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  1. Escape

    Thoughts and musings on the new defender

    Even better, both the Classic (with Borg Warner viscous) and P38 can drive with either front or rear propshaft removed. The chain drive goes to the body of the center diff. The viscous coupling locks front and rear outputs, so drive remains available to the side that has traction even if the other side has no resistance at all. This is different to the torsen center diff in the L322. I was very disappointed to find those are immobilized if the front or rear prop fails. So much for progress... As for TC, just want to add that I do see the many advantages of the system. It was a great help in my Defender TD5 and I've seen it at work a lot in P38, D3/4 and FL2. It really makes a differences and can get those cars through obstacles you wouldn't think possible. So I'm sure the new Defender with the latest terrain response will be a great performer, as as FF says accessible to all. But for ultimate offroad performance, it will never match a mechanical locking diff. As a fit-and-forget solution, an ATB or torsen is probably the best compromise. Personally I like to play with buttons and feel in control. Which is why I also prefer an old notchy gearbox to the flappy paddles of today's sports cars. Filip
  2. Escape

    battery isolate

    What exactly do you want to achieve by installing a battery switch? Prevent battery drain, emergency shut down of the engine, theft protection (battery key), ... ? If it's just to isolate the battery, I'd use the negative. This will offer the best safety when working on the car, as you don't have a (short) live section from battery + to switch. But that would make it impossible to keep the radio (at least I can't think of a good solution). To cut the engine, you need to do some rewiring or use a suitable switch to prevent the alternator from keeping the engine (a)live. As discussed. For the radio I'd use a dedicated wire (with fuse) from battery + to the radio (and possibly interior lights, central locking, alarm etc while you're at it). Depending on the car, this could become rather complex. Filip
  3. Escape

    headlight bulb upgrade options

    Rough roads could be the cause. Although Belgian roads aren't great, I'm not doing much offroading lately unfortunately. This could also explain why the one bulb failed rather early and all others are still good.
  4. Escape

    Thoughts and musings on the new defender

    I have to agree with Jamie. I loved the traction control on my Defender, it was a huge help when I started offroading and managed to correct many of my mistakes. But mechanical difflocks are even better. Which is why I upgraded to ARBs (and later Ashcroft lockers on the Rangie). Torque will always be transferred to the wheel(s) with the most grip, without having to create wheelspin first to let the traction control know how to intervene. There are some situation where you want a bit of speed difference, as in turns. Lockers will cause some wheelspin, but no more than traction control needs to engage in any situation. The big downside to mechanical full locking diffs is the driver needs to know what he/she is doing. Like disengage when back on solid surfaces. Traction control takes away all responsibility, which is pretty much what all modern cars are about... Even Lotus doesn't offer a car without traction control anymore. So I doubt the new Defender will get locking diffs. But I'm sure it will do very well with terrain response in most situations, and more importantly, will do so regardless of driver skill. Filip
  5. Escape

    headlight bulb upgrade options

    @Retroanaconda strange the Nightbreakers don't last long with you. I've had them in both the Esprit and Rangie for 3 years and about 100k km between the both of them and only needed to replace a single bulb.
  6. Escape

    headlight bulb upgrade options

    Another vote for the Nightbreakers. I have them in all my cars.
  7. Escape

    forum relay from Lancashire

    A big thanks to @Anderzander, @Retroanaconda, @Ed Poore and of course @FridgeFreezer, who delivered the parts at the workshop yesterday. 🖕
  8. Escape

    Parts described as OEM

    I recently had a customer come in with a diesel leak. Turned out the fuel filter has rusted through. A genuine LR item, a few years old, and not too much crud around it. Not impressed by the quality of genuine items... Those filters aren't cheap either!
  9. Escape

    Windscreen Woes

    as above, just go around tapping the seal firmly to the frame to take out the slack. It can take a few rounds to get it to seat, but it should fit. Getting the glass in is another challenge...
  10. Escape

    New LT230 ratios

    I'm thinking the 1.1 would be a pretty good match with portal boxes as well. 🙂
  11. Escape

    2003 Range Rover HSE

    10Nm according to the workshop manual, both for the TD6 and 4.4 V8. Seems low, too low for most torquewrenches. I would use a 1/4" ratchet and tighten them by feel, little risk of breaking anything with a 1/4" unless you're really trying.
  12. Escape

    TD5 stuck wastegate?

    If the wastegate is stuck closed, boost pressure will rise above save levels and the ECU will cut fuel (above 2.2 MAP IIRC), this will feel like a misfire. I had a customer with similar symptoms, took some work but once freed and properly adjusted, it drove fine again. Filip
  13. Escape

    Clutch problems?

    I've had similar with a P38. Bleeding the slave would solve it, for a few days. Once I forgot to fully tighten the cap on the reservoir, and that did solve it. Never could figure out the actual cause, only thing I can think of is that when the brake pump fills the accumulator it was also sucking back fluid from the master, and letting air in. Maybe because the vent in the cap was blocked?
  14. Escape

    castor alloy wheels

    If they're ali, they should be worth a bit. I got €1/kg last time, not bad if you've got a full set of wheels.
  15. Escape

    forum relay from Lancashire

    Excellent guys! Beers will be owed should we meet. 😉

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