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About paintman

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  1. I've got one of the first of the Leatherman tools - subsequently called the PST - & carry & use it on a daily basis. I bought it at Bisley IIRC in the mid-80s. Now in its third pouch as the first two wore out. The screwdriver bits aren't slot in on this so it's a case of using a bit of sense as to what you try & do. I gave each of my sons a Leatherman Wave as one of their 21st presents. I suggest you get a tool that has the replaceable screwdriver bits & replaceable wire cutter blades would also be a good idea. Bear in mind the bigger the tool the heavier i
  2. Another vote for speedisleeve. Did mine (RRC) last year & used the blue coloured seal & to date not a drop. 31.75mm sleeve & you will need a suitable sized bit of tube to tap it into place. Dieseldog did a good writeup which is what I followed but photobucket have stolen the photos.
  3. Use an adhesive designed for high temperatures, not a general purpose type. Woolies or Martrim do them.
  4. I can recommend making up the gearbox to trolley jack mounting shown in the LR manuals. Makes balancing for removal/replacement much easier. Also a couple of lengths of threaded rod to screw into the rear of the block in lieu of the bellhousing to block bolts. Offer the box up to these & use them to slide them together. Helps alignment & reduces risk of slipping.
  5. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/how-do-i-disconnect-the-hi-lo-actuator-on-a-defender-200tdi-lt230.304097/ Post #5 shows the housing off & the view inside it. You can see the hole where the grub screw should be. They need to be put in with plenty of threadlock.
  6. Bit late to the party but I have the 10 ton one & that's done the same. Also worth drilling the bottom plate of the jack & the base it sits on & fitting a couple of bolts to hold them together so it can't spit the jack out.
  7. +4 for painting the interior white.
  8. How have you established that the rad isn't blocked/partially blocked internally? Are the temp gauge & the sender unit compatible? Consider fitting a proper & accurate analogue temp gauge.
  9. http://www.range-rover-classic.com/Home/land-rover-brochures/range-rover-1970-s#TOC-1973-Range-Rover-Model-Year---VIN-Suffix-B---Released:-January-1973
  10. With No1 at TDC - both valves closed on compression stroke - the rotor arm should be pointing at the position the lead that goes to No1 plug occupies in the dizzy cap. All other leads are positioned relative to that. If a lead is out of position then it may start & run but it will be rough - been there done that. As it runs, have you tried removing each lead in turn to see if it makes any difference - be careful & use something well insulated to avoid shock. If a lead removal makes no difference then it could be lead or plug. To confirm move the plug to a firing cylinder &
  11. OK. Leave the leads as they are. If when you checked the rotor arm points at your No1 when it's on firing stroke at TDC & the rest number in the correct firing order I don't THINK that will be an issue. Don't know on the 1/2 inch vertical movement. Is that the whole shaft moving up? I do know the reluctor should engage with a circular plastic gizmo on the shaft underneath it that determines its position on the shaft. Pulling the shaft up is likely to disengage the advance/retard - I did this some years ago before i knew about holding the reluctor down. I can't remember how high the sh
  12. You'll find ignition system tests & checks incl the amplifier in the RR manual. I believe yours will be on RAVE (a CD)which I think can be downloaded free or bought on ebay etc. I'd suggest you get one as it will make life easier. Unless you're totally happy with it I would be inclined to reset the timing just to eliminate it as a source of issues. I remove nearside (UK) rocker cover & No1 plug, then with a long rod in No1 turn engine until No1 piston at tdc. Check rotor position. If you do remove the dizzy be aware that the drive gears are skewed so the rotor arm will move as you
  13. Has it always run rough or just started? Does it run badly on both LPG & petrol? The lead diagram you followed might be wrong or you may have misinterpreted it. Possibly the dizzy has been removed & refitted incorrectly (easy to do) & the leads have been moved. If only 1 tooth out it can pop & fart (guess how I know!). Best way to check is to set No 1 at TDC (rod down plughole) with both valves closed & see where the rotor arm is pointing. Have you removed & replaced the rotor arm? If you turn the rotor arm gently with your fingers & release it does i
  14. I just use one of the old 500ml gearoil bottles, the type that came with a pipe with a hook on the end that fits in the fill hole & a straight pipe that fits on the inside of the bottle cap & goes to the bottom of the bottle so squeezing the bottle pushes the oil out form the bottom. OK so I have to refill it a few times - which I do in an old washing up bowl so any drips are contained - but it works & cost nothing :)
  15. Something of a resurrection but I've just sorted out the reversing light switch on my '86 RRC ZF auto. The green wire is the reverse lights live feed from fuse 13 & the reversing light switch connects it to the green/brown wire which goes to the reversing lights. The other two wires are the start inhibit.
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