EdF Posted October 27, 2007 Share Posted October 27, 2007 Just started to spray two pack on two panels on my 90 - Blenheim Metallic. After long prep work, thinking at first I could do it with aerosols (which poured paint over my hands and were returned...) I decided to buy two pack. I've sprayed a Landy before with an 'ordinary' paint (Super Traffic) and did okay, but this is spattering slightly, even though I'm putting on the thinnest of coats and it's giving a poor finish. Anyone any ideas? And yes, I'm using an air-fed facemask and I have a 17 cu/ft/min compressor with a HVLP spraygun. Is metallic difficult to apply DIY? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripley Posted October 27, 2007 Share Posted October 27, 2007 Just started to spray two pack on two panels on my 90 - Blenheim Metallic. After long prep work, thinking at first I could do it with aerosols (which poured paint over my hands and were returned...) I decided to buy two pack. I've sprayed a Landy before with an 'ordinary' paint (Super Traffic) and did okay, but this is spattering slightly, even though I'm putting on the thinnest of coats and it's giving a poor finish. Anyone any ideas? And yes, I'm using an air-fed facemask and I have a 17 cu/ft/min compressor with a HVLP spraygun. Is metallic difficult to apply DIY? Yes very if conditions & equipment isnt right, are you using single layer metallic or basecoat & laquer?? Even after painting for 20yrs a silver single layer metallic is a nitemare if u are using basecoat, you should be trying to achieve an even layer of base that will look matt when tacking off, if the metallic is standing up, let the base dry, nib with 1200 then reapply regards graham Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paintman Posted October 27, 2007 Share Posted October 27, 2007 You will find the answer to many problems in the 'Paint Defects' section of http://corporateportal.ppg.com/refinish/maxmeyer/england Did you get the Tech Data sheets from your paint supplier? Tells you everything you need to know about the paint you are using including air pressure, thinning, gun fluid tip size etc. Silver can be an absolute pig. I do this professionally (SMART repair, I no longer get involved with resprays) and whilst I applaud your wish to do it yourself I would suggest you get the painting done professionally. it will sav you a lot of frustration & wasted materials. Metallics & pearls are normally applied as a base coat (the colour) with a clear lacquer over the top which is what gives you the shine, so there are twice as many chances of it going wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonost24 Posted October 28, 2007 Share Posted October 28, 2007 Two-pack!! isn't he a rapper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdF Posted October 28, 2007 Author Share Posted October 28, 2007 Thanks guys, it's a base and lacquer.. It has gone off to an acceptable (though not perfect) finish, which surprised me.. The supplier is a big local hardware/tool store and about the only place in my area which sells auto paint. Didn't get any info with the paint at all.. Knew about the lethal side effects, though, being an ex-safety officer. I was only told the mixing proportions for the paint thinner and the hardener for the lacquer.. It worries me that with their lax attitude someone would have a go using it with only a dust mask. Any thoughts about applying the lacquer? Just about to do it .. Another little query, the Warn winch has got a bit corroded and I'm about to take it off and spruce it up. Is there any bulletproof paint I can get for that and the fairlead? Obviously they are quite small items. I don't rate Hammerite! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdF Posted October 28, 2007 Author Share Posted October 28, 2007 Just a little add-on.. The lacquer is Tetrosyl Clearcoat and after a little searching, found a link to the data sheets, in case anyone else is contemplating using this stuff. http://www.tetrosyl.com/index.cfm?page=74 Jonost, if I'm a rapper (whatever that is) what are you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paintman Posted October 28, 2007 Share Posted October 28, 2007 And if you have a look in the 'refinishing' header it will link you via Aqua-T to the 'Product information sheet' which tells you what you need to know about application of that lacquer (& their other materials) Did you ask the suppler for the sheets? FWIW I use Max Meyer 2k lacquer, don't thin, use 2:1 ratio lacquer to hardener & apply as 2 full coats (Sata Minijet gravity feed SMART repair gun 1.0 fluid tip & 25psi at the gun) with 10 mins flash-off between the coats followed by Infra red bake for 25 mins, cool for 10 mins then de-nib as necessary, compound & polish. The defects link I posted will show you most common mistakes, how to avoid them & how to put them right! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdF Posted October 28, 2007 Author Share Posted October 28, 2007 Thanks for all the info. I discovered that my 17 cu/ft/min compressor isn't man enough to cope with the spraygun and the mask. It was the biggest compressor I could find at the time which would work from a domestic supply (16 amp circuit, not from a 13amp plug) but until now I didn't need the air fed mask. That meant it was very difficult to maintain a good spray pattern as the pressure was waning away, but I got the lacquer on with no runs. I was doing 90 rear side panels as a previous owner had installed rear side windows and water had got behind the seal and the paint and 'white rust' was getting into the metal. Luckily there isn't much of a panel to paint. Unfortunately they aren't Landy pattern windows but the type with the rubber seal and the locking bead in the centre. I suppose I'm going to have to use silicone to seal them this time, which will be messy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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