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  1. Escape

    Decent Aerial

    After I bent the original one while offroading I replaced the aerial on my Defender with a cheap flexible one of about 50cm. I had tilted close against the window and never noticed any loss of reception compared to original.
  2. Escape

    EAS timer relay location

    I'll see if I can PM the manual. You ca fit a switch on the feed wire, or even fit a second relay that is ignition switched. We did this before I found out the pin-out of the timer is compatible with a normal 4-pin relay. Which is a much easier mod than adding a switch or relay. Only downside of the removing the timer relay is you need to refit it to run EAS diagnostics, as it tells the ECU to go into diagnostic mode (this can be done manually by turning the power on and off while connecting the diagnostic as well). A switch would have the advantage you can turn the EAS off on the fly if you detect or suspect a problem, and prevent it from lowering to access mode as can happen when there is a hard fault. Greetz, Filip
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    EAS timer relay location

    Just stick with it, it's not that complicated a system to maintain once you know how it works. Any specific problems that have you worried? One of the advantages of using a standard relay instead of the timer to prevent leveling is if you have a leak, you'll know which corner to look at. I can send you the LR EAS manual with the diagrams etc if you think it will be helpful. Greetz, Filip
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    EAS timer relay location

    I'm the one who posted about replacing the timer with a standard 4-pin relay on RangeRovers.net. 😉 I can confirm it will work on the Classic as well. The timer module should be located under the right hand seat, along with the ECU and other relays for the EAS. You could also use the disable switch at the back of the seat, that should prevent leveling but the ECU will still wake up every 6 hours. Greetz, Filip
  5. Escape

    Build or buy? 30t Press

    We have the 20ton model and had a similar one before. Does the job, but could do with some extra strengthening. The old one ended up a bit bent, and the new one is going the same way (also after doing some bushes on a P38). Nothing a few bits of well placed angle iron can't fix, still very good value for money IMHO.
  6. Escape

    Silverstone classic

    Looks and sounds great, I'll try and make it next year!
  7. Escape

    P38 - EAS troubleshooting

    What puzzles me is you say the EAS lowered after you disconnected the battery. That can only be because of leaks in the bags or valve block. The other symptoms point to a lack of pressure. Probably a combination of worn compressor and leaky valves/connections (to the tank for example). A good way to test without stressing the compressor is to use a shop compressor to put air into the tank via the top line from the dryer, as Elbekko says. We both own P38s, so very happy to help out. Great cars, but it helps to get to know them to work out issues with EAS etc. Filip
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    P38 Low Range Gremlin

    According to the wiring diagrams, the neutral switch (X293) is only used (or present) on manual transmissions. So the description seems to be wrong/incomplete in the later manual, it is correctly described in the early editons, when the manual was also available on the V8. On an autobox the TC ECU uses the signals from the XYZ-switch. If you never get N to light up, chances are the BECM never knows the box is in N and so will never send the appropriate signal to the TC ECU. Rave only lists this as 'output', but doesn't state the voltage. To complicate matters further, the TC ECU has a different pin-out for petrol/diesel and manual/automatic...
  9. Escape

    Outside Temperature Sensor - P38 DSE?

    Most faults are indeed cleared at switch on, at least until the problem occurs again. Something like a disconnected sensor or A/C compressor might be bad enough to throw a hard fault. Which still wouldn't stop the other functions form operating as expected.
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    Outside Temperature Sensor - P38 DSE?

    Good you got that sorted! The HVAC will need to have the faults cleared, but it should work if there aren't any major physical problems.
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    300Tdi wont rev

    An update, to provide closure to this topic. Our initial optimism proved unfounded, as the car still didn't pull as it should. 50mph max on a good run, so not usable on motorways or such. After going over everything once more (checking timing, confirming boost, adjusting boost compensator, ...) we decided to take it to a diesel specialist to have the injection pump checked. The verdict was a worn but usable pump, and they could adjust the pressure settings to give reasonably good power with just a wiff of black smoke. When driving it back, I actually had to brake for a speed camera, so everything seems good. 🙂 What's puzzling is that the FIP appeared to do a good job on the old engine. Yet once transferred to the 'new' engine, performance was poor. Totally unexpected, which is why we ignored the pump as long possible, as it was supposedly a known good item. All's well that ends well, a shame it took so long... The owner did get to borrow my Lotus Excel a couple of times, for a classic car run he intended to do with his Defender. Filip
  12. Escape

    Outside Temperature Sensor - P38 DSE?

    There should be a 2-wire black connector behind the bumper, under the A/C fans, where the sensor connects to. From there the wiring goes to a big 14-wire white connector in the LH footwell. There are pics in Rave to help you.
  13. Escape

    Outside Temperature Sensor - P38 DSE?

    -40° is the default value for maximum resistance or open circuit. So it could be the sensor really is missing. Did you ever get a normal reading for the temperature? I ca also confirm the diesel engine can't have the fans switched on by the engine ECM, only by the A/C pressure switches. So your overheating problem has a different cause. If it happens in traffic, it could be the viscous fan that slips too much to provide enough airflow at low rpm. But could also be the water pump not giving enough flow or the radiator that has lost too much efficiency to cope with the lower air and coolant flow when idling. At least head gasket failure is unlikely, as that would be most obvious under load. Filip
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    Two or Four post lift

    Last Friday I finally got 'round to installing out 4-poster. A second hand 5ton one, that was sitting on the trailer for the last 2 weeks due to lack of time and/or other priorities. Half a day to bolt everything down and another hour or so to connect wiring and fill the hydraulics on Tuesday evening. And it was immediately put to good use: we took out the gearbox on my Range Rover to replace the broken pins in the clutch fork (really, 2cent pins on a £50k vehicle instead of machining a keyway or something!). It felt so good to be able to work with the car on a lift again, after more then 3 years! :-) I'm planning to add a 2-poster in the near future as well, for versatility. It will be a tight fit though, the 5 ton 4-poster if significantly wider than the old 3 ton we had. And no matter how large you build, you'll always run out of space sooner rather then later... Filip
  15. Escape

    Common Wiring fault

    I've only replaced the injector harness when there's a problem of oil getting into the loom: AMR6103 Repeated cleaning of the connector at the ECU can be necessary, but as long as no new oil can get in, it should soon end. Filip

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