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Landrovernuts

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About Landrovernuts

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    Teign Valley, Exeter

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  1. Hi All Just thought I would share this with you as I believe it to be a unresounding success! Like a number of other TD5 owners (discovery and defender), I would get a harshness between 2000 rpm and 2500 rpm which has taken me ages to get to the bottom of. I have read all sorts on the tinterweb and forums but started looking into this abit more with my vehicle (2002 110 TD5 double cab). The exhaust is a genuine parts exhaust but the down pipe was a Britpart only because I needed the vehicle on the road and the flexy self destructed one day. I was convinced it was the exhaust that was the culprit and have in the past replaced the flywheel, engine mounts etc. I have even heard that is is a TD% design feature and all sorts of other tosh and was sure it was somthing simple. I even tried running it with only the downpipe in place which was deafening but revealed absolutely no harshness in my 2000 rpm to 2500 rpm window - this confirmed I was going in the right direction. A few weeks ago I replaced all the exhaust hanger rubbers which altered the harshness bit didnt get rid of it. I had the day off yesterday and thought I would have a play in my new workshop (warm and dry!!). I took the Britpart down pipe off and while laying on the ground next to the original down pipe it became very obvious that the flexy was too small for the pipe and the pipe had been tapered to weld the flexy to. Checking the old pipe revealed that the internal diameter of the Britpart exhaust was 30% smaller than the original (original pipe ID 2551.8mm2 verses the Britpart 1809.5mm2)!! I purchased 2 stainless clamp on flexys on ebay (standard length) and started to chop the original downpipe around (I was going to use the Britpart one until I saw the dimension issues). I did make a mistake and bought 63mm flexy sections but you 60mm ID if you are going to do this. So I fitted one new flexy to the normal position and also one to the back section near the silencer flange. I did it here as there is a suitable straight section but also because there is a mounting rubber in the middle which would stop any excess pipe movement. I went for a drive this morning in the floods and hey presto the harshness has gone completely and what is also very noticeable is that there is much less turbo lag - it is pulling much sooner which probably is excess back pressure on the turbo from the Britpart flexy. My flexy's at least maintain the internal diameter of the exhaust which obviously makes a big differance on a TD5. I wont take the centre silencer out for even less back pressure as I like the relative silence on the motorway (1.22 TB also helps here!). Ignore the fact the flexy slips are leaking slightly (I will sort later this weekend) but you can see where the new flexy is and how small the Britpart flexy is in the pictures. Whether it is just better flexy's or the fact I have two fitted now is open to debate but I am rather chuffered with my simple and cheap fix. Just out of interest the two new stainless flexys are stiffer than the Britpart one. Third photo is both my toys in their new dry surroundings.
  2. Does anyone know if this type ARB compressor (not my one) can be mounted on its side? My one used to be fine (when mounted upright) and now has stopped pumping up since moving it to on its side in another vehicle- I expect the valves are ball type and loose! Toby
  3. I also have a 1.22 transfer box in my 110 TD5 double cab and agree with above that it is one of the best things I have done to it. I tow with mine and it pulls 5th gear easy. The only time I need low range is when pulling away with a loaded trailer on a steep hill, but then that is what low ratio is for. It is much quieter on the motorway and sometimes when not pulling a trailer, I find that i could do with another gear! As for being chipped - my engine is chipped but I have no idea to what level and would say would be good in a 90 even if it is not chipped as it is lighter although still has the barn door aerodynamics. Toby
  4. Yes, only just started doing this and while it is not a problem yet (other than the slow starting) , I am just thinking it may become a problem!! The rev counter was definetly fitted by LR - I have a recepit for it and it has never done the self check thing before. The rev counter is also working fine. I am thinking I may just get a sensor as spare and wait for it to fail - since it stops the engine dead. I have a spare glow plug timer and will try it just to see what happens just to see, as you say, there may be a switching glitch. Toby
  5. That is what mine is doing at the moment starting wise but without the errors on the Nanocom. I am of the same opinion about it is working or not but cannot help thinking something is causing the interface on the rev counter. I was thinking about trying a new one until I saw the prices of genuine new ones. Can anyone vouch for the Intermoto ones? Toby
  6. I have noticed recently that while waiting for the glow plug light to go off in the mornings just before a cold start that my rev counter is slowly flicking up to 1000 rpm and then going back to zero. I am assuming that the rev counter (genuine, fitted by dealer when vehical was brand new) is triggered by the crank sensor (via the ECU) and is probabaly on its way out? Engine runs fine with no faults up on the Nanocom, but is slow to start when cold. Anyone had issues like this, before I splash out on a crank sensor? Toby
  7. There is a small bit on fitting one of these Provent 200 to a TD5 in the link below but other than periodically draining some oil off does not come to any real conclusion: http://www.goingbush.com/defender.html I have heard good reports in that they really do stop oil carry over from the breather but you do need to either plumb the oil back into the sump or drain it off. You also need to replace the filters every so often. - something to consider. Toby
  8. Thanks all for the replies and offers. At the moment not doing anything as I am back in South Africa working. I still need to get the engine running right on the existing Solex before I start doing any playing around and this will have to wait until I have fixed a CV on my 110 first!! One thing i have found out is that this SU is actually bigger than then the original Solex. The SU is rated for 110 CFM but as yet have not found out what the CFM for the Solex is. As for the spindle bushes, they feel fine but I would strip down first and check it all before i fitted it. Toby
  9. It’s a series 1 engine - 1997 ioe engine. The SU carb from a P4 engine was considered an upgrade (along with the alloy head)
  10. I was surprised how old it was and the size was a concern but it is the same size as the Solex that is on there at the moment. Not sure how the CFM compares though. The float chamber is fixed on this and definitely is a downdraught. I have had the previous engine running with it but that had other issues that were not going to be fixed in a hurry! It is only food for thought at the minute as the Land Rover has other issues from being laid up since 1992. Toby
  11. Thanks - may be the dashpot oil filling point is original after all! Toby
  12. Hi All I have posted in the International as this a carb question and not just series related - moderators please move if needed. In my new found enthusiasm for getting my Series 1 back up and running, I was rummaging through my spares and found an SU carb that was previously attached to another Series 1 I have owned in the past. The engine never ran right because it was simply worn out with no compression and used more oil than petrol, but it did have an SU on it that I kept. Now because I have a better liking for SU carbs over the Solex that were originally fitted with I am thinking it may be an interesting little project to put on my present Series 1 which has a 1997 spreadbore engine that was completely rebuilt 22,000 miles ago. The question is what did this carb come from? I thought it may have been from a P4 engine but they are side draught. From the way the fuel bowl is mounted it looks like it was originally a downdraught carb but the way of adding oil to the dashpot does not look very original!! The carb is an 1 1/4 inch bore. The carb is all free and despite its present looks is actually not in bad condition. I would still like to give it a strip down and clean up (new needle valve, spindle bushes, seals etc) but what does it come from - may well make getting bits easier? I may have to send Burnlen the pictures but thought I would ask here first. Toby
  13. It lives - coil was knackered. Runs very lumpy and suspect the carb is fill of s...t. Moving in the right direction. Brakes, dynamo, clutch fuel pump (running off a temporary supply of fresh petrol at the minute) and we may be getting somewhere! Toby
  14. Thanks - I didnt know the master cylinders were hard to get. This will be the third it has had! Toby
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