pat_pending

Interesting, I've not seen LEDs like that before. What was the cost?

I'd certainly say genuine HID/LED units give a very good throw of light with a sharp, almost too sharp cut off. However I can't remember seeing a converted headlamp that didn't have a "torch" beam. Not saying they don't exist, and I've seen more HID conversions than LED, just that's my experience. It's not the main part of my job, but I still do about 70 MOTs a month so I do see a lot of headlights! HID conversions were very popular a few years ago and they always failed the beam pattern test, quite a few had no main beam either as the single filament HID replaced the twin

There are revisions to the testers manual, the addition of LED bulbs used in halogen headlamps, in addition to the original HID reference is just one. I think they just left LED out of the original text in error, in practice nothing has really changed. As I said earlier, most (all probably) Halogen headlamps converted to use HIDs or LEDs give an incorrect beam pattern, this alone is enough to fail "Beam image obviously incorrect" without the "Light source and lamp not compatible" failure. This does not affect headlamps originally designed to take HIDs or LEDs providing they show

You bought from AliExpress, they'll be made of top grade Chineseium.

Flat beams are acceptable for the MOT. The headlamp needs to have a clear beam pattern with cut off, contained within the upper/lower, left/right limits. All the kick up does is illuminate the nearside kerb, obviously useful but not an MOT requirement. I've seen plenty of LED and HID conversions and some aftermarket LED headlamps that give a "torch" beam. This is clearly going to dazzle oncoming drivers and why a cut off is needed.

Merry Xmas everyone.

Who's checking? MOT isn't concerned with e marking. "Light source and lamp not compatible" really only come into play when a converted headlamps beam pattern is wrong (as they often are on led and HID converted headlamps) and on most headlamps we only check dip beam for pattern anyway.

I never leave the UK so I hadn't realised things were that different! I guess we're lucky here, motor factors are plentiful, I can get most parts delivered within the hour, occasionally later the same day or the following one.

Is Europe really such a barren wasteland that you can't easily get hold of a fairly common transmission oil that's not exclusive to Land Rover? Genuine question as I've never had a problem getting fluids for anything here in the UK.

Makes me feel all nostalgic. It dates from the time I was an apprentice in the late 70s. There were a number of them hung round the showroom to indicate the different marques we offered as a British Leyland dealer. I remember them going in the skip when the name was changed to Austin Rover, early 80s.. It's a bit of history that should be saved, it's only worth what someone will pay though, my limit would be about £50 if I saw it at Sodbury. Unless the OP is set on turning a profit, the motor museum at Gaydon is the place for it.

235/70/16 will be an inch taller than the standard 235/65/16. I doubt it it will make much difference.

Thanks Vac lines good, actuator working, turbo vnt arm moves freely and when vac's applied will change the engine note as the arm moves,, so unlike yours, it's all moving inside as well. I do this stuff for a living! Trouble is when it's your own car and it really is very intermittent, there's not much incentive to spend the day driving about with it plugged into the code reader.

Hi Interesting. I see the fault code started as P1270 and ended up as P1470. Typo or two faults? Currently chasing a very intermittent P1470.

Most modern vehicles now come without a spare or tool kit, both of which are normally (expensive) optional extras. Generally when people change cars (newer similar model) they'll remove the the spare if they've bought one, and put back the original foam insert that fits in place of the spare, like the OP's vehicle. We often find nothing in the boot of trade in's as the owners have kept the spare and not replaced the insert, adding to the cost of a used car prep'.

Surely from a practical point, you'd want them switched separately? In fog/snow you want the fronts on for forward visibility and the rears off to avoid dazzling following vehicles.