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P38 Thor - Engine Disabled and Locked Doors - HELP


sz00

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Hi all,

I really hope that someone can help me with the following issue I am having with my P38 (sort of my fault :( ).

To start with the car is 2000 Range Rover 4.6 (thor engine).

Earlier this morning I disconnected the battery for 1/2 hour and since then I cannot get the car started and now I can’t even get any of the doors unlocked and my only way inside is through the open window.

Before I disconnected the battery the key fob was working OK.

After connecting the battery again I got in the car and when attempted to start the car I got the following message: “engine disabled/ press remote or enter keycode”. Nothing happened when pressing the remote so I thought I’d try entering the EKA via the door lock. I followed the procedure from the owners manual extremely carefully but it still didn’t work - it looks like I am having a faulty latch/switch as now the key wouldn’t even unlock the door (it locked/unlocked it couple of times but no more :( ).

When I pull up the tabs from inside the doors are still locked and at the moment I cannot open any door.  
 

I have already spoke with some very kind and knowledgable people and tried couple of things like pressing the unlock button on the keyfob whilst turning the the key into the second ignition position hoping to resynchronise the key fob but that didn’t work neither.

If I have nanocom would I be able to enter the EKA and unlock all doors and  start the engine? 
 

if my only way to fix this is to replace the door latch assembly (I strongly suspect it is faulty now) what is the best way of opening the door when it is locked/seized like mine :( ? 
 

Any other advises wil be really really appreciated 

Many Thanks,

Jay

 

 

 


 

 


 

 

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If the doors are not opening with the key, it's likely that the rod from the key barrel to the latch has come lose (the eye at the barrel is prone to breaking). In that case the latch isn't getting any inputs, so even if the switches are fine, nothing will happen. As you can't open them from the inside either, the car has been superlocked, possibly while trying to input the EKA code while the connection to the latch was failing.

It's very difficult to get the door card off with the door closed without damaging it, but that's the only way to get to the connecting rod and latch. The door outstation that control the lock functions are also inside the door. Synchronizing the remote (usually needed after disconnecting the battery) wont be possibly with the alarm triggered and again you need the mechanical input from the key. 

Nanocom or similar allows you to enter the EKA directly, but I have had little success when the alarm is already triggered. Which kinda defeats the purpose of being able to...

If you do get the doorcard off, you can pigtail the wires to get everything unlocked again and enter the EKA, even with broken switches.

I've attached the procedure to test the latches, that can also be used to pigtail failing switches.

Filip

P38 Door Latch Tests.pdf

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Thank you very much Filip, sounds like getting the door card off is my first step in resolving this. Any advices on what is the best way to do that and cause minimal amount of damage?

Also do you have any basic diagram showing what wires would I need to pigtail when I eventually get to the plug inside the door? Aahhhh, I should have never disconnected that battery - regretting that so much now :( 

 

Thanks again for your input - really appreciate it :) 

Edited by sz00
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All, for anyone following this discussion or perhaps is stressing over a similar issue here is what I did to get mine resolved with the enormous help of some very knowledgable P38 enthusiasts.  

Back on the issue - no matter how many times I tried to lock/unlock the door with the key it just would not do it - it felt like the key was moving as it should with no apparent resistance and from looking from the top (with the window fully down) the mechanism appeared to be moving as it should when the vehicles is in a superlocked state... 

I then sharpened a long (about 70/80cm)  8mm round steel bar preparing to smash the latch into pieces as last measure as it was obvious something wasn’t quite right as the key just wouldn’t unlock it. Despite that the mechanism appeared to move correctly I thought I’d try and push on the lever (with the long steel bar) whilst turning the key clockwise (unlocking)  and as soon as I did that I heard that wonderful clicking sound of the latch unlocking!!! :)

I then simply held the unlock button on the key fob whilst turning the key into the ignition and then I heard the central locking unlocking all doors. Turned the key a bit more and the engine started straight away... :)

Later when I took the door card off to see what’s going on I noticed the true cause of the issue - at some point in the past someone replaced the proper key barrel to latch rod with some flexible rod/string  which bends when forced with the key rather than push on the latch tab... 

Here are some photos aiming to show where I pressed on with the bar to unlock the door: 

1F5E91AD-8FC8-4D83-AD5A-E162D90C534E.jpeg

CE75AF98-4422-4FFD-98EB-6B0B57FA98A4.jpeg

1FD13092-F13F-4651-B6D6-03EA1BFAD5B8.jpeg

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Great fix and good of you to share the picture!

I'm amazed you've managed to reach the lever on the latch without taking the doorcard off.

Those rods are easily available (ALR5192 for RHD) or from cars broken up by other forum members.

Filip

 

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