Jump to content


Settled In
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by paintman

  1. I've got one of the first of the Leatherman tools - subsequently called the PST - & carry & use it on a daily basis. I bought it at Bisley IIRC in the mid-80s. Now in its third pouch as the first two wore out. The screwdriver bits aren't slot in on this so it's a case of using a bit of sense as to what you try & do. I gave each of my sons a Leatherman Wave as one of their 21st presents. I suggest you get a tool that has the replaceable screwdriver bits & replaceable wire cutter blades would also be a good idea. Bear in mind the bigger the tool the heavier it's going to be on your belt & if it has locking blades bear in mind UK law so be careful where you carry one.
  2. Another vote for speedisleeve. Did mine (RRC) last year & used the blue coloured seal & to date not a drop. 31.75mm sleeve & you will need a suitable sized bit of tube to tap it into place. Dieseldog did a good writeup which is what I followed but photobucket have stolen the photos.
  3. Use an adhesive designed for high temperatures, not a general purpose type. Woolies or Martrim do them.
  4. I can recommend making up the gearbox to trolley jack mounting shown in the LR manuals. Makes balancing for removal/replacement much easier. Also a couple of lengths of threaded rod to screw into the rear of the block in lieu of the bellhousing to block bolts. Offer the box up to these & use them to slide them together. Helps alignment & reduces risk of slipping.
  5. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/how-do-i-disconnect-the-hi-lo-actuator-on-a-defender-200tdi-lt230.304097/ Post #5 shows the housing off & the view inside it. You can see the hole where the grub screw should be. They need to be put in with plenty of threadlock.
  6. Bit late to the party but I have the 10 ton one & that's done the same. Also worth drilling the bottom plate of the jack & the base it sits on & fitting a couple of bolts to hold them together so it can't spit the jack out.
  7. +4 for painting the interior white.
  8. How have you established that the rad isn't blocked/partially blocked internally? Are the temp gauge & the sender unit compatible? Consider fitting a proper & accurate analogue temp gauge.
  9. http://www.range-rover-classic.com/Home/land-rover-brochures/range-rover-1970-s#TOC-1973-Range-Rover-Model-Year---VIN-Suffix-B---Released:-January-1973
  10. With No1 at TDC - both valves closed on compression stroke - the rotor arm should be pointing at the position the lead that goes to No1 plug occupies in the dizzy cap. All other leads are positioned relative to that. If a lead is out of position then it may start & run but it will be rough - been there done that. As it runs, have you tried removing each lead in turn to see if it makes any difference - be careful & use something well insulated to avoid shock. If a lead removal makes no difference then it could be lead or plug. To confirm move the plug to a firing cylinder & see if the problem moves with the plug. Then do the same with the lead. On mine - 1986 3.5EFi - as viewed from the front of the car No1 lead position is at approx 4 o'clock same as the line drawing in your earlier post. Looked at from above and from the front of the car on mine & the later dizzys the vacuum unit is to the 9/10 o'clock There are two clips that hold the dizzy cap on. One is towards the 12 o'clock. The other is immediately to the 6 o'clock of No1 & between the leads to No1 and No8. Have you fitted a good rotor arm & if so what has happened? You need a manual as you need to work through the electrical checks.
  11. OK. Leave the leads as they are. If when you checked the rotor arm points at your No1 when it's on firing stroke at TDC & the rest number in the correct firing order I don't THINK that will be an issue. Don't know on the 1/2 inch vertical movement. Is that the whole shaft moving up? I do know the reluctor should engage with a circular plastic gizmo on the shaft underneath it that determines its position on the shaft. Pulling the shaft up is likely to disengage the advance/retard - I did this some years ago before i knew about holding the reluctor down. I can't remember how high the shaft came up as it's a long time ago but I do know I had to remove the baseplate to reconnect the springs & weights & that it all went back together OK. It should NOT be doing what you see in this clip: https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=range+rover+classic+distributor+strip&view=detail&mid=B6BB61529EEBE6B2A0FFB6BB61529EEBE6B2A0FF&FORM=VIRE he's disengaged the advance/retard & the rotor arm doesn't return when released. As I said earlier. I don't seem to be able to find a strip & rebuild for the 35DLM8 distributor. ETA been looking for this! He had the advance/retard disconnected problem - not the over-fuelling he thought. If you try to go to page 2 & it just says 'Loading' but nothing happens just use your browsers 'refresh' symbol & it should do the trick.
