g647415
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Posts posted by g647415
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OK, maybe I have done something stupid;but it was my decision......
I just bought an used pump on Ebay. (It stated that it worked and was not leaking!)
I also bought the refurbishment kit.
So my plan is
1. Install the used pump from ebay and get the L/R running again.
2. Refurbish my original pump during the summer and then install that again.
3. Sell the ebay pump again.
Sure I will not get all my money back, but hopefully I will not loose to much money.
Of course assuming that I get my old pump assembled again without any spare left over....
So I will have to remove everything. Just the fact to empty the cooling water from the system makes me tired......
But now I have time. It will take atleast one week before I have the pump!
Thanks everyone.
I will keep you updated!
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I know you say you don't want to strip the complete unit, but removing and replacing the hydraulic head pretty much involves that.
Read through the manual you have found on the web. Don't ignore the rebuild instructions, I sometimes find that when I want to partially dismantle something it's often best to read backwards, seeing what is fitted after the the part I want to remove is installed.
I've never done this work, but the hydraulic head contains a transfer pump.
The hydraulic head is carefully aligned, the pushed and twisted into the main body by hand. It seems the oil seal around the outside of the hydraulic head makes it a snug fit. Later on, the transfer pump is inserted into the hydraulic head and tightened up by use of a special adaptor that fits in the slots the pump blades normally reside in. There is also a tommy bar inserted into the main body, the bar is used to hold the shaft still as the pump is tightened.
Before this however, it seems there are two valves that go through the side of the main body and locate in that part of the hydraulic head that is inside the main body.
Instruction 30.5.7 says: Align the locating holes in the (hydraulic) head for the latch and rotor vent switch valves with their respective holes in the pump housing (main body).
As you are working outside the expected workshop overhaul procedure I think all you can do read and re-read the manual, taking bits off (like the two valves) and seeing what comes loose. Work in the knowledge that you may end up with the pump reduced to a pile of bits in a plastic box, and having to eat humble pie at the counter of a diesel pump repair shop.
The alternative is to bite the bullet, take the pump off, and take it to the same repair shop, but this time at least he can be certain all the bits are there, which isn't the case when presented with a plastic box of parts.
Good Luck.
That was not the answer I was looking for!!!!!
I was more looking for something like: "Remove those two bolts and then you can just snug out the head......."
Let me think for a while!
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Thanks for that pic!
I am trying to remove the hydralic head. How is this done? What is fixing it to the main head?
Yes, I cleaned all before, since I also in the beginning thought my leak was some where else. But as soon as I cleaned one area the leak just moved.
I also removed my delivery valves, cleaned them and attached them.
The last thing I did was to use compressed air to spray air when the L/R was running. Then I actually could see diesel leaking from the groove between the hydralic and main head!
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Do you know....I may actually have a CAV pump for a 2.5n/a in the shed....I don't know why I've just thought of it, come to think of it why I've even got it.... If I remember in the morning I'll dig it out and have a look at it while I'm down at the Crick Boat Festival tomorrow
That would be very nice. (How can I make that up to you???)
I found the work shop manual on the net, but that explains how to disassemble the pump totally. I dont want to do that.
I also imagine to remove the pump from the engine. Still I am worried about how to remove the housing with the pipe connections.
Either it fitted with screws from the bottom (THere is some kind of a piston like thing) and top (then I would have to remove the top cover and look inside there.)
OR its just screwed in place with big threads, but I dont think it is......CARP. With my luck I will break something before fixing it.
But now.....Its F1 time in Monaco and after that Ice hockey, so I will try to focus on that instead of the pump......for a while.
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Ok, can some one atleast tell me how the housing which the banjobolts are screeed into is fixed?
I have removed the back cover but i thougth there where going to be long screws but there wherent!
What do i need to loosen in order to loosen the housing to see the seal!
(The housing with the banjo bolt)
Thanks
/Martin
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Thanks.
LAST question. Do you think it will be possible to replace the O ring without taking of the pump?
