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No, I actually have phillip screws between the rails and the box. This must have been an early solution which probably wasent to good. THere are also phillips between the seat and the rail, but they are big. These phillips are smaller. Probably changed to bolt on newer models.

Well I removed the head rest. Quite OK. But I think I will raise the seat an inch or so also. But I have some trouble with the screw holding the seat. WHY did they put phillip screws there?????????? Anyway, I also managed to recarpet my "complete" interior (Roof and rear sides). From old yellow/whiteish/dirty to nice black fabrik. Looks nice and smells nicer!!!

OK, after some investigation it seems I have room for my legs when I am driving. The "problem" is when I enter the car. Then the legs gets jammed until I have them at the pedals. Hmmm, yes, I could build me some own rails to lift the seat a little. Maybe worth to test it first with a cusion or similar. That will only solve my problem partly since I also want to be able to lean more backwards, (Just a little), but that could also temporary be solved by removing the headrest. What about this. I dont think I understood it correctly : The best mod i did however was remove the whole seat tub and fitted a flat floor with my own seat rails. The gave me a lot more room as i postiioned it to fit my build. What did you take away? Anyway, I got some great ideas.. Thanks /Martin

Hehe, fit a Volvo seat. Hmmmm sure I am from Sweden, but please dont mention the word Volvo. Cant stand those cars. I am a little surprised that you both state to raise the seat. I would think your legs would be jammed even more below the steering wheel. I will have a look later this afternoon. Maybe I am wrong! Thanks so far!

Yes, I though about removing the headrest....I also never use them, even in my other cars. Only thing is of course if in a collision from behind. Would be nice to bang the back of your head into something soft rather then something hard. (I dont think I have the problem that my head goes over them...) Other seats.....could be an idea. One common problem is also that the steering wheel is quite large, so even IF the driver could move the seat further forward, the legs will be jammed under the steering wheel. I guess step one is to remove the headrest and see how it feels. Maybe if possible fasten a small headrest on the back of the cabin. Depends on where the window starts.

Hi Guys, I tried to google, but my english is to bad in order to limit the search result. I would like to know any tricks to get a more comfortable driving/passenger position in my Pickup. Its really my wife who complains the most, but I have to be honest, sometimes I also wish some more comfort. I guess the main problem is the headrest since this touches the rear window when trying to adjust the back of the seat. I tried to bend the headrest fixture, but that does not seem to fix the problem. Moving the seat further forward would mean I can lean it back more, but then again, I am not the shortest person in the world.... Any suggestions, ideas....Thank! P.S I really want to keep my pickup, so solutions suggesting changing model is not welcome /Martin

Hehe. I think I solved the problem. A little at least. I changed my transfer box flanges and at the same time my outer bearings. Rear/front. Now the wining has dissapeared, almost atleast. Just thought I let you know. Thank all who wrote the instructions for replacing the bearings!!!! Went smooooooooth! /Martin

I have a L90 from 84. I replaced by slave cylinder some weeks ago. Not 100% sure it looks alike, but did you had to remove the push rod? I think you need in one way or another first check that the push rod works as expected when pushing down the clutch pedal. Does it really extend (During load) when the pedal is pushed down Not sure how you should do this........You dont want to push out the piston neither do you want to remove the push rod (If its same procedure I have with mine.) Can you "feel" your clutch depressing when pushing down the pedal?

Thanks. For some reason I couldent find it. I am not used to use drawings like that. I understand that most of you do this, but its new to me. Again thanks. Just for the record. I mean the word "flange"; I use it a lot in my daily work, but I could not relate that word to what I was after. Sorry for this! THanks Martin

Hi Guys, You know I am from Sweden, but there are some spares I cant find (Dont know the name of them). I am using Rimmerbros to search for spares. I find it eaasy. Then I know the part number and can look else where! I changed all four seals from the rear axle - prop shaft - transfer box - Prop shaft - front axle. Its the seal preventing oil coming out from the transfer box and rear/front axle. What are those things called which are bolted to the transfere case/rear/front axle and which the prop shafts are mounting between??? (These are the parts which goes in to the seals I replaced. I know some of them where bad but I thought the seals would last a little, but.......... I also browsed Paddoc....parts but I cant fond these things (looking at pictures)..... Am I stupid? Sorry..... /Martin

Well I adjusted the idle a little. (Actually I had to turn the screw more then I thought to get some noticeable change.) Funny part is that now the L/R behaves better also during gear shifting, so I will leave it as it is for now.Means the RPM does not drop so fast any longer. So that was that. Just to go back to the normal list. of things to do with the L/R.

