into the plug or wiring and that there is no water at all in the fuel. The plug for this sensor is brilliantly placed inside the rear wheel arch where it catches anything thrown up off the wheel and the sensor works from trying to pass a current through the diesel.

My 90 CSW has the full height bulkhead behind the front seats. This is well furnished (by Land Rover) with various brackets and rubber band retainers but I've got no idea what any of them are for. This means most stuff just rests on the seat box and rattles around. Standard gear seems to consist of the jack, wheel chock, tool roll and locking wheel nut adapter. Does anyone know what the various brackets were designed to hold?

Worth adding that the weight of the wheel on my CSW rear door cracked the frame but also having done so the flexing caused the seal round the rear window to lose whatever minimal sealing properties it had when new. Result was rain running down the inside of the door with the ineviable consequences for the steel frame. Hopefull now resolved by a Mantec carrier, welding and patching the cracks in the frame and using black silicone mastic to re-fit the window. (And then some Waxoyl for the frame.) Even when the door was poorly and still carried the wheel it never dropped on its hinges. The main symptom was the awful creaking and squeaking as the broken ends of the frame fretted against each other.