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Escape last won the day on April 22

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  1. When removind the EGR, I always remove the cooler as well (when present). As you say, just join the water pipes. But be careful, they can be brittle and break. You can also unplug and remove the vacuum valves etc, adding more lightness. Filip
  2. Did a few more checks, unfortunatley still haven't solved the problem. - we put in a pedal from another D2, made no difference - replaced the fuel pressure regulator. It was sweating a bit, but not leaking. As it was the last part in the fuel system we hadn't replaced, it was worth a shot. Car started easily after bleeding, all seemd well. Then on the next attempt, easy start but back to limp mode for about a minute before it would respond to throttle. - an experienced (now retired) LR mechanic had a look, checked all my work, could find nothing wrong and is also at a loss... Filip
  3. Good work Simon! As you say, once you feel the car wanting to move, oil is getting where it needs to be, mainly the torque converter. One thing I would do differently compared to the list above, is remove the filler plug first. That way you're sure it can be removed (they can be pretty stuck on if not removed for some time), and it will give you a more steady flow when draining. I also think it doesn't matterif the gearbox isn't cold when draining, just be careful with hot oil spilling (just like you would when draining the engine). Letting it sit overnight definitely helps, 7 to 8 litres is what I usually get out. Filip
  4. This very system was used in an prototype, 50s US, with the spare wheel at the end of the boot. It did work, but was too complicated and thus too expensive to put into production. And now every car has sensors and/or cameras and most high end cars can park themselves, so little point in revisiting the technology. Appearantly the technology dates back to the 1930s, but was only patented in the 50s. Also, with a Defender you can always make the parking space a bit bigger by moving the cars in front and behind. 😈 Filip
  5. Have to tried syncing the remotes? You put the key in the door and lock (or unlock) while pressing the corresponding button on the remote. That should mate the code transmited to the alarm. Also, make sure you have the EKA (emergency access code) when using just the key. Should the alarm be triggered, you wont be able to start the engine with just the key. Filip
  6. You can get a 12V timer relay at most electrickery shops. This one would do: https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/adjustable-delay-timer-relay-delay-on-or-off-12v-10a.html Then you only need a resistor (around 500ohm if I remember) and some wiring. I wold be wary to buy a black box from Ebay or such, unless you get a schematic and can verify what's inside (i.e. not just a resistor). Filip
  7. The ABS/TC error is likely due to a sensor. Get the codes read and you'll know a lot more. The poor hot starting is typical for the BMW-lump once they get older. They were set up too lean for emissions, so when parts start to wear and the timing isn't perfect anymore (due to the chain stretching), there's not enough left to ensure they always start. The problem isn't the glow plugs, it's the fueling. There is an easy fix: you add a timer relay wth an additional resistor to the engine coolant sensor, so the ECU sees a lower temperature and will richen the fueling to start. The timer is important to make sure after 30 sec or so the ECU sees the correct temperature and doesn't continue running rich. A lot of the cheap hot start fixes are just a resistor or only make the glow plugs come on. Filip
  8. I can understand you want the gauge to read exactly right, but with the values above I'd say you're more than close enough. Especially considering the gauge has been opened and the faces swapped.
  9. I agree with above, capillary gauges tend to be more accurate. But it all depends on calibration, so as long as you know the gauge you're looking at, you can interpret the reading. Why do you doubt the accuracy? If there really is a leak, I'd expect the mist to quickly build up with use .An electrical one, while easier to calibrate, is susceptible to bad connections and voltage fluctuations and bound to give a different absolute reading, without necessarily being more accurate. As an aside, in my Lotus Excel the oil pressure gauge needs to be mounted exactly right, or it will not return to 0 with engine off, or alternately harldy move with running engine. It's also a Smiths, I set it to get a reasonable reading and am happy to use it as a relative indication and not an absolute reading. Filip
  10. Very slowly... I've put the axles back together and installed the manual pedal box. Then other things got in the way again. As for the previous question( which I missed at the time), the rockers are Yella Terra roller rockers I got from V8 tuner. The heads are big valve 'Dakar' type (or so I'm told). They were on my previous P38, and well worth saving/recommissioning after the fire. I really should crack on, I've had most of the parts for about a year now. 😞 Filip
  11. I have a spare set, if you need some. We reused the original wiring loom but cut off the connectors for MS.
  12. Maybe something for a forum group buy? I'm sure there's enough interest. We have a few we use around the Workshop as well.
  13. As above, did you order a specific type of battery (i.e. Ah and CCA) or one that will fit your car? While a bigger battery is always better, as Fridge says a smaller one (and 74Ah is not that small) should be perfectly fine in a Series. So I don't think that's the problem. Filip
  14. Checking the relay works is easy, so start there. If it checks out, I'd see if it actually gets the command signal from the engine ECU. If not, a bad connection seems a likely cause (BY and BR wires). The BECM doesn't control the glow plugs, it just transmits the signal from the engine ECU to the dash, so no worries there. If you have diagnostics, it's a good idea to check the engine temperature. A fault in the sensor or wiring could cause the engine ECU not to turn on the glow plugs. And inject less fuel, making it hard/impossible to start. Filip
  15. With new glow plugs, I agree the relay/timer module is a likely suspect. However, the dashboard light is not controlled via the timer module, but by the BECM that receives a signal directly from the engine ECU.
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