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paintman

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About paintman

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    Leicestershire

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  1. paintman

    ZF auto box inhibitor switch

    Something of a resurrection but I've just sorted out the reversing light switch on my '86 RRC ZF auto. The green wire is the reverse lights live feed from fuse 13 & the reversing light switch connects it to the green/brown wire which goes to the reversing lights. The other two wires are the start inhibit.
  2. paintman

    RRC engine and box removal

    If you want to take the gear & transfer box off from underneath look in the RRC factory manuals & make up the bracket. Together they are big, heavy & unbalanced. (They're heavy & awkward separately so if you just want to remove a transfer box I'd suggest also making the special tool as it makes it a doddle) You can leave the TC on the gearbox, you just need to undo the 4 bolts that hold it to the drive plate - accessed by removing the cover plate at the bottom front face of the gearbox & working through the circular holes you can see. The TC is pushed onto the gearbox input shaft & will quite happily slide off & fall on the floor whilst you are removing the gearbox. The manuals show putting it back on with the box horizontal. Whilst it works, it's an utter PITA as you are trying to get several sets of splines to line up & it's b*&&^% heavy! I suggest you remove the circular plate at the bottom of the bell housing & make up a 'T' shaped piece of steel with the long part of the T long enough to press on the front face of the TC & holes in the crosspiece of the T suitable to use a couple of the bolts that were in the circular plate. 2mm steel as thinner may well bend & the TC will then fall on the floor....... If the TC does come off then it must be seated correctly on the gearbox as measured from a straightedge laid across the bellhousing mouth down to the front of any of the 4 bosses on the TC. If not, it may all bolt back together but you will split the box pump. No pump=no pressure=no drive & you get to take it all off again to fit a new pump. ETA If you leave the box in situ & just remove the engine I'd also suggest the T tool to ensure the TC doesn't fall off!
  3. paintman

    Strange question about wiper motor Range Rover Classic

    This thread dates from 2008 & it looks like will's last visit was in July 2013 so I suspect a reply is unlikely. If fuses are blowing instantly you almost certainly have a short to earth. Finding it will be the fun. I believe installing a headlight bulb in place of the fuse - bit of soldering to connect some wires & appropriate connectors to the bulb to fit the fuse holder - will enable you to disconnect various things round the circuit. A wiggle test of the wires might help . When/if the bulb goes out you've found the contact to earth that shouldn't be there.
  4. paintman

    4HP24 Gearbox Failure

    Don't know if this will work for you but I've done a few bits & pieces to the internals of mine & used this UK company for the parts. They were very quick on delivery & very good on prices too. I replaced the steel sealing rings on the input shaft with the Teflon ones which would have cost a fortune from ebay (USA only) but were pennies from them. Has very good exploded diagrams of the boxes. https://jpat.co.uk/zf.html https://jpat.co.uk/uploads/1/0/3/5/103549764/89__zf_1_4hp22-24.pdf This might be of interest: http://bmwe32.masscom.net/moswald/zf4hp22_rebuild/zf4hp22_rebuild.html http://www.cowdery.org.uk/zf.php
  5. paintman

    what residue is this

    That looks more like someone's cracked an egg into it to try & hide a leak!
  6. paintman

    4HP24 Gearbox Failure

    Apologies for not getting back sooner. Mine is the RRC which has the 4HP22 & the diagram for that is in the factory workshop manual. I've had a look & all I can find for the P38 is reference to a LR Special Tool LRT-99-007 with some pics in the online manual but no dimensional drawing. http://www.landroverweb.com/Pdf-files/Manuals/Workshop-Manual-P38-Range-Rover.pdf Page 651
  7. paintman

    4HP24 Gearbox Failure

    If you do remove the gearbox be aware that the torque converter is only pushed onto the input shaft & will happily fall off if not locked into position by some external means. I'd suggest making a 'T' shaped piece of metal with the arms of the 'T' drilled to match up with two of the small bolts that hold the small round cover onto the bottom of the bellhousing & the shaft of the 'T' bent so it goes up inside the bellhousing & presses against the torque converter. Use a piece of 3mm plus steel as the weight of the torque converter will bend thin sheet & then it falls off. (Guess how I know - albeit a 4HP22) When refitting, the tc MUST be on the gearbox and seated to the appropriate depth which is measured from a straightedge across the bellhousing mouth to the front of the 4 bosses on its front. If not it will fit but will break the pump & you get to take it all off again. Distances given on Ashcroft's site if you don't have the LR manual. Although the manuals show it being fitted with the box horizontal it's MUCH easier to seat if the gearbox is vertical. Once seated use your 'T' tool to keep it in place. I also recommend making up the LR jack to gearbox mounting plate as these are big heavy unbalanced units.
  8. paintman

    Any Colour gurus here?

