Landrovernuts Posted April 28, 2018 Share Posted April 28, 2018 Afternoon All Looks like I have the dreaded coolant leak from head gasket below the exhaust manifold. I am 99.99% confident it is here and not the oil cooler and also not the plug in the head as my head does not have the plug in the middle between exhaust ports (15P engine) - not sure if that is normal or not! Engine not using oil and running well. Cylinder balance all good on Nanocom at idle and seems to be running well with no excessive coolant pressurisation. As such reasonably confident it is just the gasket let go between a coolant port and atmosphere. I am fairly sure it is not coming from the exhaust as none of the exhaust ports are steam cleaned (I have had the manifold off since my coolant leakage started and all looks fine). I am a Marine Engineer and have no issues doing the job myself (and have all the tools), but just want to ask for any tips before doing? I have seen a few write ups on the tinterweb and the only real issue I see is how you stop the timing chain dropping off the crank sprocket when you undo the hydraulic tensioner - or is it that it the top sprocket just cannot drop far enough? Other than that seems easy enough although not quite as easy as a Wartsila! I will get a head gasket (Elring 3 hole), top end gasket set and a set of head bolts next week, however any tips gratefully received - I have not worked on such a small engine for ages!! Toby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted April 28, 2018 Share Posted April 28, 2018 Check the little bung in the water jacket between cylinder 3 & 4.... Mine was leaking... Easy enough to replace if it’s that. If changing the head gasket, don’t worry, the timing chain can’t disappear down the hole.. Just be methodical and follow the torque steps properly. One last point, put the timing chain tensioner in before tightening the three bolts on the cam when setting the timing. Worthwhile investing in timing pins to lock flywheel and cam..... Oh and use new injector seals if you remove the injectors...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landrovernuts Posted April 29, 2018 Author Share Posted April 29, 2018 I had every intention of removing the heater plugs and injectors. I want to test the plugs as I am not so sure they are working. As for injectors, I keep genuine washers and seals on the shelf. It seems after moving on from V8's, I am now collecting spares for TD5's - I must get rid of all this V8 stuff now!! I have the timing pins and as of yesterday a workshop manual. As for the bung, I am pretty convinced my head does not have it. I am going out in a moment to whip the covers off again and have another look, as the leak is definetly in that area right above the oil cooler. Toby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landrovernuts Posted April 29, 2018 Author Share Posted April 29, 2018 I must have been having a blond moment as taking all the covers shows a bung/plug as expected. Without taking the manifold gasket off though I cannot really see if the leak is from there or no though. I will just get all the bits and do the plug first and if not continue with the head gasket! Toby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landrovernuts Posted May 8, 2018 Author Share Posted May 8, 2018 Quick update! I started to remove everything on to get the head off on the drivers side then swapped to the passenger side to find not only was the plug/bung leaking but it was only finger tight!!! Since I was so close to getting the head off, I whipped it off (understatement!) gave it a good clean checked the valves, removed, tested the glow plugs - all good and injectors all out, cleaned and resealed. Cylinders all looked pretty much like now with honing marks clearly visible and the piston tops also looked deposite free and like new. When the head was off there was a few issues with cable/pipe/coolant pipe routing and clips not done up/reattached that I found and must have been from when the cowboys did the chassis change. Put it all back together and it is running really well and holding coolant again - always a bonus. I think however putting the correct injector codes has made the biggest difference - smoothed it right out. Not sure why they were wrong but will have to blame the previous owner as I have had the injectors out to do the seals before but they went back where they came from (prior to owning a Nanocom). There was only one correct code and that was in the wrong position also two codes started with a "C" and all I have seen before start with an "N". I did burn my arms and legs in the sun though, not that I am complaining about the weather. With frequent oil changes we should be good for the next 120K now! Toby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted May 9, 2018 Share Posted May 9, 2018 Great news Toby. Satidying when it’s all back together isn’t it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landrovernuts Posted May 9, 2018 Author Share Posted May 9, 2018 Oh yes! The only issue now seems to be the oil pressure switch has given up again - third one since I have owned it! Definetley got oil pressure as I have a gauge fitted. I may have to do some investigation into this when work allows. I did manage to do it without putting the crank timing pin in as someone has totally knackered the plug in the bell housing. Next job when I have some time is to get this bugger out! Toby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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