  12. You'll find ignition system tests & checks incl the amplifier in the RR manual. I believe yours will be on RAVE (a CD)which I think can be downloaded free or bought on ebay etc. I'd suggest you get one as it will make life easier. Unless you're totally happy with it I would be inclined to reset the timing just to eliminate it as a source of issues. I remove nearside (UK) rocker cover & No1 plug, then with a long rod in No1 turn engine until No1 piston at tdc. Check rotor position. If you do remove the dizzy be aware that the drive gears are skewed so the rotor arm will move as you pull the dizzy. As yours is running - albeit roughly - you might want to mark pre-removal position of dizzy body to block & the pre & post removal position of the dizzy arm relative to the body of the dizzy. I use white paint applied with a paper clip or bit of mig wire. Means you can put it all back in the same position. Check the new rotor arm turns & goes back when released. I should have mentioned that you need to press down on the reluctor - the 8-pointed star thing under it - as you pull the arm off or you can disengage the auto advance/retard in the lower cup of the dizzy. If necessary with a stuck rotor arm breaking it off in chunks is sometimes the best solution. If you have dislocated it you don't need to remove the dizzy but be sure to pack rags around it to stop any bits falling onto the engine & disappearing in the various nooks & crannies. The 3.5EFi used the amp on the inner wing under the coil. The later ones had the amp on the side of the coil. Due to heat issues damaging it RR eventually came up with a remote kit to mount it on the wing! https://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/classic/electrical/ignitionmod.html If yours has had a bodge then this needs checking & possibly the amp replacing as mentioned earlier (tests in the manual) but I prefer to check the mechanicals are correct first. Your lead order & layout pic looks fine.
  13. Has it always run rough or just started? Does it run badly on both LPG & petrol? The lead diagram you followed might be wrong or you may have misinterpreted it. Possibly the dizzy has been removed & refitted incorrectly (easy to do) & the leads have been moved. If only 1 tooth out it can pop & fart (guess how I know!). Best way to check is to set No 1 at TDC (rod down plughole) with both valves closed & see where the rotor arm is pointing. Have you removed & replaced the rotor arm? If you turn the rotor arm gently with your fingers & release it does it go back to its original position or stay where you moved it to? Is the rotor arm of the type with the metal strip riveted to the plastic (bad) or with it moulded into the plastic? Worth trying to start it in the dark to see if you have an electric firework display on any of the HT electrics as this can indicate tracking. IIRC the shield comes in an overhaul kit RTC5971. Check that you have no major airleaks on the intake side. I had the ram housing to extra airvalve hose split on mine (flapper EFi) & it just didn't want to know on petrol, as in no power as the AFM couldn't see the extra air so the mix was very very weak but was fine on LPG. ETA Mine's on LPG - manually switched so I decide when it runs on which - & I use it as a diagnostic. If it misfires on LPG but fine on petrol it's an ignition issue - to date that's been 2 duff plugs. Fine on LPG but rough (or not at all) on petrol then a fuelling issue - to date 2 duff 4CU ECUs & a failing wiring connection to the fuel pump. Rough/misfire on both then it's ignition & that was a pattern dizzy cap that was all I could get at the time. Symptom was a miss at speed/under load towing on both fuels, worse in wet weather. Fitting a proper cap sorted it. There were significant internal structure differences between the 2 caps.
  14. I just use one of the old 500ml gearoil bottles, the type that came with a pipe with a hook on the end that fits in the fill hole & a straight pipe that fits on the inside of the bottle cap & goes to the bottom of the bottle so squeezing the bottle pushes the oil out form the bottom. OK so I have to refill it a few times - which I do in an old washing up bowl so any drips are contained - but it works & cost nothing :)
  15. Something of a resurrection but I've just sorted out the reversing light switch on my '86 RRC ZF auto. The green wire is the reverse lights live feed from fuse 13 & the reversing light switch connects it to the green/brown wire which goes to the reversing lights. The other two wires are the start inhibit.
  16. If you want to take the gear & transfer box off from underneath look in the RRC factory manuals & make up the bracket. Together they are big, heavy & unbalanced. (They're heavy & awkward separately so if you just want to remove a transfer box I'd suggest also making the special tool as it makes it a doddle) You can leave the TC on the gearbox, you just need to undo the 4 bolts that hold it to the drive plate - accessed by removing the cover plate at the bottom front face of the gearbox & working through the circular holes you can see. The TC is pushed onto the gearbox input shaft & will quite happily slide off & fall on the floor whilst you are removing the gearbox. The manuals show putting it back on with the box horizontal. Whilst it works, it's an utter PITA as you are trying to get several sets of splines to line up & it's b*&&^% heavy! I suggest you remove the circular plate at the bottom of the bell housing & make up a 'T' shaped piece of steel with the long part of the T long enough to press on the front face of the TC & holes in the crosspiece of the T suitable to use a couple of the bolts that were in the circular plate. 2mm steel as thinner may well bend & the TC will then fall on the floor....... If the TC does come off then it must be seated correctly on the gearbox as measured from a straightedge laid across the bellhousing mouth down to the front of any of the 4 bosses on the TC. If not, it may all bolt back together but you will split the box pump. No pump=no pressure=no drive & you get to take it all off again to fit a new pump. ETA If you leave the box in situ & just remove the engine I'd also suggest the T tool to ensure the TC doesn't fall off!