    Also works with one that does eyematching & TBH I've found a good eyematcher better than the scanner, I have quite a lot of eyematches done - mostly whites & yellowy/browns, the latter being the various shades of Bailey caravans. As I'm repairing in the middle of panels the match has to be exact. I use Sayers of Northampton & an exact match 1/2 litre - their smallest quantity - in Lesonal SB basecoat costs me around £70 incl matching charge. They formulate the match so when I need to reorder it comes out the same but costs less as there is no matching charge. I can also recommend Supatune at Castle Donington. Their mixer - Squib - has been doing it since the early 70s. Turnaround time for both is 3 to 5 days depending how busy they are & the bigger the bit to be matched you give them the better.
  9. paintman

    For what vehicle is this handbrake ?

    Pic of the genuine article: https://www.firstfour.co.uk/x-eng-disc-handbrake-conversion-for-series-1-2-and-3.html Incl fitting instructions: https://www.firstfour.co.uk/media/wysiwyg/pdf/X_Eng_X-Brake_Series_Instructions.pdf
  10. paintman

    Any Colour gurus here?

    The problem with vehicle codes is that there are usually a number of different shades. When a car maker comes up with a new colour a batch of paint is ordered. This is used until it's all gone. If the colour is popular then a new batch will be ordered. This will vary slightly from the original - much the same as the reason why you need to buy wallpaper with the same batch number on each roll. The longer a colour is used the more variations you are going to find. Knowing when yours was produced will be no help - you need to compare it to the colour swatches which a factor that does paint should have to pick the best match. As already said, trying to do it from a computer screen is a non-starter.
  11. paintman

    Locking Wheel Nut stuck!!

    Tyre fitters & get them to use their locking wheel nut remover.
  12. paintman

    Steering adjustment - opinions please

    Am I correct in thinking this is a Disco 1? So much the same set up as the RRC with no split or bolt, just a big washer & nut to hold the drop arm on the steering box output shaft & (sometimes!) needs dynamite to get it off the box? Park the vehicle with wheels pointing straight ahead. Remove the drop arm from the steering box and the drag link (the one that goes from the drop arm to the nearside wheel) Centre the steering box - this is important! Refit the drop arm in the straight ahead position aligning the master spline on the drop arm with the appropriate one on the box output shaft - you have a choice of 4 at 90 degrees to each other. Better idea of them here, they're the wide ones: www.tapatalk.com/groups/landytown/resealing-a-power-steering-box-t10507.html You might need to adjust the length of the drag link. If the steering wheel is now on the tiddle remove & refit - don't forget to slacken off but leave the centre nut on the shaft when pulling the steering wheel so it doesn't suddenly come off & smack you in the face! ETA. For some reason the link only works if I cut & paste & open in a new window.
  13. paintman

    P38 gearbox issue , slipping in drive .

    Most likely failed Clutch Pack 'A'. Common issue with the ZF4HP22 boxes. This might be of interest: http://bmwe32.masscom.net/moswald/zf4hp22_rebuild/zf4hp22_rebuild.html http://www.cowdery.org.uk/zf.php Ashcroft advise replacement reconditioned box. "My Autobox is now only able to select reverse. Why? Your A clutch (forward drive) has failed and you will require a replacement autobox."
  14. In the main vehicle manufacturers don't make their own parts. They will buy in from one or other of the specialist manufacturers to spec. They may change the supplier from time to time & parts may be varied to deal with identified problems - I last had this with a Peugeot head gasket. The genuine had changed from composite to a MLS but the others were still composite. The MLS addressed a particular oil leak issue. The parts manufacturers will also sell the parts to other resellers & will sell them under their own labelling as well. Some high volume parts will be copied by other parts manufacturers & these 'pattern' parts may not be of the same quality or dimensions as the original. Couple of examples. Valeo are a major supplier of clutch components to car manufacturers. A genuine Renault dealer supplied clutch will come in a nice box with Renault logos plastered all over it. When you open the box you will find 'Valeo' marking on the components. You can buy the same Valeo clutch cheaper from motor factors, but it won't come in a box with Renault logos. I worked in a factors in the 70s & amongst the stuff we sold were panels. We sold Mini wings & your choice was genuine BL or an alternative make. The alternative was half the price & was made on press tools the BL had chucked out as worn out of tolerance. The genuine fitted perfectly & the alt fitted where it touched & needed time spent adjusting. I will avoid cheapie parts & for certain items which are safety critical and/or require a lot of work to replace will only buy from a franchised dealer.
  15. paintman

    What is the black mastic LR use?

    Do a Google search for 'butyl sealant strip'. Arbo will come up as will many others. Comes in various sizes. I use the round strip for sealing weather shield plastic sheets door frames. Sticks like the proverbial but you can get things apart if necessary - although as said above it's messy!
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