Almost I went to work now and I am happy. BUT I now realize two things. 1. The idle is quite low. At least lower then with the old pump. I know how to ajust this, even if Haynes says that you need special tolls...... 2. (This is a funny one, becuase I actually had the other way around with my old pump) When I shift gears, the rpm drops really fast so I actually have to give some acc. during shifting, so that I dont end up with idle rpm once the new gear is in. Surely if I eádjust the idle, this will improve a little, but could it be somehting else. Otherwise the L/R is great now. Good acceleration and speed. /Martin

I ama novice (still), but I am not sure if fuel should come out of the injector pipes by only pumping. I am quite sure you need to crank the engine to get fuel up there. I changed my injector pump yeasterday and it took a while before I got it to work. Bleeding air filter, Injectorpump (With ignitioin on and with lift pump). Then I cranked the engine for 20 seconds. Thereafter I opened the "return" piped banjos on the top of the injectors. I saw air/fuel leaking out. Still open I cranked the engine for some seconds. Tightend them again and then contiuned cranking. Still it took about 15seconds after that before the engine started! /Martin

Another update: Got my ebay pump today. Installed it, adjusted the pump when timing was set and ......cranking cranking cranking.... Starting to bleed the system and cranking again.........Bleeded top of injectors.....cranking cranking cranking and then sudden it started. Assembled everything together and took a ride. I have a NEW L/R. Acceleration is really good. never was before. WOW. Thank god! To my old pump. I took another look yesterday. I made some huge errors. When I looked again yesterday evening, the timing was one tooth wrong So I adjusted it and did everything over......still nothing....This afternoon when I installed the "new" pump I realized that the injector pipe nuts where loose Means yesterday trial was nothing more then a disaster. Next time I buy something from UK I will buy the plate which lets you change the pump without having to remove the waterpump, timing belt.......Then I will give it another go. I am sure it should work. I still believe that refurbishing the pump to the point I did should not be any problem. Its when you go one step further problems starts to arise! But, that will be another day. Tomorrow morning I am going "Landy" to work! Thanks all for your support. /Martin

No, not yet. We had some public holidays in Sweden last week. I am still waiting for my pump bought on Ebay. If that does not work........ About refurbishing a pump. Maybe I wasent so careful as I should have been, but to be honest, its not that complicated IF you stop the refurbishing where I did. (I can although imagine that most refurbishing DOES required further dissambling and then the story changes....) I did one mistake. I extended the haydralic head further then required which caused some parts to disangaged. But really, if I wouldent have done that I really dont know what the real problem is. Its quite straigth forward. No special tools where required. Lots of pictures. Most parts could only be situtuated in one direction. Another VERY importantthing which some one already stated. Make sure to CLEAN and CLEAN and CLEAN and then clean your pump again BEFORE dissambling it. Now I cant be sure its that simple anyway. Its my impression. But as you have read I have not managed to get my L/R running yet, so maybe its not so easy as I think.... I will check with some one what a refurbishment of a pump cost in Sweden. Just need to get some time! /Martin

Well.....I managed to assembly the pump. Most of the parts actually could only be fitted in one direction/place so it was not so difficult. Still the engine will not start. I get fuel up to the injectors. Difficult to say how much although. Anyone who knows how I can tell if enough is coming up to the injectors? I have two concerns. 1. The throttle is very easy to press down now. Could of course be all the new seals. Before it was harder. Its still hard pressing back the throttle by hand on the actual pump. 2. There seems to be some more pressure in the main pump housing. When bleeding, after having cranked the engine, opening the bleeding nipple on the upper house, I get a 1-2 inch long squirt for a few seconds. Cant remember that had this before. Normally it would only sip out fuel. But not to worry, I am getting my other pump next week, so I will have time to disassemble it again.

