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Escape

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Escape last won the day on October 1 2019

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About Escape

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    Speedfreak

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    Flanders

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  1. That does look nice! Appearantly there are 2 types of wood trim for the P38, the usual being burr walnutt and burr maple being used on the 30th anniversary it seems. Not sure if maple would be so dark in colour. What's keeping you from fixing this one and selling the other one? Or is there some emotional connection to the other one, like the reason I'm spending so much effort converting my first V8 to manual... Filip
  2. Something like https://www.landers-shop.fr/spare-wheel-carrier-def-half-door,us,4,DA2274.cfm would do the job. Not recommending that seller per se, just the first one I found with good pictures. Available at all the usual suspects, some claiming it fits both Series and Defender. Filip
  3. Escape

    TD5 to V8

    You should be able to find a running P38 for a good price. That will give you an engine and wiring loom, as well as the correct fuel pump and enough parts to sell on to buy you a MS. It is possible to run MS directly from the P38 flywheel and crank sensor, we have one in a Classic auto (with EDIS) and a 'prototype' on a P38 manual, with direct coil drive (thanks to @FridgeFreezer). The later Thor was never mated to a manual, so only has the flywheel for an autobox. You can mix and match, though manual flywheels for the later engines aren't that easy to find. Older flywheels don't have the timing teeth for the crank position sensor, which is why MS often uses a separate timing wheel. Filip
  4. Escape

    TD5 to V8

    Yes, the GEMS (and Bosch) need a signal from the immobiliser. In the P38 this comes from the BECM, easy enough to sync to a different P38, not so easy to run on its own. I'm not sure how it was done in the Defender 50th anniversary or the Disco2. Both do have a security module, so I guess it was modified to give a similar signal as the P38 BECM. TVR also used a variant of the same engine management at some point I believe, might be a possibility. Easiest, as Fridge says, is to go MegaSquirt. If only for all the extra possibilities when it comes to tuning. It's easy enough to use the standard loom (either 14CUx or GEMS) and wire it in to the MS connector. That way you can keep all the connectors to sensors etc, but it does limit you as to where you can mount the MegaSquirt because of cable length. Ideally mount it in the same spot as the standard ECU. Filip
  5. I do hope so... I'll need it for the EAS etc as well...
  6. Maybe we should consider a group buy of these T-shirts:
  7. I find (rusty) bolts have a habit of eating the recip blades as well. Maybe I'm not using the right ones, local store mainly has Bosch blades IIRC.
  8. 2009, our first trip to the motherland...
  9. So sell the Mini, buy the L322 5.0 and your car park will be consistent. 😉
  10. Yes, we've all been there, and not only with Land Rovers. I find if I lose motivation working on cars, I can usually find the energy to do some stuff around the hous (workshop) I'd been putting off. Afterwards I'm always glad to go back to mechanical problems. Driving also helps. Be it a working example of something less ordinary, or just some boring eurobox or japcrap, it usually makes you realize just why you think it's worth doing all the hard work. A friend recently explained his strategy of keeping 'to do' projects on a designated shelve, so if you have a bit of time it's easy to pick something up and do some work. Might not work with a bulkhead though... I also try and commit myself to doing some work on one of my own projects/cars each time I'm in the Workshop. Just so I don't forget why I started it in the first place, and it should ensure things keep moving forward. Taking the dog for a walk also helps, especially when you have a forest nearby and see all those tracks that would be so much fun if only you could finish your latest Landy project. 😉 Keep your spirit up! Filip
  11. As above, start with a good set of tyres, and run them at low pressure offroad. If you still need more traction, an ATB in the rear will be a lot of help. With reasonably sized tyres and some mechanical sympathy you should be fine with standard half shafts. Filip
  12. Does the tensioner move at all, i.e. did you have to turn it out off the way to get the belt fitted? The tensioner only fits in one position, with the locating dowel. Then the bolt needs to be fully tightened and the tensioner turned ccw against the internal spring to give clearance for fitting the belt. When released, it should apply tension to the belt. Also double check the belt is routed correctly.
  13. Or get the old one rebuild. We typically pay around €100 for the rebuild, looks like new and with 1 year warranty.
  14. First job was getting my courage up to make a list for 2020... Though there are timing restrictions, I'll keep the list random: really get started on the P38a 5.0 project and get it finished, so I can do some offroading in 2020. Would love to come to another playday with SLR! sort the overheating on the P38a 4.0 SE get the P38a DT driving and somewhat decent, so I can sell it on strip, store (and sell) 2 other P38a Lotus Esprit: redo the gearbox output seals, address a few engine oil leaks, take out the radiator and replace the coolant hoses, refurbish the interior (pretty worn after 150k miles, I've got the paint over a year ago...), rig in a good radio arial, fix cracks on front and rear bumper, maybe get it wrapped to cover up the tired paint. But before I can take it off the road for any time, I want the 5.0 up and running as a daily. Lotus Elan JPS: get it running again (ignition issues coming off the ferry in Dover resulted in a trailer ride back home 😞), pull engine and gearbox and see what happend to 1st, fit a period radio and clean up the boot trim: Lotus Excel: get the carbs tuned, sort the electrics and brake servo, rent it out (already booked for May) and then sell it on. take on less customers, so I have more time to play with my own cars 🙂 Best wishes and lots of motoring fun to all! Filip
  15. I always wire a winch back to the battery. As said above, that gives you less connections and so a better chance of having a low resistance. I did make an exception on a Tdci I recently fitted a winch to. The battery negative is crimped and hard to get a good connection for an extra cable. But there is a very good earthpoint close by on the transfer box, with a nice thick cable directly from the battery. So I wired the winch earth to that and double checked to make sure resistance was <0.1ohm from battery to winch. I wouldn't trust just any chassis earth point. As TSD says, a typical battery switch is more than that, but you do want one of those. On the same car, I needed to fit a battery main cut-off. Normally I would put that in the negative cable, but that would mean the current for the winch has to pass 2 switches. So I wired the winch cut-off in parallel with the main cut-off, both directly off the battery positive. Should be as good as it can be. Filip
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