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minivin

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Posts posted by minivin

  1. A few years back i used to own 48GT28, which was (looking like yours) a 109" soft top 12v CL (civilian spec) rover.

    it was DPM paint, but every other aspect was civilian, even down to the little touches like a rotten chassis!

    I sold it to my sisters (then) boyfriend. i think it got scrapped after a while.

    it's not just the civilian spec that have rotten chassis, this one had a rear cross member that was ready to fall off ;)

    There seems to be this logic that chequerplate is less skiddy than anything else, I find its actually worse, those little raised bits don't act as non-slip quite the reverse they reduce the friction surface with your shoe. Also it soon gets a slimy algae-layer on it which is lethal when wet. If you want non-slip then paint the surface with an aggregate paint such as they use on aircraft wing-walkways.

    there are arguements either way, but one arguement which is also comparable to tyre design is that a flat surface develops a layer of water in wet conditions that does not easily part when you want another object to touch it ie shoe. However a surface with "lumps" means that most water being able to be pushed into the troughs when another item is put on it, hence why a tyre with knobbles does not suffer from as much aqua-planing unlike a slick tyre :)

    algae will develop were ever it likes, MIL paint certainly doesn't stop it's development as my bumperettes had a nice layer when I first purchased the "shed" ;)

    non-slip paint is only paint-on sand paper, sand papering my arse when ever I walk past it does not quite enfuse me with the idea of slapping it on :lol:

  2. Rob - you're new to LR wiring aren't ya :lol:

    LR yes, but Messr Wipac, Messr Miller and Messr Lucas, 8 years of experience and climbing, so many parts commonal between different manufacturers and even types of vehicle (bikes, cars et cetera), Lucas metal brake light switch being a good one from the 60's where they swapped the internals around after removing a rivet pin to change it from N/C too N/O, same package and parts, different number stamped on it. Even the top of the range vehicle manufacturers brought the common stuff from Lucas et cetera as it kept their costs down (Lucas F700 BPF head Lamps, standard D-type dynamos, standard regulator packages, it goes on). ;)

  3. Rover V8 to Series conversion parts, gearbox mounting brackets, a series headlamp surround and the straps for the military rear hitch expedition tools, and maybe the tools to go with it ;)

    Does anyone know the difference between the V8 mounting brackets for a series conversion and a TDi defender chassis (ie, when you need to chop the series chassis to drop a TDi in), as I don't fancy bying defender bits that don't fit a series, just like the Defender canvas that a person sold me as a "series" canvas for £100 cash at Sodbury the last time, the bast<line cut> :rolleyes:

  4. Yeah but I'm after a 90 one - using 90 switchgear, and a 90 wiper motor, if I use the 90 timer unit then I can just wire it up per the 90 wiring diagram - simple!

    If I cant find one at sodbury then I'll think about the vwp one.

    Jon

    would think the component is a standard package with standardised pin allocations, Land Rover or BL wouldn't have commissioned Lucas or made themselves a different item. Good luck ;)

  5. reading through the series parts list last night, as I need to order some bearings and thrust washers for a LT77 / series TC conversion, that the 1Ton bits are listed, shown, and quite often listed as an optional extra for other vehicles excluding the 1Ton which of course would have had them standard.

    How far "Optional Extra" goes with "yeah just swap these bits and job done geezer" is another matter

  6. my favourite company on such matters:

    Vehicle Wiring Products

    Under this page:

    Relays

    You will find the following chart:

    Terminal reference guide.

    U.K. Euro. French.

    Supply X,B,+ 15,49 +

    Earth -,E 31 31

    Ind switch L 49a C, COMM

    Vehicle w/lamp P C R, Rep

    Trailer w/lamp C2

    but this forum don't do true-text so off to they there website be you!!!

  7. sounds like the start of a guess the object competition to me...! So, come on, answers on a postcard, I'll post the solution on Wednesday.

    McS

    it was devized during the gulf war as the yanks had a tendency to shot anything that moved, the previous Gulf War 1 had them putting painted black arrows on vehicles or white cloth crosses on the tanks but that made for perfect targets.

    For GW2 some cunning chap come up with these devizes which were stuck on the sides of the vehicles, which IIRC when viewed through InfraRed Goggles looked really bright, which during night opps would hopefully stop the tank-buster A10 et cetera busting open British tanks again

  8. Not the only one then, had an arguement with a regular over there about wiring philosphy, didn't let the prat know that I was an aircraft avionics designer with all the standards and information I could ever care about such topics sat by me on my desk. Don't go there anymore :angry:

  9. So you broke into several small groups to minimise the envornmental and visual impact did you. Good boys :)

    It would seem that my knowledge of true greenlaning practices are obviously flawed, so I have taken to looking at photo's else where within this forum. And they have been most educating!

    Firstly I have learnt, when in a forest, floor-it and throw mud from those tyres, this is obviously a good tactic for the environment, afterall it helps to spread the soil into those tree's where the soil must be poor from lack of light.

    Secondly, I have learnt, when it has rained for three days with torrential force, go green laning and find a river that is so swollen it has risen by easily ten feet and covered the track in three feet of water hey! all those petrol stations moaning about blocked jet washers due to us dumping a ton of mud when ever we use their facilities, thats sorted their problems and all is happy!

    thirdly, I was reminded of the importance once again when in a forest, leave the track and get it stuck in the drain at the side and require strops fitted at the back to pull you back on the track afterall, those drains only stop the track filling with water, and thats BAD!!!!!!

    I was starting to tire as my brain was overflowing with such knowledge and grateful for such pictures being posted on this forum for everyone and hopeful that the anti mob will also see these photo's to show them that we only have the environment at heart :lol:

  10. When you replace the wiring loom, don't bother trying to get it back inside the chassis, just fix it to the top of the chassis rail. with zip ties or similar.

    Les. :)

    I did it with P-clips and 2BA stainless screws, sent the brake line down the top of the chassis as well :)

  11. Folan V1000, the Britten - possibly the most beautiful thing ever made, Vincent series C or Black shadow, TVR Cebera in yellow...

    Yeah, Britten Any day, however not being able to afford a Black Shadow I make do with a Series C Comet and a Egli-Vincent 500 Comet racer :rolleyes: two cylinders between them, and they go around corners better than any vinny twin will ever do!

    Keep looking at Laverda Jota 180's at the moment, not to mention AJS Model 18S Scramblers, BSA Rocket Goldstars, AJS 7R Boy Racers, 18S looks like the next project build B)

  12. so you ARE going to get it muddy then Rob? or will it be for decoration like mine?!! :P

    P.S. Tonk made me post this!

    well, it's going to be a year before I get the chance to fit a winch, so in that time I should be happy enough to start getting it stuck and minimise the damage to my wallet

    :)

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