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Andy

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About Andy

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    Doncaster
  1. Tracked it down, it seems that this engine has been converted to take the P6 short nose pump. That means £70 for a pump rather than £35 - blast!
  2. The pump looks normal, I wouldn't say it's modded at all. Who can I ask with the engine number though? I obviously won't buy a pump from LR & the couple of parts places I've tried so far claim the engine number is no help?
  3. Nope, checked that for piccies before. Tried Craddocks too but they have no pics at all! I ordered a STC1611 as people on other forums said it was probably right, turns out it's not. No fault of theirs but as all the parts places claim to need to know the age of the RR the lump is from I can't just order the right one.
  4. I need some help identifying the V8 in my ltwt. I've got the engine number (but not to hand) showing it's a D suffix & according to Rimmers it's a 1972-85 carbed Range Rover V8 8.25:1 CR. Now my problem is I'd have thought that meant the water pump (which is leaking like a sieve) would be a STC1611 as it's a non viscious fan mount. However it's not as there is a an extra small water pipe entering from the top that is currently plumbed as the return from the heater. I've got a couple of poor pics of the pump in situ, if anyone can identify it so I can order a replacement I'd be really greatful. I've just remembered that cast into the pump is the code P8374 if that means anything?
  5. Where's the fun in that? Actually I will be fitting some hose from the outlets in the bottom & ducting that to the footwells.
  6. I've now tested it & it's not bad. Pumps out warm (not hot) air in the right directions. Trouble is with half the door seals missing, the doors not square in the holes, the roof shrunk a bit so it doesn't seal behind the doortops etc there is rather a lot of places for cold drafts to get in. Having said that, around town it actually got a touch too warm this evening within about 5mins of coming off the motorway so I'm happy with the result.
  7. Sure looks much easier to spilt the t'box out of the truck. I've just got mine back together a week ago doing in place as the selector shafts had seized. It's an utter sod to get it all back as there isn't room to remove the housing & I was working blind with my hand inside it to line it all up. I did swear lots & needed help to get it sorted. Works now though
  8. I've just fitted a Robin Reliant heater on the bulkhead between the seats on my S3 Ltwt. The plumbing goes under the floor & just appears where it needs to reach the matrix. I drilled a load of holes in the bulkhead as an air intake for the heater & hammered it out into a curve to clear the fan. Then I just needed a duct to keep the warm air in the cab as shown here http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=73098 I've not tried it yet though, it seems to pump out warmth when parked so I'm hopeful.
  9. Robin Reliant, was only £28 delivered off ebay.
  10. Well it gets hot, not sure how great the airflow is as I only sealed the heater box to the bulkhead today. What you can't see behind it is a load of holes drilled to make an air intake behind the fan & then I hammered that outwards to clear the fan as it's about 1/2" proud of the box. The heater is from a Robin Reliant, it seemed a plan as it's a Smiths heater that's smaller than the LR one. I couldn't fit the normal heater as the V8 conversion makes the tunnel slightly larger. That's an idea I'm thinking of anyway. The cubby box had to come out to let the heater fit so the middle seat is now a dog bed & I don't want her burning herself. I'll need to shield the lower pipe too as that drops straight through the floor because I didn't have enough hose to run it up over the bulkhead with the other one. Cheers for the compliment, I'm finally managing to make things that fit & work. It's a huge improvement from my first attempts.
  11. I had today off work & decided to do some CAD* with BFCP** processing in order to aerodynamically redesign the upper output of my heater unit. The intended outcome was to cause the air wasted heating the rear roof to be redirected into the cab to warm myself & any passengers. Here is the early prototype test fitted The parts of the prototype laid out on the fabrication bench Recreated with a few changes in 1mm Ali sheet High precision assembly of the ducting unit once complete & ready for fitting And finally, the unit in position ready for use *Cardboard Aided Design **Back Of Cereal Packet
  12. I've just found this thread & will now spend most of the day just going *wibble*
  13. Andy

    S3 Transferbox

    I've got the cover off the front & the shafts seem to do what pictures I've found show when selecting each thing. BUT the only way to get low range selectable is to pull out the 4WD pin. With it out the hi/lo lever moves dead easy between ranges but the box is always in 4WD. Get the pin back in & it's either stuck in neutral or I'm back how I started with just 2WD hi & neutral. I've tapped things softly with lots of WD40 to see if anything would pop free but it's made no difference. Looks like I will have to strip the whole damn thing apart to sort it Bah! that's my weekend wasted!
  14. Andy

    S3 Transferbox

    Well it definately seems that the 4wd part of the box is the problem. Having freed up the external linkages I've found that the yellow knob now does as it should but the truck says in 2WD. With the truck parked, front prop removed for working space, hi range selected & the yellow knob down I can spin the front output flange by hand with almost no resistance. I suspect that it not being able to select 4WD would also block the selection of low? Looks like I'll be dropping the 4WD nose off the T'box next to try & see why it doesn't work. It doesn't help that with the V8 conversion it's all a bit cramped to the home made tunnel which I'll have to drill rivets out to remove & see what's going on.
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