I will start the disassembly later today and will see "trial & error" if I can get the parts apart a little, enough to take the O ring over the first housing.
Founds some threads here on lr4x4, but non where the seal is replaced with pump still on engine.....
I really dont want to remove the pump with all that it means. I just replaced the timing belt ...............and I would prefer not have to remove those parts again.
Of course in worst case...........
Sorry for all my questions.......
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I'm no expert on n/a's or TD's, got rid of both before having to get involved in internal engine affairs. It does appear to be the right parts though. I can't give you specific help, only general.
I'll take, that its is the correct parts and hold you responsible if it isnt.
Seriously; Just happy to get some help. I appricate all the response/support I get.
I am so thankful.
In the end its my and only my decision to buy!
BR
Martin
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Guys!
Is this what I need?
'http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231110031210
I have a L90-1984, 2.5N/A. How do I know if I have a Bosch pump?
(Mine seems to look like the one on the above pic!)
He claims the seal can be changed without removing pump. Would be great.
What do you say?
/Martin
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CARP!
I removed it cleaned it and then put it back together. Still leaking. But not from there obvious since I cleaned everyting. Now its from below.
OK, I need to move to another computer. I found some O rings on ebay and I need to know whiich one I need to buy. Have also some additional questions. CAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARP!
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OK, found my mirror. (not the wifes)
Started the engine and had a look.
Its leaking exactly behind the banon bolt, but more close to the pump frame.
Means:
1. The seal between the square banjo bolt fixture and the housing is gone.
2. The seal between the two pump housings is gone. BUT, in that case its really gone diretly behind the square holding the bolt.
Its impossible to see where the leakage is.
(Square; The square part which the banjo bolt goes through and which also connect to the injector pipe!)
So my current plan is to remove the banjo bolt and then the square. Hopefully I will see if any seal there is gone!
Question, how will the "square" come loose? I see its fitted with a sheet metal plate close to the injector pipe. Seems all four pipes are connected to this sheet metal "frame"!
Of course I will find out while removing the banjo bolt, but any heads up are apreciated!
Thanks!
/Martin
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she wont mind...............hehe, ever returned something borrowed from the wife with diesel/oil/grease on it?????
No, seriously. I have a small mirror on an extractable pin(like antenna). Its small but maybe I can see seomthing.
hehe, so cool; Borrow from wifes makeup bag for your land rover. No no no. That cant end well.
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Bulls eye. Yes, thats the bolt I mean.
could well be it. I mean I only see it dripping from the bolt, the actual leak could be close by. Its not leaking when standing still.....Its not so fun laying under the L/R when the engine is running. Its dripping quite much. I need to wait until the sun goes down. Its to bright for a flashlight.
Hmmmm O ring.... OMG, that does not sound fun at all. I assume you mean between the part where the stop valve is and the main pump.
Lets see if I see something in a couple of hours. Keep you posted and I hope you keep me posted of any other ideas!
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Look at this picture:
Its the screw at the bottom left from number 4.(It has no number) I only see how its dripping from it, once the L/R is running!
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Hi Guys,
As you know I changed my liftpump some while ago.
Now I noticed that my injection pump is leaking.
One of the four pipe connections to the injectors.
Its the bottom pipe. but its not leaking at the pipe nut. Its leaking at the screw which connects the square part which the pipe is connected to and then onto the actual pump.
Its probably a screw wich hole inside letting diesel go from pump to injector.
I tried to tighten the screw but its already tight.
I assume there is some kind of a seal there. Coppar or rubber?
Common problem?
Or is it annything else which might be broken?
Actual square part...
If its a seal, I live in SWEDEN, I cant get a hold of a quick spare. What can I use?
Do you at all know what I mean or am I just writing rubbish?
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Maybe you are right. I will update this post once its time for a test. Starting to see this as an interesting job
Maybe it will look easier once I grinded of the old cover and cleared the axle from all kind of grease, oil, rust and rust protecting mass.
I know clean clean and more clean surfaces before welding.
