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About Landrovernuts

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    Old Hand

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    Teign Valley, Exeter

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  1. Thanks all for the replies and offers. At the moment not doing anything as I am back in South Africa working. I still need to get the engine running right on the existing Solex before I start doing any playing around and this will have to wait until I have fixed a CV on my 110 first!! One thing i have found out is that this SU is actually bigger than then the original Solex. The SU is rated for 110 CFM but as yet have not found out what the CFM for the Solex is. As for the spindle bushes, they feel fine but I would strip down first and check it all before i fitted it. Toby
  2. It’s a series 1 engine - 1997 ioe engine. The SU carb from a P4 engine was considered an upgrade (along with the alloy head)
  3. I was surprised how old it was and the size was a concern but it is the same size as the Solex that is on there at the moment. Not sure how the CFM compares though. The float chamber is fixed on this and definitely is a downdraught. I have had the previous engine running with it but that had other issues that were not going to be fixed in a hurry! It is only food for thought at the minute as the Land Rover has other issues from being laid up since 1992. Toby
  4. Thanks - may be the dashpot oil filling point is original after all! Toby
  5. Sorry forgot to add the pictures!
  6. Hi All I have posted in the International as this a carb question and not just series related - moderators please move if needed. In my new found enthusiasm for getting my Series 1 back up and running, I was rummaging through my spares and found an SU carb that was previously attached to another Series 1 I have owned in the past. The engine never ran right because it was simply worn out with no compression and used more oil than petrol, but it did have an SU on it that I kept. Now because I have a better liking for SU carbs over the Solex that were originally fitted with I am thinking it may be an interesting little project to put on my present Series 1 which has a 1997 spreadbore engine that was completely rebuilt 22,000 miles ago. The question is what did this carb come from? I thought it may have been from a P4 engine but they are side draught. From the way the fuel bowl is mounted it looks like it was originally a downdraught carb but the way of adding oil to the dashpot does not look very original!! The carb is an 1 1/4 inch bore. The carb is all free and despite its present looks is actually not in bad condition. I would still like to give it a strip down and clean up (new needle valve, spindle bushes, seals etc) but what does it come from - may well make getting bits easier? I may have to send Burnlen the pictures but thought I would ask here first. Toby
  7. It lives - coil was knackered. Runs very lumpy and suspect the carb is fill of s...t. Moving in the right direction. Brakes, dynamo, clutch fuel pump (running off a temporary supply of fresh petrol at the minute) and we may be getting somewhere! Toby
  8. Thanks - I didnt know the master cylinders were hard to get. This will be the third it has had! Toby
  9. Thanks - I cannot get to it until next weekend again now but will try again then. Points are OK but no spark across them if you open them manually. I have got some new plugs, new points and condenser coming. I think I may just get a coil as they are not expensive. The other puzzeling thing is the charge light is not coming on when you turn the ignition on (oil light was disconnected in favour of a gauge) almost like the feed from the switch is not working so may have to investigate that and sounds like it is it is part of the problem. wipers work though when ignition is on! Wiring loom was new when rebuilt so cannot be too serious a problem!!! As for the series 1, yes an 88" with the original paint work (scrubs up well though), but total nut and bolt job done on everything other than the body. It was my first car and I first drove in when I lived on the middle of Exmoor when was 11 (I have owned it since 1984 - my father said it was cheaper than buying a radio control car!!). The brakes are seized at the minute, but a new master cylinder and wheel cylinders should sort that. Every thing else seems ok - surprising for so long in storage. Toby
  10. Is CB negative and the ignition feed positive on the coil? If so, that is how my poorly functioning brain told me to do, but still no spark. Ammeter does not dip either when the ignition is turned on (used to slightly) - suspect coil? Toby
  11. Morning All I have recently got my series 1 out of long term storage (since 1992). I am trying to get it running again and have an issue with the coil wiring - what is the correct way to wire the coil on a positive earth system as my brain is struggling this morning?!! Toby
  12. I have not had any issues with my Marsland chassis either although the person that changed it said it was out of alignment which has since been proved as not the case. Yes the Marslands chassis comes from GKN and as part of the issues I have with my so called expert chassis changer (more an egg spurt), I had an Certificate of Authenticity supplied by GKN. When I ordered my chassis it only took 3 weeks before it was ready, but that was two years ago and I was offered the choice of rear crossmembers. Toby
  13. I have exactly the same issue on my TD5. I thought it was the rocker cover gasket and replaced it a couple of times before I looked into the problem abit deeper where I found that I have a small leak on my cam carrier joint right at the very back of the engine. This drips down the back and ends up dripping from the bell housing like the crank seal has gone. As my leak is just an occasional drip it is staying like it at present as it is a head off job to fix (head bolts go through the cam carrier). Toby
  14. That makes absolute sense. Thanks. Toby
  15. Hi All Can anyone let me know if there is a low pressure clutch inhibit (or anything else) that will stop the AC clutch from operating on a 2002 defender TD5? After last years chassis change, the wife would now like the AC functional again and since the system was degassed I have purchased a new dryer and will fit it just before the system is recharged. New O rings have been fitted to the pipe flanges and other than filling with gas I should be ready to go for nitrogen purge, leak test and some Freon. So I thought I would just test it all worked and cannot get the AC compressor clutch to operate. Evaporator fan all works and I have checked the condenser fan and compressor clutch with the Nanocom on test and all works perfectly for the duration of the test. I assume from this that the circuits are all good but something is telling the clutch not to operate when I operate the temperature control and fan switch. I did swap the fan relay and clutch relays around and carried out some brief electrical testing for live feeds etc and all seems good but not knowing the system very well, I thought I would ask here before I look deeper! Toby
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