pat_pending
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Posts posted by pat_pending
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18 hours ago, Eightpot said:
They can create as many laws as they like, but as there's nobody to enforce, report or prosecute it's a bit pointless. MoT testers don't have training, authority or support to instigate a prosecution, and I don't imagine a call to the police to report an EGR bypass will get the blue lights switched on.
Yes, but you do need an MOT, and removing or bypassing emissions control equipment is already a fail for some vehicles, assuming it's spotted.
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I've not read it but I doubt any of it will be retrospective.
I wouldn't worry.
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I seem to remember that when I tried testing an LSD equipped car in the rollers, it kept trying to jump out whenever you applied the brakes.
Either decelerometer test it, we have a modern digital one that sits on the passenger seat, or pull a half shaft.
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Interesting, civvy spec interior but a mil spec rear axle.
With the right details I think you could get a record of it's service life.
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Are you sure it's ex MOD?
Not all Land Rovers painted NATO green are ex military.
Got any pictures or links to the advert?
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1 hour ago, Paddy_SP said:
Yes, I believe so - however, not being privvy to the background details, I don't know if what was designed there is actually what is being supplied to the public. I'm currently in the process of re-engineering the whole thing so that it meets my requirements. To this end, I've cut a new circlip groove and flipped the bar over. There isn't enough room to get the seal plate over the raised shoulder, so I'm going to have to make an extension seal carrier. At least when that's done the poor seal will have a chance of doing its job - sitting in fresh air as it does at the moment, it might as well not be there!
TBH I think you're overthinking it,
The "bar" is just a Land Rover half shaft, it's not been made for this application, just repurposed. There is no extra machining done.
The machined surface on the circlip groove end is there for it's original application, in a Land Rover axle.
It seems your issue is with the oil seal not sealing against the half shaft, so? does it really need to?
If you look at the hand drawn picture at step 9 of the instructions, you'll see there is very little space once assembled for either dirt to get in or the grease packed in the "clutch hub" to escape.
It's only during locking/unlocking that anything actually rotates in the hub, so there's no heat or force to push the grease out.
If the seal is supposed to keep dirt out, (I don't think it is, as they call it a retainer) the instructions show it fitted the wrong way round anyway.
I would imagine that as the position the seal sits in is unmachined, there's probably a wide tolerance of sizes amongst different shafts hence the slight gap on yours.
If you still want a tight fit against the shaft, get an oil seal with a smaller ID.
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Any fault codes?
Crank position sensor is a possibility.
You really need a garage that can diagnose the fault, not just guess.
35 minutes ago, jeremy996 said:That sounds like a bad stop solenoid wire.
No stop solenoid on an 04 diesel freebie.
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1 hour ago, Jocklandjohn said:
Well well. Ullapool....
Seems one of the couple who owns it drove to the shop and forgot they'd taken it, walked home and got engrossed in stuff. Then looked out window - no LR and panicked, called Police. It was found where it had been left.
Sigh.
Stand down chaps and chapesses!
And they have a driving licence?
That's either dementia or there's more to it.
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I've always thought the disc hand brake was an expensive solution looking for a problem.
I appear to be in a minority because I've never had a problem with a properly set up and maintained standard hand brake!
The one on my 110 works perfectly, it really does.
I MOT quite a few farm owned Land Rovers and I don't see major issues with them either, so I'm struggling to see what people are doing to cause them not to work.
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255/85/16 here as well.
Optimum size for a 90 or 110 as far as I'm concerned.
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12 minutes ago, oneandtwo said:
A lesson on door and panel alignment wouldn’t go amiss.
I'm sure they'll realise that, when they wash it and the interior is covered in water.
A lesson in "Just because you can, doesn't mean you should" might help as well.
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3 hours ago, Phill S said:
The head gasket set is from Payen, and dangerously I had assumed all components would be "right".
Payen gaskets are ok, the supplied washers are nearly always wrong though (as you've discovered), they also used to supply the old type orange rear main oil seal in the kits, long after it had been superseded by the newer Dowty seal.
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8 hours ago, Badger110 said:
Is it a specialist job to recon a steering box or possible in the workshop?
Easy enough. the few special tools can be made/adapted.
Unless abused, most steering boxes "should" last for years with minimal wear, it's the sector shaft leaking that kills them
The only way to properly cure that, is to repair the worn section where the seal runs and regrind to size, that's the specialist job.
Any of the other potential leak points are easy to deal with.
The supply of good reconditionable boxes is drying up, many will have been weighed in for scrap over the years when it was cheaper to buy another non leaking second hand box.
I see some of the better reconditioners will now also only do the box you send them, probably because of the junk they've had back in exchange after sending out a recon box.
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- Popular Post
- Popular Post
There is more charm and character in that vehicle than most of the "Blinged up" Defenders currently selling for ££££££££s.
Not only built in a shed... It is a shed!
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TBH I wouldn't bother to skim it unless it's badly scored.
A good clean up with some emery cloth should sort that surface out.
If you do go ahead I can't see .5mm making any difference to the clutch operation.
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21 hours ago, Happyoldgit said:
I didn't want my initial post to be misunderstood as an old f@rt boasting about buying shiny new stuff.
I also hope I didn't come across as telling people how they should spend their money.
I see quite a few late, low mileage Suzuki's (the epitome of reliability) traded in for new similar models, in some cases the same model just a different spec.
