oakesy
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Posts posted by oakesy
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Defender td5 2002
The temperature gauge gets up to normal when driving and the heater works OK.
Soon as you stop the heater blows cold but the temperature gauge stays at normal.
Does any one know what could be wrong please.
First. Welcome to the site. First off check all the cables for the heater levers see any are defective or need readjusting. Majority of problems stem in this area. Have a look in the archive section for further advise on locating problems
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Kerosene was also added to diesel pumps or Avtur. When I was refuelling helicopters in the Falklands. Worked a treat.
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If its the original fuel used then this may have degraded.
1. Check or replace filters.
2. Injection on idle carbs could be narrowed from lack of use.
3. Blocked air filter.
4. If auto fuel inject blockage or fueltank pump power faulty.
5. Choke usage not fully used so still running on a cold engine.
6. Auto choke could have a damaged diaphragm.
Hope these help
. but could you reply stating type of engine 3.5 3.9efi or above and age of vehicle. 
regards fellow v8 fuel burner
:D :D So Sorry just notice your header. Slight problem with Mark One issued eyeballs. Must remember to look up next time.
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Hi, ive decided to bring my defender v8 auto back to the road after sitting for a year, just a little problem or could be a big problem, it starts fine, runs ok, then it wil start splutting and nearly die's? leave it for a while then seems to be fine then it will start spluttering again?
can some 1 help or offer some susgestions?
thanks
jack
If its the original fuel used then this may have degraded.
1. Check or replace filters.
2. Injection on idle carbs could be narrowed from lack of use.
3. Blocked air filter.
4. If auto fuel inject blockage or fueltank pump power faulty.
5. Choke usage not fully used so still running on a cold engine.
6. Auto choke could have a damaged diaphragm.
Hope these help
. but could you reply stating type of engine 3.5 3.9efi or above and age of vehicle. regards fellow v8 fuel burner
:D :D -
Interesting I will give this a trial to see how that works. Thanks atlas2
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Just bought on a whim and a boredom fancy.
A cheap 12v Piezo buzzer to fit on the reversing light. 
Could this be attached to the wiring okay or will this need some extra resistance? Also is this legal to fit and no smack bum from law and mot. vehicle 1988 v8 3.5 csw -
Not being a serious electrician and feel free anyone to mock and slap the back of my head like an foolish child
Pending on the condition of the bulkhead and fittings to the chassis. Also the engine and gearbox is only connected by the mountings to the chassis are weak points. Where a direct earthing strap cancel out any form of resistance level. -
temporary measure Botch Tape for winter.
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Your earthing trying to find grounding via alternative source.So this might be interfering other power usage. Also the gearbox bellhousing and engine might not be made of the same material. intermittent error with your lights dimming could well be the battery being poor or not recharging correctly for reuse.
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The only concern will be the Gear box area. But these I suspect could be trimmed. I had a similar type for my 1988 v8 lt85 110. Mine had sections to trim for different gearbox. I would give the seller an email asking if can fit yours for reassurance.
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Check your relay for water damage open your access panel and listen for the relay switch clicking. Also check the contacts for Hazard switch for any poor contact.
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My first land rover was A Reg A7** RCK Ninety. Loved it but had a 2.25 NA diesel fitted originally a petrol before I bought it. Part exchange this for my current 3.5 V8 1988 CSW 110
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Might not be much of
contribution to the original debate. If you move the original seat back without raising a little. Would you not suffer from the seat box digging into the back of your legs. There is a slightly more expensive version from exmoor trim, that pitches the at angles. At present i am still using the Mud version. But if I am waiting for a long time for my passenger I generally switch off and sit in the passenger seat instead. -
There still Thermo silver steel paste. Which has metal filings and hardener to mix and use on manifolds As newbie mentioned if the surface is smooth gum gum will not grip.
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I use a 300w truck heater which attaches to the battery itself. I had a problem with my rear windows steaming up on rainy days
. So I rigged up some flexible aluminium heating duct and directed this to the rear side windows. Works quite well. More or lest the same way a arctic heater in the lightweights 
. If anyone knows when looking out of a CSW has a better solution I'd love to hear it. 
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Hello Rich.
1. Yes you will need the fuel line to return as the inflow goes through one carb and exit out the second carb. So if your facing the carbs the right receives the inline and the left out return pipe.
