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TD4 Turbo Problems


SteveH0773

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Hi Everyone,

My TD4 has started having a problem - When driving between ~2000 - 3500 RPM, the engine can seem weak, and hesitate, often leaving me on a motorway with a max speed of about 70 mph. It's like the turbo isn't working, or as I read on here somewhere, that maybe a hose is split - The strange thing is, it can be struggling for 5-6 miles, but then it will spring back into life and the car will pull as normal. It's almost like driving with a manual choke pulled out too far!! The engine is perfectly fine outside of the turbo range.

Does anyone know if this does sound like a turbo problem, or am I missing something?

Cheers,

Steve

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Check for any delaminating hoses.(feel them if there soft and squiggy there nickered)

if not then get it plugged in for a diagnostic check as there is a sensor on the Td4 which works on small air lines controlling the waste gate and if any water or dirt get in thin there turbo starts to play up.

(I've forgotten the name of it)

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Thanks Jules - I'll check that. Although now since I posted the first part, the problem has changed I think!!

Now the car just won't start - It turns over fine, just won't fire..... Could it be the fuel pump??

That's not uncommon but still check (the hoses the one on the back of the engine that was the one that consistently failed on the racer), My disco developed a problem which I thought was the fuel pump but it turned out to be a delaminated hose

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Injectors are a common cause of non start on td4's, but there are a few other things it can be as well. Cam sensor, high pressure fuel sensor, fuel pump can be at fault.

Back to you original fault, ive replaced quite a few turbo modulators due to the fault you describe. Dealer would(should) be able to diagnose very easily with T4.

Where abouts in the world are you?

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Thanks for the ideas - I live between Leeds & York, however as I was at work when it refused to start, it's now been towed to a garage in Harrogate (Not a main dealer) and they are going to look at it this morning. Hopefully it won't be expensive!!

As I've never had any work done by this garage, I don't know their prices, but just in case - does anyone have the details of a supplier that I can get a fuel pump from if I need too? This soon after Christmas I don't like the sound of a £300 fuel pump!!

I'll keep you all up to date!

Cheers,

Steve

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Well I've picked the car up, and theycouldn't get it to break down - It just started every time! I have the fault code though, it's P1260 (Pre Fuel Pressure) if that means anything to anyone? Also, ssince I got it back, the stereo just displays "Eject" and won't turn to radio, or go off - Even when the ignition is off and the keys are out! The battery was flattened, but the stereo isn't the standard one, so surely it doesn't need a code??

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Well I've picked the car up, and theycouldn't get it to break down - It just started every time! I have the fault code though, it's P1260 (Pre Fuel Pressure) if that means anything to anyone? Also, ssince I got it back, the stereo just displays "Eject" and won't turn to radio, or go off - Even when the ignition is off and the keys are out! The battery was flattened, but the stereo isn't the standard one, so surely it doesn't need a code??

I would unplug it and check it.....

There is a tank lift pump and a high pressure pump in the engine bay as well.

If it's not got fuel pressure before starting I could only assume that one of the two pumps is not pressuring up the fuel system as it should.

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Depending on its age there could be one or two electric low pressue pumps before reaching the high pressure pump on the engine.

Early td4s have 2, one in the osr (right hand rear) wheelarch and one below the fuse box in the engine bay on the lh inner arch. The later ones just have the one in the osr arch.

Would be worth turning the ignition on and listening to see if you hear the pump running, it will go off after a few seconds of turning the ignition on. They can cause an intermitant non start when they pack up because the high pressure pump will usually manage to suck the fuel through enough for it to start, sometimes causing misfires and/or poor performance as well.

Another thing you can check quite easily is the high pressure fuel rail pressure sensor wiring/plug, which could cause that fault code. LR have just released a new overlay wiring loom from this sensor straight to the ecu due to corosion of the pins in the connector causing high resistance and giving incorrect readings to the ecu. The sensor is on the lh of the engine, below the inlet manifold, just down and back a bit from the egr valve. The sensor is screwed into the end of the fuel rail and has a black connector with 3 wires going into, the pins in this connector can corode.

Hope this helps if it happens again, if you were closer i may of been able to offer a hand.

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Thanks for your help Marc! I'll have a look at those points this weekend - I've done about 50 miles since picking the car up, it's stuttered and lost power a couple of times for about 5 miles a time, but started perfectly. I found the cause to the stereo problems though..... Something to do with the wires hanging off it and flapping around behind the dash! They must have knocked it or disconnected it at the workshop.

I'll have a look over it this weekend and see what I can do with the fuel pumps.

Cheers,

Steve

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