Abe
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Posts posted by Abe
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morning tiger
as Les mentioned try and avoid some of the synthetics (motor oil)
initially, I ran my 300tdi on 5-40 and saw No adverse problems just that it did tend to leak
Then I changed to decent quality 15-40 turbo diesel oil & no leaks pressure. & cheaper
I initially went with synthetics as I installed a external Kleen-Oil filtration system (intention was to extent the oil change intervals - still have the filter on but just run thicker oil through it.
For the relative price of the mineral v. synthetic new its easier to change it and whilst you doing ones a yr drop all the oils (boxes & diffs) and replace
happy trails
abe
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Hiya Jason
Go with the propshaft option initially
order yourself two new ones (source them out of paddocks and they will be delivered out to you in working days) in most cases post-free
my exp was I had problems with the main box ordered our a re-con box from ashcrofts (much better than sourcing locally) delivery out to Belgium came in at about 50GBP for delivery and the shipping on the returned box about Eur100 (still worked out much cheaper
I was getting problems with the front shaft (although before the transmission change there was no problem) rather than P*ss around with new joints etc - a new one was about (hold-on) 45-55 GBP put it on (bought the expansion gaiter as well - problem sorted clunk & clicking gone
For the transfer box I also ordered from Parkers one of their rear splash-plates - cst about GBP20 installed in about 30mins and ensures that the mainshaft into the transfer box it always oiled (I have a later transfer box on which apparently had already got around the mainshaft problems but for the little investment it ensures that all it kept over-lubed
PS the reason I write is that in my Series III i have the 300tdi motor & full disco transmission
happy trails
Abe
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Just A quick Question
has anyone out there access to a p38 owners manual ideally to cover the years 2000 or later in downloadable PDf format
earlier would also be appreciated
cheers & happy Trails
Abe
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STOP PRESS
concerning the steering judder finally found the problem.
not the steering rod inkage
not the pump or the hydraulic gubbins
not even the UJ joints on the steering either top set or lower set (although the were quite grimey
it turned out to be a crushed steering damper!
as mentioned whilst trialing it seems I had hit the steering damper midway on the outer /upper sleeve ( a real dint)
the obsticle had missed the front steering protector and puched a dint in the damper. missing the front diff protector
just removed the damper whilst up on axle stands and the sterring floats from lock to lock with no judder
recently, i hadnotice that the judder had become more pronounced similar to when the front wheels need balancing
just ran up the lane and back without the damper (not to be recomended)
the wobble is there (to be expected with no damper) but the steering is freeer
what has probably happened is that the damper has been leaking and geting slowly worse in the last few weeks.
anyways all in all problem cured
New up-rated damper on order & should be fitted next weekend.
just wrote back so that if anyone also gets similar symtoms in the future this could also be a caused for the judders!
happy & judder free trails
Abe
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Mayn thanks for the quick response from your all
now I know what i can order out from Paddocks in the next few weeks
cheers & of course Happy Trails
Abe
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Quick question
Is it possible to remove the coils springs back without using a spring compressor?
Ie. by removing the shocks and slowly lowering the axle
happy trails
Abe
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did the same thing too
recently changed the exaust system on the 300tdi (disco transplant too)
just used a defender middle box and pipe running aft to a exit just left of the Rear tow hook
cut the Cat out of the system & put the non cat - midle box pipe - What a difference
the motor is far more responsive and far easier to drive - no black smoke
prior to fitting the new system on I ran it withouf the system and was also suprised on how quite the motor was
happy trails
Abe
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First things first many thanks for the feedback
my worries were how long it would be before the steering might have seized
good point on the CV as strangly enough i was at a trial and i did notice it starting to stiffen i- t was at a disued coal pit and so there was a lot of real "black-carp" about
I will give the joints another blast with the presure washer & then WD40 the whole workings
are there greese points on the joints?
again
many thanks
Happy Trails
ABE
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Looking for advice concerning the following
driving the other day noticed the steering was "tight" when turning to the left
got the vehicle home & jacked it up and put the front axle on stands clear of the ground
started the motor to get the steering pump pumping & make it eeasier to turn the wheels
the vehicle turns to the left but on its return to the straght-ahead position there is a judder
turning from straght ahead to the right is no problem as was the case in the past
have checked the wheels & tyres to ensure there`s no rubbing & the front steering rods are neither bent or fouling anything
header tank on the PAS is topped up & also OK
no leaks whats-so-ever from any of the lines
Like I say - only this judder when turning to the left and back to centre again
any ideas would be appreciated
Happy rails
Abe
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many thanks for the reply
I wanted to put one in as I didnt want be asred with going for a original RR p38 system as thery are old tech anyways
I thought about the becker as a mate had one in his transit and as they fit the standard slot & dont rely on a separate CD drive - thought the instalation would be straghtforward as it would just be a case of fitting the GPS antena and if necessary the speedo transmitter
the aim was just to get something to shoul me directions when needed
Thinking about it - it would mean lossing the RR orig H/K unit which is good so i might be temted to just go fo a Tom Tom or one of the occasional usage units
never-the less thanks for the info
have a nice one
& happy trails
Abe
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Just a quick Enquiry
Iam thinking about buying a Becker Traffic Pro 4765 navigation unit for installation into a 2001 P38
Has anyone already one installed into theirs / has one already fitted?
how do you rate them?
