Phantom
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Posts posted by Phantom
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Absolutely, also not forgetting these ‘radius arms / mental strong things’ are ultimately attached to the 3mm chassis via metalastic or polyurethane bushes – all ‘R & D’ for the huge loads and stress’s of a recovery???? I doubt it.
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But it’s not just about 3mm of chassis, it’s about a tested and professionally fitted (using correct nuts, bolts, spreader plates etc) recovery point on your chassis - I for one have never had a failure on my vehicles. I've have seen a few 'interesting' designs and I choose not to attach my vehicle / rope / winch anywhere near them, we've all watched in horror as vehicles 'snatch' each other with incorrect kit, poor technique and a complete disregard for safety.
Never been in too much of a hurry, as I said in one of my earlier posts, I believe in common sense and experience
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Amazing how a simple question on the length of a tow rope has turned into an off-road testosterone argument
You can use an axle for recovery (brake lines on a rear axle will only be in danger if you wrap the axle - rather than hoop it). I suspect that the reason that the rear axle is rarely used as a recovery point is because in a stuck situation you can't get at the thing because it's under water/buried in mud, so the next thing is the rear crossmember or perhaps the jate rings. A standard rear crossmember isn't really designed to take the loading that's sometimes required in a recovery situation, but it's as near as dammit in most situations, so generally manages the job.
Radius arms are mental strong things and the chassis and axle connections are just the same - I see no reason that the axle can't be used for recovery. Similarly - the rear recovery on the crossmember or even the jate rings are equally strong.
Les
Don’t agree.
Recovery points are designed and fitted to the chassis for a reason. You could use the axles, you could use numerous points of the vehicle, doesn’t make it right, safe or logical.
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Prime a couple of times, leave it to cycle each time for 5mins, then when you spin her over put the throttle to the floor, should go.......
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Oh dear. Another worthless post by Mike...No please
x 2
I mainly use air at my workshop, but for mobile needs I own a couple of Snap-on 1/2 inch cordless impact guns, very good and never had any issues. Stating the obvious carry a second battery
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Now that's an idea that might catch on...............
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Not sure about 'different axles to me' , I run a 4x4 specialist garage ( island4x4.net ) and I'm also a BORDA trained instructor........I think we're on different planets!
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The axles are linked to the chassis via radius arms, 'A' frames and panard rods etc, 99% of the time utilising metalastic bushes. I would be very surprised if these bushes were either designed or strong enough for recovery. As I said earlier your 90 would soon be a 110!
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Why do you need a recovery point on an axle ? Wrap the cordage round the axle...
Yes Defender axles do have recovery points fitted. Look at the red Ibex featured many years ago with the axle fitted for recovery ....
'Cordage round the axle.......' Is that under or over the brake lines? What about spinning wheels and ropes in a close proximity? I'm sorry but you'd never catch me using this 'technique'.
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Somebody PLEASE..The vid or pics of the blue 90 stuck in mud with the chassis pulled from the axles....
I would suggest the vehicle in question had other issues, how many recovery points do you see on axle's? I for one have never.
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Mike. Yes but I meant the rusted 1.5 mm steel LOL
My front recovery eyes sre bolted at each chassis reail ny 10mm 12.5 bolts and 2 half inch S grade bolts to give a good spread along the chassis
At the rear by screws into the cross member and again along the chassis rails as well as the two screws that would hold the twoing eye....
There again I don't use 8,000 kg cordage with 2,000 kg shackles. Should I need to recover somebody then I make sure that my straps are rater and rated below the rated shackles with sacrificial rope at each of the two shackles.
Incidently.
You should really recover from the axles otherwise you take the risk of pulling the chassis away from the axles.
Not sure about the last statement, you might find your 90 soon becomes a 110.................
The most important factors in a recovery are common sense and experience
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Had a customer up the other day, I MOT'd his freelander - 05 plate, 1.8k series, its had 3 new engines and 5 head gaskets under LR warrenty...........buy anything but a 1.8. A few years ago I worked in a garage next to a LR maindealers, freelanders were new on the scene, we had our first 1.8 / head gasket issue booked in, I phoned next door and asked the head of service if there was anything unusaul with this, he started laughing.........buy anything but a 1.8
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Seen this 3 times before on customers 200 disco's, all in the 12v feed from battery - ' high resistance joints' - must be old age!
