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pat_pending

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Posts posted by pat_pending

  1. 1 hour ago, ThreePointFive said:

    It could be interesting in any case. Most of the advice I've seen or read is to go at it with new parts until the clicking stops. 

    See my last post, sticking a feeler blade between the rocker and the valve while it's running.

     

    57 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

    Fraid not, though you can get them, they are only designed for very high revving engines.

    As I recall we used to get all our parts from Allmakes, they did the OE aluminium rockers or a pattern part steel rocker which were actually cheaper and had less chance of failure.

    We just fitted the all steel ones.

    It was a long time ago, but I seem to remember the aluminium ones were handed, the valve pads being offset left or right but the steel ones were not.

     

    • Thanks 1
  2. You can't adjust the tappets on a V8, they're hydraulic and if you mean replacing them, then they should be done as a set with the cam, unless you can pinpoint one individual one that's faulty whilst the others are all perfect.

     

    Again, diagnose the problem, don't just throw parts at it.

     

    You can run it with the rocker covers off, one at a time to reduce the oil that's going to get chucked about.

    You'll need to stabilise the idle around 1000rpm, then you can go down each rocker and insert a 10 or 15 thou feeler blade between the rocker and valve stem while it's running.

    You can then listen for a change in sound at each valve, that should isolate the noise.

    Then you can insect that particular rocker/cam lobe/lifter for any problems.

    If doing that has no effect on the noise then it's going to be coming from elsewhere.

    As I said, I think you need someone experienced with the V8 to listen to it in real life.

    • Thanks 1
  3. 11 minutes ago, Mediamab said:

    Would lifters being worn make sense if the tap only happens when the engines warm? It has had a rebuild 8k miles ago but have no details beyond its costs and appreciate poor quality lifters may have been used

    Very possibly, yes. 

    Cam and lifter wear used to be a major issue on that engine, not sure if it still is, but...

    As there is no definitive definition as to what a "rebuild" entails it's anyone's guess what it's had replaced.

    As much as anyone on this forum likes to help and offer advice, sometimes a problem just needs someone to hear/see the vehicle in real life.

    I could tell you how to track down a failing lifter or rocker but I'm not sure of your confidence level, apologies if you're up for it, please ask and I'll elaborate.

    To that end I'd recommend finding a trusted garage/workshop or even someone local on here that has good knowledge of those engines and can offer an opinion, even if it means paying for a small amount of their time.

     

  4. 14 hours ago, Bowie69 said:

    All that said, if you want to spend money, there's no stopping you! But worth noting proper diagnosis is much better and cheaper than just shotgunning parts at a car. 

    I sometimes think that this sort of statement should be in big bold letters across the top of the home page.

     

    I've not had anything to do with the rover V8 for probably 30 years but tapping was normally camshaft/lifters worn or in the case of the old style aluminium rockers, either the steel pushrod seat was burrowing into the rocker or the steel valve pad was loose.

    I think rockers are all steel now, the replacement ones we used to fit were.

    Exhaust leaks are more of a "phut" than a tap imo.

     

  5. From the website...

    "This is a direct replacement for all Adwest 4 bolts steering boxes as well as the earlier 3 Bolt and 6 Bolt steering boxes.

    These do not come with drop arms so you will need to swap over your old one or fit a new one."

     

    Which suggests the box will accept both 4 & 3 bolt Adwest and 6 bolt Gemmer drop arms.

     

    This can't be the case though as Adwest and Gemmer drop arms are different, the spline patterns are similar but there is a difference in the taper.

    Adwest/Gemmer arms will fit but work loose if fitted to the wrong box.

    The fact they seem to be saying this box accepts either arm has alarm bells ringing for me.

    Their suggested "new" replacement is just the Adwest arm.

    • Like 1
  6. 6 hours ago, Stellaghost said:

    To those of you I've met I wish you all a fantastic Christmas and best luck with your endeavours/ projects in the new year

    For those of you who I have yet to meet I also wish you a fantastic Christmas and best of luck with your endeavours / projects in the new year 

    Regards Stephen 

    Hope you have a brilliant Christmas and a productive new year.

