jagwit

Thanks, I know you mean well but the idea of having to spend money to obtain this kind of info appalls me.

Can anyone help me with a D3 service schedule - the document that specifies what needs to be done during a service at a particular mileage? I also need the list of recommended lubricants and fluids please. Is there a "Rave CD" available for D3 like we have for D2?

FWIW: I fitted another TPS I had on hand and with no throttle got 0.78% and full throttle got 77% / 93%

Hi all Plugged in my "hawkeye" scanner into my '04 Disco 2 and found that the engine ECU and gearbox ECU's report different TPS position percentages. With no throttle they both report 0% but at full throttle: Engine: 78% Gearbox: 93% Is this a problem? Could this be why it sometimes does not want to shift to 4th below 60km/h? EDIT: Another question: Does replacing a TPS require re-calibration with Testbook?

Do you get different head gasket thicknesses for the TD5? I am told by my mechanic that I should get a head gasket "+2 notches" - meaning thicker by 2 notches, whatever that means. Can anyone shed any light on this matter please?

I have recently overhauled the 4.0 V8 that came out my 2004 Disco2. This engine had done 100 000Km. It was shocking to find that the very first lobe on the cam was "completely" worn away and others were beginning to show signs of wear. All the lifters were hollowed out on the cam contact side by about 0.45mm. Having fitted a new ( Kent H218 ) cam and lifters to the engine, and having installed it with the "cam lube" I got with the cams, I am now wondering what I have to do ito oils and additives to give my new cam/lifters the best chance of survival. I've come to the conclusion that the cam/lifter wear is due to the absence of ZDDP additives in modern oils, driven by emissions regulations. Have found this product: http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=121&pcid=1 Should I now add this to my engine with every oil change or should I use it only once with the first oil fill ? Or should I add a quantity of cam lube with every oil change?

The cylinder head on my Defender TD5 has cracked on #1. One option is to fit a new head and this may allow fitting the 18P head instead of the 10P head. I am told the 18P heads give better performance. Does anyone know how feasible this is?

My vision is certainly not 100% but I looked at the gaskets under a magnifying glass (with a light) and did not find any "top" on the gasket. I presume one must be able to just look at it and somehow know. Those metal rings around the head bolt holes must be the "tell" as to what side it is?

I'm afraid that does not help much as you could have the fingers pointing inwards in two ways as per the two pics.

Sorry, yes, its for the Rover V8, in this case a 4.0 ex Discovery 2 being converted to 4.6.

Please look at the attached pics and tell me which side is "top" as they are not marked. The two small holes on the "exhaust side" of the gasket (bottom of pic) covers the dipstick hole when applied the one way. Is that how one should tell which side is top. These are Britpart gaskets...

We'll know when I drain the oil on Sat. Car has done 105 000Km. I got it with 98 000Km. Most likely has not had an oil change yet.

My Disco 2 V8 Auto (2004) now has a new thing. All is normal when I start off from home with engine and gearbox cold. At some point though the gearbox will not shift up (eg 1st - 2nd) unless rpm is more than 2000rpm. Also, it will not shift into 4th unless I'm doing more than 80km/h and the torque convertor will not lock in 3rd either. I think this starts to happen when the gearbox oil reaches "operating temp" but when its cold it shifts as normal. Any ideas as to what could be causing this? I'll be replacing the oil and any filters that might be inside the sump. BR Philip

Just to be clear, are you saying that the rear door D2 inner door panel can be used as is on D1? I know eg that the D1 uses rods to open the rear door whereas the D2 uses a cable. I suspect the D2 door latch opening may have to be "squared up" to accomodate the D1 door latch?

Is it possible to fit Disco 2 door panels into a Disco 1? The D2 door panels have good speakers which I want to use in my Disco 1. The inside door handle seems a bit different.

It seems that the pre-facelift Disco 2 V8s (2000 - 2003) are fitted with engine oil coolers. My friend's pre-facelift car definitely has an engine oil cooler. Now I am contemplating retro-fitting the oil cooler. My 2004 facelifted D2 V8 ES (fitted with a 4.6) does not have an engine oil cooler. I have fitted a VDO oil temp gauge to my car (as well as a VDO coolant gauge) and found as follows on my 5000km trip through South Africa (Pretoria - East London - George - Pretoria): The oil temperature would rise to 100degC (+- 20degC ambient temp) with engine coolant constant at 98degC. Coming through the Karoo at 32degC, engine oil was at 110degC and would climb to 113degC with long uphills. I did not tow anything. So, now my question is, do the V8 really NEED an engine oil cooler? My observations seem to suggest that it is really not needed!

What is the best V8? The cheapest one? The most reliable one? The most economical one? The most powerful one? etc If you are going to fit another engine, fit the 4.6 and be done with it. They do have issues (so I'm told) but have yet to experience one having those issue myself - not that I have had very many 4.6s under my hands.

Oh, I should have added that you should also check that the diaphragm of the distributor is still OK. Pull the pipe off the top of the throttle body and suck on it hard as you can. You should then be able to block the pipe with your tongue and then it should hold the vacuum. This will only save you fuel on light throttle and it also assumes that the internal bits of the distributor is OK.

First thing to do is to check that the vacuum pipe from the plenum chamber to the fuel pressure regulator is connected and not leaking vacuum. Then, there is enough evidence that when a V8 goes that heavy on fuel, it is most likely the MAF (air flow sensor) that is not reading correctly. Replace it with one you know is good and then check your fuel consumption. They can be adjusted (if they still work) by turning the adjusting screw closed off behind an aluminium plug. This is best done with a wideband oxygen sensor like the Innovate LC-1. AFR at idle should be around 13.5. CO meters are junk (IMHO) If that does not improve your fuel consumption (and power) then you need to investigate the coolant temperature sensor. If that goes open loop the ECU will think your engine is ice cold and will enrich the fuel mixture as for a very cold engine. This is the sensor with two pins. It should read around 300 Ohm when hot. Also make sure the connector is plugged in properly.

I found the attached information in the manual.

Yep, about where the engine meets the 'box. But they are high up on the transmission tunnel and they dont stick out far either, so dont look for any kind of pipe. They are more of a protrusion than a pipe.

I found my sunroof leak!! The Air con drain pipes were blocked Thanks to all who helped.

Yesterday, I again got stranded without fuel - this was the 2nd time. This time I noted when the fuel warning light came on. Two (2) km's later the car died!! A friend brought me 10L of fuel. This lifted the gauge to just above 1/4!! I then topped up at the nearest filling station (about 16km from where I was) and it took 82L. My gauge works like this: 220 Km from "above full" (tank filled to the brim) to full (needle exactly on the full mark 50 km from full to 3/4 150km from 3/4 to 1/4 Is this inaccurate fuel gauge typical of D2's? Any tips as to what I could do?

That makes sense. I looked at the seals and could not see how water could get past them but I thought that there might be something I did not see or understand. This then also leads me to conclude that the water on my cars carpets could not be coming from the sunroofs - too much water, and also no signs of water coming from above the roof lining. Will have to take another look ant the AC drains...

Are you saying that when the sunroofs are closed, the drain pipes should not be needed at all? IE, that no water should find its way past the rubber seals when closed?