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Wading plugs on the Tdi's


Thys

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Why? well I didn't used to remove mine until -

The cam belt cover leaked through the seal on the crank, filled slowly with muddy water and eventually caused the cam belt idle pulley to sieze. End result melted snapped cam belt, bent push rods, and scrapped pulleys.

The crank rear oil seal started leaking and filled the bell housing up with oil until the clutch started slipping. Luckily it didn't get bad enough before I noticed to require clutch replacement, but I reckon it was close.

Based on the above remove them either every time you're not off-roading, or periodically to check for water and oil ingress.

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From the owner's manual, page 130:

mwsnap251rc6.jpg

More than that, any cavity on a vehicle has to have some sort of breather to allow air/liquid expansion/contraction without affecting the integrity of seals/whatever components might connect to that cavity.

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Well you did ask, Thys !

I tend to do something in between, I remove the plugs every so often to see what comes out and then put them back in if I know I am going somewhere wet. I change the front crank seal every time the cambelt is done, every 60k kms, and keep my fingers crossed about the rear crank seal.

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Well you did ask, Thys !

I tend to do something in between, I remove the plugs every so often to see what comes out and then put them back in if I know I am going somewhere wet. I change the front crank seal every time the cambelt is done, every 60k kms, and keep my fingers crossed about the rear crank seal.

Yes Jim,

I had to, but the beauty of asking on this forum, are the answers. One learns more on the Forum, than any publication, as the majority of info are based on actual experience.

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Go to a hydraulics supplier and get two 1/4 bsp taps with 90 deg action handle screw into holes and a quick flick and its sealed ready for action, front one needs an extension to clear the sump 1/4 bsp male to female about 2 " long from memory.

Lynall

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