    At least Santa will be bringing your presents and not DPD!

    • Haha 1
  7. 10 hours ago, Northwards said:

    I realise they are expensive, and the looks are a bit ‘marmite’, but I’ve been pretty happy with the MUD ones I fitted a while ago. I thought having a red light option would be a bit of a gimmick, but I actually tend to use that more than the white.

    Probably not really what you’re after, but thought I’d mention it anyway. 

    I like them, I'd certainly use the red function, but...Nearly £100 for two!

    There's a lot of nice stuff on MUD but I can't help thinking it's all way overpriced.

    2 hours ago, miketomcat said:

    I'd just put led bulbs in the original units.

    Mike

    Nothing wrong with current light output, they're just old fashioned lights and I fancied something more modern looking, I thought the later units would be about £10-15.

     

  8. I'm looking to replace the two interior lights in the 110 with something a bit more modern, currently has the old style glass lensed ones.

    I'd thought I'd just use pair of the later type with some led bulbs in, but even the pattern one's come in at about £25 a piece!

    Ebay is awash with self contained led units but it's pot luck as to how they perform.

    Any recommendations?

  9. On 12/8/2023 at 1:46 PM, landroversforever said:

    I always thought it was just valving differences between tdi variants and the V8 ones.

    I was told, but I can't remember where, that the tdi version of the HP22 had different weights in the governor and a different profile on the roller the kickdown cable attaches to in the box, to better match the shift pattern to a tdi.

     

    I've been after a scrap tdi box for ages as I've got a V8 one behind mine and while I'm generally happy with the way it performs, I'm sure it could be better.

     

  10. Flux are ridiculously cheap on my modified 110, around £120 I think.  For my standard Freelander the AA offered the best value cover at a few hundred £.

    I was with NFU for years until their premiums started getting ridiculous, over £800 for the Freelander!

    It surprises me to hear of others getting decent quotes out of them,  I'm 60 with no claims or convictions in a "good" postcode, I don't think they wanted the business.

     

  11. My 110 200 Tdi auto can reach just under 80 😱 (gps indicated) on good flat road, although it's happiest around 60-65.

    1.4 T/box, 255/85s and a tweaked pump.

    Without driving the vehicle it's impossible to know whether the op's problem is engine or transmission related.

    I've found the kickdown setting is really important with the auto/tdi combo, and It's difficult to get a setting that suits all driving situations.

     

  12. Not been for ages, it's just too far with no guarantee of either buying what I'm after or selling enough to be viable after entry/fuel costs are factored in.

    The cynic in me also thinks large amounts of the stuff there is from stolen vehicles.

    • Like 1
  13. 40 minutes ago, simonr said:

    IMHO, this seems to be a scam!

    Yep, pretty standard across the hire car sector.

     

    19 hours ago, sean f said:

    ultimately it will go in via expenses so its not my money

    Someone's paying though, it's a cost that eventually gets passed onto the end user of whatever goods or services your company supply.

    We all end up paying for these scams.

    • Like 1
  14. I can't see any damage.

    However, assuming there are scratches, a mobile smart repair would probably be around £45 + vat a scratch, less if they were close together.

    Whatever they charge you, they won't get the repair done.

    Hire companies generally lease their vehicles, and unless the damage is significant won't repair them, they just pay a general damages fee when they come off lease (covered by all the times they've charged hirer's).

    I think at the stage you're at you'll struggle to get out of it.

  15. On 5/6/2023 at 3:01 PM, Eightpot said:

    Yep I'll be going over. Really wanted to take the rangie ambulance but giving some mates a lift so will have to be the 110 instead. Looking forward to a mooch round the museum.

    What did you think?

    I quite enjoyed it, although very surprised by how few traders there were. 

     It was good too look round the museum as I've not been for a while.

    I don't think I'll bother next year though.

     

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