[Most Usless Spare You Own?]

Sods Law of Motoring

[KEYS- LOST!]

Depends on how early. Lift handle is removing the lockin pin in the barrel via a drill. Push lock type is to remove the screw at the back.

[Pay check simply goes to Defender Tools snf Parts]

I simply had to say this. Currently I am getting a DEFENDER MANIA. When I drive I simply ignore Subarus...Oh no not that one.. Toyotas nor Mercedes Benz.. A Landrover on my way is just cool but the Coolest is someone driving a DEFENDER like me...Then I raise my hand with all pride.

Currently the deal is that, any time I diagnose problems on the SHARK (Name of my Java Black Defender 110 99 model) I tend to channel loads of funds on not only Tools but parts. I simply buy 2 or on happy days ( when I have had 2 or 3 Pints too much) 3 parts. I feel defenderlized.. In my brain it is a matter of finding the smartest way of solving every problem on the SHARK.. I have enough money to live of but I am worried the Land Rover thing is getting too much obsessionized. Should I go to the doctor? Well a forum like this is a place to voice out all pains... problems and solutions.. ARe we all like this? Help needed

Yes I do make great efforts in waving to others Series and Defenders and chat to if near to anyone owning when parked up. The condition you have got is called M.N.T.L. or D.U.T. (Might need that later or Definately use that) Tool. :P :rolleyes: It affect mostly men when they look at tool magazines or entering Motor spares shops. You may also hear tutting sound with it :unsure: That called a Landrover wife. Thankfully not blessed yet .Now where did I put that spanner.

[Rough Running]

Check Fuel lines into the carbs for any breaks or leaks. Is the Accelerater link cable snagging. Does it struggle on idle revs if so jets need a clean. Check mixture on idle the adjuster screws on each carb mine are alway loosening. When have you had the lr serviced. Alot of little niggles can upset the v8. I know mine was a pain in the perverbals Even on lpg . But still There is only two areas to keep an eye on the v8 beast Electrics and counting pennies Fuel Hope this helps.

[Rough Running]

Hello.

Go through the routine method of checking each spark plug. My V8 struggle after having engine running for half an hour on idle for it mot test. As a result coked up the plugs. Make sure All the breathers are clean two over the rocker covers and pipes connecting. Mine used to fill up with a white oily gunge. Hope this helps

[Removing Steering Wheel]

Is this the tool off Ebay that someone made. You could fabricate by using a good solid metal bar with measurements for the holes. Or better still use shorter M6 bolts with penny washers to compensate for the movement. Hope this helps

[Alternators]

Hello Cat. See if your belt is shiney as this tends to create the squealing. some one mentioned rubbing in talc powered. Check the archive for reasurance. As far as I know the belt should not be to tight because you will put too much strain on the alternator. There is nothing wrong in upgrading to a higher spec as this will allow extra boost for spotlamps etc. Hope this helps

[Exhaust low down]

What is it with these v8 manifold. Like Dirtbox I am having trouble with the downpipe connection to the manifold passenger side. I have had the downpipe welded to the y pipe and the little sod goes on the manifold. Brand new pipes, yet would they stay on.

[so how different are they]

ok over the last few days ive been trying to sort out why my engine wont start after i have had it running when i first got the lr

the engine i was told was a range rover 3.5 v8, on searching the engine number i found out its a efi Auto 9.35:1 cr 1986 onwards how ever it has a carb not injectors (found this out when buying spark plug as 3.5 lr and both 3.5 range rovers have different spark plugs) so now im really confused i now have two sets of plugs one for the lr v8 (BPR5E) and one for a carb 3.5 v8 range rover (BP5ES) how ever i think i may have the wronge ones again as even though it has a carb at some point it would have had injectors, to top it off the engine still isnt working im getting no spark off the plug that are in which are the BP5ES and so i started looking for distributors but this has lead to the problem of the number on the one fitted is 41873A which on reading is electronic (not sure what this means) and i cant find the amp which is suposed to be fitted so with my very limited knowlage (by limited i mean little ) im really stuck

and i could do with some help and advise

Hello Herpmad.

Have a look at RPI Engineering website. If you say you had no problem running your engine when you got it. I suspect you got rid of you original spark plugs. Is your carbs the large pot version SU type or the stromberg.

Distributor Strom N12Y or RN11YC type of sparkplug

Distributor SU N12Y type

EFI RN11YC

This above is according to current parts catalogue 1987 to 2001.

According to memory their are three types of Distributors for the v8 range the latter I have a amplifier block on my 1988. So you will need to check for a good spark created. So you may have a duff connection between the Dizzy and the coil. Hope this helps

regards Crash bang wallop john

[Urgent fuel tank help!]

Hello one and all.

I have converted a V8 CSW to a 300tdi, using a disco engine and box.

I have used the V8 petrol tank and replaced the petrol sender on the side of the tank with a diesel one with a pick up pipe.

The petrol fuel pump is still in the tank but not connected - ie the wiring disconected.

Now this is where i don't know if I've gone wrong.

I have used the pick up on the side of the tank as the in-feed fot the lift pump and then I have attached the return pipe from the fuel pump to the return pipe on the fuel tank on the opposite side of tank to the fuel sender.

The car did run and drive, but was vaery down on power and when i backed of the throttle it stalled. and I tried to drive up a hill that was local to me and it just lost power and stalled.

And after the truck has been idling then it is turned off, you can here the fuel draining back into the tank, through the return pipe, surely it should stay primed?