2. The size I think is the same anyway on the inline and return.
3. Unless the tank has all the fitting the same the petrol version with the internal electrical pump. Possible but the problem will be from the pump will be different in force for diesel and petrol. Also the tank will need flushing or broken down in the residue contents.
Hope this helps, hopefully a grownup will give better advice.
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Possible they're worn out on the driver side. Mine are like that,
gave trying in the end. -
On the part of the chassis I did not have any mud flaps but I attached mine halfway between the support strap and the rear section. For the front on the outrigger via two nut and bolts hope this helps. hopefully a grownup will offer better advice and pictures.
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Alternator failed. New one obtained from Three Sheds. Fantastic. Took old one off. No problems. Noticed power steering belt could do with replacing. Bolt on back of mounting wouldnt come undone and space limited due to dizzy. I know take dizzy out. Access to bolt obtained and belt replaced and tightened. Dizzy replaced which had been preserved nearby so that nothing was moved and engine which was at tdc not altered.
Fantastic. Start it up. Blew air box off and the explosion nearly shattered the house windows. Wife ran out with first aid box enquiring if i had any eyebrows left. Dont know what ive done to get timing 180 degrees out but problem rectified and Maximus wont start. Firing but not starting. A full day for a simple job. One of those days im afraid. Try again tomorrow.
:lol: :lol: :lol: I remember having a similar problem when using LPG for few times . Explaining confidently to my mechanic the positives sides of using and how quickly to switching over to LPG from petrol . Forgetting in the process to drain off twin carbs first . With the consequence of very loud bangs from exhaust and airbox end. 
Rather a stayed grin and a look at the ceiling from a deafened mechanic . -
Could do with a little more to go on Mike. Was the engine running before you replaced the coil and ign amp?
If the engine has not run in a long time,
Check plugs are clean and correctly gapped. If any are particulary rusty it could indicate water ingress via bad head gasket,
Check condition of plug leads,
Check for white/green corrosion where leads plug in to cap
Check inside of cap for crud on the contacts, outside for signs of cracking/damage.
Clean end of rotor arm with some fine abrasive paper
Check you have good clean petrol coming through
If it still won't run right, you could relace the cap and arm, preferrably with genuine parts. Some pattern stuff is notoriously likely to cause problems.
Next you could try a compression test. If any cylinders are low it may indicate any of the following - rings stuck/worn, valve sealing issues, head gasket issues.
I'm not 100% on pressures to expect but I believe anything lower than 120 PSI isn't great, but it should still run like this, albeit not as well as it should.
Second that. There is a spark plug tester that can sit between the lead and plug. This will show any spark or no spark.
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Spare Not Used according to my Land Rover 110 book section 2 warning lights No 9, 14, 18 the same. the rest are standard except for Germany and other country requirements
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Check you continuity wiring. They may have degraded like rear windows version.
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best trick is to use a garden watering can while a friend inside watching for leaks. I personally think looking for leaks in landrover is a trial of endurance and test for insanity.
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1. Check your leads to the HT.
2. Check the distributor cap for the flexible centre brush.
3. Check to see if the amplifier at the side has loose cables.
4. Possible outcome HT FAILURE, AMPLIFIER UNIT FAILURE, HT LEAD FAILED, CONNECTORS BROKEN.
Depending on age, mine is 1988 3.5 V8, amplifier failed on the side of the distributor.
:( 
Could this be attached to the wiring okay or will this need some extra resistance? Also is this legal to fit and no smack bum from law and mot. 
. So I rigged up some flexible aluminium heating duct and directed this to the rear side windows. Works quite well. More or lest the same way a arctic heater in the lightweights 
. If anyone knows when looking out of a CSW has a better solution I'd love to hear it. 
Rather a stayed grin and a look at the ceiling from a deafened mechanic
Heater box in wheel arch.
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Wouldn't you suffer from natural heat dispersal from copper pipes length or rubber type. As for flow you would need a pump because strength of power of the water pump. Unless you have a smaller heater box maybe half size and a narrow in feed to create pressure. Please someone slap me down here
I was thinking of a self contained unit that might work. I like the idea of the military arctic heater for my 110 mobile greenhouse. 
:lol: 
With the hoses running off. I have a 300watt truck heater that i have adapted to rear air dimister.