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Drag link thread/hydro assist help/questions


white90

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So in light of the above

anyone have any suggestions for making an Idler for the existing pump pulley?

So I can fit the ZF where the aircon would go.

Does the back side of the belt (the flat side) run against the PAS pump then Tony, I assume it must if the Pump runs backwards.

Might be worth asking Saley, Im pretty sure he has a ZF pump running in the conventional direction mounted up high.

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Any tips re the ZF Steve?

Some people have just removed the pressure relief valve from the pumps and run them sealed with a small quantity of oil for lubrication. Think if I was doing it I would make some sort of bracket to take an idler in place of the PAS pump. If its a plain/flat pulley it would be simple to make with a couple of sealed roller bearings. If its a ribbed pulley then many modern cars run idlers with a bearing built into them which would be ideal to mount there. Making the bracket and keeping it square to ensure good belt life would be a bit tricky but easy enough with some care. Not sure what access to machinery (I.E. Mill and lathe) you have, that might be your biggest problem.

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Steve, if you've got play in rose joints they've really had it - in fact if you can move the centre by hand they're past it!

Yea I know, which is when I will change it. But as I said it doesn't even have the slightest trace of play yet.

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Some of the bits arrived today

just awaiting TRE's

Looks promising. I use the Bearmach HD rods and they machine/ thread really nicely. I did mount it in the lath to drill and start the tap so I could be sure it was square.

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One extra thing I should add about the bolts Tony, I bought bolts with the correct length plain part of the shank so the rose joint, drop arm, spacers and ram all sat nicely on a 3/4" plain shaft then made the final washer just the right thickness to allow the nut to tighten down without running out of thread. Then drilled the thread above the nut to take a small split pin for safety and cut it to length.

Also I kept the spacers between the rose joint, drop arm and ram only .125" thick to keep the bolt as short as possible so it was a much more rigid setup and gave more clearance under the drop arm end of the drag link. The misalignment spacers ive seen have all been quite thick so you may want to modify them a bit.

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