jagwit

Today I installed the engine... ... and found that those protruding head studs interfere with the aftermarket exhaust manifold flanges. @Old Hand: I certainly can import stuff, and have, but it takes a long time, freight is very costly and our banana republic currency combined with an overzealous customs authority does not help.

Well, this work was done in South Africa where we don't have ample supplies of Time-serts, Big-serts etc. My engineer had to MAKE his own inserts from M16 high tensile threaded rod... This took many hours of work and cost me quite a bit in the end.

Trouble with these forums is that there is often so much speculation going on with little substantiating facts. ARP instructions say the studs should be turned in hand tight only. I doubt very much (see now I'm speculating) that the studs rotate when torqueing the heads. This would require the studs effectively stripping the top threads. Personally I am not concerned about the stud ripping out a chunk of block although I can see how this might happen. The forces are too localised around those threads.

Let's get some facts then. Those who have blocks lying around, please take the standard long head bolt and measure how far it can screw into a 3.9/4.2/4.6 block and report here please? This single aspect almost requires a thread of its own?

Not sure where "almost" comes from. I used the word "most" :-) My suspicion that the block is weak is based on the fact that the heads on this motor had been skimmed to the extent that the Thor inlet manifold also had to be skimmed to make it fit. This meant the motor had been worked on before and these heads had been fitted at least once before (other than in the factory). There can be no other explanation as to why the studs pulled on this motor and not on the other engine I built (which definitely had not been opened before). Gents, please understand that I'm NOT saying that these studs won't work. Like I said, they did work on the 4.6 I built for my Disco2. I am saying that I believe the amount of coarse thread to be MARGINAL and thus I consider this kit RISKY to use as is on the Rover V8, more so if the block had been subjected to previous head fitments. I'm also saying that ARP would do well to bring out a kit for the modern Rover V8 that makes good use of the available thread in the block rather than offering a marginal coarse thread length (and without redundant studs). Finally, I'm not knocking ARP. I like the product and the concept. I'm just trying to spare my fellow Rover V8 builders tears. That block cost me GBP430 to have inserts installed to take the torque.

Hi there I am really keen to keep on using ARP head studs but I have just had a very bad experience with ARP kit 124-4003 which has led me to conclude that I should stick with the original stretch bolts - unless ARP would take note of this report and produce a new kit specially for modern Rover V8 engines. I have used ARP kit 124-4003 on a Land Rover 4.6 V8 block (alu) and almost all the studs pulled out the block when torqued to 80ftlbs as per ARP instructions. My torque wrench is most certainly correct and calibrated. I do suspect that this particular block had most likely experienced too many head fastening cycles rendering it weak as another Rover 4.6 I built with ARP studs did go well but I now consider the ARP solution most marginal for Rover V8 engines. What I found is this: 1) the 7/16-14 coarse end thread length for the block on the supplied studs is only 22mm (7/8"). The hole in the block for this thread is 41mm (1.6") and is threaded all the way. The coarse end could thus easily be 35mm(1.4") long for minimum stress load on the block thread. 2) the fine thread end of the studs protrude 12mm (just under 1/2") above the heads (see attached pics). The fine thread is therefore 1/2" longer than what it needs to be. 3) This means that the stud lengths can remain the same but the coarse end thread should be increased by 1/2" and the fine thread should be reduced by 7/16"; 4) The kit includes 2.75" studs for the older 3.5L engines which are not used on the more modern 3.9, 4.2 and 4.6L Rover V8 engines and can be deleted resulting in a more cost effective kit. (BTW, These particular studs should only have 7/8" coarse thread on the 3.5V8) 5) The original stretch bolts use 1.1" of the thread in the block (see pics) I suspect that somewhere in the manufacturing process, the lengths of the coarse and fine threads got swopped around. I wrote to ARP as follows: I recommend as follows: 1) Consider making a new kit for modern Rover V8 engines (3.9, 4.2 and 4.6) as follows: 6 x long studs 14 x short studs 2) The 7/16-14 coarse end thread should be 1.4" in length 3) the 7/16-20 fine end thread need not be longer than 9/16" 4) Overall stud lengths can remain the same.

