Phantom
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Posts posted by Phantom
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Quote -On 23/01/2018 at 10:23 AM, mmgemini said:
Me I do recovery DIFFERENT to everybody else. I recover from the axles. That way you don't pull the body and chassis from the axles
Mike, I agree that the axle is a good place to pull from. However, most 4x4s I end up recovering at play days generally have their axles very well buried/submerged in the mud. If they don't have suitable accessible recovery points fitted I invite the driver to attach my strap around the axle themselves. They're not often that keen on the idea despite my suggestion that they could always stay in there. Although the look on their faces is priceless I've learned not to trust what they THINK they've attached to.
I had a Jeep Cherokee driver attach the strap to his steering bar last year. Needless to say it didn't end well for him, and this of course leads to getting the blame for his truck getting damaged!So I guess you can understand why I like strong bumpers with integral recovery points on an offroader.
This is how the idiots roll. Not even a towbar if I recall.
- QuoteRecovering using axles, seriously?? Your really asking for trouble, the high potential stresses and damage to suspension bushes and joints, if you don’t rip an axle off the stuck vehicle during a heavy recovery how do you think it’s going to drive after??
You won’t find the above technique in any borda or lantra training manuals ( for a reason! ) .
It scares me how poor, inappropriate and bordering dangerous some ‘advice’ on the net is.
If your not sure, go and get trained by a professional before you damage your vehicle; or worse, hurt someone ( btw, I’m a qualified borda instructor ).
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While driving, the car developed a screeching noise like a slipping belt noise,but the noise goes away if the car is put in neutral while moving and there is no noise when stationary and reving the engine
The noise is only there in drive and increases with the revs
Any ideas what it could be
Exhaust manifold probably warped and pulled a head stud or two out, take the main engine cover off and see if you can spy any soot around the metal manifold gasket. You get a 'screeching' from the gap when under load. Pull the manifold off, get it machined flat, replace studs and refit with new gasket
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99% sure you need a new switch
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Chuck a discovery transfere box in, about 15% higher gearing ( all the lt230s low range are the same so no issues off road )
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Get some decent quality shoes, 99% sure that's your problem
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Used both the XP and the bow2 on 8274's - both big improvement over standard
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Hi all, me again
now I have pretty much scrapped the idea of resurrecting the old unit (which I believe to be a wireless receiver) does anyone know of a good wireless system that will work with a 7 wired warn winch. Most wireless controllers only seem to like to work with the 5 wired system which is annoying.
So over to you guys again. Cheers
Rich
Warn do there own wireless system which obviously works with the warn contactor pack, or pop a Albright on and use one of the cheaper wireless remotes ( the Albright contactor is much more reliable than the warn 4-pack so is a good up-grade )
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I had exactly the same on a customers V8 D2, popped a CPS on and away she went, worth a try
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Last one I fixed was a failed head
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I have a Detroit "TRULOCK" in my front (helically geared type) axle and a conventional Detroit LOCKER in the Rear, both axles having beefed up Ashcrosft drive shafts. I seldom have to lock the centre differential and you wouldnt know the two axles were limited slip differentials, I can only tell when the rears squeal if I go around a small round-about.
As the front is helically geared it works exacly as a conventional differential excepting both wheels will always drive, even if more power is going to one of the front wheels which gives excelent drive and allows for going around sharp corners.
I much prefer full lockers ( ARB or ASH ) where the driver is in control and not the transmission, have you ever driven a 4x4 with a Detroit in the rear across wet grass, oh that would be under steer, and more under steer
. Open diffs with the ability to lock as required work! -
Plasma cutter and clamp a wood straight edge to the job for your guide
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Are you sure there different bolt sizes for the older send later style of cailipers??, they are on earlier RR's, imperial and then later metric, didn't think the discos 1's were? I in no way want to sound a kill- joy but ' DIY modified brakes' and then an accident , you'll have the book thrown at you
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Only obvious problem with modifying calipers is the legality , can't you source a set of later style calipers and fit, least that way your not drilling and potentially weakening the pad retaining holes
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Billet bearings have been available for a number of years. Is the gearbox bearing guide ok? I do a lot of clutches and every now and again your'll find a heavily worn guide ( sometimes a very pronounced step in the alloy tube ) and the bearing dos'nt sit true on the clutch pressure plate and consequently reduces drastically the longevity of the bearing.
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Hi all
I have a Disco 2, 7 seat TD5, 1999 ES with 130k miles on the clock.
When accelerating on normal roads and going through the gears, if you reach 3k revs the engine starts to 'judder' and hold back a bit.
I have been advise that it could be the turbo on it's way out, if so can anyone suggets which make/type of turbo to replace it with or can anyone suggets a different reason for the 'juddering'?
Thanx
Check your waste- gate is not seized
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Lr part number is rtc3429, spec oem or g for better quality
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And don't forget the gramma and speling police!!
;) not sure what you mean..........................'I iz gonna b a'
On a serious note, too much slagging off other people’s vehicles and parts suppliers for my liking, but that’s just my opinion
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Dodgy earth
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off the pre-wired led light you might have picked the wrong wire for the earth, seen a few led units and sometimes its not obvious which is the earth ( not black and no wiring diagram in the kit )
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Sticks probably too aggressive , mig's the one
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My clutch pedal has gone rock solid and I can't depress it the landy does drive but I have to change gear with out using the clutch.
Has the clutch gone?? Or is it something else??
It's a 300tdi with a r380 box
Prob clutch fork failed
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Fit a disco 1 drop arm and drag link, loose the naff defender ball joint kit
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under the boot floor carpet you'll find a round inspection cover ( located centrally in floor ), pop that off, underneath is the fuel pump assembly, twist the locking ring off and after disconnecting the elec plug and four fuel lines pull out the pump - theres you fuel.....................good luck
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Rear diff, just fitted a new Ashcroft unit to a customers 110 td5, 2006 with 30k on the clock, progressively louder howling as you accelerated , I understand it's quite common with this era of 110
. Open diffs with the ability to lock as required work!
;)
Recovery straps
in International Forum
Posted · Edited by Phantom
As well as the normal recovery kit I carry one or two small shackles ( normal LR sizes are sometimes too big for modern cars tow eyes ) and also a sacrificial rope for joining strops/tow ropes to awkward points or vehicles without eyes, it’s come in handy a few times!