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disco 200tdi crankshaft pulley/damper

cactus jack

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;) I have had trouble with the crankshaft pulley coming loose. I have taken the pulley off and can see that the keyway has been gauged out by the key, so I have purchased a new damper. I poked a scribe inside the hole in the cover and can feel whatever is left of the key, but cannot see it (don't want to take timing belt cover etc off). Some say to fit the new damper with plenty of threadlock or chemical metal. Any ideas????
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I fixed this the other day on a 200.

I made a bit of tube slightly too small to fit over the end of the crankshaft, and a reasonable fit inside the crank pulley. I then welded the fat washer onto the pulley. When refitting, no key used, but as the bolt is done up FT, the tube gets squashed over the end of the crankshaft and ends up jamming the pulley and crankshaft together.

It would be an absolute bugger to get off, but should last until the next cam belt change.

Mind you...there was nothing left of the keyway in either the pulley or the crankshaft, and a good mm clearence between the two in places. It wasn't uniformly worn fortunately.

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Thanks for that!! After some thinking, I have bought a new damper and put it all together with plenty of threadlock on the crankshaft nut. So far all seems to be ok.

Being as only about 5mm of the key fits into the slot anyway, I recon that the tight nut should hold it all together.

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keep a damn good eye on it for a while. chemical metal & threadlock didnt work on mine. fell apart again in 300miles.

i took the pulley off the crank damper & drilled through the damper & the crank. fitted a 4mm steel pin thats retained on the inside by the crankbolt & on the outside by the pulley.

ive been told its a bad idea to drill the crank but its survived since xmas.

if i was you i WOULD take the belt cover etc off & check it. there is a second key for the crank pulley for the cambelt. mine had been damaged too so i had to replace that key as well.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I had the same problem on my Disco 200 lump. I went to do the cambelt after I got it and found the same thing as you lot. I couldn't be bothered to bodge it, so purchased a new crank from Bearmach in M/stone. I then canged everything that came into contact with the crank. Bill came to about 450 quid I think. I now have the piece of mind that the bottom end of the motor is sound. A bit extreme but peace of mind has a price

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I've done this 'glueing' job on two occasions - a Sherpa 2.5 N/A engine that was in catflap (lasted a couple of years until I took it apart myself), and to a Pajero, which is still ok after about 6-months. I used twin pack epoxy on both occasions.


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