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Had numerous 90's, Inc 200's,300's and td5s. I brought a brand new santorini black xs 90 last year, dash defiantly a improvement, six speed was nice but I didn't think the puma lump was fantastic, I guess spoilt with tuned td5's. The car had terrible paint work, 'dry' flat areas and lots of orange peel - so bad you could feel it if you ran your hand over the panels. The worst bit was the rust on the rear o/s panel ( small angled piece just below the capping ) - on a brand new car!!!!!!! main dealer offered to get the paint work sorted, but I didn't spend 30k on a motor to then have it repainted, it went back. At the time I was running a 300, so I kept that ( still got her ) and wandered over to a ford main dealer and came out with a focus rs
( paint amazing - maybe ford could give land rover a few tips!) -
My Ski looks cool on the back
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It was a 'private' ambulance with a deceased onboard.....................well i think they were??
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Towed a 9 meter RIB ( Cowes inshore lifeboat ) to Southampton boat show, it was so big I had a police escort,
Dragged/recovered a removals lorry that had slipped and lent itself against the house it was delivering too.....
Get called out regulary to recover stuck 4x4's all over the island, when it snowed 2010 I assisted / towed about 60 cars / vans etc in 24 hours, including a ambulance and hearse who both needed towing in the snow to the local crematorium - with 'cargo' on-board!
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Looks innocent enough but I'd got serious transmission wind up and the gearboxes were jammed solid. Dragging a dead 110 from a stinking swamp with the wheels not turning was no mean feat!
Will
I don’t profess to being particularly clever or an off-road guru (although I’ve got muddy once or twice) but what does the above mean? Never heard of ‘ serious transmission wind up and jammed gearbox’s??????
Regards
Lee
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Got a D2 Td5, when you start her up she's 'lumpy'and won't rev in any way what ever you do with the throttle ( Hot and cold ). After a wait, 20 seconds, sometimes a minute you can hear the engine note change and she rev's and drives fine.
Today I popped a fuel pump in her, new fuel pump relay, new filter, new MAF sensor( also tried the old one unplugged ) and pulled out the ECU and injection harness ( no oil in either ). Plugged into Hawkeye and no faults.
You can leave her for an hour or start her immeadiatly after stopping the engine and every time she won't rev, until the engine note changes and then all OK
What to do next?
Thanks in advance
Lee
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TD5 discovery - been getting worse and worse to start, then started losing power. Today would only start after 5 mins of turning over and playing with the throttle pedal.
So, checked the injection harness loom - dry as a bone, removed the fuel pump and fitted a new unit, also popped a new filter on and purged the fuel system. She started on the first turn. However after a 5 mile run and numerous stop / starts ( perfect ) I then left the vehicle for 10 mins. Won't start, Doh!
Any ideas?
Thanks
Lee
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Bet it's an earth issue, check your earths, clean contacts, add a extra earth to the misbehaving areas etc
Good luck!
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All together now "It has to be fit for purpose!" regardless of the price.
So take a wheel bearing for a defender / discovery ( RTC3429 ), for the cheapest 'copy' part it trades at about £2 - that's the same from Allmakes, Bearmach and Britpart etc etc. Would you really fit it to your motor and expect it to have longevity and reliability? Maybe rely on it as you cross the Alps or a Safari in the Moroccan desert or even a local winch comp??
‘ Fit for purpose, of satisfactory quality, sale of goods act ‘ - whatever, would you really??
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If you buy your weekly shop at Somerfields and expect it to taste like M & S , who's the fool?
You pays your money...............
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2004 TD5, getting was progressively harder to start………
Spins over fine, checked the injection harness loom and no oil contamination.
Got her running by purging the fuel system a couple of times but after about 1 mile running she looses power and cuts out. Will start again after 5 mins but runs rough / missing and then cuts out. Popped a new fuel pump in her this afternoon and also a new fuel filter – no different!
Hawkeye shows no stored faults.
Help!
Lee
( paint amazing - maybe ford could give land rover a few tips!)
300tdi Fuel problem
in Discovery Forum
Posted
Have you ( carefully ) cracked off all the injectors with her running, you getting fuel out of all of them? If you can get hold of a spare set just swap them out to check.