The tax/depreciation losses are huge.
Aside from my Land Rover obsession, I've always just bought cheap trade in cars, all of them have gone on to perform faultlessly for many tens of thousands of miles.
Any repair likely to cost more than a few hundred pounds or involves too much effort, sends them to the scrappy and I buy another.
Reliability doesn't have to be expensive.
There are few truly unreliable cars about anymore (Land Rover).
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29 minutes ago, Anderzander said:
I bought his ‘tuning the a-series’ book - it seemed hi-tech.
This one?
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I've spent 42 years in the motor trade and I still can't understand why people buy new cars.
And to bring the thread drift back on topic... Jimny? I can't stand the things, and the new one is even worse! Sorry, I really want to like them but they're horrendous.
Currently working at a Suzuki main dealer, so I have driven a few.
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I can see that wood going quite well with a cab built from reclaimed Victorian bricks, then adding a nice inglenook fireplace as a heater,
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To those suggesting to the op that the insurance company are obliged to write an open cheque for repairs, I suggest you might want to read up on betterment.
"Betterment will apply when, in the course of repairing an accident-damaged vehicle, a new part is used to replace an old part. Betterment is a portion of the cost owners may have to bear when a damaged vehicle part is replaced with a brand new part".
In this case a new chassis may significantly add to the value of the vehicle as it was pre accident.
It's not often applied, however in this case, if the op pursues his desire to have an uneconomical repair carried out he may find himself with a bill of his own for the added value the repair has given the vehicle.
My advice FWIW, would be, keep the vehicle with a settlement figure less salvage value, and get it repaired at a proper independent Land Rover specialists using second hand/non genuine parts.
You could probably get this done for far less than the estimate the insurance company would have received, you may even turn a small profit.
There would also be no record of the vehicle being "written off".
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10 years later...
On 4/14/2021 at 6:47 PM, EBCALITZ said:Have been running colt 2,8 non turbo for 2years ,2 nissan yd25 s bmw 330 d using pariffin and 2,5 % lubricant aditive in Lesotho no problems, actually the 330d seems to be more on the ball, had a bearing go on one of the nissan np300, did a complete overhall sent the diesel pump for service ,was sent back 100% still good that is after 375000kms
Holy thread revival Batman. lockdown boredom strikes again!
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16 hours ago, Bigj66 said:
So an MOT exempt vehicle couldn’t technically fail a test if it had LED lamps fitted because that particular section of the Tester’s manual doesn’t apply to it by virtue of its age?
If I understood what you wrote correctly.
Whether or not you want to fit them is another discussion.
Yes, absolutely, there's no "technically" about it.
The failure "Light source and lamp not compatible" does not apply to vehicles first used/ registered prior to 1/4/86 (currently 35 years and older).
Vehicles that are MOT exempt would be all over 40 years old.
Whether the vehicle requires an MOT or not has no bearing on the way it is tested (subject to the normal age related criteria) or the way the results are recorded.
To be completely clear here, we are talking about putting an LED bulb in an existing Halogen HEADLAMP housing.
The beam pattern would still have to be correct though or that would be a different failure (not related to the age of the vehicle).
Fitting complete purpose designed LED light units of any sort is not an MOT failure on any age vehicle, although headlamps would still be subject to the beam pattern requirements.
E marking is not part of the MOT*.
*For the purpose of this discussion.
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2 hours ago, reb78 said:
I think an MOT tester would need to confirm but i imagine the test and fail would still be noted on the system if one was conducted and charged for in the normal manner?? So wouldn't it flag up on ANPR etc as not having a valid test?
The results of any MOT logged into the system stay there.
If your MOT exempt vehicle fails a voluntarily submitted test and you chose not to have it retested your defence to the charge of not having a valid test certificate would be...The vehicle is test exempt. Although I doubt it would ever get to court.
Irrelevant as the LED/HID "Light source and lamp not compatible" fail doesn't apply to MOT exempt vehicles anyway.
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21 hours ago, vulcan bomber said:
This mechanism has nothing to do with timing advance. The injection is advanced by the plunger assembly lower down which rotates the cam plate inside the pump.
I'm certain the linkage shown is part of a cold start function, the usual method of achieving that is to advance the timing.
I'm aware of how the overall advance works, although I've not stripped a VE pump I'm not sure what else the lever could be doing to aid cold starting.
There are several cold start devices that can be fitted to that series of pumps in different locations, they all advance the timing.
As an aside, that lever with different linkage is also used as a mechanical fuel cut off on some VE pumps.
I've had quick google and I couldn't find a Bosch manual specific to 300tdi.
I think I've got a couple of old pumps somewhere, I'll have to dig them out and see what linkage they have.
UK Government proposals for "Anti-tampering".
in International Forum
Posted
I'm curious to know what makes you think that we don't.
If it's the amount of incorrectly spaced plates you see about, well a lot will be on vehicles under three years old so wont have had an MOT.
Then when I do fail a vehicle on plates, after the normal round of excuses, they tell you the correctly spaced plates are in the boot, and could we fit them.
Next time we see the car the old plates are back on, I've been failing the same vehicles for years like this.
Also, it's possible to have a plate that's "illegal" as in it doesn't meet C & U reg's but still passes the MOT, yeah I know, go figure.
That's exactly what we do, and if a manufacturers emissions equipment has been removed or bypassed and we can see it has, it fails.
I'm sure of the point you were making there.