C18RCH
-
Posts
331 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by C18RCH
-
-
I don't know if it is definately legal or not, but they did weld the steering column on one of the wheeler dealer episodes. Cannot remember which one though unfortunately.
I can't see how it is any worse than welding certain parts of the chassis?
Rich
-
After having read that interview I would not be so quick to condemn him or the new defender. What he is saying is perfectly true, trying to argue the point is just futile,
the current DefenderThe EU and its regulations needs major major work.They are taking their time on this one and I recon they will produce 100% pure marmite.
what aint broke, dont need fixinWhere's that like button when you want it.
-
I disagree with most of that statement but particularly this:
"The current Defender has never sold on its design".
I know lots of people with brand new defenders because they think they look cool and that never leave the tarmac. A defender has character. It's like nothing else on the road.
-
when there is no point investing in a car hands free kit for your phone because you wouldn't be able to hear it anyway.
-
Yeah, same at sodbury, billing, peterborough, etc. I find it funny when people start putting traffic cones on their roofs to help. Unfortunately when everyone is doing the same it kind of defeats the object too.
-
I thought the brake biasing was internal to the main brake sevo/master cylinder housing on all defenders?
If you are talking about the PDWA then my 110 definately has one. It is on page 493 of the parts manual.
I cannot get my 110 to stop locking the rear wheels. I was just putting it down to not having enough weight on the rear end and too much on the front (whinch etc) combined with MTs.
I have been looking into fitting an adjustable brake bias valve to correct this.
-
You park in a giant car park without bothering to note if you are in A42 or W7 - because you can see it amid a sea of euro boxes from miles away.
Not in wiltshire. I did that when I first moved to Salisbury. So used to just being able to spot it. Parked in the local tesco, when I came out I was presented with a sea of defenders. A green 90 does not stand out in a car park full of other green 90s
. -
Get back in the normal car and nearly put your foot thru the floor when you push the clutch down !!
or the brake
-
I bought a new speedo cable which turned out to be britpart. Would have not ordered it had I known. The drive flange that goes into the transfer box is physically too small to engage it. All that happens is trasfer box drive flange spins around it. Returned it which they said they would only replace like for like since I had fitted it already, got a new one, exactly the same. Asked for a refund, Britpart responded with "we've never had that problem before" and refused the refund.
Ordered a bearmach one - fine. Job done.
-
I used a wire knot brush on an angle grinder. Was the only thing that would touch the old military paint. Didn't damage the body work, it's tougher than you think. Just kept moving around so as not to build up too much heat in one area.
-
Fitted a new filter last night. Has made no difference. Only thing I can think now is it must be one of the pumps or something more serious altogether.
-
Thread revival time
Hi everyone,
I know this has been covered before, but I'm rapidly running out of ideas.
The background: 1988 Ninety into which I put a 200tdi a couple of months back. The engine starts without smoke, and most of the time runs sweet as anything - bags of power, etc.
However, on almost every trip now, at some point it will suddenly lose all power. At this point, it'll tick over quite happily, but simply will not rev properly - in neutral with my foot on the floor the revs start to rise then drop, rise then drop - in gear it simply will not rev at all, and I'm lucky if I can get up to 20mph.
If I stop the engine and start it straight away, chances are it'll still misbehave. If I wait 5-10 minutes and then start it, all is well with the world and you'd never know there'd been a problem.
Things I've done: Flushed intercooler, replaced lift pump, replaced fuel filter, lubricated and freed the pin under boost diaphragm. The intercooler pipes were brand new when I fitted the engine (aluminium tubes with silicon joints).
The fact that it's intermittent, and the engine doesn't display any symptoms when it's running properly means I'm at a loss as to what to look at next. I've tried to be systematic - only changing one thing at a time, and then driving the car until it misbehaves again.
Any ideas what to look at next? What could cause the engine to behave like this?
Thanks in advance,
Ian.
Having more or less exactly the same problem with mine currently. Only difference is mine is a 110 ;-)
Tried all of the above to no avail. Only thing I haven't tried is replacing the fuel filter but got one today and will try that tonight.
Is there anything else that could be causing it that isn't mentioned above?
Cheers,
Rich
-
Mythbusters did testing. To get any measurable result, you need to be at an unsafe following distance.
Yes they did but I believe they found even at safe distances there was somthing like 10% reduction in drag. You are correct in that it is upto 80% at about 2ft from the rear bumper.
-
Try your local agricultural parts place. They will usually make up hydraulic pipes for you.
