Fatboy Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 Morning all! My plans are possibly on the slight change again. I was going to take the good V8 out of my 90, pop it in my Series 2a then rebuild a 4.6 with THL's etc to put in the 90. However, that leaves me with too many non-moving vehicles for a while... So, I'm now thinking about fitting an Isuzu 2.8 Turbo to the 2a as it seems to be a compact unit at about 24" wide and 24" from the bellhousing to the front, nice high sump over the axle etc. and it leaves me time to do the 4.6 properly ! I'd hope to use the Series 2a gearbox but still need to find a conversion plate, any clues?. (Conversion & Precision?) I've done a few searches on here but could not actually find any opinions or pro's and con's for the Isuzu engine - Would appreciate some before I go any further? Finally, just incase there were rumblings of "its a vapour build", here is the current state: After it was stripped - Bulkhead fairly rotten but not beyond repair. Front panel welded and fitted so I could remember what the thing is supposed to look like!! Cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollythelw Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 only ok without an intercooler but cool with one (and very easy to convert to a 'cooler), suit landy manual box ratios very well, also used in the Vauxhal Frontera, canal boats, generator sets.. The 3.1 is Not as good as the 2.8, front or rear rad doesnt faze them at all. petal got a disgusting 9ltrs per 100km regardless of pedal or terrain, pig was worse but not bad, combat dolly was better, glow plugs only need wiring for minus lots, you can tune them for pennies and they last (seamingly) forever. CPE do conversion sets for a variety of boxes or you could just use the standard Isuzu one? (if not £free then almost free), the motor runs cold, starter motors are £90 from milners (never had to buy one), alternators can be rebuilt (reg diode pack £14, only ever had to do 1), any motor you look at should take bugger all cranking, clear its throat almost instantly and be a good "crackler" soundwise (not muffled/wooly sounding), starship mileage is not a prob, cam belt is easy to change. I love em Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Astro_Al Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 Useful rev range of these anyone? Ratios of the standard gearbox & T case? Al. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollythelw Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 0-4.5k, peak torque from about 2 and carrying on flat rate from there, I used to be able to spin 40's in the first 2 gears without a prob, but I had fiddled a wee bit with lump. pass on the second - search google ya lazy get! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatboy Posted April 11, 2008 Author Share Posted April 11, 2008 Cheers Jez! Sounds like a sensible and fun option for this wagon then. I've been trying to make significant progress before starting a thread in the members vehicles areas because everybody else seems to make so much daily progress compared with me Its all fun though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollythelw Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 aah its not a competition - just build if you can, whatever you can, whenever you can, looking at what you've done so far fella you're doing a cracking job the intercooler side is easy, remove all the emmissions carp, pull the mid section from the intake manifold and remove the butterfly (weld the holes or tap them and wind a bolt in), pull the hose from the turbo outlet to the inlet manifold, turn the last section of the manifold 180 degrees and bolt it back on - you can then pipe from the turbo outlet into the cooler and from the cooler into the inlet manifold, pull the antitamper cover off the pump and wind her up, pull the enrichment diaphragm and adjust and bingo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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