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Posts posted by Phantom
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Thanks for all your replys - appreciate the links
Lee
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Chichester Off Road Experience once a month...........never been but heard good reviews...
www.core4x4.co.uk
Rob
Thanks for that Rob.
Anywhere else ??
Regards
Lee
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Thanks for that Steve - been to Boxgrove a couple of times and I'm sure we'll pop back this coming winter. Must admit we really enjoyed Rusper ( near Gatwick ) lots of people were having to winch around the car park, traction was limited........... shame it closed.
Thanks
Lee
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Just after some advice / recommendations on new Offroad sites in and around the south coast. Myself and a few mates live on the Isle of Wight and regularly travel to local Pay & Play sites inc Slindon, Broxhead , Slab, Minstead, and Brick Kiln. Can anyone suggest anywhere else? - don’t mind travelling within reason, say up to 75 / 100 miles. Prefer the more challenging terrain. Thanks in advance.
Lee
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Bah... All the Detroit haters have never used one.
I've had one for two years and I'm still waiting in anticipation for the "bad" things to happen. It just works. You can't even tell it is there other than you just drive up everything that the normal people can't.... I've had zero bad handling. Nothing strange has happened in a corner or on a side slope.
Having run Detroits in a 90 and a Discovery I have to again disagree. The fact that the Detroit is a ‘unlocker’ in limited traction situations you get massive amounts of under steer. The ability to select when your diff locks ie. ARBs / KAMs is a far better option.
Lee
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Fit ARB's - do it right the first time!
Lee
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The nikon D40 and D60 seem to be popular so i will start to shop arround,you will know when i have it as the web site will start to improve,
Carl.
I purchased a D80 last year - very impressed. Don't think your'l go wrong with a Nikon.
Good luck
Lee
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I've got about a dozen old disco / RR alloys - phoned the local scrappy and was told 70p a KG. I'm on the IOW and he's the only scrap yard...............
Lee
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I would probably be inclided to fit the pins where they were going, then put a blob of paint on each one, and close the bonnet onto them. This marks the underside of the bonnet, allowing you to drill a single hole, big enough for the pin to come through.
Assuming you have the templates, these can then be marked up with the pin centreline, if it is not already, and the layout transferred to the bonnet (sharpie markers are your friend...)
How to cut it? I would probably use 2 hole saws, and join resulting holes with the jigsaw....
hth
Mark
I'm with Mark, I fitted the pins and put a blob of tippex on the pin tops - close one bonnet........and drill some holes
Lee
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Yes I believe the Testbook machine will read all the codes off for an EDC model Disco.
Can't think of anything else that wouldn't show up a fault.
From your foot you've got the pedal and the throttle potentiometer - I guess that could be at fault but I would expect a CEL. Then you've got the ECU, then you've got the FIP. On that side of things there isn't much more. I'm not sure if there are any sensors or the like?
On a cold day a "normal" EDC disco has no power on start up - mine didn't and I've had 5 or 6 people confirm theirs is the same, 5 seconds or so later full power is there. It's weird as it isn't even like it's struggling, there is no smoke it just doesn't go. It's not too noticeable if you park on the flat, but I've got quite a steep drive and you have to leave it a few seconds before it will drive up. It sounds like yours is similar but it's not returning to normal?
For my sin’s I’ve driven 100’s of tdi’s - mines defiantly got a power problem! Its got the ‘refusing to move syndrome’ when cold but even when up to full operating temp I have to hold it in all the gears, foot on the floor to reach 50 mph! I’m thinking of fitting a mechanical FIP…..
Thanks again for your advice so far
Lee
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Do you recon a main dealers testbook would talk to the EDC system and show any faults up? Also is there a likely component in the EDC that would cause my lack of power other than the FIP.
Thanks for your replies so far
Lee
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Help………….
Just purchased a D1 ‘97’ 300tdi auto with EDC.
The head gasket had failed between 2 & 3 - new gasket popped on last week.
However, once the vehicle was running another fault became apparent……no power. When started cold you can put the throttle pedal on the floor and the vehicle will very slowly pull away, performance slightly improves once some temperature builds up but hills are a bit of an issue! A mate of mine has the same set up in his disco - auto/edc and it’s a different beast with loads of power.
