pat_pending
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Posts posted by pat_pending
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Indeed, the MTF (75/80) that Land Rover specify for the the R380 wasn't available when the first versions of the 77 came out.
In the same way 0w20, 10w40 or 5w30 oils weren't available when engines were spec'd to run on 20w50, and it would be a bad idea use the modern oils in an older engine.
The clearance's and tolerance's of the internals will have been made to use a particular specification of oil, so even if components look similar between the 77 and the 380 it doesn't follow they are made the same.
Deviating from the manufacturers spec's is probably not a good idea, particularly with a newly rebuilt box under warranty.
Ashcroft still spec ATF for the 77, I'm sure if they found an oil that worked better they'd say so.
I stopped working in Land Rover dealers in the 90s (started in 79) so I've limited experience of rebuilding the R380 or their problems, I have however rebuilt probably a few hundred LT77s a lot of them while still under Land Rover warranty.
I've seen some that were running gear oil, no idea of the spec' but clearly not ATF and in all cases the gear change was worse than with ATF.
Some of those boxes were in a bad way when stripped, often with failure of the fibre pump gears (although this can still happen with ATF).
I saw no evidence that anything was an Improvement over ATF.
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14 hours ago, Stinkfloyd said:
I am thinking about using an MTF 75w 90 as opposed to regular ATF
You will...
void the warranty, have a poor gear change at best and impossible when really cold at worst, risk damaging the fibre oil pump gears and wreck the whole box.
LT77 was designed to run on ATF-Dexron 3.
The drain plug on the side already has a magnet, or should have, change the oil every 12,000 and remove and clean the filter.
The 77 is not a bad box when set up properly, imo most failures are because the box is shimmed too tightly.
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3 hours ago, fmmv said:
Is this a Puma pulley?
Nope.
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We had a Sealey kit that cost a few hundred quid, probably made in China but it worked well.
When you look at a lot of the cheap Chinese "special tools" on ebay they look exactly like the sealey kits.
So, either they come out of the same factory or they're close copies, if you're not going to use it much I'd take a punt the cheapy one.
That said, if you bought the Sykes one you could use it and sell it on.
So much stuff is made in China now, it's often difficult to tell if you're paying a high price for a better product or being ripped off and you could've bought the same thing for far less.
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Drain everything, flush with clean water... Refill with the same A/F in everything.
Job done.
All the time I was working I never saw a problem caused by the wrong A/F, that's not to say it can't cause a problem just I've never seen it in 45 years in garages.
I think the td5 is supposed to use OAT, seen plenty on regular glycol.
The only thing I'd say is if you use basic glycol, change it, and I mean properly flush it, at least every three years.
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Breather set up is normal for an early box along with the dipstick.
Serial numbers are on the rear face of the transfer box, although I have it in my head there are numbers on the top of the box somewhere, I could be wrong though as it's at least 30 years since I worked on one.
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5 hours ago, JeffR said:
APC is an acronym for "All Parcels Crushed".... don't ask, the swear filter will not be able to cope
I suppose I was lucky they never got hold of my parcel then.
Probably because they'd been calling at the wrong address to collect it... Three times!
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It appears it's down to local depots or drivers as APC seem to get mostly decent reviews nationally, however my two local depots get the worst reviews I've ever seen.
My experience of them backs this up.
How can any business do things so badly?
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On 3/3/2024 at 4:31 PM, Northwards said:
But what I hadn’t noticed till now was that the battery light in the dash doesn’t come on at all.
Is telling statement.
Pull the charge light lead out of the alternator and ground it out with the ignition on, engine not running.
The light should come on, if it does you have a fault in the alternator, if it's still not working it's a wiring fault or the bulbs just blown.
And, as with anything electrical, first make sure you have a good earth, stick a jump lead between the battery neg' and the engine.
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Sorry to revive this thread but...
Can I just add "APC overnight" to the list of utterly useless, incompetent, halfwits that make up the shambles that is the courier business.
Never use this bunch of idiots.
There, I feel better now.
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On 2/22/2024 at 5:32 PM, Steve Watson said:
I'm getting Transmission fault traction reduced. Does anyone know why this is please.
There's not much traffic in here unfortunately, but I'll give you some advice.
Without plugging it into a code reader/diagnostic computer, anything anyone says is only going to be a guess.
There's a multitude of reasons for that error message, at least get it scanned and get a fault code.
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I spent 45 years as a mechanic working on cars, trucks and plant.