I was hoping it would be a relatively simple change like replacing a spring or two here and there. The car is 100% standard down to tyres and will be used mainly in town with the occasional open road trip. Even in town there is enough torque to lock the convertor in 4th IMHO.

Hi Does anyone know if its possible to lower the torque convertor lock-up speed? If so, how? Mine locks at about 80km/h but I would like to lower that to around 60km/h.

Hi Chris The guy who did all this for me knew that the Disco ECU would create issues with the Defender coolant gauge and replaced the Defender coolant gauge with a mechanical coolant gauge (thermostatic gauge??) - those that work permanently. Is it possible that the ECU somehow knows that there is no coolant gauge connected to it making it report producing alarms 1 and 2?

These are the faults that are reported AFTER clearing all the faults. The only ones that could be affected by driving is 8 and 9 which I am not concerned about.

Hi guys This is a call to those who really know and understand the meaning of the faults reported by the TD5 engine management system (EMS) via my Hawkeye scanner: 3018 Coolant temp high 3034 Coolant temp fault 3066 Tacho drive open load logged (if ABS fitted) 3037 Gearbox/ABS o/p open load logged 3069 MI lamp drive open load 3070 Glow plug lamp drive open load logged 3099 Gearbox/ABS o/p open load active 3129 Road speed missing fault logged 3152 road speed missing 3174 Fault detected auto gearbox Not to lead you astray, the following: The above faults reported by my DEFENDER TD5, MANUAL Gearbox, no ABS I know that a service engineer loaded the "fuel maps" as for a "Disco 2, TD5 European spec, Auto" onto the EMS (which itself comes out of a Disco 2) and is now installed in my Defender. (The original EMS was not of the programmable type which is why it was replaced with the Disco EMS) The Disco 2, TD5 European spec, Auto spec fuel map was loaded onto my EMS knowing that this fuel map produces much more power than the grossly detuned "Defender Rest of World" fuel map that was on the original EMS. The above means that faults 3, 4, 7 and 10 can be explained not having the auto box connected to the ECU and not having ABS on the car - which is why I have them in green. When I view "Live data" the EMS reports engine coolant temp correctly, so I do not understand faults 1 and 2 The MI lamp and Glow plug lamps both work when tested with the output testing capability of Hawkeye. The glowplug lamp also comes on when the engine is cold. Faults 1 and 2 really has me baffled though. Why would these faults come up when the EMS gets a valid coolant reading from the engine?

According to Matt(http://tinyurl.com/6j6fxzf), based on Dave's MS config, the first tooth after the two missing teeth is at exactly 60deg BTDC.

I tried to figure out what the meaning is of "Trigger positions" 2, 17, 32, 47 of Dave's config read in conjunction with "Trigger angle" =60 in "spark settings" and thus to conclude where exactly 60deg BTDC would be but concluded that it would take substantial study - my energy levels too low for that...today. It is interesting that its not 0, 15, 30 and 45 though.

@Fridgefreezer: I want to use the original trigger wheel on the flywheel, not an aftermarket added trigger wheel @oldhand: I would appreciate your MSQ, I'll send you a PM with my email address. A timing light is of no use on the THOR!! It does not have timing marks on the crank pulley and no reference against the timing cover. I will attempt adding them while I build the engine. Unless someone comes with 100% accurate info on this thread, Plan B is to use a dial gauge to find TDC (add the timing marks) and to then check through the CPS hole to see where the missing teeth are....

