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Astro_Al

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About Astro_Al

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    Forum Rocket Scientist

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    Winchester, UK.
  1. Dan, can you get on with this please? I periodically come back to this forum, chiefly to see what has happened to this build. Nicest vehicle on here for a while, I think. Come on! zzzZZZ
  2. I think its all the same. I've certainly never noticed any difference. Throw it in one of those hand-pump garden sprayer thingies. - will do the chassis in about 2 mins. Al
  3. Fridge, I have a mahoosive pile of polywhatsit insulation boards here, sitting outside my workshop going begging. They are tatty and have previously been used to insulate a unit on an industrial estate. Yours for free if you agree to take the whole lot so I don't have to put them on ebay / think about it any more - ideal for a workshop I reckon, and cheap enough to double the thickness if you wanted (they are 50mm).. I also have an equally mahoosive pile of blue plasterboard, mostly 12mm, sold to me as seconds with some edge damage etc. A lot of them are in pretty good shape. Plasterboard is completely fireproof, so great for a burny / sparky workshop I think. Same deal - if you want them for free, you can have them as long as you take the lot (use the best ones then stick the rest on ebay?) Hold on, might have a pic... There is about a third of that stack of insulation again - some of which are halfs / fractions etc. I might be able to bin the really useless bits for you. Several trailer-loads for sure, but just south of Basing St Oke towards Winch... I can forklift onto a trailer. Let me know, cheers Al.
  4. No, they are a function of the voltage & current of the arc. Directly related to a host of things - wire dia, all machine settings etc etc. It's not so much a 'sweet spot' as crossing over a threshold, arc voltage-wise. Above which, given all other parameters fixed, you will always be in spray transfer mode. Instead of a series of short-circuits depositing droplets of wire into the weld pool (during 'normal' short-arc mig welding), you get effectively a spray of filler out of the nozzle - the wire doesn't need to get so close to the weld pool and doesn't short out in discrete 'events' - more like a spray can of liquid metal. You'll know if you stumble across it. Al.
  5. On your second point Lewis, sounds like you started welding in spray transfer mode instead of short arc mode, which is what most consider 'normal welding'. In spray transfer the sound will change to almost a whine - really smooth and very different to the bacon-sizzling mode. You'll get much less spatter, typically. Its a much nicer way to weld. Mode is dictated by, primarily, the voltage across the arc. If you had cranked up the settings before that weld, then that might explain the change. Smaller wire dia also encourages the shift up to spray transfer mode. Note that between short arc and spray you get globular / long arc mode which is horrible, spattery and generally to be avoided! Al.
  6. I echo everything that has been said. As per my previous comment, why not just swap the motor to a single phase one? Cheap and easy. Al.
  7. Ah, well, he said he wanted bigger... Anyway, I guess he could do the same with whatever lathe he ends up with. Al
  8. Nige, I have (now) a colchester triumph. I think its a good size - get 2" bar down the spindle etc. Quite a handy machine. Anyway, the guy I bought it off had put a single phase motor in, I was given the 3 phase motor that he removed when I bought it, and despite having 3 phase in the workshop I haven't needed to swap it back. I'd seriously consider just getting a big machine and running it with whatever your maximum size single phase motor is. Easy peasy. Al.
  9. Hi Bushwacker, I thank you for your input, in fact, as this isn't for me and my father doesn't care too much as long as it pulls some bits of wood up a slope, I'm going to leave the research there and just go buy it. Too many fish to fry to bother spending hours reading / researching / sorting for this. Thanks anyway, I expect your input will be useful for others, but I'm taking the easy route on this one! I'm sure just about any reasonable winch will be more than adequate for his needs. Diminishing returns and all that... Ta, Al.
  10. Ta guys, I'm off to see him at Newbury Showground on the 7th April. His advice... Al
  11. Hi guys, just a really simple question for those who are in the loop with modern winches. My father is looking for something to go on the front of his Defender to pull logs / branches up a steep slope. Can anyone suggest a reasonable quality / cost setup. Its only on his own land, and won't be needed much. I guess a mounting / bumper will be needed too (to save me making one). Presumably electric is the way to go for this - at what point do we need to look at split charging / dual batts? Do people just run a larger single battery for light / occasional use? These won't be fat tree trunks - if it can't be corralled into position by a nearly 70-year-old, then he won't be moving it, so nothing huge needed. Any other tips on technique / equipment to do this easily? Wheel chocks? Ta, Al.
  12. Hmm, well, fleet: after selling my hairdresser's hippo with head gasket issues, I bought a carp-box fiesta van which met a bollard during a friction-free braking event in the snow in Winchester and was never the same again... (I never knew car designers would be dumb enough to not put ANY metal between the flimsy plastic bumper and the radiator. Unbelievable.) Bought a 300 tdi disco for 500 with a dodgy head gasket (apparently). Had it flow tested at Owslebury Crankshaft Services in Winchester (recommended, they know their stuff for engine work), it was so leaky, they couldn't even register a value on their flow bench! Fixed the head, got bored of fixing all the other carp & sold it on (now with a member of Shires LRc I believe). Im getting a bit long in the tooth for hand me downs, but me lovely Pop bought himself a new defender at that point, and he passed his old one on to me. Sadly though, 'twas a basket case. Chassis, bulkhead, brakes, wheel bearings, engine etc all fubar. Total money pit, was getting 19 mpg on diesel and simply couldn't afford to go anywhere in it, so I sold it on for a LWB vitara which I have chopped the back off and I'm currently fitting an LPG system to. Made it into a simple flat tray back for transporting metalwork (the smaller stuff) and general 40 or 50 mpg equivalent running around. Nice. Just started sorting the Mog for business use, transporting larger jobs etc, plus hiab for fitting stuff on site. Was gonna fit he nv4500 and atlas fom my vapour project days, but it's not necessary, so now looking to offload them. I'll stick a 4.0 straight six and nv3500 from a cherokee in it and call it good. Still got the workshop near Micheldever, still huge, but doing my best to fill it with interesting tools. Latest addition is a 5.5 tonne powerhammer which I have spent 3 years looking for. Drop by on your way past sometime. Might be moving abroad for 2 or 3 years soon, might get the flying spanners guys to crack on with the Mog in my absence if I do, are they still firing on all cylinders? I don't get on here much, but it seems the haydays have passed? Hope all good, sos for looong post! Al
  13. Ah, thanks Fridge - so all the non-indicators are fine to just plug in? Comme ca? - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LED-compatible-flasher-indicator-relay-works-mixed-LED-Bulb-combinations-/380423703096 Al.
  14. Hi guys, there have been some LED related threads on here, so I thought I might get an educated response. I have rebuild the back of a vitara (sorry) to be a kind of mini flatbed pickup. I got some LED light units to use instead of the awkwardly curved original light units, from here: http://www.trailertek.com/acatalog/led_lights.html The first thing at the top of the page is a load resistor. Can anyone tell me if I can just plug the light units (here: http://www.trailertek.com/acatalog/info_LT865.html & http://www.trailertek.com/acatalog/info_1_LT825.html ) into the original loom, or do I need the load resistor too? The light units make no mention of an additional resistor, but are full of potting compound, so I can't see what's in there. Cheers, Al.
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