SteveBo Posted May 25, 2008 Share Posted May 25, 2008 Laid out the auxilliary tank (RH rear wheel arch) and kit plus all the tools I could think of. Stripped off wing strut, mud flap bracket, removed fuel filler hose (wierd Land Rover hose clips need tiny screwdriver) and set about drilling a hole in the main tank for the balance connector using a step hole bit. Dropped the back of the tank connector in on a piece of wire and pulled it through to bolt in place using polyurethane glue as instructed. Nerve racking stuff drilling holes in a perfectly good fuel tank (plastic and about 8-10mm thick). Shifted the main tank breather into position ready to lift tank in place to size up new hose lengths and work out bolt holes. Then it all starts to go wrong... First off the tank is flaming heavy and an odd shape. Then the main tank strap end gets in the way so that gets cut off. A tower of pisa of timber scraps helps get the tank somewhere near position but I quickly realise the filler neck need cutting down. After several cuts I am within 15mm of the breather neck and I still can't get the tank into position. The instructions show the filler neck unbolted but mine (TD5 2005) is fixed in place with nothing but a hard plastic grommet. So, I've had to abandon work and leave my Landy jacked up and undriveable with no idea how to solve the problem. I think I'll have to tank the filler neck out, fit it to the tank then reinsert it in the hole in the bodywork while its fitted to the tank. Does anyone know how I can get the filler neck out of the bodywork without breaking anything? Off for a beer now... Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 25, 2008 Share Posted May 25, 2008 possibly ease the grommet lip from the body panel & pull the filler neck out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest diesel_jim Posted May 25, 2008 Share Posted May 25, 2008 A tower of pisa of timber scraps helps get the tank somewhere near position but I quickly realise the filler neck need cutting down.After several cuts I am within 15mm of the breather neck and I still can't get the tank into position. The instructions show the filler neck unbolted but mine (TD5 2005) is fixed in place with nothing but a hard plastic grommet. I've got the same tank as you i think (bought it off of Matt here on the forum). the filler neck is cut very short, only 20 or 30 mm long, mine is also going onto a Td5, but (during the vehicle build) i'm going to fit an earlier filler tube, mainly so that i can use the jerrycan filler extension tube (why did LR get rid of that? it's so handy!) i think you may well need to do the same. to fit the earlier metal filler, just pull/wiggle the Td5 filler out of the rubber mount, it's quite tight so needs a good old tug... , offer up the "early" one, you'll need to cut a slight notch at the 12:00 position (of the main big hole) so that the overflow/breather pipe can fit through. once you've done that and the filler assy is sat in position, just mark and drill the 4 holes for some small (M5/M6 size) bolts and washers to hold it in place. I can't decide whether to fit the tank in series with the main one, as you are doing, or to have it separate with its own filler and a transfer pump. can i pick your brains though.... how does the small balance pipe work? (any chance you can scan in the fitting instructions you've got and PM it to me? pretty please)) cheers D-J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveBo Posted May 25, 2008 Author Share Posted May 25, 2008 I'll try and get the filler neck out tomorrow. The breather is wakward so I may have to find an earlier type neck. I'll scan the instructions tomorrow as well. The balance pipe connects to a hole in the lower corner of the aux tank (which has a threaded hole) then runs to the lower corner of the main tank. This is where I had to drill a hole and fit the threaded panel plug. If you have a drain plug you may be able to connect the balance pipe there. I'm trying to work out what the cross member fittings are. They look like small sleeves. I guess they are some sort of bolt rivet i.e. push them into a blind hole, screw in a bolt and the end should spread behind the panel. Or am I about to make another mistake? Cheers, Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 25, 2008 Share Posted May 25, 2008 these might help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveBo Posted May 25, 2008 Author Share Posted May 25, 2008 Blimey, much better than the instructions I got (although I managed to work most of it out from the diagram which I'll post tomorrow. Thanks for these. I will need to get the filler neck out to see if it can be cut down enough to fit. I suspect hot water and washing up iquid will be needed. I'll also need to bodge the breather. Or, as suggested by Jim, try to find an old type replacement. In the meantime I've got arms like Popeye and squashed fingers from lifting the tank up and down. Tomorrow is another day... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 25, 2008 Share Posted May 25, 2008 they came from Mantec when I asked about the under wing tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest diesel_jim Posted May 26, 2008 Share Posted May 26, 2008 I will need to get the filler neck out to see if it can be cut down enough to fit. I suspect hot water and washing up iquid will be needed. I'll also need to bodge the breather. Or, as suggested by Jim, try to find an old type replacement. I pulled the Td5 type filler out of my rear tub a couple of weeks ago before i sent it off for shotblasting/spraying, with a tough wiggle it came out. I've got a spare (old type) filler if you want it. no cap, just the filler tube. PM me yer address if you want it, i'll fling it in the post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveBo Posted May 26, 2008 Author Share Posted May 26, 2008 Well 2 1/2 days later and the tank is finally installed. Squeaky behind time over! Here are the two diagrams that came with my kit: Once I can work out how to get them down to a reasonable size I'll post the photos. I poured in 10 litres to check the balance pipe connections for leaks and no dribbles so far. I used Loctite Thread Sealer so hopefully nothing will leak in future. The aux to main tank connector is a real pig to fit and has a significant kinik in it. Once I've robbed a bank I'll go and fill her up to see if the kink slows down the fill rate. I had to resort to a couple of bodges which I'll relate with the pictures. Time for beer... Cheers, Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest diesel_jim Posted May 26, 2008 Share Posted May 26, 2008 Cheers for the scans Steve and Ralph. Steve.... when you take piccies, any chance of a close up (or 2) of the union thing you fitted into the main tank for the balance pipe. is it just like a plumbing fitting (albiet smaller) that you'd use on a water tank in your attic (for example)... drill the hole, insert the fitting and screw on a large "flat" nut thing on the back with a rubber washer/seal? This kind of thing: i suppose, if the pipe was good enough quality, that domestic "push fit" pipe could be used for diesel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 26, 2008 Share Posted May 26, 2008 the seal might not be diesel proof though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest diesel_jim Posted May 26, 2008 Share Posted May 26, 2008 the seal might not be diesel proof though. Hmm... you could be right there Ralph. i might drop mantec a line tomorrow and see if they'll sell me a transfer pipe and the union separately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveBo Posted May 27, 2008 Author Share Posted May 27, 2008 Jim, The main tank union was made of stainless steel. It had a flange and both an internal and external thread. The flange was dropped into the tank on a piece of wire (I used fairly stiff earth wire which was fed through the main hole and out of the newly drilled hole). Then I pulled it through the hole and screwed on the supplied nut. The outer edge of the hole was smeared with poly glue and using a pair of molegrips to hold the flange I tightened the nut. A 90 degree connector (also SS) screwed into the inner thread of the flange (using thread seal) and a hose adapter screwed into this. A similar 90 degree connector and hose adaptor screwed into the hole in the aux tank lower corner and the pair connected (using hose clips) with the supplied fule hose (available from Halfords I think). The plastic tank is around 10mm thick and the poly glue will help the seal. If you have a steel tank I would get advice on a suitable fixing. Pictures to follow... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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