Update; Got my kit today; Yeah!!!! Opened the kit; CARP; about 30 O-rings and 25 metal seal.....no instruction where goes what....Sure I will only use some of them since I have not opened the complete pump....but to find the correct seals.....I will use the caliper as much as possible but you know what I mean........ Small instruction set which oring goes where would have been nice. Anyway, I am about to start soon. Be ready to support me

Forgot one more thing. IF you have a leak from the slave cylinder, watch out when removing it. As you have read here the push rod will normally not follow the slave cylinder when removing it. You actually want the push rod NOT to follow out. Let it be there and focus on the cylinder. There is a clip on the fork holding the push rod. If you get the push rod to follow out, the clip needs to be attached again. This is NOT easy. (Also called the death clip!) http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=89622

I would start by checking the master clutch cylinder oil level & see if you have any leaks. Either from the master or slave clutch cylinder. That would actually mean that the push rod would not manage to pucs the clutch as far as required! 1. Oil level container at the master clutch cylinder 2. Leaks from Master/slave cylinder. A leak from the master normally leaks into the cabin, on the driver floor. From the slave it will leak between engine/gearbox onto the road! BR Martin

They look almost the same, why the refurbishing kit fits both. To the point where I have come now, I have not required any special tool. But I think if I would to go further into the refurbishment, Yes, then I would need special tool. But to replace the seal between the Haydralic and main house; No. But as some one said in the beginning of this thread, its a pig job and I am nut even sure I will manager to get the pump together again. So many small parts, seals, springs, orientation of all kind of parts.........of course this is where a forum comes in handy.

Mine is also a larger fuel cap in metal. But I also dont have a seal and its very loose. I dont know if it should be like that........ First I thought that some one has remove the seal due to that the breather didnt work, but it did. I am almost affraid to lose it, but it hasent so far...

OK, but still.............exl. VAT.....and like I said..In Sweden.... Will upload some pictures later today so that you can see my disaster.....

Some update! I know, I said a summer vacation activity......but...... I did it now. I actually already see my bad O-ring.. AND I also imagine that I could have done this with the pump still mounted on the engine. Although I am happy I decide to remove it. Sure if this would have been my third time doing it, I could imaging doing it still mounted, but not now. To many springs and other scary components....... So I have just withdrawn the hydraulic head a little to see the O-ring. I will not withdraw it completely. I dont know what is expecting me if I would. I will just snug the new over the hydraulic head. Will I get the pump together again? I am not sure. There where 2-3 moments during disassembling which I actually dont know how the pieces will fit together again. In regardless of all the pictures I took! But either I will figure it out or I ask you pro's Also, just a O-ring would not have been enough. I think you need to exchange more oring/seals once its now dissembled. Hopefully it will arrive within a week. There is one tiny black cloud on the sky. When I removed the bottom banjo bolt on the main head (it has an Oring in the middle and is quite long, I thought I heard something dropping on my garage floor. I cant find anything.....but I am a little scared. My garage floor is not the cleanest one..... I will just close my eyes and pretend it never happened. Lets see. To be continued.....

No worries. I have removed the pump now, so I will have time to disassembly it. I will figure it out now, once I have it on my work bench. 450???? OMG; But honestly, what is this: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID010442 Or is the "problem" here that these are not original pumps??? Not sure what OEM or aftermarket means in the case of injector pumps. Can there really be alternatives to "Lucas" pumps???

Well I could check how much they want......I am just assuming that its costly..........what is costly???? I think everything is costly in Sweden. Just looking at spare parts for cars (Even Swedish cars!) But you are right. I will ask. That does not hurt. On the other hand I love to "refurbish" things......means in the end break it ......... I removed the pump yeasterday. It went faster then I thought. I hope I didnt do anything stupid. Engine is in timing positioin and I have "blocked" the cam wheel which easily rotates due to "spring" load. /Martin