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Escape

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Escape last won the day on May 5

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  1. Yep, that looks about right! I should have known to look at YRM. Though I'm not sure if they're welded or bolted on the later RRC. Pipes are routed differently, behind the spring mount to allow for the damper at the front when EAS is fitted. Thanks again! Filip
  2. Looking forward to their next great adventure, going shopping in a mall IN ANOTHER TOWN! Looks like this was their first, and probably last time offroad. Pretty much the audience LR seems to target these days...
  3. For a late RRC, the brackets that support the brake hoses where they join the pipes on the inner wheel arch. I've found the lower brackets, on the swivel balls (FTC1362 and FTC1363). But no trace of the upper ones in microcat or parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com. Maybe they're not available separately? The wheel arches have been repaired, the brackets are missing. Which makes it hard to properly route and support the brake lines. Thanks! Filip
  4. The speedo will read half the speed of the free spinning wheel (the average of 0 and free speed), as in the first example you give.
  5. The owner, Peter Lamb, is retired now, and well deserved. But you're certainly not the only one missing their excellent products!
  6. Best to bleed at the wheels manually, or at least check after using diagnostics. Why did you replace the modulator? Could there have been another fault that is still present and now causing the bleed problems? You are correct there are 2 totally separate circuits, from the master on. So you can undo the lines coming from the master at the modulator to verify you have equal flow in both. We had a similar problem a while ago, only one system operational. I ended up taking the (new) master off the booster and carefully refitting and everything was fine. Never found out the the actual cause, misalgnement of the actuating rod seems most likely. Filip
  7. Nice clip and nice car! I'm not usually a fan of roo-bars, in this case I think it really improves the looks. I still think it would be even more fun in an older LR/RR, preferably with lockers (the new one isn't standard either, so some modifications can be justified IMHO). The independant suspension might have a small edge because of more clearance in the deep ruts, I remember last year an L322 on ATs just managing where a Defender on MT bottomed out. Would be great to drive similar tracks in our P38s! 😎
  8. It would work, but wont be easy. The Borg Warner for the P38 has a different internal shift mechanisme, with a rotating selector shaft that has a spiral groove machined that moves the fork as the shaft rotates. This is a totally different mechanisme as on the older Borg Warner. Those have a small lever acting directly on the selector fork. You can not just fit a P38 actuator to it, you could possily use a small pneumatic actuator or even an electric one. I looked at doing it the other way around, replacing the actuator of the P38 with a simple lever system (never got as far as to where I would have to mount that...) but decided against it because the rotation required is around 270°, so not easily translated to a lever. On the older boxes there is much less rotation, but more force required, so much better suited for a lever. Adn as said with a push-pull cable you have some freedom where to put it. I would have prefered a lever to be honest, but went for the next best thing to at least get rid of the ECU. If you're still interested despite the above, do read on. 😉 The P38 actuator itself is similar to one for a window, sunroof or even wiper: an electric motor with a worm driving a big gear that drives the shaft. It also incorporates a position switch. The way it is set up means high and low postions are not at the end of travel, so ideally you want to use the position switch. I briefly considered using just a 3 position momentary switch, but decided against it because you have no way of knowing the exact position of the selector. And you want the gears properly engaged, without stalling the electric motor at the end position. That works in an emergency, for example when the transfer ECU dies while in low and you use pigtails on the connector to get back to high. With the engine off you can hear the electric motor and even then you get sparks by the time you remove the pigtails. So not something to use on a regular basis. With the proper controller, the motor stops where you want it and it will also allow feedback, so the motor engages (either way) until it reaches the preset position. With cyclic loads applied there is always the chance the selector would move and the gears could disengage. That happens when you remove the actuator completely, you can manually select high or low while under the car, but as you drive off it could slip to neutral. Not fun when on the road with a loaded trailer and no hard shoulder to pull over to. With a P38 actuator and an all-relay controller like I'm using it's easy enough to have the same feedback as with the standard ECU. But it's a lot more complicated than just adapting the lever. Filip
  9. I should have been more specific, I was talking about situations like in the Russian video, lots of mud and road biased tyres. I too have experienced the new Defender's TC offroad, as long as there was any traction, it moved off seamlessly. But that was all on dry terrain, not muddy tracks. There you will need to apply enough throttle to give the tyres a chance to clean, I'd say even more so with the TC as it will be sapping some power controlling the spin. Most of all, my comment was directed at the poor driving skills, not just taking it easy but actually stopping instead of trying to power through. As I said before, it's a testament to Terrain Response that it was able to keep the car moving. So while I may not be a fan of the new Defender, I do acknowledge it's capabilities and do not doubt the Terrain Response. It's just that I prefer to drive myself rather than sit back and leave it all to a computer. Same reason I use classic cars with as little assistance as possible as a daily drivers. Filip
  10. That does look like a nice set. I particularly like the double sized sockets, so you don't have to look for the next size up if you find one or more nuts have swollen a bit. I'd consider buying it, if I hadn't recently gotten a long reach impact socket set in the same sizes as well as a 1"1/8 socket I use for swollen LR nuts. It's on the large side, but I couldn't find a 28mm so it will have to do the job. And by the time they've swollen, I'm not really concerned if some additional damage should occur.
  11. In the Russian video it's impressive how the terrain response copes with the poor driving and manages to keep the Defender moving. I'm not really surprised, as that is exactly what it's meant for, getting the car places the driver would otherwise never reach. It also proves how little driver involvement is really needed, and that's what puts me off modern stuff. Clearly to give the traction control a chance you need to apply a decent amount of power, not trundle about and stop at the most inappropriate times, especially on road biased tyres. I can understand him being somewhat cautious with a new an expensive vehicle, but if you take it to a pay an play you'd better drive it like you mean. Still good to see the new Defender being used and no doubt enjoyed off road. Filip
  12. You mean the microswitches in the latch? They can cause lots of issues, including with the immobiliser/EKA, but I'm puzzled how the central locking could work with the key if there's a problem with the switches. Interested to learn more! And of course happy you found the cause and it was an easy fix. 😉 Filip
  13. I wouldn't trust it... I had a similar problem with a water pump for Porker a while ago, very slightly rubbing not on the pump housing but on the casting of the coolant channel in the block after tightening all the bolts. As those pumps are neither cheap nor easy to find, I used a file to increase clearance until it was spinning freely and silently. But if you have the chance to return it, that seems like the obvious choice. Filip
  14. I got motivated to do some assembling yesterday, with the help of @elbekko. Transfer box (from a low mileage diesel, so should be in good shape), gearbox rebuilt by us as detailed earlier and selector housing (also from the diesel) have been put together. Next step is to put to clean the front cover and fit the new oil pump, so the engine can be closed up and sump fitted. Then we can take it off the engine stand to fit the clutch and arrange a romantic get together with the gearbox assembly. I'll try and get that done by the time the 2-poster becomes available again (currently occupied by an RRC that needs 'some' welding). With body off it will be easy to fit the engine/gearbox to the rolling chassis and new brake lines, fuel tank etc to the body. I don't look forward to trimming the wheel arches, but will need doing if I want to fit the Baja Claws. no pain, no gain. Somebody hinted Seven Sisters would make an excellent deadline, he's not wrong! There is the small matter of a Milemarker that needs a full rebuild as well, so it will take time. Filip
  15. I made a rookie mistake and looked at the pictures while having breakfast. Now I have quite a mess to clean up... Why????
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