The unit i have my eye on is a LR branded one & thus I "assume" it would be compatable with the CD changer already fitted to the std RR Hamon kardon header unit.
A friend had one installed into of all things a a ford transit and to find the way its not too bad.
my aim with the old type unit is so i can utilise the std DIN radio slot.
appreciate any feedback
thanks & happy Trials
Abe
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Hiya Again Fridge
thanks for the info
as the main problem to date was sourcing the bypass gubbins to route in a oil cooler
regarding the routing i will probably get some besoke Hydraulic pipes made and put a new non LR "mocal" cooler where the orginal intercooler was up front as now there a space as i have the full size intercooler (sitting infront of the normal rad)
my other worry was the pump presseure to get oil to the front & back (luckerly its ATF fluid abs so is pretty viscuss)
great info thanks
happy trails
Abe
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Hiya Fridge
I think mine was already cross charged as the boxes are off a 1996 300tdi - i just wanted the extra piece-of-mind
stangley enough although the mainshaft didnt have any serious wear, after putting on the extra splash plate the box seems to have gone a little quieter
when I can get my hand on a R380 V8 remote oil mount - I will endevour to put a oil cooler on the main box
but thats stuff for another day
happy trails
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then you how cheep it is for a lot of piece of mind
happy trails
Abe
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Hi Lars
Would stay clear of a complete transplant (i have such a combo 300tdi with all disco transmission) all in all more trouble than its worth ref transmission tunnel etc etc
However:
Seriously consider the disco transfer box - I have mine running through classic RR diffs to 265/75 tyres and although long-legged its not too bad - remembering back to the a Series IIa with a perkins on 750/16?s as a kid and how low that seem to be geared at the time
On mine i have a larger intercooler & more recently removed the cat but once up to speed it sails along at about 100kph at about 2,000- 2100RPM with about +5-8psi on the boost.
Its not written in any law that you can have to get to 5th ASAP use 4th - yep you could over-stretch the motor it if you wanted to trundle around in 4th or fifth at low speed but iam sure you would notice that before you did any real damage!
with regard to off road - its still capable and thats why the gods at Solihull put a low box on it.
Try the transfer box - you can always go back
one thing if you do go for a transfer box to make sure you keep the mainshaft (into the transfer box) well lubricated consider installing a extra oil splash plate on the back end of the box (easilly done - remove the back plate of the transfer box put the splash plate between the box and the back plate 30mins work tops) (its basically a disk the same profile as the back plate with a horse-shoe shape protrusion to throw oil down the mainshhaft) will cst you about 20GBP from somewhere like steve Parkers . will give you that extra piece of mind and ensure your mainshaft and bearing are constantly oiled.
happy trails
Abe
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Yep Deano
I remember as a kid we used to ride on the bech at Blackrock or pendine in the south or even southport sands
as well as Dune trailing at talacre on the coast accross from the wiral.
The chap fron the colonies has a point they have "coast to coast beach" beach & very little between
if you dont believe me "steal a sheep & have a peek"
happy trails
Abe
PS whats the law concerning beach driving at the momment in the UK? is it still left up the discression of the local council?
PPS if you want to see good beach/ dune facilities try Oman or the UAE although its mostly all big petrol-engined landcruisers & low tyre presures, was out there recently (although after the first hr or so its monotonous)
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Quick question
whats the change interval for the cyclone filter?
is it a R&R job or can it be cleaned & replaced
happy trails
Abe
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I agree with Mr Pigster to a point
A few weeks ago - I took the advice in the tech section on the cat removal - (was planned for a while) I have just put a new defender middle box on and ran the tailpipe just to the left of the tow hook on the back.
the whole system is now 60mm
if you can (legally) remove the cat
It did make one hell of a difference in my case
the turbo really spins freer and earlier & makes it much easier to drive (I have a disco transfer box on 265/75`s)
previously i had a side entry exhaust based "system" - because the box on it had a smaller exit diameter on the pipe - always throwing soot up the side of the vehicle
up to now the bigger diameter system has really reduced the soot levels
I initially was going to go down the road of sourcing a "Vortex" exhaust but despite a few e-mails didnt get a reply & am now happy i went with a more conventional (cheeper) solusion
To Conclude, the vehicle was trailed at the weekend it was good for fording door-bottom height (incl a fitted 3 inch lift on the suspension) moreimportantly the power lowerdown has given it a snap lowerdown in the powerband and generally easier to dealwith.