Since last week I’ve checked / replaced the following:-
Checked timing and fitted new cam belt, tensioner & idler
New fuel lift pump
New air and fuel filters
Drained rear water trap
Blown through fuel lines
Removed and cleaned / checked all intercooler pipes and checked intercooler for blockages
Cracked off ( carefully ! ) injectors whilst engine is running and all create a ‘miss’ when undone
Confirmed waste gate link is connected
When rev’ed the turbo pipes harden and with the top intercooler pipe removed a high volume of air is emitted
Ran the vehicle with the AFM disconnected - no change
Checked for any loom / wiring breaks
And………not sure what to do next?
When rev’ed either in park or driving I’ve never seen any unburnt fuel or black smoke out of the exhaust unlike every other tdi I’ve owned - I’m guessing it’s a lack of fuelling - but with the EDC controlling the fuel??
Thanks in advance
Lee
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Let me think.......................................
AUTO!
It's a no brainer, drive assist when winching is so easy and no burnt clutch's
Lee
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Are you positive its a 35 ................. easy confused with a Chrysler 8.25 ................ and they are renowned for pinion bearing failure.
On our Cherokee mine uttered noises of protest at 80K ........................
A word of warning ......... buy the bearings from BSL etc .............. jeep prices are prohibitive ............. 2 carrier bearings, 2 pinion bearings, two oil seals and the crush washer ........... thats £470 sir !
Certainly the 8.25 is not difficult, but you do need to make up a special tool to adjust the carrier bearing preload..........
Ian
I'm positive its a 35, got an overhaul kit already - anything I need to worry about..............???????
Regards
Lee
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Help please.........
I've got to rebuild / repair a Dana 35 axle on the rear of a Jeep ( Sorry I know it's not LR...........)
The pinion bearings have loads of play, you can grab the rear prop and get about 25mm of lateral movement - and of course the associated noise's and whine's when driving.
Any tips / advice / special tools req etc etc???
Thanks in advance
Lee
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I might be opening up a can of worms??? But which motor would people recomend to replace the origional motor on my 8274-50? xp 6hp or a bowmotor? got twin batteries and 100 amp alternator.
Thanks in advance
Ben
The XP 6hp is excellent, been using them for a few years now with no problems. Never tried a bow-motor but read a few bad reviews.
Lee
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i dont really think that's fair comment as such. yes the other companies can make the improvements, but why cant Matt Lee make the same improvements to his own product? If it cracks, someone makes a stronger version, why isnt he also making a stronger version?? No excuse as far as I see it other than keeping margins as low as possible and people putting stock in a brand name.
I also think there is no excuse for the Mach 5s to have not been made well enough to pass E marking or TUV accreditation when all the others seemingly do.
I would call it shooting oneself in the foot personally
At least the consumer is no longer losing out on a good product, even if it comes by another name.
Early Mach 5's did have cracking issues - mine included. The wheels were improved and stenghtened a few years ago. Mine were replaced FOC - no quibbles.
Lee
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11mm on the front, Giggled/twin XP's and not snapped it yet, it will however pull trees down................
Rear 9.5mm - mainly the smaller size for quantity on the drum ( Warn XP )
A have snapped 9.5mm in the past and seen it snapped by numerous other users - 11 or 12 is the way to go
Lee
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where did the 12v truck tipper pack come from? Was it expensive? I'd like one for a little project i've dreamt up but all those that come up on ebay seem to either be very big or very expensive!
Great bender - I purchased one last summer and have been very impressed with the results.
Lee
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I've run a couple of LR's with front and rear winches - and used them simultaneously on numerous occasions, more than I ever thought I would. Not forgetting if you run the same winches / motors you’ve always got spares.
Lee
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the castle nut on my S3 SWB front hub bearing is domed and has no "flats" so according to the manual it must be a 109. I bought a standard SWB bearing kit, which doesn't fit! the inner bearing track is too wide, the outer one is too small! the ones I am trying to replace are the same diameter. what type of hub have I got, 109 or 88???
The earlier Series ran with the differing sized hub bearings, then were changed to identical inner and outer bearings - 'RTC 3429' x 2 same as most late LR's.
Lee
Gearbox adaptor tool for removal
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
Hi Pete
Are you working on the floor or do you have access to a ramp?
Regards
Lee