  17. This thread dates from 2008 & it looks like will's last visit was in July 2013 so I suspect a reply is unlikely. If fuses are blowing instantly you almost certainly have a short to earth. Finding it will be the fun. I believe installing a headlight bulb in place of the fuse - bit of soldering to connect some wires & appropriate connectors to the bulb to fit the fuse holder - will enable you to disconnect various things round the circuit. A wiggle test of the wires might help . When/if the bulb goes out you've found the contact to earth that shouldn't be there.
  18. Don't know if this will work for you but I've done a few bits & pieces to the internals of mine & used this UK company for the parts. They were very quick on delivery & very good on prices too. I replaced the steel sealing rings on the input shaft with the Teflon ones which would have cost a fortune from ebay (USA only) but were pennies from them. Has very good exploded diagrams of the boxes. https://jpat.co.uk/zf.html https://jpat.co.uk/uploads/1/0/3/5/103549764/89__zf_1_4hp22-24.pdf This might be of interest: http://bmwe32.masscom.net/moswald/zf4hp22_rebuild/zf4hp22_rebuild.html http://www.cowdery.org.uk/zf.php
  19. That looks more like someone's cracked an egg into it to try & hide a leak!
  20. Apologies for not getting back sooner. Mine is the RRC which has the 4HP22 & the diagram for that is in the factory workshop manual. I've had a look & all I can find for the P38 is reference to a LR Special Tool LRT-99-007 with some pics in the online manual but no dimensional drawing. http://www.landroverweb.com/Pdf-files/Manuals/Workshop-Manual-P38-Range-Rover.pdf Page 651
  21. If you do remove the gearbox be aware that the torque converter is only pushed onto the input shaft & will happily fall off if not locked into position by some external means. I'd suggest making a 'T' shaped piece of metal with the arms of the 'T' drilled to match up with two of the small bolts that hold the small round cover onto the bottom of the bellhousing & the shaft of the 'T' bent so it goes up inside the bellhousing & presses against the torque converter. Use a piece of 3mm plus steel as the weight of the torque converter will bend thin sheet & then it falls off. (Guess how I know - albeit a 4HP22) When refitting, the tc MUST be on the gearbox and seated to the appropriate depth which is measured from a straightedge across the bellhousing mouth to the front of the 4 bosses on its front. If not it will fit but will break the pump & you get to take it all off again. Distances given on Ashcroft's site if you don't have the LR manual. Although the manuals show it being fitted with the box horizontal it's MUCH easier to seat if the gearbox is vertical. Once seated use your 'T' tool to keep it in place. I also recommend making up the LR jack to gearbox mounting plate as these are big heavy unbalanced units.
  22. Also works with one that does eyematching & TBH I've found a good eyematcher better than the scanner, I have quite a lot of eyematches done - mostly whites & yellowy/browns, the latter being the various shades of Bailey caravans. As I'm repairing in the middle of panels the match has to be exact. I use Sayers of Northampton & an exact match 1/2 litre - their smallest quantity - in Lesonal SB basecoat costs me around £70 incl matching charge. They formulate the match so when I need to reorder it comes out the same but costs less as there is no matching charge. I can also recommend Supatune at Castle Donington. Their mixer - Squib - has been doing it since the early 70s. Turnaround time for both is 3 to 5 days depending how busy they are & the bigger the bit to be matched you give them the better.
  23. Pic of the genuine article: https://www.firstfour.co.uk/x-eng-disc-handbrake-conversion-for-series-1-2-and-3.html Incl fitting instructions: https://www.firstfour.co.uk/media/wysiwyg/pdf/X_Eng_X-Brake_Series_Instructions.pdf
  24. The problem with vehicle codes is that there are usually a number of different shades. When a car maker comes up with a new colour a batch of paint is ordered. This is used until it's all gone. If the colour is popular then a new batch will be ordered. This will vary slightly from the original - much the same as the reason why you need to buy wallpaper with the same batch number on each roll. The longer a colour is used the more variations you are going to find. Knowing when yours was produced will be no help - you need to compare it to the colour swatches which a factor that does paint should have to pick the best match. As already said, trying to do it from a computer screen is a non-starter.
  25. Tyre fitters & get them to use their locking wheel nut remover.
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy