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About miggit

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    Milton Keynes, UK!

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  1. Defender engine swap

    It is a reassuring sign that many have been fitted and few are available S/H... that would suggest that no one regrets fitting one!!
  2. Steering heavy to right

    I did think that but normally the going tight is in both directions with the UJ's, all the ones I've come across tended to go hard / soft as the wheel was turned, regardless of the direction.... But a healthy shower in penetrating oil would soon show improvements if it was the UJ's!
  3. Steering heavy to right

    The only other thing that I can think of is to drop the drag link and that will tell you if it's the box that's at fault.... got a peculiar feeling it might be a dud.. although with the steering box disconnected from the wheels it might be hard to detect any difference!
  4. Steering heavy to right

    Forgive me if I'm being stupid, but wouldn't the steering not being centralised just cause a wonky wheel? surely it wouldn't cause the steering to go tight when turning right, unless it was set too far to the left on the drop arm.... and as far as I know the drop arm can only go on in one position due to the double width spline at one point. In other words you can't miss aline the drop arm as it only has one position that it will fit, so if the steering is going stiff in one direction it has either got to be internal or another factor acting on the steering, not the position of the arm. It could be a swivel pin bearing, but unlikely as you haven't disturbed it... So has the damper got bent in the operation? or just failed.....
  5. Steering heavy to right

    But that doesn't mean that something hasn't gone wrong with it now.... for the sake of a couple of bolts, I'd have thought that this was the quickest thing to check! How miffed would you be if you changed the box for a replacement, only to discover that the problem was still there? Personally I'd rule everything out first, and start with the easy ones....
  6. Steering heavy to right

    Have tried it without the damper?
  7. Flashers On, Engine Not Turning On

    Sounds like it needs to see a Testbook! But with not knowing where on earth the poor sole is, it's rather hard to suggest somewhere! Unfortunately the D2 was at the beginning of LR's ECU everything phase... which they are still trying to get right! The P38, Which is the same era, suffers with ECU gremlins, and there are only a handful of places that really know how to fix them... And quite often a good Indy knows more than a dealer... especially when we are talking 'old' technology. If you're not careful you can end up spending a small fortune changing bits that aren't broken until you get lucky, a good indy should be able to sort at a fraction of the cost of a normal garage... which to be honest don't have a bloody clue when it comes to Land Rover faults! I had a similar thing with my Mercedes Ml, last year, went to 2 'Mercedes garages' spent £500 and it still didn't work, took it to a specialist some distance from me, and he fixed it in under an hour... it was the air filter... if they get blocked the Merc computer throws up all sorts of faults... the indy put his thumb on the problem straight away!
  8. Defender engine swap

    Gotta say that I got a diesel because I'd had 2 petrol RRC's in the past... the carb'd one was great but thirsty and the EFI was a pain in the butt! But having since discovered that you can de-Lucas an EFI they are looking more appealing... especially as Diesel is the new dirty green eco word... I've not long been accepted by into normal society having given up smoking, only to discover that I'm now baby killing scum as my cars are diesel.... I give up... anybody got a fag??
  9. Dim/Dip removal..Wiring Diagram??

    I have just discovered that myself! Waded though page after page of wiring diagrams in some LR W/S manuals I'd been given and I finally found the blighter..... Bloody LR sell it as a Dim / Dip unit but call it a Voltage Regulator in the manual, and they have stuck it on the page before the lighting circuit No wonder I couldn't find it! Having found it I have worked out it has a feed from the oil pressure switch, which would make sense, disconnect that problem solved... and then I looked a little further and was beginning to think it looked rather excess to requirement... and you have just confirmed that for me! So it's pull the plug and forget it ever existed
  10. Dim/Dip removal..Wiring Diagram??

    One of the many copies of Rave that I have actually covers the '88 RRC, but it doesn't cover the diesel.. so there's a chance it is NAS even though it has references to European and NAS! Might explain the lack of Dim/Dip!!
  11. Flashers On, Engine Not Turning On

    That sounds like a broken earth issue to me.... Land Rover is famous for inventing the floating earth!! Probably the easiest way to check is with a multimeter between the cigarette lighter case and a known earth, might also be worth checking the body earth at the same time, cos I doubt they have improved it from the RRC, and that can cause problems.
  12. I want to remove the stupid Dim Dip unit from my 1988 RRC, but all the info I have seen about removing them is for the relay type units..... and in true pain in the rear Range Rover style it's got to be bloody different My car has a module rather than a relay, pt. num. PRC8123, and is a 5 wire connection unit.... just to be helpful the diagram in Rave shows it as 4 wires, so I think it's the wrong unit in the diagram....plus it calls it High Beam Dimmer Flash Switch.... so I think its refering to the column switch and not the bloody dimmer...which I can't find! Headache, you bet! All I know is it's on the car, not required under EU law, is a pain in the butt and lives under the dash!
  13. There used to be BS iso but I don't ever recall seeing that of car parts.... I do recall seeing a lot of parts with PAT PEND! and MOWOG... maybe they were the standard! As far as CE mark goes, you are correct it is just an E and a small number (1-14 I think) which indicates which country tested the lights.... that's probably another countability ploy from the HSE, I'm sorry the profanity scanner has missed that one! So we are back to it needs the E mark to be legal in the EU and it needs the DOT mark to ensure it is flat beam and pasases the MOT, or it should have a double ended arrow pointing left and right.
  14. ^ if we ever get there....^ If a lamp is DOT marked it's US spec, so flat... if it also has an E mark then you can use it in the UK 'legally' (based on the legitimacy of the E mark) BUT if a lamp just has an E mark and no DOT, it is EU spec only, and like us their lights kick to the side, only to be awkward theirs go the opposite to us... So no DOT, no use here! Unless it has an arrow pointing to the curb, RHD, LHT, or a double ended arrow which means it's flat beam.
  15. So running on that logic, if they have a DOT and an E mark they should be OK, just steer clear of the E only marked ones!