bigjohn Posted June 23, 2008 Share Posted June 23, 2008 Hi all, I may need to look at replacing the engine sump gasket on my 95 300tdi manual.can this be done in situ? ta,john. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cipx2 Posted June 23, 2008 Share Posted June 23, 2008 Sure. Just drop the front anti roll bar from the chassis brackets (if your vehicle has one) and jack up the chassis about 5 inches or more. The 300tdi sump has a silicone sealant type of gasket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stageonesimmo Posted June 23, 2008 Share Posted June 23, 2008 If you pull the ARB down you wont even need to jack it up - you just have to be carefull with the silicon as you put it back under as its a bit tight and the oil pick-up tends to 'wipe' a load of the bead of silicon on the sump. Make sure you get it all very clean and wait for the prescribed curing period before starting her up again to be sure it's sealed correctly...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 Best is to wait about 30 mins before putting the sump back up, and the longer you can wait before putting the oil in the better. Overnight is good. But if you are pushed for time, you will have to put the oil in and keep fingers crossed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiscoTDi Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 agree with the points above. I have just done mine and found that when refitting it helps to angle the pan at 90 degrees across the rear and then twist it round. It's difficult to describe and I ended up wiping most of the sealant all over the bottom engine parts as pointed out above! I ended up removing and re-applying the sealant several times until I realised it was best to do a dry run refit without putting the sealant on first. Do this a few times so you can be really confident of getting it on without touching anything, then put the sealant on. You shouldn't need to remove the anti-roll bar or anything, the knack is to bring the pan from the rear at an angle as I say. Watch the rear portion of the pan and pay particular attention to getting a nice even and consistent thickness all the way around - a bead of around 4mm is fine. Tighten up the pan steadily all the way around, just like doing a cylinder head. I left mine 24hrs to really cure before refilling with oil. She's now bone dry Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cipx2 Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 Guys, what do you use for sealant, porridge? In half an hour since I put the sealant on the sump I had the engine running After another hour I took the vehicle for a drive. That's why it's better to make as much room as you can even, if it doesn't look it's needed, it pays off when putting the sump back on and also when going from one bolt to the next. One trick is to use two 4-5 cm studs to drive the sump exactly in place, nice and easy (same as when attaching the transfer box to the main gearbox). But I guess there are a lot of ways to skin the cat ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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