I was working at a main dealer until last year but with the ever increasing use of electronics I'd had enough and retired! Not because I didn't understand, quite the opposite. I was level 4 EV qualified and a diagnostic specialist, but the job had become so far removed from why I used to enjoy spannering that I'd come to hate it. I love the simplicity and the "agricultural" nature of older Land Rovers, the fact you can modify, adapt and fabricate with some scrap and the bits and pieces that we all have kicking about.
That's what those mad old vehicles being built in the 80s were all about.
I love Land Rovers for many of the reasons others hate them, there's nothing wrong with making things a bit better, but when I read about people trying to overly modernise them, especially with electronics, it makes me wonder why they bought a Land Rover in the first place.
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11 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
This entire thread makes me wish I had a much larger workshop and a much larger bank account, so many brilliantly mad vehicles.
I think the golden age of building/modding road going vehicles is gone, maybe not the off roaders though.
I remember an awful lot of crazy stuff being knocked up in lock up's, sheds, and at the roadside, usually with minimal tools.
A mate built a Range Rover/series hybrid (when they were the in thing) in two abandoned council lock up's, with power from a nearby lamp post, another built a chopper in the spare bedroom of a ground floor flat.
Alas, youth and enthusiasm gone and too many regulations today.
I've just remembered, one of our group had a 109 with a six pot Jag' engine in it that was positively dangerous!
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That's it, brings back memories of the 80s, AWDC, Slab common, Bovi' heavy vehicle trials.
Wasn't there a Moggy minor on a series chassis and running gear as well? Not sure who built it.
10 hours ago, Nonimouse said:I think he is? At least last time I spoke to Robbo, he was. But Robbo has been unwell recently
I suppose we're all knocking on a bit now 😩.
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Car body on a Land Rover chassis? how 1980s!
Is Alvin Smith still around?*
*Those of a certain age will know.
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Worth checking the engine has a GOOD earth back to the battery, stick a jump lead between the Batt neg' and the engine and see if it starts charging.
If that's ok and it's been stood standing for a while it may just be the brushes stuck, easy enough to pop the cover off the back of the alternator and check.
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6mm pneumatic pipe.
At your local hydraulics store or ebay, same as the fittings.
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Without knowing how noisy it is, what's causing the noise or even how far you'd be driving it between now and March, I'd say it was impossible to tell you.
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Five minutes on Google found a wiring diagram and there is indeed a power supply junction box containing both 60 and 40 amp fuses that feed the sub fuse boards and relays.
60amp fuse FE17 blown would be my guess.
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16 hours ago, RobinC said:
I have a problem that is baffling every local contact including two LR specialist garages.
Really?
1 hour ago, elbekko said:Logical first step would be to get the multimeter out and start checking where you have power.
Exactly, because this is fairly straightforward diagnostics.
As elbekko said, has someone tried to jump start it?
There's often a high amp fuse/ fusible link protecting the vehicle, I'm not familiar with the Freelander 2, but 10 minutes with a wiring diagram and any competent mechanic should be getting somewhere.
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I think the scariest thing is that they can machine it from a billet of 7075* and sell it for £11 and make a profit.
*Allegedly.
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Ask the chassis supplier.
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1 hour ago, ThreePointFive said:
It could be interesting in any case. Most of the advice I've seen or read is to go at it with new parts until the clicking stops.
See my last post, sticking a feeler blade between the rocker and the valve while it's running.
57 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:Fraid not, though you can get them, they are only designed for very high revving engines.
As I recall we used to get all our parts from Allmakes, they did the OE aluminium rockers or a pattern part steel rocker which were actually cheaper and had less chance of failure.
We just fitted the all steel ones.
It was a long time ago, but I seem to remember the aluminium ones were handed, the valve pads being offset left or right but the steel ones were not.
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You can't adjust the tappets on a V8, they're hydraulic and if you mean replacing them, then they should be done as a set with the cam, unless you can pinpoint one individual one that's faulty whilst the others are all perfect.
Again, diagnose the problem, don't just throw parts at it.
You can run it with the rocker covers off, one at a time to reduce the oil that's going to get chucked about.
You'll need to stabilise the idle around 1000rpm, then you can go down each rocker and insert a 10 or 15 thou feeler blade between the rocker and valve stem while it's running.
You can then listen for a change in sound at each valve, that should isolate the noise.
Then you can insect that particular rocker/cam lobe/lifter for any problems.
If doing that has no effect on the noise then it's going to be coming from elsewhere.
As I said, I think you need someone experienced with the V8 to listen to it in real life.
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Help !!
in International Forum
Posted
I take it it's for aligninging casings? It's a split dowel sleeve.
You could try an agri' or plant dealers or a machine shop.