-
I've used HB Body Stone Chip on the inner wheel arches and the tub floor on my 110 and have been please with the results. Leaves a fairly thick coat when dry, damps down the vibrations well, and dries hard so you can paint over it if required.
I didn't mask off the the bottom of the tub
when I sprayed the colour on and the finish is quite good where I have sprayed over the stone ship.You can get it on ebay £30 for 6x1 litre cans. Just make sure not to get the textured, unless that is what you want. Also comes it white.
-
I've seen a pheasant take the windscreen of a defender out completely seal and all. That was on the defeder we used as our game cart. The shoot captain was very cold for the rest of that day.
-
Me - mask, goggles, gloves, hood, and although I could not smell the heavy vapours in the mask (proper 3M jobbie) I could still feel the effect.
So every new tin was taken outside to shake for two minutes, and it was mask off, deep breaths and then back in properly oxygenated. Its really nasty nasty stuff that tinned paint and I dont enjoy doing it at all. Its now drying and I may be able to lift it onto my LR roof in the next couple of days, depending on the number of neighbours I can draft in to help lift it.
I used a filter mask for my re-spray made by Gerson. It claims to ok for use with even 2k paints, although, I wouldn't risk it. It worked fine with cellulose though. couldn't smell or feel any effects. They're not expensive either, about £15 on ebay. Mine lasted the entire re-spray too before the filters got too blocked.
Great build, have been following it with interest. Eventually hope to do something similar with mine. Just need to get it running right first!
-
To remove or not to remove?
Just setting the torques on the swivels and thinking it would be much easier with the mud guards remove, so, do I bother putting them back on or not?
-
Tried all sorts to get it out but it's not playing. The axle needs a few things doing to it and I figured whilst I have the hub in bits I may as well do the wheel bearings etc so I decided it probably easier and quicker to swap the axle. Managed to source a later 24 spline axle for less than I think it would cost me to sort all the things on mine.
Thanks for the replies though gents.
-
No, can't get it to budge at all. It's 1988 so no, no abs.
Wasn't noticing any bump steer, but I'm not sure driving it is the best idea either. All I had noticed was what felt like the wheels being unbalanced. But none of the weights were missing so I looked for other causes and found the play in the wheel.
-
I noticed a bit of a shake on the steering the other day so began inspecting the various causes and eventually found that the wheel is pivoting about the swivel ball when you shake the wheel at 6 and 12.
I've read the threads about removing the shims which I have tried to do but I cannot get the swivel pin out. It is well and truly stuck. Are there any trick/tips to removing them?
Also there is about 5mm of deflection, is it safe to continue driving until I can get it sorted? If it ends up being a new swivel ball given the time of year it may be a couple of weeks before I get round to it.
Cheers,
Rich
-
I entered and I would have done the same.
I think it looks fugly! Terrible paint scheme and loads of stuff I don't want. I already have my Landy well on the way to how I want it so rather than take someone elses idea of the ideal landy and start again, why not sell it to fund completion of mine?
Rich
-
Mine does it off and on, sometimes bad, other times not so bad (totally unrelated to weather!) and has being doing this for over a decade.
When its unbearable I simply stuff a J-cloth in the inside gutter bit above the window, trail the tail down and out the window (open a crack) and as you drive the wet end outside gets dried and the water wicks down from the inside and gets sooked out. Simple and effective and totally ludicrous.
This is the same method I use. I wasn't brave enough to post it, I thought I'd get lots of these
-
Sorry, I have tried to send the pics, I'll check they're not in my outbox or that I've got the emai address correct.
The pump fitting won't help though because the mounting brackets are different I believe. The 200tdi one is part of the casting itself.
what aint broke, dont need fixin
.
when I sprayed the colour on and the finish is quite good where I have sprayed over the stone ship.
Fuel Cap Fuel Leak
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I have an annoying fuel leak on the filler cap.
Originally I though it was the cap itself that wasn't sealing and being rather old I replaced it, but it's still happening with the new one.
When the tank is full, fuel sloshes agaist the cap and it leaks out of the keyhole. There is no baffle in the filler, or anti syphon or anything, just a straight pipe to the tank. So am I missing a part, or if not does anone know of a baffle or antisyphon device that I could fit to stop the fuel leakig out of the cap?
The other option is not to fill the tank, but its a rather annoying limitation becuase the tank could only ever be filled to about 3/4. I'm sure a baffle in the filler would stop it.