Hi all I'm sure my question must have been asked before and the answer is here somewhere, but I did look and can not find it.... I'm implementing an MS2 on a Thor V8 and I want to use the OEM Crank Position Sensor for my trigger input and 4 coil outputs for wasted spark direct coil control. I know "the 2 missing teeth are at 60 degrees BTDC" but I need to understand more accurately than that exactly where that "60deg point" is. I'm sure you "squirters" will understand what I'm after. Eg: Is it (60BTDC exactly) in the centre of the first hole? Is it in the centre of the 2nd hole (ie exactly halfway between where the two missing teeth would have been)? Is it in the centre of the 3rd hole? Is it where the the first missing tooth would have been? Is it where the 2nd missing tooth would have been? Other? Best regards Philip Lochner South Africa My web site: www.jaguardiy.net

Thought I should report back that I fitted the PEL500110 and it works a treat. Engine temp now sits at just under 90degC on my VDO gauge whereas before it was sitting just above 100degC. Thanks for that info tempestV8!

A web link perhaps?

I had a look at the wiring diagram and found that the BECM is in direct control of the windows - there is no other electronic device between the BECM and the window motors. The current detect function therefore ought to reside in the BECM. I would bet a lot of money that such current detect circuitry is already there but (and here's another of my conspiracy theories) that LR decided to not offer this feature to "peg" the Disco under the Range Rover. My wife's flippin common Volvo has both 1-touch-up and 1-touch-down!! Why not the top-of-the-range Disco HUH LR??? Since posting my first thread, I've already designed a basic electronic circuit that will "hold-the-button-in-for-me". If there happens to be a child's neck in the window pressing window down button will override the 1-touch-up and will make the window go down - in theory....

Hi all The Disco2 has a feature where the windows will roll completely down with single touch of the down button. Winding it up requires the button be held in in order to wind the window up. @#$%#$^%!!! $#%^#$^#$^% !~!!!!! Now, does anyone know if there is a mod one can do to affect a "one touch up" function as well?? I would be quite happy if the up button became ONLY an "all the way up" function.

The main reasons I want to run mine at 83degC is: 1) I recon its hot enough - the difference in emissions etc to 88degC being academic most likely 2) have lots of reserve capacity in hot weather; 3) prevent wires and pipes from becoming brittle in that hot engine bay. Having said that... I have 83degC stats in my D1 4.6 under Megasquirt engine management. In really cool weather temps will hover around 83degC. Slightly warmer and we go to 85 - 88deg C. In really hot weather going up long hills with foot flat, I will see 100degC anyway BUT.... then the viscous fan will clutch in an bring temps down to 88degC at which point the fan clutches out again. So... It would seem that now I need a "cooler" viscous clutch...

OK, I figured it out!! File with pics attached. "A picture paints a thousand words" It seems one has to destructively remove the plastic cover under the latch mechanism to get access to the latch. It MIGHT be possible to insert a long flat screwdriver just into the right spot (as shown in the pics) but I only figured that out after breaking away the plastic cover. It is quite brittle and shatters into pieces when placed under strain so watch your eyes. Having removed the cover I found the reason my bonnet would not open: The cable had stretched, causing the O-ring tip of the cable to slip off the hook that releases the bonnet. Same thing would happen when O-ring eventually wears through. Having seen how the mechanism works, I now carry a pry-bar with me in the car until I get the replacement cable. I stick the bar through the grille, match up the tip with the hook and then push to the left. One might need a small light to see where the pry bar tip has to go in dark situations. Bonnet latch.pdf

Excellent info, thanks tempestv8

The Disco 2 has a plastic cover that covers everything up under there. Managed to get my hand into the grille and pull on the cable sheath whilst pressing down on the bonnet but no luck.

Hi All Bonnet release cable broke on my Disco2 facelift V8. Any ideas on how to get the bonnnet open to replace the cable. Same thing happened with my previous D2 but that happened when it was still under guarantee and workshop fixed it.

It seems that manufacturers are more determined than ever to keep independants out of their products - down to non-standard bulbs! With the D3 and D4, you can not even work on the car without lifting the body off the chassis. It is all designed to shorten the life span of the car of course, to prompt new sales in the ongoing chase after the god of money. Anyway, I should have the full D3 workshop manual (140Meg) by Sunday... :-)