Derek Martin Posted November 7, 2007 Share Posted November 7, 2007 I am about to replace the ECU on my Disco 1 300tdi auto. Does anybody know if this a simple plug in the replacement job, or do I need anything doing to the ecu i.e. programming the alarm/immobiliser, etc. Regards Derek. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Attryde Posted November 7, 2007 Share Posted November 7, 2007 As far as I know the alarm/immobiliser is a completely seperate unit to the engine ECU although it does interact with it I don't think that you will have a problem. I still had all the alarm/immobiliser functions (apart from the fuel shutoff) after I removed my ECU. Don't take this as gospel however it is just my experience. HTH Pete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen337 Posted November 8, 2007 Share Posted November 8, 2007 Where are you getting the replacement ECU from? I think I have a problem with mine and Im looking for a replacement. The only place I have found on the Internet (so far) that will do a test / replacement service is http://www.bsecorp.com/products.php I still have this http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=17762 problem. Because I suspect the ECU Im slow at putting my hand in my pocket cautious. Ta Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sotal Posted November 8, 2007 Share Posted November 8, 2007 Stephen - Did you try what I suggested at the end? Take the solenoid out and remove the plunger and spring - put it back together and wire it back up as it was. This will allow the ECU to "see" the solenoid as Guy Suggested and it won't stop the engine from starting - the engine will still stop with the key. Although thinking about it the ECU doesn't need to see the Solenoid, I had my wire taped up for a couple of days and a direct connection from the battery and the Check Engine Light didn't come on. I've been running mine without the plunger and spring in for a good few weeks now - although I am going to put it back in soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen337 Posted November 8, 2007 Share Posted November 8, 2007 Going to reply on the original thread, not wanting to hijack Derick's thread..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ally V8 Posted November 8, 2007 Share Posted November 8, 2007 Fitting a replacement ECU will require a security relearn on Testbook,a few mins work or it wont go.What is the issue with the car - these ECU's are VERY reliable,most running faults are down to throttle pots,needle lift sensors,slack timing belts or shot injector pumps.Has it logged any faults ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sotal Posted November 8, 2007 Share Posted November 8, 2007 Fitting a replacement ECU will require a security relearn on Testbook,a few mins work or it wont go.What is the issue with the car - these ECU's are VERY reliable,most running faults are down to throttle pots,needle lift sensors,slack timing belts or shot injector pumps.Has it logged any faults ? Dereks faults were TPS out of range, but he tried a 2nd hand tps which was worse, then a brand new one which was better but not fixed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Martin Posted November 9, 2007 Author Share Posted November 9, 2007 Fitting a replacement ECU will require a security relearn on Testbook,a few mins work or it wont go.What is the issue with the car - these ECU's are VERY reliable,most running faults are down to throttle pots,needle lift sensors,slack timing belts or shot injector pumps.Has it logged any faults ? Please see my original post for details of the problem. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=19156 Any help gratefully received. Derek. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Martin Posted November 9, 2007 Author Share Posted November 9, 2007 Where are you getting the replacement ECU from?I think I have a problem with mine and Im looking for a replacement. The only place I have found on the Internet (so far) that will do a test / replacement service is http://www.bsecorp.com/products.php I still have this http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=17762 problem. Because I suspect the ECU Im slow at putting my hand in my pocket cautious. Ta Stephen Stephen, I have got mine from ebay, I had to wait a long time for one to show up. Regards Derek. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Martin Posted November 9, 2007 Author Share Posted November 9, 2007 Stephen, I have got mine from ebay, I had to wait a long time for one to show up.Regards Derek. Stephen, I also found the company below on the web http://www.injectioncorrection.co.uk/index.php?id=info From memory I think it they offered a try a replacement one and return it if it does not cure the problem, check out their web site to confirm its the correct company. Regards Derek. