Gareth Dickens Posted December 7, 2007 Share Posted December 7, 2007 I have now finally decided not to go with SOA, but extend my front leaf hangers and change my shocks. After all life is short and I still wish to drive this thing before our planet runs out of fossil fuel. Any suggestions or warnings I should be aware of? I have military shackles fitted front and rear. What shocks to use? I was thinking of Pro - Comps, but what model? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBorges Posted December 8, 2007 Share Posted December 8, 2007 In my opinion: ES3000 for soft offroad ES9000 for hard offroad And a nice Return to Centre Steering Damper if you have oversize tyres... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gareth Dickens Posted December 9, 2007 Author Share Posted December 9, 2007 In my opinion:ES3000 for soft offroad ES9000 for hard offroad And a nice Return to Centre Steering Damper if you have oversize tyres... I have powersteering fitted so that's okay. I was defintely leaning towards the es9000's but do they come in different lenghts? I have military shackles and plan to match them with 2" longer hangers. So do I fit procomps made for landies or cruisers or what? If there are different lenghts where can I get there specs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sotal Posted December 10, 2007 Share Posted December 10, 2007 I've got extended hangers, and I also have a set of military shackles in the garage but I was told not to fit them as the prop angles would shift too much or something along those lines. Keep me posted with how you get on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted December 10, 2007 Share Posted December 10, 2007 As has been noted, the prop angles will increase on the front if you fit the longer shackles and/or spring hangers - how much depends on what combination of spring hanger and shackle lenght you use. However, you can correct this fairly easily on leafers with a set of wedges that sit under the spring seats. These then bring the diff nose angle for the prop back to where it should be. No idea where to get them tho... Procomps come in all sorts of lengths. You need to talk in terms of extended and compressed lengths rather than vehicle fitment. You also need to take into account the fitment - pin - pin, pin - eye, etc. Cheers Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gareth Dickens Posted December 10, 2007 Author Share Posted December 10, 2007 I am only doing a 2" extension on the hanger to negate the 2" longer military shackles. I'm planning to use 8mm steel plate and box it for strength. Should probably get the landy standing on it's wheels with the engine fitted before measuring the distance for the shocks. I want to fit a second set of bump stops on top of the diff to limit the up travel on the leafs. They will be in line with the ones on the chassis so they hit each other. Rubber on rubber to hopefully soften bottoming out. What do you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sotal Posted December 10, 2007 Share Posted December 10, 2007 I am only doing a 2" extension on the hanger to negate the 2" longer military shackles. What do you mean by that?? As far as I know you can fit the military shackles without fitting extended hangers, but by doing both you double the height gain, that's if I've got it right?? As I say I've got the extended hangers and I've got no problems there, I do a fair bit of off roading and everything has been fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gareth Dickens Posted December 10, 2007 Author Share Posted December 10, 2007 What do you mean by that??As far as I know you can fit the military shackles without fitting extended hangers, but by doing both you double the height gain, that's if I've got it right?? As I say I've got the extended hangers and I've got no problems there, I do a fair bit of off roading and everything has been fine I do want the extra height for more reasons than one. I want extra clearance between the engine sump and diff. I want some more ground clearance on the belly. I have gone wider on the tyres (3" outward on the rim) so C of G shouldn't be affected to badly. I want to go 2" only to return my diff angle to standard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sotal Posted December 10, 2007 Share Posted December 10, 2007 so are you extending them horizontally rather than vertically? Sorry if I'm sounding dumb - just not sure what you're trying to achieve, as I can tell you will double up and get a 4" lift and the prop angle will be well out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gareth Dickens Posted December 10, 2007 Author Share Posted December 10, 2007 so are you extending them horizontally rather than vertically?Sorry if I'm sounding dumb - just not sure what you're trying to achieve, as I can tell you will double up and get a 4" lift and the prop angle will be well out. I am removing the old hangers and putting in hangers (front attach point for leaf spring) that are 2" higher (vertically). At a earlier stage I fit military shackles (rear attach point for leaf spring) and they are 2" longer than standard. They did tilt my front diff (aft) allthough not to an extent that would cause any problems. You could feel the landy nose rising and falling though when standing still and turning . (powersteering rulz) Now I want some more lift and do not want to get the front trolley wheel effect and touch the steering and end up in a ditch next to the road. So I am only lifting the hangers 2" which will return my spring attitude to normal (as with standard shackles) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Astro_Al Posted December 10, 2007 Share Posted December 10, 2007 Sotal, I think I can help clarify. He doesn't mean horizontally. Each spring is obviously mounted at both ends. One end has 'shackles' between the spring eye and the chassis. He is putting longer military shackles here, to give lift at that end. The other end is pivoted in a hard mount which forms part of the chassis (the 'spring hanger' referred to). He is going to remake these chassis mounts so that the spring eye is held 2" further down from the chassis at the spring's non-shackle end. By doing this at both ends he will maintain his caster angle, and add lift. Obviously if he only lift one end of the spring (shackles only) and retains the original spring mount on the chassis, he will alter the 'normal' angle of the spring, and hence the axle (caster, diff nose angle etc). By doing both ends, these are normalised again. Also, lifting only one end of the spring means that the mid point - where the axle is mounted - only sees half the lift. So a 2" shackle extention gives 1" at the axle ('real' lift). Doing both ends gives the full lift at the mid-point. His talk of 'negation' is about, presumably, the angles which have been altered by a shackle-only lift. Gareth - sounds like an improvement on the SOA, IMHO. Watch for gearbox crossmember / propshaft clearance - you'll probably need to 'scallop' the x-mem. May need blingy-jointed props too. Depends how much you lift droop I guess. Test it and see. Hope that helps, Al. P.S. - Sorry - you posted the answer while I was typing!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gareth Dickens Posted December 10, 2007 Author Share Posted December 10, 2007 Sotal, I think I can help clarify.He doesn't mean horizontally. Each spring is obviously mounted at both ends. One end has 'shackles' between the spring eye and the chassis. He is putting longer military shackles here, to give lift at that end. The other end is pivoted in a hard mount which forms part of the chassis (the 'spring hanger' referred to). He is going to remake these chassis mounts so that the spring eye is held 2" further down from the chassis at the spring's non-shackle end. By doing this at both ends he will maintain his caster angle, and add lift. Obviously if he only lift one end of the spring (shackles only) and retains the original spring mount on the chassis, he will alter the 'normal' angle of the spring, and hence the axle (caster, diff nose angle etc). By doing both ends, these are normalised again. Also, lifting only one end of the spring means that the mid point - where the axle is mounted - only sees half the lift. So a 2" shackle extention gives 1" at the axle ('real' lift). Doing both ends gives the full lift at the mid-point. His talk of 'negation' is about, presumably, the angles which have been altered by a shackle-only lift. Gareth - sounds like an improvement on the SOA, IMHO. Watch for gearbox crossmember / propshaft clearance - you'll probably need to 'scallop' the x-mem. May need blingy-jointed props too. Depends how much you lift droop I guess. Test it and see. Hope that helps, Al. P.S. - Sorry - you posted the answer while I was typing!!! Exactly what you said racing typer man. I'm changing my xfer case too so front should clear the xmember . At the back I plan to cut out the bottom of the xmember and rebox it. Why do men have nipples - Just in case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sotal Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 I'm with you now, I think mine has extended hangers at the front and rear of each spring - although I'll check now - so I presumed that was what you were doing. I guess that does the same overall effect? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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