Escape

Maybe I wasn't clear (quite likely 😉 ). It is my understanding any ECU can be made to run stand alone, provided you can get deep enough into to code to convince it all criteria are met. No doubt that is a lot easier to do on some ECUs compared to others, but I'm not that versed in the details.

My understanding is this cannot be done with the typical user diagnostics like Nanocom or Hawkeye, but only with proper reprogramming equipment. But glad to be proven wrong. 🙂

But so can the Disco ones, so not much to gain there. 😉

I'd have no problems picking a dream team from the members here. Funding is another matter...

The Defender TD5 does have an alarm module that incorporates an immobiliser, I don't think they can be run stand alone. I posted a link some time ago to a company that offers a bypass for several Land Rover vehicles/ engines: No personal experience though.

They could have just fitted a decent winch to an 80+ year old Porsche (and maybe fettled the engine a bit to be able to cope with the altitude): More to the point, wouldn't it have been much more logical to start from a Cayenne and use interconnected airsprings like LR does? Of course that would make it clear Porsche is no longer a sports car manufacturer. I'm sure the marketing guys did the maths and concluded that the expense is warranted as it will validate a price increase over the entire 911 range and the addition of a couple of ludicrously expensive special editions. Maybe we should try a similar expedition with an old Land or Range Rover. Anyone into crowd funding? 😁

Indeed, that should have read 'they're too old to be of interest'. My bad, I should read before posting, sorry.

The last thing you want to do is take a P38 to a main dealer. They're to be of interest to them and chances someone there actually knows the P38 and cares enough to work on one are slim to none. Your best bet is an independent with some experience. But first have a proper and methodical look yourself. And to help us help you, what year is your car? There are some differences between pre and post '99. - do you get any error messages (like engine disabled)? If not, unlikely to be the immobiliser - have you checked the inertia switch? - if you jump the fuel pump relay, is fuel actually getting to the engine? Push the schrader valve on the rail or better still, put a pressure gauge on it. - do you have spark? - have you tried starting with the jumper for the fuel pump relay? Filip

I'm sure I would very much prefer your 91 Audi to any of the current VAG offerings. They seem to have a tendency to put your nose against the screen as soon as you even look at the brake pedal...

https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/ But that's vehicle based, so you'd need to have a good idea of what the donor car for the engine was. Some useful exploded views and gives you an idea of availability as well.

Also have a good look at the connections to the battery terminals. Using jumpleads you take them out of the equation. The starter and everything else remains the same, so I wouldn't expect a jump to consistently cure a bad starter or problem in the fusebox/wiring (though more oomph can mask problems of course).

Pad material with a higher friction coefficient will bite into the disc at lower pressure, so you need less pedal effort. 😉 The opposite happens when your discs are wet/muddy or the pads glazed and you need a lot of pressure to get the pads to bite.

A mate uses yellow stuff on his 4.6 RRC and is very pleased with it. Before I used green stuff and didn't have complaints, now I also have yellow sets ready for both the P38 and Esprit, but sadly neither is on the road yet...

Only the last V8s, with the Bosch EFI and alloy sump that bolts to the bellhousing, use a rubber gasket, LVF100400. It wont fit any of the older engines. I tried to adapt it when working on my first V8 but quickly gave up and used RTV instead.

I've you're not fixed on Reims, Laon would be a good alternative. Much smaller but nicer, with lots of old buildings and good cafés.