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ally V8 Posted November 9, 2007 Share Posted November 9, 2007 Have you put a multimeter across the pink and white wires coming off the TPS on a resistance scale ? Slowly operate the pedal up and down and watch the resistance changing - any glitches and you have your fault.Remember that lots of components that are supplied at a cheaper than OE cost are of very poor quality,(Esp air flow meters) - in some cases subbing over a known good S/H one will give a better result.The fact that the replacement changed the issue means there was a difference between it and the original.I still think you are wasting time with the ECU,it will always drop the engine back to idle if driver demand signals are corrupted - same on a TD5.Difference is on a TD5 is that they need rebooting before they will rev up again. If you do need an ECU I have at least one in stock,possibly more - just remember they need a relearn before they will allow the engine to start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sotal Posted November 9, 2007 Share Posted November 9, 2007 Mine was playing up again earlier - I was driving along a straight road, with lots of 30 cameras (bentilee) and I had my foot still, on the peddle, the CEL light came on and there was a noticeable amount of noise reduction and a bit of power loss, I tried my best to keep my foot still, and it carried on along the road at just under 30mph with the CEL light on - the revs dropped to approx 1100rpm where they stayed. I kept it like this for a good few hundred yards, before slightly moving me foot and it sped it up and went back to normal, I then let me foot off and noticed that the revs drop to about 850rpm so it isn't dropping right down to idle. Is this still the same problem? Is it just a known safe value? Ally - do you know what the resistances should be for the TPS? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Martin Posted November 9, 2007 Author Share Posted November 9, 2007 Have you put a multimeter across the pink and white wires coming off the TPS on a resistance scale ? Slowly operate the pedal up and down and watch the resistance changing - any glitches and you have your fault.Remember that lots of components that are supplied at a cheaper than OE cost are of very poor quality,(Esp air flow meters) - in some cases subbing over a known good S/H one will give a better result.The fact that the replacement changed the issue means there was a difference between it and the original.I still think you are wasting time with the ECU,it will always drop the engine back to idle if driver demand signals are corrupted - same on a TD5.Difference is on a TD5 is that they need rebooting before they will rev up again.If you do need an ECU I have at least one in stock,possibly more - just remember they need a relearn before they will allow the engine to start. When I originally had the problem I tried my multimeter on my original TPS but I seem to remember it responded over such a small range it was impossible for me to meter it and find any dead spot. The New TPS I bought is a genuine Bosch part, exactly the same as the original. Having replaced the TPS, I took the car to a local L/R specialist and got the error codes read, it was TPS out or range or defective, the guy said it was either a wiring fault or maybe the ECU, I have metered the wiring and can't find a problem, so I'm left with trying the ECU, I don't have any confidence that that will fix it either, but I looked for ages and when I found one I thought I'd better get it. Do you keep many spares?, I may be interested in other bits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Martin Posted November 9, 2007 Author Share Posted November 9, 2007 Mine was playing up again earlier - I was driving along a straight road, with lots of 30 cameras (bentilee) and I had my foot still, on the peddle, the CEL light came on and there was a noticeable amount of noise reduction and a bit of power loss, I tried my best to keep my foot still, and it carried on along the road at just under 30mph with the CEL light on - the revs dropped to approx 1100rpm where they stayed. I kept it like this for a good few hundred yards, before slightly moving me foot and it sped it up and went back to normal, I then let me foot off and noticed that the revs drop to about 850rpm so it isn't dropping right down to idle.Is this still the same problem? Is it just a known safe value? Ally - do you know what the resistances should be for the TPS? I never managed to get readings from my TPS on my multimeter, maybe someone else will know? I think there are two circuits in the TPS according to the Haynes wiring diagram, I think one supplies the default setting if the TPS has a fault. I still think mine drops to idle, but I generally adjust the pedal until I get the engine to pick up again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ally V8 Posted November 9, 2007 Share Posted November 9, 2007 I have never needed to take resistance max/min readings from a TPS on a 300, I use Testbook for diagnosis.The last one I did that had a similar issue I used my oscilliscope on the output to the ecu from the TPS,this showed a dead spot.I advised the garage I was doing it for to change it and I didnt hear any more from them.My work "van" is a 300 EDC Disco - I'll get some resistance values off it tomorrow when I get to work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Martin Posted November 10, 2007 Author Share Posted November 10, 2007 I have never needed to take resistance max/min readings from a TPS on a 300, I use Testbook for diagnosis.The last one I did that had a similar issue I used my oscilliscope on the output to the ecu from the TPS,this showed a dead spot.I advised the garage I was doing it for to change it and I didnt hear any more from them.My work "van" is a 300 EDC Disco - I'll get some resistance values off it tomorrow when I get to work. Don't suppose you are anywhere near Stoke-On-Trent are you?. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Martin Posted November 10, 2007 Author Share Posted November 10, 2007 For an update see my original post http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=19156 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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