There is no sedimeter on this, do I need it?

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE HELP!

I have the MOT booked tomorrrow and I only have this afternoon to sort it and a few other problems out

Thanks in advance

Andi

Have you tried to use the petrol pump setup instead. Sound like the suction isn't good, how much fuel do you have in the tank a few gallons slopping around might cause the diesel pump not to prime properly. There maybe a good chance that disconnect the petrol pump may allowed air to enter instead of the sealing affect when you a cap. Hope this helps.

[Bonnet Catch Seized]

Hi had a new cable fitted at work a few months ago now the catch has seized

Have taken the grill off and tried to move the little lever manually but it just wont pop up.

Have tapped it with a hammer too but no joy. Any suggestions ?

Also would like to replace it with one like this if anyone knows where to get one thats in stock as thexmod has sold out.

Simple solution get an old thick pen and jam in under the bonnet near the latch mechanism and go and pull the bonnet release handle. Works every time with mine and mine Cr*p. :P :P :P Sod Law

[Trouble 'looming']

Hey all, been spending the weekend getting all intimate with the wiring inside the ol' girl with a view to attempting some interior mods...

...and quite frankly, it's a mess! I don't know where to start!

I've been finding stray wires all over the place. I think the previous owner added a lot of kit and then ripped it out before the sale.

- My fuse box. I seem to have a 'non standard' addition, complete with 2 whopping great wires which snake all the way around the dash. Anyone got any thoughts - I've unplugged them and nothing seems to happen...

- Found this fella hanging from the gearbox crossmember. Tried to follow it but couldn't quite see where it goes.

- Is this wire meant to be connected to that terminal? If so - what does it do? Oil pressure sender?

Also, I don't have pics but I've got 2 big blocks of bullet connectors (with spare connections) under the bonnet near the clutch reservoir and one on the other side near the heater.

All help appreciated! I'm rubbish with electrics...

Guppy

Hello Guppy.

Do you have a 90/110 servicing booklet. check your electrical wire diagram section and the colour code.

This will narrow down most of the loose wires. I have some spare wire connections on mine. As for your first picture on mine the smaller box is for the rear screen heater and rear water bottle motor 10/5 amp fuse. Check by removing the fuse and test with wired bulb or multimeter on the rear window heater..

[Help!]

You could always run it on gas as long as you keep the engine warmed up every four hours. I normally stay on gas for most the day and mine is a single point bigas unit. As for the botch job you could attach a temporary rubber hose with some clips and tape to prevent leaks for that short period. Plus make sure your tank fairly full too stop dregs. Funny enough when I had my previous mot last year. My engine was left running for the emissions test which resulted coking up the engine spark plugs. As I gleefully drove the home the first approach uphill was a struggle. I went back to complain and they kindly cleaned my spark plugs. Like you I start up and finish on petrol.

LR 110 V8 SW 1988 PETROL / LPG and no problems yet :unsure: :unsure:

[wont start when hot]

Guys i have a 2 1/4 petrol 90 witha webber carb.. it starts lovely when cold but once driven if left for 10-15 mins it just keeps turning over touch the throttle while cranking it and you can smell fuel.. any ideas?

You will smell the petrol because you not firing. check your plugs for oil cover or a thick layer crud. When you start on cold you will be using the choke out which uses the full jet in the carb not the idle jet. You may need to get the jets cleaned. Also when cranking over check to see you fuel lines for any leaks as this will allow air in causing starvation.

[Passed MOT]

:P :P Good old girl passed with flying colour's My 110 1988 V8 CSW even purred on the way home. On the forum recently someone asked about classification for testing. I had a chat with my tester and they confirmed only vehicle up to 3000kg. After that and not one kg above. Mine is classed as IV.

I think with running on LPG most of the time and only using petrol to start up and warm. The engine is giving off cleaner emissions on the test results. SO STICK THAT UP YAH CRAW YA TREE HUGGERS.

[Indicators]

Every thing is connected, I chaged the hazard switch again and they now work.

But the dash lights only work when indicating right

Sound like a faulty wire on the downward connection . If the relay still sounds okay for turning left and right and when you visible see all your indicators outside working okay. Could be a sign your indicator switch unit is faulty . Do you have a multimeter to check with. Have they been working okay before you change the Hazard switch.

Sometimes relays get worn out too.

[Indicators]

Haven't checked, will look tomorrow cheers

Is the relay still clicking on and off. Also remove your steering cowling and check to see if there a live feed.

[Seats - stupid dumb question]

Try these people or manufacture yourself a set of rails. The idea is to give you some extra inches in leg room. I like a lot of people slightly portly and tall. http://www.mudstuff.co.uk/MUD_Seat_Rails.html

[V8 3.5 110 1988 Exhaust]

You could try two clamps on the joint, or have a welder tack it together!

Unless you are bashing the exhaust on the ground offroad, the most likely reason for it to keep popping apart is a backfire, usually on overrun.

Have you changed anything lately which may have left the engine running rich?

Hi Thanks for the reply. I have only added an Open LPG system to the engine. I suspect this may have been dodgy when I bought it..

I notice from adverts a stainless steel version can be added. Would this be worth buying for this aged model. Or just replace like for like the better option.

[V8 3.5 110 1988 Exhaust]

Hello Newbie Here.

I am having trouble with the join on my v8 exhaust. The problem area is the Y connect to the Down pipes. I have had them resealed, pasted bandaged. I would like to know the little sod keeps dislodging.

V8 110 3.5 1988SW.

John