miggit Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 (edited) Hi all, got a bit of a tricky one and was hoping that someone might be able to help..... I have just fitted D1 door mirrors on my RRC and they aren't working... Simple I hear you say , you've messed it up.. I might have, but I'm normally good at re-jigging electrical circuits.. Now the reason for the cry of help is everything is SH and unknown... the mirrors came off a drowned D1 300 TDi and I had to buy a mirror switch from a breaker, as my RRC has a totally different setup that uses 1 less wire per mirror and 2 switches. I'm confident that the wiring is correct, and it's been done properly with a soldering iron and heat shrink... no sellotape here So what should I be looking at? what fails more often? I must have done something right as the mirrors got lovely and warm when the rear window was turned on.. Should I be trying to find a very nice bod who has working spares that I can try to eliminate the items one by one.. I've got a feeling that it's the switch, but I really need to try another before I raise merry hell with the breaker!! Edited November 27, 2017 by miggit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sierrafery Posted November 28, 2017 Share Posted November 28, 2017 When you fitted the plugs for the D1 mirrors in which colour wire did you splice in to connect to the 4'th pin of the mirror's plug as you had 3 wires there and 4 pin connector? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miggit Posted November 28, 2017 Author Share Posted November 28, 2017 Are well that is where I got sneaky, if you look at the diagram of the wiring for the mirrors, you'll suddenly see that 2 wires (grey/white) are joined together just outside of the mirror.... in fact approximately 6" out side of the mirror when you strip the loom down! So the greys are commoned up and they are all on the same line into the switch. The RRC wiring has 2 commoned wires between the mirrors and 1 independent, so I used the indy wire and the common wire for the nearside (passenger) side and ran a new wire for the drivers side in place of the commoned wire... as its nearer and you don't have to have the dash apart to achieve this! I'm going to try and trouble shoot this today, as I've finished sulking, the only thing that I didn't check was the quality of the earth to the new switch, as I assumed that it was OK as the old mirrors did move to a fashion, all be it like an old person with advanced arthritis But the new ones show no signs of movement... the other thing that I've noticed is there was a noise like a relay clicking when the old mirror was operated, and now nothing, wondering if there is something there.. although the RRC diagram shows no relays... so there is every chance of one being there and unmarked!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sierrafery Posted November 28, 2017 Share Posted November 28, 2017 (edited) I've checked only the diagrams and according to those the problem is that the RRC mirror has an actuator solenoid(that's what you heard clicking) which splits for vertical and horizontal movement and the D1 has two motors one for vertical and one for horizontal so concentrate on that...it's not easy to figure out which wire where to connect cos the common wire on RRC switches earth for the solenoid while the wires on the D1 mirror are switching polarity Edited November 28, 2017 by sierrafery Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miggit Posted November 28, 2017 Author Share Posted November 28, 2017 Right well I've had some success, poking bits of wire in to the switch socket, I have managed to get some movement out of the mirrors.... and after repeated goes with the switch I did get something, all be it geriatric So I'm rapidly coming to the conclusion that the switch isn't as good as thought... So I've just bought a NOS switch which should be here at the weekend. Annoyingly the wiring is reversed so left does right and visa versa, so I have a distinct feeling that the RRC diagram is reversed... I should have know better when they didn't mark the mirrors left and right! So there will be some remaking of the connections to correct this. The other puzzling thing was... there was a short to earth on one of the O/S mirror wires (discovered while prodding with live wire), so I cut the wire in the footwell to run a new one, put the meter on the wire just to see that the fault is behind the dash and not the door, and its gone ... both sides are open circuit.. what on earth is going on?? Think the car is rebelling against being upgraded Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miggit Posted December 1, 2017 Author Share Posted December 1, 2017 I'm going to admit defeat and stop before the petrol comes out. It just isn't playing ball, each mirror using the three wires and a battery go up down left right, immediately you put either switch in the circuit it all goes haywire I have 2 switches doing the same one SH and one NOS, tried switch cleaner on them, nada! I have checked, re-checked the wiring diagram and the connections are good, even went to the hassle of wiring direct to slave battery... I can only assume that I've mirrors that require normal logical wiring and 2x switches that that follow no logic at all, bit like the old RRC setup, and I'm not sure where to go now, if there are different switches I can't fathom out which one I need or how to go about making a switch.... Everything works well when the wiring is kept separate, but when you start to common up the wires it get very complicated and goes haywire... left right works but up is dead and down goes left.... the switches I have are PRC6829 (NOS) and AMR2498 (SH) they look identical, have the same 7 pins, and are both listed as D1. My mirrors are from a 300TDI as far as I know! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miggit Posted December 1, 2017 Author Share Posted December 1, 2017 Just had a thought... there isn't an ECU is there.. would go a long way to explaining the erratic nature of the wiring... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sierrafery Posted December 1, 2017 Share Posted December 1, 2017 No ECU involved in this...if you wired the mirrors exactly like in the diagram i dont understand what's the trouble Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miggit Posted December 1, 2017 Author Share Posted December 1, 2017 I do, it's a bloody Land Rover...... Land Rover and electricity don't mix very well I'm now looking at joysticks.. found a 4 way, 4 switch one that is waterproof (IP68), just scratching my head on how to make it work with both mirrors, without using 2 switches! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miggit Posted December 1, 2017 Author Share Posted December 1, 2017 The only thing that I can think of is I have 2 dud switches.... I 've been looking at the wiring diagram and I can't see any way that the up / down should affect left / right unless the switch is full of crud and shorting out other terminals in the switch, I can understand this as far as the SH switch goes, but I'd have thought that the NOS one was OK..... Think I need to find a friendly D1 owner near me that's willing to try my switch in their car... If I knew the switch was working or not, then I'd know which way to go, I can't keep buying switches... it's getting stupid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miggit Posted December 1, 2017 Author Share Posted December 1, 2017 Well the wonders of a cup of tea..... So there I was, slurping my tea and grumbling about Land Rover etc. And I decided to do surgery on the SH switch, as it didn't owe me much, and if I ended up opening it with a sledgehammer I'd at least be able to stand there and think serves you right, GIT! So it came apart easier than I expected, and it had lots of mini dumbbell shaped plungers and a double sided PCB... fairly shiny, not any dirt to speak of, but I rubbed it over with a cotton bud and had a go at the dumbbells too, making sure they sprang in and out, and then put it back together.... Curiosity got the better of me, so I've just wired it back up to the slave battery, and the little git now works why didn't just work from go?? So tomorrow I will be mainly redoing everything I cut today! I can only assume the NOS switch has sat around in a damp shed for a decade or two, the box would back that up, that'll be the next for the knife!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sierrafery Posted December 1, 2017 Share Posted December 1, 2017 .... well done, at least it's sorted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miggit Posted December 1, 2017 Author Share Posted December 1, 2017 (edited) I'm thinking of dissecting the NOS switch, do you think I should photograph the procedure and post it? I can imagine that I'm the only person unlucky enough to have a rotten mirror switch.. in which case I'm twice as unlucky Edited December 1, 2017 by miggit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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