happy trails
abe
PS on the theme of back pressure & its advantages: dont speak too loud or someone will start to market a "Hiclone" for the exhaust system
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Hiya Lars
i sourced one out of Paddocks when I was last over in the Uk about 18 months ago to get a larger intercooler fitted
The rad was not as it should be & so went around to Paddocks
it was a 300tdi rad (bi Flow type ) came to about GBP 108
seems to be decent quality and I have had no problems
try them as there delivery rates within the EU are good and they deliver very fast order monday delv on wed morn to frankfurt
happy trails
Abe
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Morning Ally
Many thanks for the reply
Speaking with a local Non authorised LR mechanic he mentioned the electrical problems (quality control issues) with the earlier p38 models
but nice to know the Timing belt (issue) is not quite accute as with the Tdi series
asi mentioned i was going for a 4-5 yr old model and so will obvoiusly be looking for a full service histrory and as little miles (KMS) on the tacho
its just organising a hearts & minds campaign with the management at home now
again
many thanks & happy trails
Abe
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Morning RR Forum
Dont often come to this neck-of the-woods
My question is this what are the service intervals on a BMW powered p38 RR
the most important is the Cambelt change
I run a 300tdi rebuild classic landrover (for the weekends) & when i bought it I had the belt changed regardless just to be sure
As Iam looking to buy a late late 2001 p38 with between KMS 90,000 - 140,000 on th clock & with a service history
I was wondering what should i look out for in general
why you ask a p38 as opposed to the post 2002 model?
Tax as the tax on the 3.0 ltr diesel approaches Eur1,000 here where as the 2.5 is a more realistic Eur 650 on the continent.
When I find the right vehicle it will be brought over to bleighty to have a fern-intercooler & chip ubgrade & probably a HID upgrade to the lighting (only a upgrade not on the lights not a later front-end rebuild)
appreciate any constructive help anone can offe
cheers & as always
Happy trails
Abe
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Hi lewis
I did a similar thing about 3 weeks ago
but I get rid of the front Cat and replaced it as mentioned in the Tech section
I plumbed for Defender middle box (no back box)
having had somesort of flatfish oval middle box in the past - which reduce the tail section to about 50-55mm
for the tail section I cannibalised the old cat to first box section I had removed, leaving me with a sleeve to put a 40 cm tail pipe exiting just left of the rear tow bracket pointing down & slighly to the left (ensuring it isnt in the line of any wheel spray)
previously i has a large 90deg bend just behind the middle box leading to a raised side entry just behind the passenger door. impressive but not too practical as when booted the soot would soot the side of the vehicle.
This weekend the vehicle will be in a trial and so will test the straight through-to-the-back configuration.
removing the cat & upping the exhaust pipe throughout to 60mm has made a diff
happy trails
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Hi Bazza
Why dont you by-pass the Lift pump and install an Electric
Initially I had both installed & in the end went for the electric
Up side
- Motor doesnt have to turn over to bring the fuel up from the pump
- The motor will fire up most mornings even without heat (ambient temp 5 down to minis 2c) at the moment jan
- less wear & tear on your Starter motor - most morning the motor 300tdi will fire in about a turn of the motor!
- because on Av you're pumping more fuel than needed the returned "warmer fuel" via the return pipe will keep your fuel in general, warmer
- as you pumping from the tank-end of the system rather than drawing the fuel right through the system - the chances of drawing air is reduced
down side
- if you have no juice in the battery you may have encounter problems although to date I have had no problem even with a flatfish battery as the pump takes away the need to turn the motor over as long.
- a replacement lift pump is about 18 quid whereas a electric is about min of 40
On mine I have a pump on the main tank pumping through a in-line heater & on to the main filter
& a 2nd to bring fuel from the 2nd tank to the main tank
A bit of overkill although I got tired of cleaning the carp out of the military tank switch which used to feed the main fuel pump
happy trails
abe
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Mornin Forum
Iam looking to upgrade my exhaust system
I run a Fern-intercooled 300tdi transplanted onto a RR Chassis with just the middle box from a defender on it with a side exit just behind the passenger door
I intend to remove the front cat with the Non cat front pipe (nicely explained in the tech archive) furthermore replace the silencer.
initially was going to source a vortex box however having not recieved a reply from them.
Has anyone any suitable sensible alternative(s) boxes they could recommend.
Iam not interested in cherry bombs or any racing exhaust - as noise is a consideration
happy trails
Abe
which looks better
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
go with the 36`s
I have 275/65/16`s & even with double wider mud flaps they throw a lot of carp up the side
plus you have a little more ground clearance and less strain on the wheel bearings and steering linkage & Pumps
plus on well rutted (truck worn) roads you wont get as much steering wobble
happy trails
abe