Josh

Hi thanks for the info. I tried hooking the pipe to the actuator to my compressor airline. The wastage and actuator moved freely. I think it should be ok. Might buy a boost gauge too just to be sure.

Hello, Im currently in the process of converting my 1980 Lightweight to 200 tdi power. The engine is in and everything is piped up. My question is should the turbo wastegate rod move when I give the engine a good rev? Some background........ I started it for the first time today and after a few turns it fired up with no issues (to my relief!) During the conversion I clocked the turbo and moved the wastegate (drilled and tapped new holes in the housing etc) The wastegate butterfly moved freely and the actuator was stiff but moved. So again, my question is, should the wastegate rod move when the engine is given a good rev? Because ,basically, mine doesn't and If there is an issue I can get easy access to it now. Thanks Josh

Thanks for the replies, Cleaned the breather and then drained the diff and replaced the oil this afternoon, looks like its fixed it. There so sign of leakage but after closer inspection of the brake pads they will need replacing. Thanks for your help!spot on as always.

Hi all, im running a 300tdi discovery and could do with some advice please, Noticed today that there was some diff oil on the inside of the rear wheel. # After a quick google search and a consultation with the haynes manual i was directed towards investigating the hub seal/ bearing and breather. The hub sounds and feels fine when the wheel is jacked up and i rotate it, no excessive play side to side either. I then checked the breather pipe............. which was completly blocked so im going to assume a pressure build up caused the leak??????? Is it likley i will need to replace the hub oil seal? Thanks Josh

So will i need to remove the pump in order get at the shear bolts or can this job be done with the pump still fitted?

Cheers bogmonster, Any ideas where to start? The discovery is a manual by the way. From doing some research online am i right in assuming that only automatic models were fitted with EDC?

Hi all, Basically, I went to start my 98 300tdi discovery yesterday and the engine turned but didnt fire up. The battery was fine and to make sure i tried jumping it off another car, still no luck. I then checked to see if there was a fueling problem. Fuel was getting from the lift pump to the filter and to the injection pump but wasnt reaching the injectors. I decided to check the fuel solenoid but was confronted with a metal box surrounding where it should be with 3 wires going into it (anti theft?). I tested the wires with the ignition turned on and 2 had 12v running through and the other must be the earth. Upon closer inspection there seems to be no way of removing the box with the solenoid in from the pump. Have i missed something or am I barking up the wrong tree ?

Hi, A friend has just bought a defender 90 truck cab. He is after a canvas load cover for the rear tub, like you can get for a sankey trailer. We are sure we have seen them at shows and other events, but internet searches and other enquiries have turned up nothing. Do they exist?.......if so....who sells them? Thanks

Thanks for the feedback, I have just seperated the two sections of the prop (marked them up) and the spline will only allow the prop to slide together in one particular position. Any other way and it gets jammed and i dont want to force it. it would apperar Cipx2 that it is 2 splines ahead of the front yoke. As for the flanges. They seem to be fine. No play in them. With the prop in position there is about 0.5" of 'take up' before the diff engages but i think thats normal? Could it be a chipped tooth in the diff or a problem with the halfshafts?

Hello, Ok i have a Discovery 98 300tdi manual. Last week it started to get a vibration from the front end of the drivetrain. Turned out a UJ on the front prop had gone. As I had to be at work the following day and couldnt get hold of any new UJ's, a mate kindly provided me with a spare discovery front prop (identical to the one removed). We checked the spare prop was in good nick, which it was, then fitted it. Heres the problem, since then in 3rd gear at around 30mph/2500rpm theres a vibation/shudder which i believe is coming from the front axle as it can be felt through the steering wheel. Its more apparent under load, going up hill. I have had the prop back off and checked the universal joints and slpines and they are fine. Any ideas what it could be? Much appreciated

Thanks cipx2, The main difference is very apparent! So i guess that i will need the disco damper.

Hello, Just fitted a steering damper relocation kit to my disco (putting the damper in front of the axle like a defender) and im wanting to purchase a new gas damper to fit. I dont know whether to fit a disco or defender damper. Whats the difference between the disco and defender dampers or can i fit either? They are listed as different part numbers so im assuming they arent the same. Also, any suggestions to which make of gas damper to go for, there seems to be alot of choice! Cheers

I finally got around to taking the top off the gearbox and had a peer inside. The first thing that struck me was that the gear lever yoke was not secured in it usual place and was sat on the gate plate below. There were no signs of the circlip or any other bits that should secure it in place. I removed the gear lever very carfully and it came with no resistance, so i dont think it ripped it out. Any ideas what has happened here? Thanks Josh

Thanks cipx2, Didnt know that you could adjust the bias plate, but now you mention it i do remember the holes being elongated. I will try and adjust it tomorrow and see if things are any better. Thanks for your help. Josh

Ok, Today i removed the centre consol and accessed the top of the gearbox. The vertical part on the bias plate had snapped off and was rolling around in the top of the box (as drwak ^^^ pointed out). It looked pretty hammered, like at some point it had been jammed in somewhere. I sourced a replacement and fit it with no problems. This seems to have solved the probem of getting into 3rd,4th and 5th. However, 1st, 2nd and reverse are still a real bugger to engage and disengage. Cipx2 (and anyone else out there), if this is a selector problem, how do i go about fixing it? Thanks Josh

Thanks for the reply guys, I agree that it is most likley a clutch related problem and not the gearbox. I have had a look through some info on the internet and it seems that problems enaging and disengaing gears can be down to either the slave or the clutch fork, like you said jerboa. I have had a look at the slave an there is no fluid dripping out of it and it looks in reasonable nick. Is there any other way of checking it?could the clutch damper be responsible? Thanks Josh

Hello, I have had my discovery 300tdi for a while now and have never had any problems with the manual gearbox, nor did the previous owner. However, last weekend after going on a bit of a run out, and getting stuck in slow moving traffic for an hour, the gearbox started to act up. The gears dont seem to be where they used to be (if that makes sense ) 1st and 2nd are hard to engage and crunch, 2nd up to 3rd can jam sometimes and 3rd seems to engage further to the right than before, 4th is fine, 5th doesnt seem to enage all the way propeerly and grinds as does reverse. Changing down gears is also interesting as they stick and wont disengage easily. 1st and reverse are the worst for disengaging. So far i have checked the master cylinder and slave cylinder. There are no leaks and the fluid level is fine I changed the gearbox oil to see if that made any difference and it hasn't. Is this a clutch problem or is it the gearbox itself?any ideas would be great. Thanks Josh

Hello, I have a Series 3 2.25 petrol and I would like to convert it to an electronic ignition. The distributor is a ducellier model. I was looking at the following kit http://www.aldonauto.co.uk/shop/product.as...=39&P_ID=95 My questions are, 1/ do i need the counter clockwise or clockwise model? 2/ do i need to buy anything else other than whats in the kit? 3/ Will it work? Thanks Josh

I can second that. I bought a 2" lift kit from mm4x4 online. Bearmach springs and pro comp shocks. Fit them and then realised that the shocks were standard length......not plus 2". MM4x4 wouldnt take them back so i literally kicked myself. Josh

Hi all, I have nipped across from the discovery forum with a question. My dad has a 1980 S3 Lightweight 2.25 petrol. Its coming up to dreaded MOT time and he decided to change the brake shoes and drums (front and rear) as the brakes were getting a bit vague. The new shoes and drums went on fine and the old one were well worn. We bled the brakes and the pedal just pushed to the back of the footwell with no pressure. So we bled the brakes a further 4 times and still no joy. There is no air coming from the bleed nipples anymore its just fresh fluid.My dad put clean cardboard underneath the motor overnight and there are no apparent leaks. We have bled the system several time before with no problems. Could it just be a big air lock? Any advice welcome. Thanks, Josh

Hi all, Just an update post. I have managed to sell my standard length pro comps to a friend for 80quid which im pleased about. In their place i have just ordered some +5" rough country shocks and mounts from david at Llama 4x4. What a helpful bloke! Told him my issues and he had an instant recomended setup. Once i have had chance to fit the kit i wil post some pics. Thanks again for everyones help. Josh

The springs im runing are bearmach HD's so there pretty stiff, the body roll at the moment is minimal really compared to some lifted andies iv been in. I have been looking at rough country shocks and they seem to get good reviews and have a longer life expectancy than pro comps. they arent too cheap but i have learnt my lesson! Im buying right and buying to last! Josh

What effect would 4" shocks have on the ride - ie roll on corners? I have had a look around and cant find anyone who sells +4" shocks. Any hints would be much appreciated. Josh

hi ade, no the shocks have been on for about a month so swapping isnt really an option. josh

Im now in two minds wether to keep the standard pro comps and fit dropped mounts front and rear.....................or for a similar price i can buy a new set of pro comp +2" shocks. Josh