/Martin
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The worst that can happen is that it leaks, so you do the weld again! I wouldn't even consider removing the axle or doing a job like that, especially if you have MIG available.
When I say 'pop out', it won't fall out, literally, it will need persuading out. You'll want to get new gaskets or sealant before you start, and your choice whether you have new nuts for the diff, all new prop-shaft fixings, and new drive flange bolts.
Depends on the welder!!!!
Lets see. I will order the cover, seals ...........could be interesting. Thanks !!!!
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OK ,thanks. Will give it a try this weekend. 27 degrees celsius today!
(Russian heat wave!) -
Back axle? Easy, 5 bolts in each wheel and the half shafts come out, 4 bolts and the prop comes off the diff input, something like 10 nuts and the whole diff pops out of the axle. Usual rules about jacking and chocking etc.
OK, so the diff will just pop out once I remove all the nuts around the flange? (Have never removed one...)
But then you have all the shocks, springs, brake lines, bars and frames. I cant imagine welding it while the axle is "up right"!?
I would prefer to have it removed completly and take it to a welder.......I know its my decision. Maybe need to think about it.
I have MIG welding equipement, but I have never welded somehting which REALLY needs to be fluid proof.
Hmmmm, maybe should give it a try......whats the worst thing that can happen.......
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There are 2 seals above the screen frame, a self adhesive foam on the frame & a tube rubber on inside of roof.rear panel to body has a seal strip too, have a look at the 90 parts book on retroanaconda's webpages, link http://www.retroanaconda.com
Thanks. I found the seals.
Do you think I can lift "out" the cab and then put it in place without damaging the existing seals so much?
It looks as some one has put a lot of "silicone" type on the upper seal so maybe I would have to redo that anyway.
Would just be fun to take it of and get some space to clean up the areas I cant access today.
(Of course looking at the temperature which we will have the coming days in Sweden I could imagine driving to work without a cab also.....
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ok, so that is the way to go. Think I need to wait for the winter. I have never taken apart a diff and I really.....CARP!
Also need to find some one who will do the welding. Yes, Paddocks had it. Thanks!
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Hi again guys,
I would like to remove my single cab on my pick up. Looking at screws holding it in place does not look so complicated.(Very few)
I have although two concerns.
1. Seal between the cab and the "Body". Is there a seal and if yes, is it likely to break? (I dont have a spare...)
2. What is between the roof and the windshield frame? It looks just like a lot of silicon like.......Isnt there any seal at all. There also seems no screws up there. is that correct?
Thanks!
Martin
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Hi Guys,
When I got the Landy two months ago I saw the rear axle leaking oil. Yes, the diff cover was "blown".
I tried welding it but it was so thin. So I cleaned it up and then took "metal epoxy". It has been good but I see now that it has started to leak a little.
I found this :http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=76047
and I also found a topic where some one had welded a new cover to the the diff.
All seems very difficult.
Remember I live in sweden and have limitied access to used parts.
Any other ideas?
Any one who also quickly can guide me to a online store selling the covers?
In worts case I have to strip it down and take it to a "real" welder..........I am not good enough
THanks
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Quick update!
Got the UJ today and I can confirm it is the STC4807.
So if you read
C5_53
33
62GKN
on your UJ its the STC4807!
THanks all!
BR
Martin
could well be it. I mean I only see it dripping from the bolt, the actual leak could be close by. Its not leaking when standing still.....
Clutch push rod retaining clip
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Hi!
Not sure if we have the same gearbox, but here is my thread: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=89405
Initially it was a nightmare.
But I managed. In Sweden we have plastic pipes which you run electric cables in, inside the walls of a house. (So that you easily can exchange cables id they break!) To extend this plastic pipes, there are small adapter tubes, which fit over two pipes.
I used one of each and glued the adapter to the clip. Means the small adapter is still on my clip even now when slave cylinder is back in place.
But I also had to bend the arms a little before they would engage and even when finally engaged they eaasily poped out. Its tight!
But the clip is (as I understood it) only to aid assembly, but I would not skip it during actually assembly.
/Martin